'^ '•■»-''>• 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

IRVINE 

IN  MEMORY  OF 


HORACE  YEH 
1922-1991 


LJ  V 


WITH 

OUR  MISSIONARIES 

IN  CHINA 


9  ZC 


by 


MRS.  EMMA  ANDERSON 

AND  OTHER  MISSIONARIES  IN  THE  FIELD 


"Behold,  these  shall  come  from  far:  and,  lo,  these  from 

the  north  and  from  the  west ;  and  these  from  the  land  of 

Sinim."     Isaiah  49:  12. 


PACIFIC    PRESS     PUBLISHING     ASSOCIATION 

MOUNTAIN   VIEW,   CALIFORNIA 


Kansas  City,   Mo. 

Brookfield,  III. 


St.   Paul,    Minn.  Portland,   Ore. 

Criatobal,  Canal  Zone 


Copyright,   1920,   by 

Pacific  Press  Publishing   Assn. 

Mountain  View,  California 


Preface 

Since  the  days  when  those  early  apostolic  heralds 
of  the  glad  tidings  brought  home  to  the  churches  of 
Antioch  and  Jerusalem  the  reports  of  their  conquests 
among  the  heathen,  the  mission  story  has  never  failed 
to  enrich  the  spiritual  life  of  the  church,  and  to  inspire 
God's  children  to  respond  to  His  call  for  workers. 

Missionary  information  is  necessary  to  missionary 
inspiration.  Our  young  people,  to  whom  the  calls 
from  the  regions  beyond  come  with  special  force  to- 
day, need. to  lift  up  their  eyes  and  look  on  the  fields 
white  already  to  harvest.  They  need  to  study  the  great 
mission  fields  of  the  world,  and  to  know  how  God  is 
using  persons  like  themselves  to  bring  the  message  of 
His  grace  into  the  lives  of  those  who  sit  in  darkness. 

God  has  wonderfully  blessed  the  heralds  of  the  ad- 
vent message  in  China  since  they  entered  that  great 
countr\',  only  a  few  years  ago.  This  book  is  not  an 
attempt  to  tell  the  story  of  this  work.  It  is  merely  a 
series  of  typical  pen  sketches,  which  will  give  the 
reader  a  concrete  idea  of  our  missionaries  at  work. 
We  shall  see  their  surroundings,  understand  their 
methods,  appreciate  their  perils,  and  enter  into  their 
joy  of  seeing  souls  turned  "from  darkness  to  light,  and 
from  the  power  of  Satan  unto  God." 

This  book  was  prepared  especially  for  the  Senior 
Missionary  Volunteer  Reading  Course.  The  stories 
were  solicited  and  edited  by  Mrs.  I.  H.  Evans,  who 
was  office  secretary  of  the  Missionary  Volunteer  De- 
partment, and  who,  with  her  husband,  has  since  taken 
up  mission  work  in  the  Far  East.  We  owe  a  debt 
of  gratitude  to  Mrs.  Evans,  and  to  our  hard  pressed 

(7) 


8  PREFACE 

missionaries  who  have  given  us  these  stories  out  of 

real  life. 

I'am  sure  I  speak  the  sentiments  of  these  workers 
when  I  say  that  all  who  have  had  any  part  in  the  prepa- 
ration of  this  book  will  feel  abundantly  repaid  if  it 
shall  inspire  others  to  volunteer  for  service  in  this 
great  needy  field;  for  — 

"A  million  a  month  in  China 
Are  dying  without  God." 

M.  E.  Kern. 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Opening  of  the  China  Mission 13 

Bethel  Girls'  School 43 

Through  the  Paddy  Fields 64 

Entering  Szechuan  Province 138 

Early  Experiences  in  Old  Cathay 160 

The  Missionary  at  Work 190 

Revolutionary  Experiences 217 

Beginnings  at  Amoy 263 

Pressing  Toward  the  Border  of  Tibet     ....  273 

From  Many  Pens 

The  Test  of  Faith 285 

School  Around  a  Rice  Sieve 286 

The  "Flavor"  in  the  Word 288 

A  Girl  in  China 289 

Returning  from  a  Pilgrimage 292 

Beaten  by  a  Mob;  Now  an  Evangelist  .      .     .  292 

Varied  Experiences 294 

The  Children  of  China 300 

A  Village  Home  Near  Shanghai 307 

A  Heathen  Home  in  Szechuan 309 

Teaching  the  Gospel  Through  Characters      .  313 

The  Dragon  Festival 320 

Mokanshan 323 

Little  Five's  Image 330 

The  Homes  of  China 333 

(9) 


Illustrations 

A  Section  of  the  Great  Wall  of  China  -      Frontispiece 

Outline  Map  of  China   ------  12 

A  Glimpse  of  Hongkong  and  Its  Beautiful  Harbor  17 

A  Jinrikisha  and  Its  Motor     -----  19 

"Good    Morning" 24 

One  of  the  Widest  Streets  in  Kunshan     -          -          -  27 

Grinding  Millet  — A  Typical  Chinese  Mill    -          -  29 

Part  of  the  Waterfront,  Shanghai  -          -          -          -  33 

Soochow  as  Seen  from  the  Top  of  Pozi-tu  Pagoda  35 

The   Railway   Station,  Peking         -          -          -          -  41 

Images  in  the  Wa  Lum  Temple,  Canton    -          -  45 

Mute  Evidence  of  Suffering   -----  49 

"Standing  on  the  Dragon"         .          -          -          -  53 

Confucian  Temple  of  Learning      -         -          -          -  57 

A  Rescued  Chinese  Baby  Outcast  -  -  -  60 
Some    Hunan    Believers    and    one    of    the    Mission 

Cottages,  Changsha     -----  65 

Lung  Wha  Pagoda,  Ten  Miles  from  Shanghai   -          -  67 

American  Gunboat  and  Native  Craft,  Shanghai     -  71 

Nanking  Wall  and  Taiping  Gate     -          -          -          -  76 

The  Tomb  of  a  Wealthy  Official  -          -         -          -  79 

Baptism  at  Lohtsing,  Kiangche  Mission,  1918  -          -  83 

A  Barber  Plying  His  Trade  in  the  Street  -  -  85 
A    Bamboo   Forest   Where   Wild    Flowers    Grow   in 

Abundance          ....--  87 

A  Busy  Shoemaker       ------  92 

Former  Taoist  Priest,  Now  a  Colporteur      -          -  93 

A  Grave  Mound  Near  Shanghai    -          -          -          -  95 

Stone  Image  of  Turtle  at  the  Nanking  Tombs      -  97 

Plowing,  Chinese  Fashion      -----  103 

The  Temple  on  the  Hill,  Wuchang       -          -          -  107 

A  Man  of  Learning       ------  111 

A  Chinese  Farmer,  Content  with  Things  as  They  Are  115 

The  Bird  of  the  Coolie 118 

Rice  Culture 123 

A  Great  Saving  of  Precious  Energy       -          .          -  127 

Just  a  Common  Stone  Bridge     -          -          -          -  131 

Economy  Rather  than  Comfort      -          -          -          -  135 

Native  Craft  on  the  Han  River  at  Hankow  -          -  139 

Entrance  to  a  Temple  at  Kunshan        -        .        -        -  140 

Rapids  in  the  Upper  Yangtze     -          -          -          -  145 

Cargo  Boat  on  the  Han  River         -          .          -          -  148 

A  Group  of  Pilgrim  Guests  at  a  Buddhist  Temple  153 

A  "Model"  School  in  Foochow        -          -          -          -  157 

Wall  One  Thousand  Years  Old   -          -         -          -  159 

Nanking    Road     -------  161 

(10) 


ILLUSTRATIONS  11 

A  Row  of  Chinese  Clothing  Stores    -  -  -  166 

Among  the  Mat  Sheds,  Hankow    -  -  -  -  168 

Along  the  Grand  Canal      -----  171 

Pupils  of  a  Honan  Church  School   -  -  -  -  177 

A  Chinese  Sawmill    ------  181 

A  Funeral  Procession    ------  184 

A  Poor  Mother  of  China  Offering  Her  Babies  for  Sale  187 

The  Temple  of  Heaven,  Peking      -  -  -  -  193 

Pastor  Liu  and  a  Gospel  Village  Convert     -  -  197 

Two  Common  Methods  of  Travel  in  China       -  -  199 

Poverty  No  Bar  to  Happiness    -  -  -  -  203 

Coolies  in  Summer  Dress        -----  208 

A  Camel  Train  by  the  Tartar  Wall    -  -  -  215 

A  Merchant  and  His  Family  -----  219 

Tomb  of  the  First  Manchu  Emperor  of  China       -  223 

Rebel   Soldiers      -------  225 

A  Part  of  the  Hankow  Iron  and  Steel  Works    -  229 

One  of  the  Smaller  Gates  of  Peking    -  -  -  233 

Red  Cross  Hospital,  Shanghai    -  -         -  -  236 

A  Prominent  Chinese  Official  of  Soochow  About  to 

Board   the   Train         -----  239 

Pastor  Liu  Djen  Bang   ------  245 

Robber  Chief's  Name  Card        -  -  -  -  249 

Outline  Map  of  Tungkwan    -----  251 

Improving  the  Time  in  Simple  Style   -  -  -  256 

Brother  and   Sister   Djou   Wen   Hsuin    -  -  -  259 

Bridge  in  the  Grounds  of  the  Summer  Palace    -  265 

Yung  Kung  and  Yung  Wah   -----  269 

A  Moso  Shepherd     ------  274 

A  Native  Carpenter      ------  277 

An  Old  Buddhist  Priest 283 

Chan    Wan    Heung         ------  291 

The  Buttressed  Walls  of  Peking        -  -  -  293 

A   Chinese  Deed  to   Mission   Property    -  -  -  299 

All  Aboard 301 

Porch  of  the  Temple  Before  the  Tomb  of  Confucius   -  306 

An    Ancestral    Tablet 308 

Moving  Time  in  China   ------  310 

Chinese  Junks  on  the  River  Near  Shanghai   -  -  312 

Twenty-Eight  Chinese  Characters   -  -  -  -  317 

Dragons  Seeking  to  Swallow  the  Moon      -  -  321 

Canal    Street.    Nantziang       -----  322 

A  String  of  House  Boats    -----  324 

A   Primitive  Irrigating  Plant  .  .  -  -  326 

Stone  Bridge  Outside  the  West  Gate,  Kading      -  328 

Five    Chinese    Blessings         ...  -  -  334 


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OUTLINE  MAP  OF  CHINA,  SHOWING  ITS  VARIOUS  PROVINCES 


(12) 


Opening  of  tlie  China  Mission 

Mrs.  Emma  Anderson 

It  is  not  my  purpose  here  to  outline  a  history  of 
the  beginnings  of  Seventh-day  Adventist  missions  in 
China,  but  rather  to  narrate  personal  experiences  in 
connection  with  the  opening  of  this  mission  from  the 
time  of  our  leaving  home,  in  December,  1901,  till  we 
were  finally  settled  in  China  proper  in  April  of  1903. 

THE  BEGINNING  OF  A  NEW  ERA  OF  MISSIONS 
At  this  time,  the  world  had  suddenly  aroused  to  a 
new  interest  in  this  vast  and  populous  empire,  which 
through  ages  of  human  history  had  lived  largely  to 
itself  alone,  separate  from  and  quite  independent  of 
"the  other  half." 

Nearly  a  hundred  years  had  elapsed  since  Robert 
Morrison  arrived  in  China,  While  the  principal  Chris- 
tian denominations  had  formed  missionary  societies, 
and  planted  missions  in  various  parts,  still  the  work 
was  going  far  too  slowly  to  produce  any  definite  im- 
pression on  the  life  of  the  nation.  Many  times  more 
people  were  born  every  day  into  heathen  homes  than 
even  heard  of  the  gospel  in  that  same  time.  That  is 
to  say,  heathenism  was  increasing  many  times  faster 
than  the  gospel  was  spreading  in  China. 

This  was  the  condition  in  the  autumn  of  1899,  when 
news  of  a  strange  disturbance  in  a  secret  order  known 
as  Boxers  was  flashed  round  the  world.  At  first,  the 
movement  was  directed  toward  unseating  the  foreign 
Manchu  dynasty,  then  ruling  China;  but  so  skillfully 
did  those  in  authority  manage  affairs,  that  in  a  few 
months  it  had  developed  into  an  organized  movement 

(13) 


14  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

for  the  extermination  of  all  foreigners  on  their  sa- 
cred soil. 

The  aged  and  strong-minded  empress,  against  whom 
the  attempt  was  at  first  undoubtedly  aimed,  herself 
became  an  effective  instrument  in  directing  the  mur- 
derous blow  that  fell  with  such  deadly  weight  upon 
the  missionaries, —  men,  women,  and  children  alike. 
There  was  mourning  in  every  Christian  land,  where 
were  related  the  experiences  of  suffering  and  sacrifice 
endured  by  missionaries  who  had  "loved  not  their 
lives  unto  the  death."  There  was  rejoicing,  also,  in 
every  Christian  heart  that  heard  of  the  courage  and 
loyalty  of  native  Christians  who  chose  to  suffer  torture 
and  death  rather  than  renounce  allegiance  to  the  true 
God  and  deny  faith  in  His  dear  Son. 

Once  again  the  blood  of  martyrs  became  the  seed 
of  the  church.  Aroused  by  this  terrible  stroke  fallen 
on  their  far  too  slender  forces,  missionary  societies 
planned  to  increase  greatly  the  number  of  their  work- 
ers, and  to  provide  at  once  better  homes,  schools,  and 
other  facilities  for  work.  New  treaty  privileges  were 
secured  to  the  nations,  by  which  missionaries  were  free 
to  go  everywhere  preaching  the  Word.  Thus  the  year 
1900,  marked  by  persecution,  bloodshed,  and  martyr- 
dom, stands  out,  also,  as  the  dawn  of  a  new  era  of 
missions  in  China. 

LEAVING   HOME 

It  was  in  April  of  the  following  year  that  the  Gen- 
eral Conference  of  Seventh-day  Adventists  passed  a 
recommendation  advising  "that  Jacob  N.  Anderson 
and  wife,  of  Wisconsin,  be  invited  to  make  China  their 
field  of  labor." 


OPENING  OF  THE  CHINA  MISSION  15 

At  this  time,  my  sister,  Ida  E.  Thompson,  was  under 
appointment  to  Brazil,  at  the  expense  of  the  Wisconsin 
Conference.  The  appointment  was  afterward  trans- 
ferred to  China,  this  conference  still  continuing  her 
support. 

On  Christmas  eve  of  1901,  the  China  group  of  three 
adults  and  our  four-year-old  son  left  our  home  en  route 
by  way  of  Chicago  for  San  Francisco,  from  which  port 
we  were  booked  to  sail  by  the  steamship  "America 
Maru"  to  Hongkong. 

To  the  Mission  Board,  accustomed  to  dispatching 
workers  to  distant  lands,  this  initial  step  to  their  en- 
trance into  a  great  empire  of  400,000,000  souls  was 
but  a  turn  of  the  wheel  of  progress  by  which  the  third 
angel's  message  is  to  be  carried  to  every  nation,  kin- 
dred, tongue,  and  people.  But  to  this  detached  group 
of  prospective  missionaries,  it  meant  a  complete  revo- 
lution of  life's  plans,  such  as  scarcely  can  be  realized 
till  it  has  been  experienced. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  of  a  dull  December  day,  the 

overland  train  from  Chicago  stretched  its  length  along 

the  shore  of  San  Francisco  Bay.    The  dark  gray  of  the 

sky  overhead  was  reflected  by  the  deeper  gray  of  the 

waves    rolling    sullenly    below.      A   heavy    fog    hung 

over  the  shore,  rising  like  a  vast,  uncertain  shadow 

before  us.    An  awful  sense  of  isolation  and  loneliness 

came  over  us,  with  the  thought  that  from  that  day  till 

seas  shall  be  no  more,  thousands  of  miles  of  ocean 

depths  like  these  would  separate  us  from  home  and 

friends.     Presently,  however,  our  engine  thrust  itself 

into  the  shadow.    The  fog  seemed  lifting,  and  we  were 

u.shered  into  the  life  and  stir  of  a  busy  city.    Surely, 

we  were  not  alone;  with  us  was  the  promise,  "Lo,  I  am 


16  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

with  you  alway,"  and  back  of  us  was  God's  remnant 
church,  pledged  to  sacrifice  and  to  prayer  till  "this 
gospel  of  the  kingdom  shall  be  preached  in  all  the 
world  for  a  witness  unto  all  nations;  and  then  shall 
the  end  come." 

ARRIVING  IN   HONGKONG 

February  2,  1902,  the  "America  Maru"  dropped 
anchor  in  Hongkong  harbor,  not  long  before  sunset 
over  the  hills  of  Tang.  The  ocean  liner  had  scarcely 
swung  taut  on  her  cables  when  she  was  surrounded 
by  a  swarm  of  sailboats,  house  boats,  sampans,  and 
junks,  seemingly  come  up  out  of  the  sea.  Staterooms, 
saloon,  and  deck  were  well-nigh  cleared  of  passengers 
when  we  finally  lowered  ourselves  and  our  hand  lug- 
gage into  a  boat,  and  were  rowed  ashore, —  not  into 
China,  but  to  Hongkong,  a  small  island  belonging  to 
Great  Britain,  lying  just  off  the  southeast  coast  of 
China. 

No  one  met  us  at  the  jetty,  either;  and  here,  too, 
passengers  and  luggage  had  been  cleared  away,  and 
things  were  growing  quiet  for  the  coming  night,  when 
half  a  dozen  coolies  drawing  jinrikishas  came  rattling 
up.  My  husband  drew  out  from  an  inside  pocket  the 
slip  of  cardboard  he  had  cherished  jealously  the  jour- 
ney through,  and  read,  "A.  La  Rue,  3,  Arsenal  St." 
The  coolies  shook  their  heads.  The  address  was  read 
again,  slowly  and  distinctly. 

"La  Loo?"  "La  Loo?"  the  coolies  queried  blankly. 
Then  the  name  of  the  street  was  repeated  again  and 
again. 

"Ah!  Hi!"  came  in  response  from  a  new  arrival. 
Dashing  into  the  crowd,  he  lowered  his  vehicle,  loaded 


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(17) 


18  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

in  the  small  passenger,  and  began  stowing  hand  bag- 
gage about  the  child. 

"Hi!    Kwan  Chong  Kai!"  the  coolie  asserted. 

"Ktvan  Chong  Kai!"  echoed  a  dozen  voices,  and  as 
many  coolies  made  a  dash  for  a  passenger  or  a  piece 
of  luggage. 

Mr.  Anderson  was  not  so  sure.  To  our  ears,  there 
was  not  the  least  resemblance  in  these  words  to  the 
address  we  were  looking  for.  So  we  managed  to  keep 
to  our  feet,  and  resolutely  held  on  to  our  baggage. 

Just  then  a  British  seaman  came  up.  Yes,  the 
coolies  were  right.  He  knew  the  place,  and  would 
himself  take  the  lead  to  show  the  way.  "All  the  chaps 
know  Daddy  La  Rue,"  he  explained.  In  about  twenty 
minutes,  our  train  of  five  one-man-power  vehicles 
halted  before  a  row  of  three-story  buildings. 

"Right  away  up  these  stairs,  first  floor,'  door  at  your 
left,"  directed  our  guide.  The  glimmer  of  a  small  wall 
lamp  revealed  the  location  of  the  door,  a  stranger  to 
lock  and  key.  It  yielded  to  light  pressure,  and  we 
found  ourselves  inside  a  large,  meagerly  furnished 
room.  Opposite  the  door,  a  low  fire  smoldered  in 
the  red  brick  fireplace.  The  light  of  an  oil  lamp  on 
the  table  left  deep  shadows  in  the  far  corners,  and  the 
apparent  size  of  the  room  was  further  increased  by 
the  blue-tinted,  bare  walls.  Plenty  of  chairs  were  set 
about  in  convenient  places,  and  several  stood  around 
the  table,  where  books,  papers,  and  leaflets  were  laid 
out  invitingly.  Straight-backed  chairs  and  armchairs 
they  were,  all  of  them.  There  was  not  a  rocking-chair 
in  sight. 


'  In  the  East,  stories  are  designated  as  ground  floor,  first  floor,  second 
floor,  etc. 


A    JINKIKISHA    ANl;    ITS    MOTOR 


(l'.>) 


20  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

However,  closer  observation  led  to  the  conjecture 
that  guests  might  be  expected;  for  toward  the  other 
end  of  the  flat,  a  small  inclosure  had  been  set  up.  The 
low  walls,  constructed  of  Japanese  screens,  were  just 
taller  than  a  woman's  head.  Not  altogether  new,  but 
still  rich  in  design  and  beautiful  in  color,  were  these 
walls  that  shut  in  the  little  bedroom.  Inside  were  two 
small  beds,  covered  head  and  foot  with  new  white 
counterpanes.  A  bit  of  carpet  lay  between.  Two 
chairs,  and  a  washstand  with  utensils,  completed  the 
preparations. 

Beyond  the  bedroom,  at  the  extreme  rear  of  the 
flat,  was  a  tiny  dining  section,  with  barely  room  to 
admit  of  guests  passing  one  at  a  time  to  seats  around 
the  small  table.  Beyond  the  main  building,  across  an 
open  court,  was  the  cookhouse. 

"Where  does  the  smoke  go?"  we  inquired  later,  on 
being  initiated  into  the  use  of  the  queer  little  native 
stoves  arranged  on  a  tile  bench  like  so  many  crocks  in 
a  row. 

"Oh,  never  mind  the  smoke!"  our  host  replied  jovi- 
ally. "It  goes  up  this  big  flue  when  the  wind  is  right, 
or  any  place  it  wants  to  when  the  wind  is  wrong.  You 
will  get  used  to  that." 

There  was  ample  time  for  these  observations,  di- 
rected by  our  seaman  guide,  as  we  waited  the  home- 
coming of  our  host.  In  the  meantime,  other  callers 
came  in,  pushing  open  the  door  as  we  had  done  —  a 
scarlet-coated  marine,  a  bluejacket,  several  stokers, 
and  one  or  two  royal  engineers,  distinguished  by  gold- 
plated  buttons.  These  were  some  of  the  "chaps"  from 
the  steamship  "Terrible,"  come  ashore  to  meet  the 
new  American  missionaries. 


OPENING  OF  THE  CHINA  MISSION  21 

Nearly  an  hour  had  elapsed  when  the  hall  door 
opened  again.  "Well,  boys,  for  some  reason,  they 
haven't  come."  The  speaker  pushed  back  a  khaki  topee, 
and  wiped  the  moisture  from  his  forehead. 

"Haven't  come?  Come  in,  and  see  if  they  haven't 
come!"  returned  the  boys.  As  he  entered,  the  light 
fell  full  on  the  flushed  face  of  Abram  La  Rue.  I  shall 
never  forget  the  doughty  pioneer  as  I  saw  him  that 
night.  He  was  rather  below  the  average  height  of 
five  feet  and  eight  inches,  his  well-knit  figure  stooped 
with  the  weight  of  its  almost  fourscore  years.  The 
kindly  eyes  were  gray-blue;  the  firm,  thin  lips,  clean 
shaven  above,  the  chin  and  well-set  jaw  covered  by  a 
shorn  gray  beard.  The  thin  white  hair,  brushed  back 
from  the  temples  and  the  full  forehead,  revealed  the 
outlines  of  a  face  marked  by  trials  and  disappoint- 
ments, with  lines  of  gentleness  and  patience.  The 
warmth  of  his  handclasp,  and  the  genuine  cordiality 
of  his  welcome  and  hospitality,  made  us  his  friends 
from  the  beginning. 

With  permission  from  the  Mission  Board  to  select 
a  field  anywhere  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  Mr.  La  Rue 
arrived  in  Hongkong  in  1888.  "I  just  kept  within  the 
limits  of  my  commission  when  I  came  here,"  he  used 
to  say  mischievously.'  His  keen  "eye  to  business"  had 
not  failed  to  appreciate  the  excellence  of  this  location, 
on  the  crossroads  of  travel  in  the  Far  Ea.st,  as  the  base 
for  the  work  he  had  planned  to  do.  Elder  Haskell,  on 
his  trip  around  the  world,  met  this  pioneer  missionary 
here  in  Hongkong,  and  renewed  an  acquaintance  be- 
gun in  California.     At  that  time,   1899,  Mr.  La  Rue 


'  At  the  entrance  to  iti   harbor,  the  island  of  HonKkonit   Ih  Icsh   than 
a  mile  from  the  mainland  of  China. 


22  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

had  as  companion  Mr.  Olsen,  first  officer  on  the  boat 
by  which  he  had  traveled  to  China,  who  had  been  con- 
verted on  the  voyage.  At  the  time  of  our  arrival,  our 
aged  brother  had  lived  in  Hongkong  for  thirteen  years, 
doing  colporteur  work,  and  keeping  open  house  to  "the 
boys"  on  shore.  He  made  trips  to  Shanghai  and 
Japan,  and  south  to  Singapore,  Borneo,  Java,  and  Cey- 
lon, selling  books  on  board  vessels,  and  in  harbors  and 
ports  where  the  steamer  chanced  to  call.  His  simple 
faith  and  earnest  missionary  zeal  won  for  him  many 
friends  among  the  seafaring  men,  who  sometimes  gave 
him  free  passage  on  their  boats.  Once  he  traveled  as 
far  as  Jerusalem  and  the  Holy  Land.  Hundreds  of 
books  bearing  the  third  angel's  message  were  thus 
scattered  in  various  parts  of  the  world. 

Six  weeks  after  our  arrival.  Brother  La  Rue  was 
taken  seriously  ill  of  pneumonia.  Only  a  strong  con- 
stitution, preserved  by  strictly  temperate  habits,  made 
recovery  possible.  He  had  an  ardent  desire  to  live 
till  Jesus  should  come ;  but  at  the  return  of  the  season 
the  following  year,  he  suffered  another  attack  of 
pneumonia  with  grave  complications.  All  that  skilled 
advice  and  loving  care  could  do  availed  nothing.  The 
vital  forces  were  spent. 

"When  I  am  done,  I  want  every  cent  to  have  been 
invested  in  this  cause,"  he  used  to  say.  As  the  end 
drew  near,  he  made  a  formal  gift  to  the  China  Mission 
of  the  savings  of  his  lifetime.  This  accomplished,  he 
fell  asleep  almost  as  one  in  slumber,  April  26,  1903. 

OUR  FIRST  YEAR 

To  us  who  had  come  out  full  of  enthusiasm  for  the 
new  undertaking,  this  first  year  seemed,  at  the  time, 
to  accomplish  little.    One  of  the  first  and  most  difficult 


OPENING  OF  THE  CHINA  MISSION  23 

lessons  for  the  new  missionary  to  learn  is  that  the 
East  has  a  pace  all  its  own,  and  cannot  be  jogged  into 
the  Western  trot  by  any  amount  of  fussing. 

Following  Brother  La  Rue's  recovery  from  the  first 
illness,  we  set  about  fitting  up  a  home  for  ourselves, 
where  we  could  have  a  few  hours  of  quiet  each  day 
for  the  study  of  the  language.  The  rainy  season  was 
short  that  year,  and  the  hot  season  came  on  earlier 
and  hotter  than  usual.  The  atmosphere  was  oppres- 
sive, with  a  moist  heat  that  gives  tho  effect  of  a  pro- 
longed Turkish  bath.  Bubonic  plague  became  almost 
a  scourge,  and  cholera  carried  away  more  victims  than 
for  many  years.  In  August,  dengue  fever  became 
epidemic  in  the  colony.  All  four  of  us  were  down  at 
one  time,  with  only  a  young  Chinese  boy  for  help. 
Miss  Thompson  had  been  under  the  care  of  a  physician 
since  the  beginning  of  the  hot  season,  as  a  result  of 
extreme  seasickness  on  the  voyage. 

We  thought  to  better  our  condition  by  moving  a 
little  farther  back  from  the  sea,  to  a  more  elevated 
location.  Here  a  new  enemy  awaited  us.  In  the  per- 
ennial leafy  branches  of  a  giant  ban  tree  at  the  front 
of  the  house,  and  hiding  in  the  underbrush  on  the 
mountain  at  the  rear,  were  swarms  of  mosquitoes. 
Before  danger  was  suspected,  all  the  family  but  one 
had  been  inoculated  with  germs  of  malaria.  As  new 
missionaries  came  out,  they  were  warned  against  tak- 
ing any  chances  with  the  insidious  mosquito;  but  in 
spite  of  all  precautions,  a  large  proportion  of  mis- 
sionaries in  China  have  suffered  more  or  less  from 
this  nagging  disease. 

Later  we  realized  more  of  the  real  value  of  this 
first  year's  experience  in  Hongkong.    Six  men  from  the 


24 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


steamship  "Terrible,"  who  had  been  studying  with 
Brother  La  Rue,  were  baptized  soon  after  our  arrival. 
Others  became  interested;  and  in  the  course  of  that 
year,  five  or  six  more  were  baptized. 


Ivffrnational  Film 


'GOOD  MORNING 


OPENING  OF  THE  CHINA  MISSION  25 

Two  facts  in  particular  had  influenced  our  Mission 
Board  to  send  its  first  installment  of  workers  to  Hong- 
kong. First,  Brother  La  Rue  was  there.  It  would  have 
pained  that  loyal  heart  had  he  been  asked  to  return 
home;  but  it  was  certain  that  in  the  event  of  a  crisis 
such  as  might  be  expected  at  his  advanced  age,  he 
ought  not  to  be  left  dependent  on  the  care  of  strangers. 
Second,  the  political  condition  of  China  was  still  un- 
settled. Hongkong  being  a  British  colony  and  well 
garrisoned,  there  was  little  likelihood  that  the  Boxer 
movement  would  extend  to  the  island  in  case  of  an- 
other uprising.  Furthermore,  many  well  established 
missionary  societies  had  headquarters  in  Hongkong, 
and  it  was  thought  to  be  a  favorable  location  from 
which  to  study  the  problem  of  carrying  the  third 
angel's  message  into  all  China. 

STUDYING  THE  FIELD 

From  Hongkong,  Mr.  Anderson  made  a  number  of 
trips  into  the  interior  of  the  southern  provinces, — 
to  Canton  and  its  neighboring  cities  and  villages, 
through  Kwangtung  to  the  borders  of  Kwangsi. 

I  distinctly  remember  my  first  visit,  in  company 
with  my  husband,  to  an  active  mission  station  in  the 
interior.  The  mission  was  at  Shiu  Hing,  on  the  West 
River,  at  the  western  border  of  the  province  of  Kwang- 
tung. That  city  was  a  leading  center  for  the  manu- 
facture and  export  of  floor  mattings.  Formerly  it 
was  the  capital  of  this  province.  In  that  time, 
some  three  hundred  years  before  our  visit,  the  Jesuit 
Recci,  with  his  companions,  had  appeared  befcrre  the 
gates,  and  a.sked  permission  to  take  up  his  abode  there. 
These  Jesuits  professed  to  have  become  so  attached  to 
China  and  its  people  that  their  one  desire  was  to  be 


26  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

allowed  to  build  a  little  home  in  the  city,  where  they 
might  live  and  die  in  this  chosen  land.  Of  course, 
later  operations  revealed  quite  another  purpose  in 
their  coming. 

The  missionary  in  charge  was  a  young  woman, 
daughter  of  a  missionary  in  Canton,  who  had  invited 
us  to  visit  her  station.  Our  steamer  was  late,  and  the 
city  was  shrouded  in  darkness  when  we  arrived.  But 
the  small  native  boats  came  out  as  usual.  One  boat 
was  distinguished  by  a  brighter  light  than  the  others. 
As  it  drew  near,  we  saw  a  man  standing  on  its  deck 
with  a  lantern  in  his  hand.  Our  quartermaster  hailed 
him,  and  a  flow  of  words  passed  between  them. 

"They  have  come  for  you,"  the  captain  informed  us. 
"That  man  with  a  foreign  lantern  is  from  the  mis- 
sion. He  says  he  has  been  waiting  for  you  here  the 
past  four  hours." 

We  followed  the  lighted  lantern  through  unevenly 
paved  streets.  Here  and  there  was  a  lighted  gambling 
house  or  opium  den;  otherwise  the  streets  were  dark 
as  midnight.  There  was  little  danger  we  should  be- 
come separated  from  one  another  —  the  streets  were 
too  narrow  for  that.  We  reached  the  mission  house 
about  ten  o'clock,  and  were  cordially  received  by  our 
hostess  and  her  Chinese  helpers,  who  had  tea  prepared 
for  us. 

Next  morning,  we  observed  that  we  had  occupied 
the  bedroom  of  our  hostess,  it  being  the  only  one  in 
the  house.  We  noticed,  also,  that  the  house  terminated 
abruptly  in  a  flat  roof,  which  apparently  leaked  in 
places.  Our  hostess  explained  that  her  missionary 
society  had  laid  the  foundation  for  a  comfortable  two- 
story  house,  with  deep,  cooling  verandas  all  around; 


OPENING  OF  THE  CHINA  MISSION 


27 


but  when  the  building  had  reached  the  second  floor,  and 
their  intention  became  known,  the  neighbors  ob- 
jected. There  was  not  another  building  so  tall  in  all 
the  city,  they  said  —  except  the  pawnshop,  which,  being 
a  place  of  general  public  necessity,  would  of  course 
not  matter.  Such  a  structure  as  these  foreigners  pro- 
posed would  disturb  the  equilibrium  of  wind  and 
water,  and  bring  disaster  on  the  community.  A  tem- 
porary roof  was  immediately  put  on,  and  further 
building  operations  were  suspended. 

In  former  times,  when  the  preaching  of  the  gospel 
in  Shiu  Hing  was  forbidden,  and  missionaries  were 
not  allowed  within  its  walls.  Dr.  Graves  had  crawled 
in,  at  night,  under  the  gates.    At  risk  of  his  life,  he 


ONE  OF  THK  WUjKST   STREETS   IN    KUNSHAN 


28  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

gained  entrance  for  the  gospel,  and  laid  the  spiritual 
foundation  for  this  mission.  When  that  opportunity 
had  been  secured,  the  missionaries  sweetly  put  up  with 
the  inconvenience  to  which  the  superstition  of  their 
neighbors  subjected  them,  rather  than  create  prejudice 
by  ignoring  public  opinion. 

Breakfast  was  not  served  till  nine  o'clock  that  morn- 
ing, nor  on  any  morning,  in  fact.  This  is  how  that 
happened:  A  poor  peasant  woman,  having  heard  the 
gospel,  had  a  burning  desire  to  read  the  Scriptures 
for  herself,  but  could  not  go  to  school,  because  her 
help  was  needed  in  the  fields.  She  was  fifty  years  of 
age  —  and  here  let  it  be  remembered  that  between 
three  thousand  and  four  thousand  distinct  characters 
are  used  in  the  Chinese  New  Testament.  But  she  was 
determined  to  try,  and  walked  four  miles  regularly 
every  morning  to  the  mission.  Arriving  at  six  o'clock, 
she  studied  for  two  hours,  after  which  she  returned 
to  do  her  duty  in  her  husband's  fields. 

From  every  excursion  into  the  interior  of  the  coun- 
try, my  husband  returned  with  increased  respect  for 
the  Chinese  race,  and  a  clearer  realization  of  the  won- 
derful influence  the  gospel  has  power  to  exert  on  the 
lives  of  men. 

NECESSITY  OF  KNOWING  THE  LANGUAGE 

A  Chinese  brother  who  had  returned  from  the 
United  States  was  very  desirous  of  taking  up  some 
simple  work  in  his  native  village  on  the  mainland  of 
China.  He  required  no  support  for  himself,  but  re- 
quested a  small  allowance  for  the  rental  on  a  house  to 
be  used  by  him  as  a  place  in  which  to  receive  the  people 
and  teach  the  Word.    He  brought  with  him  letters  of 


Ed 
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(29) 


30  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

high  commendation  from  the  brethren  of  the  church 
in  America,  and  we  had  every  reason,  even  to  the  last, 
to  trust  him  as  a  true  disciple  of  Christ.  In  a  short 
time,  however,  he  was  in  all  sorts  of  trouble, —  dis- 
trusted by  the  authorities,  in  difficulty  over  his  lease, 
on  which  the  landlord  determined  to  collect  a  double 
rent,  since  the  house  was  used  as  a  school  by  day  and 
a  meetinghouse  by  night.  The  teacher  he  had  engaged 
complained  of  his  small  compensation.  Our  brother 
argued  that  he  was  receiving  the  same  amount  he 
formerly  received  as  teacher  of  the  village  school,  and 
should  not  expect  more;  for,  "See,"  said  he,  "how  few 
boys  there  are  —  not  more  than  five  or  six!" 

"Ah,"  retorted  the  teacher,  "how  should  I  be  able 
to  teach  a  good  large  school  on  a  wage  that  affords  me 
but  a  half  stomach  full  of  food?" 

Speaking  through  an  interpreter,  it  seemed  quite 
impossible  to  clear  things  up  to  the  satisfaction  of  the 
native  people. 

In  whatever  direction  we  turned,  and  whatever  We 
attempted  to  do,  we  became  more  and  more  convinced 
that  no  one  could  become  a  really  strong,  independent 
worker  in  China  until  he  had  first  learned  the  Chinese 
language.  He  should  at  the  very  least  be  able  to  use 
it  freely  in  conversation  and  in  public  address,  and 
should  know  enough  of  characters  to  enable  him  to 
read  the  Bible  understandingly  and  to  keep  in  touch 
with  the  life  of  the  people  through  their  current 
literature.  This  was  apparently  the  least  the  mis- 
sionary should  do  to  put  himself  on  the  plane  where 
eventually  he  might  become  "all  things  to  all  men." 

We  were  told  that  ordinarily  it  requires  from  one  to 
two  or  even  three  years  for  a  missionary  to  acquire 


OPENING  OF  THE  CHINA  MISSION  31 

a  practical  working  knowledge  of  the  language,  and 
that  he  will  find  room  for  improvement  even  to  hoary 
hairs.  From  the  beginning,  the  work  in  China  was 
built  on  the  native  foundation.  The  new  missionaries 
understood,  before  leaving  home,  that  their  perma- 
nence in  the  field  would  depend  largely  upon  their 
ability  to  acquire  the  language  of  the  section  of  coun- 
try where  they  expected  to  labor;  and  upon  arrival 
in  the  field,  they  immediately  settled  into  this  line  of 
study. 

RECRUITS  ARRIVE 

Edwin  H.  Wilbur,  and  his  wife,  nee  Haskell,  of 
Iowa,  arrived  in  Hongkong  at  the  close  of  October, 
1902.  These  were  the  first  reinforcements,  and  as  it 
turned  out,  the  first  Seventh-day  Adventist  mission- 
aries to  enter  real  China.  Mr.  Wilbur  was  not  robust; 
but  weighing  the  probability  that  under  natural  con- 
ditions, a  defective  heart  would  wear  as  long  in  China 
as  in  any  land,  he  prepared  to  make  the  sacrifice.  He 
was  a  practical  printer,  and  both  he  and  Mrs.  Wilbur 
had  nearly  completed  a  nurse's  training.  Both  were 
enthusiastic  missionaries.  Within  a  month  after 
landing  in  the  Orient,  they  settled  in  the  city  of  Can- 
ton, and  plunged  into  the  study  of  the  Cantonese  lan- 
guage. Here,  in  strictly  native  surroundings,  they 
were  obliged  to  supply  the  necessities  of  everyday  life 
through  the  medium  of  Chinese  words.  From  the 
first,  they  made  excellent  progress  in  acquiring  the 
language. 

Through  the  kindness  of  the  Southern  Baptist  mis- 
sionaries, from  whom  their  house  was  rented,  these 
new  workers  were  supplied  with  a  Christian  language 
teacher,   and   with   the   regular   service   of   a   reliable 


32  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

water-carrier.  This  latter  was  no  small  item,  since 
pure  drinking  water  was  to  be  had  only  at  mountain 
springs,  several  miles  away.  It  was  carried  in  buckets 
at  the  end  of  a  pole  on  the  shoulder  of  coolies.  The 
price  was  one  hundred  cash  (about  five  cents)  a  bur- 
den. If  a  coolie  chooses  to  save  himself  the  greater 
part  of  this  laborious  journey,  he  fills  his  bucket  at 
a  neighborhood  well,  or  from  a  pool  collected  from  a 
recent  rain.  He  probably  gets  his  "cash,"  but  some 
one  is  liable  to  suffer  from  drinking  impure  water. 

ANOTHER  VIEW  OF  THE  FIELD 
Early  in  January,  1903,  Erick  Pilquist  and  his  wife 
were  released  from  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  so- 
ciety, and  connected  with  our  Seventh-day  Adventist 
Mission.  Mr.  Anderson  was  requested  to  go  to  Honan, 
and  plan  with  them  for  a  new  mission  station  in  the 
very  heart  of  China,  and  I  was  invited  to  go  with  him. 
From  Hongkong,  we  traveled  eight  hundred  miles 
by  steamer  to  Shanghai,  thence  by  river  steamer  six 
hundred  miles  up  the  Yangtze  River  to  Hankow.  The 
last  one  hundred  miles  from  Hankow  was  made  over 
the  Belgian  Railway  to  Sin  lang  Chio,  whence  we  were 
transferred  by  wheelbarrows  to  San-li-ti-en.  That  is, 
our  baggage  was  transferred.  For  when  we  saw  the 
kind  of  conveyance  that  had  been  provided,  we  our- 
selves suddenly  preferred  exercise. 

The  great  Yangtze  River,  with  its  tributaries,  is 
the  natural  highway  of  Central  China.  At  frequent 
intervals,  populous  cities,  outspreading  their  walls, 
reach  down  to  the  water's  edge,  pouring  into  its  vast 
tide  of  commerce  products  of  the  ever-virgin  soil,  to- 
gether with  the  handicraft  of  its  skilled  workmen. 


(33) 


34  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

At  its  mouth,  the  stream  is  so  broad  as  to  appear 
like  an  arm  of  the  sea;  but  as  the  steamer  enters  the 
real  channel,  the  stream  is  seen  to  be  comparatively 
shallow.  Once  on  the  way  up,  the  steamer  creaked, 
shuddered,  and  for  an  instant  stood  still.  The  ma- 
chinery rattled  helplessly.  A  moment  of  intense  ex- 
citement followed.  Then  the  engines  took  a  deep 
breath,  puffed  heavily,  and  the  vessel  resumed  her 
course. 

"Almost  got  fast,"  the  captain  explained,  pointing 
to  a  yellowish  spot  in  the  water,  where  the  stern  of 
our  ship  had  grazed  the  end  of  a  sand  bar. 

Farther  on,  the  bed  grows  narrower,  till  from  the 
steamer's  deck,  by  aid  of  a  glass,  views  may  be  had 
of  the  Yangtze  Valley,  one  of  the  densely  populated 
regions  of  the  globe.  Here  rural  village  joins  rural 
village,  as  closely  as  farmhouses  adjoin  one  another  in 
our  Middle  West.  These  circumstances  again  re- 
minded us  of  the  impressions  made  upon  our  minds  by 
a  like  density  of  population  in  sections  of  the  southern 
provinces.  The  magnitude  of  any  undertaking  by 
which  the  gospel  light  shall  be  caused  to  shine  to  every 
kindred,  tongue,  and  people  of  China  seemed  incom- 
prehensible. 

HOW  SHALL  THE  WORK  BE  BEGUN? 

From  that  steamer  on  the  Yangtze,  lying  before  the 
city  of  Hankow,  imagination  traveled  southward  eight 
hundred  miles  to  those  cities  and  villages  of  the  south- 
ern provinces.  Befoi'e  us  another  eight  hundred  miles 
stretched  away  to  the  fertile  western  provinces,  and 
the  borders  of  Turkestan  and  Tibet  were  not  yet;  to 
the  northward  lay  eight  hundred  miles  of  fertile  plains, 


(35) 


36  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

with  Mongolia  and  Manchuria  still  beyond;  while  be- 
hind us  were  the  populous  cities  of  the  coast  plain. 
A  circle  with  eight  hundred  miles  as  its  radius  and 
Hankow  as  its  center  barely  incloses  the  heart  of  this 
great  country.  This  is  the  beginning  of  a  realization 
of  what  is  meant  by  "China's  400,000,000." 

And  everywhere  —  from  heathen  altars  everywhere 
—  rises  the  smoke  of  idolatrous  incense.  In  not  one 
in  forty  of  the  villages  of  even  this  best-worked  por- 
tion of  China,  the  Yangtze  Valley,  had  the  gospel  been 
proclaimed  by  any  agent  whatsoever;  and  in  all  the 
vast  area  of  China,  the  third  angel's  message  had  not 
a  herald.  The  question  then  was  not,  How  shall  the 
work  be  done?  but.  How  shall  this  work  be  begun? 

AN  APPEAL  TO  THE  GENERAL  CONFERENCE  OF  1903 

During  this  visit  to  Central  China,  Mr.  Anderson 
was  so  moved  by  China's  great  need,  and  by  the  at- 
traction of  the  wonderful  gospel  opportunities  she  af- 
fords, that  he  vi^rote  a  long  letter  to  the  Mission  Board, 
setting  forth  the  situation  quite  fully,  and  appealing 
for  workers  and  means.  This  letter  reached  Oakland 
at  the  opening  of  the  General  Conference  session  of 
1903,  and  Elder  W.  A.  Spicer  brought  its  contents  to 
the  attention  of  that  body,  thus: 

"We  have  just  received  a  letter  from  Brother  J.  N. 
Anderson  in  China.  .  .  .  He  is  in  that  land  of  400,- 
000,000.  We  have  half  a  dozen  workers  there;  and 
Brother  Anderson  reports  that  he  has  made  a  journey 
into  the  far  interior,  to  the  province  of  Honan,  and 
there  he  found  six  adult  Chinese  ready  for  baptism. 
.  .  .  They  are  men  of  intelligence,  some  of  them  being 
ready  to  go  out  into  the  work  for  others.     The  first 


OPENING  OF  THE  CHINA  MISSION  37 

Seventh-day  Adventist  church  has  been  organized  in 
China,  not  along  the  seacoast,  but  in  the  far  interior. 
.  .  .  People  are  .  .  .  inquiring  after  the  truth.  Now, 
with  that  situation  pressing  upon  him,  and  with  400,- 
000,000  souls  round  about  him  in  the  darkness,  he 
writes  to  the  conference,  asking  if  it  would  not  be  pos- 
sible to  suggest  that  every  conference  in  America  send 
one  of  its  laborers  to  enter  that  great  land  that  we 
have  neglected  these  fifty  years.  It  may  be  thought 
too  much,  and  that  it  is  not  a  practical  suggestion; 
but  surely  it  would  not  be  too  much  for  China's  four 
hundred  millions.  These  fifty  years  we  have  heard  of 
the  woes  and  sorrows  of  China;  but  during  these  fifty 
years,  we  have  never  told  suffering  China  of  the  glori- 
ous message  of  salvation  that  God  has  given  to  us;  yet 
during  all  these  fifty  years,  during  every  month  of  it, 
a  million  a  month  in  China  have  been  dying  without 
God." —  W.  A.  Spicer,  General  Conference  Bulletin, 
page  65,  April  3,  1903. 

GETTING  A  START  IN  THE  LANGUAGE 

On  returning  to  Hongkong  from  this,  to  us,  most 
inspiring  visit  in  Honan,  my  husband  decided  to  lay 
aside  everything  else  as  fast  as  possible,  and  devote 
himself  to  the  study  of  the  Chinese  language  and 
people.  The  latter,  we  were  assured,  would  be  much 
the  more  difficult,  but  we  could  scarcely  expect  really 
to  begin  studying  the  people  until  we  were  al)le  to 
communicate  freely  in  their  own  words.  Accordingly, 
he  secured  the  services  of  the  l)est  teacher  of  Chinese 
available,  who  was  engaged  to  teach  the  three  of  us, 
Miss  Thompson,  my  husband,  and  me,  for  four  hours 
a  day.     Part  of  this  time,  we  read  in  class  drill;  but 


38  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

a  portion  of  each  period  was  directed  to  individual 
drill  on  tones,  in  pronunciation,  and  in  writing  charac- 
ters. This  man  had  been  trained  by  missionaries  of 
the  Berlin  Mission,  with  characteristic  thoroughness. 
He  knew  his  business,  and  went  straight  to  the  point. 

TRIALS  OF  LANGUAGE  STUDY 
We  had  now  been  in  Hongkong  a  full  year,  and  dur- 
ing this  time,  had  studied  with  a  teacher  as  a  class 
for  two  hours  daily,  when  we  had  been  able  to  do  so. 
But  we  were  very  dissatisfied  with  the  results.  It 
seemed  to  us  we  repeated  the  teacher's  words  exactly 
as  he  pronounced  them;  but  after  our  best  efforts, 
repeated  over  and  over,  he  usually  said,  "Lee-ta 
diff'ence,"  or  a  Chinese  phrase  which  meant,  "About 
so,"  but  which,  as  he  pronounced  it  rather  indistinctly, 
sounded  to  us  exactly  like  "Chop  it  off."  This  was 
usually  taken  as  a  signal  to  proceed.  I  suppose  he 
thought  that  what  the  "little  difference"  really  was 
would  dawn  on  the  stupid  brains  of  the  foreigners 
sometime,  and  with  true  Oriental  patience,  he  could 
afford  to  wait  for  that  dawning  so  long  as  his  pay 
came  regularly. 

When  Mr.  Wong  took  us  in  hand,  he  got  to  the  point 
at  once,  and  we  soon  found  out  wherein  that  "little 
difference"  lay.  When  he  pronounced  the  word  fan 
in  an  upper,  even  tone,  it  meant  come  back.  When 
he  said  fan  in  the  lower-going  tone,  it  meant  cooked 
rice.  In  Chinese,  the  tone  in  which  a  word  is  pro- 
nounced has  as  much  to  do  w^ith  its  significance  as 
the  vowel  sound  has  to  do  with  an  English  word.  One 
might  as  well  say  "sheep"  and  mean  ship,  as  to  pro- 
nounce the  syllable  fan  without  the  proper  tonal  dis- 


OPENING  OF  THE  CHINA  MISSION  39 

tinction.  Some  one  has  said,  "Chinese  is  never  spoken, 
but  always  sung;"  and  so  it  seemed  to  us  as  we 
readjusted  our  vocabulary  of  Chinese  words  on  the 
proper  scale  of  nine  principal  tones  and  several  sec- 
ondary tones. 

This  experience  taught  us  that  the  best  language 
teacher  is  none  too  good.  We  learned,  too,  that  the 
more  precise  and  exacting  he  is,  the  fewer  mistakes 
one  must  unlearn;  and  that  the  royal  way  to  get  Chi- 
nese is  to  take  it  through  the  pores  —  that  is,  to  sweat 
for  it.  It  was  a  hard  experience;  but  we  were  happy 
in  it,  for  it  was  bringing  us  nearer  to  the  real  China. 

ENTERING  REAL  CHINA 

For  fourteen  months,  we  had  camped  on  its  borders, 
waiting  opportunity  to  cross  over  into  "the  Flowery 
Land,"  as  the  Chinese  have  ever  loved  to  call  their 
country.  This  opportunity  came  when,  after  a  resi- 
dence of  five  months  in  Canton,  Brother  Wilbur's 
family  required  a  change  to  more  healthful  surround- 
ings. Accordingly  they  returned  to  Hongkong,  and 
we  moved  to  Canton. 

The  house  that  the  Wilburs  had  occupied  was  to  be 
our  home.  The  building  itself  was  a  gray-brick  struc- 
ture of  two  stories.  The  dwelling  was  above,  the  lower 
floor  being  intended  for  a  chapel.  But  the  chapel's 
street  door  was  shut,  and  padlocked  with  a  heavy  iron 
clasp  and  staple.  How  that  empty  room  with  its 
closed  door  spurred  us  on  to  diligent  study!  Here  was 
a  place  ready  for  the  telling  of  the  glad  news  of  sal- 
vation. Indeed,  big  Chinese  characters  over  the  door 
announced  the  place  as  literally  the  "Blessed  Voice 
Hall."     Many  a  passer-by  read  those  words,  tried  the 


40  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

lock,  peered  in  through  the  iron-grated  windows,  then 
with  a  wondering  look  up  into  the  open  veranda  above, 
went  his  way. 

At  the  rear,  connected  with  our  house  as  part  of 
the  premises,  stands  the  "old  chapel."  This  is  the  spot 
to  which  Hung  San  Tsiien  came  for  instruction  in  the 
Bible  after  those  remarkable  visions  in  which  he  be- 
lieved himself  to  have  been  called  to  destroy  idol  wor- 
ship out  of  China.  From  this  old  chapel,  he  went  forth 
on  that  mission  which,  from  a  small  beginning  of  re- 
form in  his  own  family  and  among  his  kinsmen  and 
neighbors,  later  developed  into  the  Taiping  Rebellion. 
Though  the  but  partial  light  of  the  leader  was  later 
greatly  obscured  by  fanaticism  and  error,  yet  through 
this  agency,  there  was  cast  into  the  religious  life  of 
the  nation  a  leaven  of  truth  which  has  never  ceased  to 
work.  It  was  of  interest  to  us  that,  following  only 
the  Scriptures  as  their  guide,  the  Taipings  adopted 
"the  Ten  Heavenly  Rules"  as  the  moral  standard  of 
conduct,  observing  "the  seventh  day  as  the  day  of 
worship,  and  of  praise  to  God."  Our  first  small  train- 
ing school  for  young  men  was  after  a  time  opened  in 
the  "old  chapel,"  where  the  Taiping  leader  had  been 
taught. 

AT  HOME  IN  CHINA 

April,  1903,  we  reached  the  goal  toward  which  our 
faces  had  been  steadfastly  set  since  we  left  home.  We 
were  in  China  at  last,  located  in  Canton,  the  great 
metropolis  of  South  China,  a  city  in  commercial  and 
political  importance  second  to  none  in  the  land,  unless 
first  place  be  conceded  to  Peking,  the  nation's  capital. 
As  a  Protestant  mission  center,  Canton  is  parent  of  all. 


o 
z 

u 
o 

< 
H 
CO 

U 


(41) 


42 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


Within  these  native  walls,  and  overflowing  on  all  its 
sides,  is  a  purely  native  population  of  two  and  one 
half  million  souls.  On  every  hand  were  signs  of  that 
suffering  need  which  had  touched  our  hearts  by  hear- 
say in  the  homeland.  How  insufferably  needy  these 
souls  now  appeared  by  actual  contact!  That  the  soil 
of  these  sin-scarred  pagan  hearts  was  ready  for  the 
seed,  was  apparent  in  the  curious,  friendly  faces  that 
gazed  after  us  whenever  we  went  into  the  streets. 
What  a  splendid  place  was  this  in  which  to  bury  that 
"corn  of  wheat"  men  call  one's  life! 


Bethel  Girls'  School 

Ida  E.  Thompson 

The  first  Seventh-day  Adventist  girls'  school  in 
China  was  opened  in  the  city  of  Canton  in  the  spring 
of  1904.  At  first,  it  was  sheltered  in  a  Chinese  private 
dwelling  house;  but  later  a  group  of  buildings  erected 
by  the  Southern  Baptist  Mission  for  a  boys'  training 
school  was  purchased.  The  little  day  school,  then 
transferred  to  more  commodious  quarters,  became  a 
boarding  school  as  well,  and  was  christened  "Bethel 
Girls'  School."  This  name  was  adopted  in  compliment 
to  my  native  state.  I  had  come  out  to  China  from 
Wisconsin,  and  was  maintained  at  the  expense  of  that 
conference.  The  Wisconsin  Conference  had  called 
their  intermediate  school  "Bethel  School";  so  this 
name  was  chosen  for  our  mission  school.  Aside  from 
this,  Bethel  —  house  of  God  —  appealed  to  us  as  being 
an  appropriate  title  for  a  Christian  school  set  in  the 
midst  of  a  great  heathen  city. 

I  had  been  in  China  almost  two  years,  and  my  heart 
was  deeply  stirred  by  the  deplorable  spiritual  con- 
dition of  its  women,  for  whose  uplift  their  own  people 
appeared  to  be  doing  next  to  nothing.  Our  work  in 
China  was  in  its  earliest  beginnings,  and  money  for  all 
purposes  was  scarce.  To  help  out,  I  had  been  teaching 
English  to  wealthy  Chinese  boys  half  a  day,  and  study- 
ing Chinese  under  a  teacher  the  remaining  half  day. 
As  I  was  now  able  to  read  a  little,  and  to  speak  a  little 
more,  in  Chinese,  I  felt  impelled  to  do  something  for 
these  women,  especially  for  the  better  class,  whom  1 
pitied  most,  because  they  were  most  helpless,  most 
idle,  and  therefore  most  unhappy.    In  a  letter  to  Elder 

(4:i) 


44  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

William  Covert,  for  a  number  of  years  president  of  my 
home  conference,  I  confided  to  him  this  great  desire 
of  my  heart.  "If  there  were  only  a  small  sum  of  money 
that  could  be  used  for  the  purpose,  I  certainly  should 
undertake  to  open  a  girls'  school,"  I  said. 

"go  ahead" 

In  less  time  than  is  usually  required  for  mail  to 
make  that  distance,  half  way  round  the  world  and 
back,  the  reply  came:  "Go  ahead,  and  open  a  girls' 
school.  Wisconsin  will  supply  the  means  required  for 
its  maintenance."  And  so  it  did.  Not  for  one  year 
only,  but  for  the  first  five  years  of  its  existence,  the 
school  was  supported  wholly  by  private  gifts.  The 
home  people  called  Bethel  Girls'  School  "our  night 
school,"  because  it  worked  while  they  slept. 

Now  that  means  was  at  hand,  I  moved  to  Canton, 
this  metropolis  of  South  China  having  been  selected 
as  the  natural  location  for  the  headquarters  of  our 
work  in  this  section.  Elder  J.  N.  Anderson  and  family 
had  come  up  from  Hongkong  a  few  months  earlier. 

the  need 
Imagine  yourself  in  a  great  city  of  two  and  a  half 
millions  of  people.  At  least  half  of  this  population  is 
feminine;  for  nature,  apparently  in  resentment  against 
the  teaching  of  the  Chinese  sages,  seems  to  have  mul- 
tiplied the  birth  rate  of  the  "inferior  sex,"  In  perhaps 
half  the  homes  of  this  city,  "wife"  is  a  word  to  be 
used  in  the  plural,  and  may  include  any  number  from 
two  to  twenty.  Not  one  woman  in  a  hundred  can  read 
suflSciently  to  gather  information  from  the  printed 
page.  Education  is  denied  to  women,  for  the  reason 
that  to  expend  money  in  this  way  is  thought  to  be 


2: 

o 

z 

<: 
o 

H 

0. 


S 


H 
O 

< 

o 
u 

K 

Q 

z 


« 
H 

b. 
O 

U 

■A 

o 


46  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

virtually  giving  means  to  that  other  family  into  which 
she  will  be  married  at  an  early  age.  At  any  rate,  what 
more  is  to  be  expected  of  these  inferior  beings  than 
that  they  shall  rear  children,  and  make  garments  and 
shoes  for  the  family?  Since  the  Chinese  regard  a 
literary  education  as  wasted  on  womankind,  the  ma- 
jority of  our  neighbors  in  Canton  naturally  looked  with 
suspicion  on  the  motives  of  foreigners  who  promoted 
this  innovation. 

Under  such  circumstances,  the  opening  of  this  first 
school  was  undertaken.  A  house  was  not  easily  ob- 
tained, as  not  every  owner  was  willing  to  rent  to  a 
foreigner  for  such  a  purpose.  Nor  would  every  com- 
munity allow  a  girls'  school  to  be  operated  among  them, 
for  fear  of  its  upsetting  the  social  order  and  even 
nature  itself.  And  not  every  Chinese  house  could  be 
remodeled  into  suitable  quarters  for  such  an  under- 
taking. However,  through  the  persevering  and  per- 
suasive efforts  of  our  chapel  boy,  a  place  was  finally 
secured. 

THE  BUILDING 

The  house  selected  faced  a  street  of  average  width, 
but  in  fact  so  narrow  that  persons  carrying  umbrellas, 
or  wearing  broad  oilskin  hats  on  a  rainy  day,  were 
obliged  to  tip  these  shelters  on  edge  in  passing  one 
another.  Along  the  west  side  of  the  house  ran  another 
such  street.  The  windows,  and  all  other  openings 
except  one  door  into  the  street,  opened  upon  a  court 
in  the  center.  There  was  one  very  favorable  feature 
about  the  place.  On  the  east,  an  open  space  about  the 
width  of  the  average  American  country  road  or  city 
street  led  down  to  the  bank  of  Pearl  River,  nearly  two 


BETHEL  GIRLS'  SCHOOL  47 

blocks  away.  Through  this  open  space,  the  south  wind, 
cooled  and  sweetened  in  its  passage  over  the  stream, 
found  its  way  into  the  court  and  circulated  through 
its  living  quarters.  There  was  not  a  tree  on  the  prem- 
ises, nor  a  foot  of  open  ground  connected  with  them; 
but  to  the  native  mind,  this  mattered  not,  for  Chinese 
children  are  sent  to  school  to  study,  not  to  play. 

GETTING  RID  OF  OLD  DIRT 

The  next  step  was  to  put  the  place  in  order.  The 
inside  of  the  walls  of  the  house  were  of  the  same  brick 
structure  as  was  the  outside,  only  the  outside  had  been 
troweled  and  finished  a  little  more  smoothly  in  build- 
ing. The  mud  walls  were  soon  hidden  beneath  a  snowy 
coat  of  lime.  Windows  were  cleaned,  and  one  or  two 
new  ones  were  put  in,  to  admit  more  light  and  air. 
The  woodwork  was  freshly  painted,  and  the  tile  floors 
were  scrubbed  till  the  surface  of  each  terra  cotta 
square  appeared  distinctly  outlined  by  its  white 
cement. 

Numerous  questions  were  asked  of  the  native  work- 
men as  they  passed  back  and  forth,  bringing  in  ma- 
terials and  carrying  out  rubbish.  Many  a  prying 
neighbor  thrust  his  head  in  through  the  door  as  it  was 
opened,  to  see  what  was  going  on.  When  the  work 
was  finished,  a  few  potted  palms  and  flowering  plants 
were  set  about  the  court  and  in  the  windows.  The 
customary  red  sign  in  black  ink  was  tacked  to  the 
street  door,  announcing  a  free  school  for  girls  to  be 
opened  in  this  house  on  the  twenty-fifth  of  May. 

THE  TEACHER  ARRIVES 
Missionaries  of  other  denominations,  pioneering  the 
way  into  China,  had  often  been  obliged  to  begin  their 


48  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

school  work  with  heathen  teachers.  We  were  fortu- 
nate to  secure  the  service  of  a  young  woman  educated 
in  the  Baptist  Mission  School,  and  therefore  a  Chris- 
tian, though  not  of  our  faith.  Two  days  before  school 
was  to  open,  the  teacher  arrived,  accompanied  by 
several  older  women;  for  no  modest  young  woman 
might  appear  in  public  unattended.  The  small  boys, 
always  on  lookout  duty  at  the  street  doors,  shouted  to 
the  women  back  in  the  courts,  "A  fine  young  lady  is 
passing!" 

"Follow  her!  See  where  she  goes!"  came  the  an- 
swer; and  the  black  eyes  of  the  women,  peering 
through  the  cracks  of  the  gate,  followed  her  as  far  as 
they  could  see.  In  this  way,  the  arrival  of  the  teacher 
became  another  means  by  which  the  opening  of  the 
new  school  was  announced. 

THE  SCHOOLROOM 

If  you  had  seen  that  room  as  it  was  prepared  ready 
for  school  to  begin,  you  would  have  thought  it  did  not 
look  much  like  a  schoolroom;  for  its  furniture  con- 
sisted of  barely  one  desk  and  chair,  intended  for  the 
teacher's  use,  and  a  rather  glossy-looking  blackboard. 
By  the  time  the  new  teacher  arrived,  five  desks  and 
stools  had  been  placed  by  prospective  pupils.  The  day 
before  school  was  to  open,  there  was  an  almost  con- 
tinuous stream  of  callers. 

"Who  may  come  to  this  school?  May  a  girl  come 
who  is  not  handsome,  but  wishes  to  learn  characters?" 

"Will  the  girls  who  come  here  be  taught  to  read  the 
characters  of  our  native  land,  or  only  the  foreign  lan- 
guage?" 

"May  slave  girls  come  to  this  school  and  learn  to 
read?" 


BETHEL  GIRLS    SCHOOL 


49 


"Must  girls  who  have  bound  feet,  unbind  them  be- 
fore they  may  be  admitted?" 

To  all  such  questions,  one  answer  was  given.  Any 
girl  who  would  conduct  herself  becomingly,  and  study 
faithfully,  and  provide  her  own  books  and  desk  and 
seat,  would  be  cheerfully  accepted.  The  school  would 
be  open  for  study  every  day  in  the  week,  but  on  the 
seventh  day  would  continue  for  a  half  day  only.  That 
time  would  be  spent  in  singing,  and  in  reading  the 
Holy  Book. 

EARLY   MORNING  OF  THE   "FIRST  DAY" 

The  dawn  of  that  opening  day  found  us  not  without 
some  fears  and  misgivings.     But  early,  almost  with 


MUTE  KVIOENCE  OF  THE  SUFI-EKINC  CAUSED  BY  THE  OLIt 
CUSTOM   OF  FOOT  BINDING 


50  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

the  rising  of  the  sun,  the  iron  knocker  sounded  through 
the  house:  Bang!  Bang!  Clang! 

"Asham,  open  door !  I  have  brought  a  table  for  the 
little  daughter  [her  mistress's  child].  Pardon  me,  I 
ought  not  to  ask  it,  but  will  you  help  me  let  it  off  my 
shoulder?  Where  shall  I  place  it?  Here  are  her  books. 
Keep  them  safely  for  her."  As  she  spoke,  the  servant 
placed  in  the  doorkeeper's  hands  the  precious  bundle, 
neatly  wrapped  in  a  striped  red  and  green  silk  hand- 
kerchief, and  turned  to  go. 

"Sit  and  rest,  please;  I  vv^ill  go  to  fetch  the  child." 

"Walk  slowly  and  well,"  courteously  returned  the 
woman  at  the  door;  "but  really  you  must  make  haste, 
for  these  foreigners  will  begin  exactly  on  time,  at 
eight  o'clock." 

So  they  came  one  after  another  —  twenty-five  desks 
of  all  shapes  and  sizes  and  qualities,  from  poor  pine 
tables  on  tottering  legs  to  respectable  teakwood  ar- 
ticles with  seats  to  match,  and  polished  ebony  sets. 
According  to  my  judgment,  the  room  (11  by  19  feet  in 
size)  was  far  too  full,  for  the  hot  weather  was  already 
upon  us ;  but  this  was  Egoo's  first  school,  and  she  was 
too  elated  with  the  joy  and  pride  of  her  prospects  to 
allow  any  to  be  turned  away.  With  wonderful  in- 
genuity, she  arranged  the  tables  compactly,  leaving 
only  a  narrow  aisle  down  the  middle,  and  a  narrower 
space  at  the  sides,  between  the  tables  and  the  wall. 
This  was  more  as  a  precaution  against  chill  from  the 
porous  brick  walls  than  to  provide  a  passageway. 
How  will  she  be  able  to  keep  an  eye  on  their  doings 
behind  those  tables,  packed  as  they  are?  was  the 
question  in  my  mind.  But  Egoo  knew  better  than  I 
how  little  watching  those  eager  children  would  require. 


BETHEL  GIRLS'  SCHOOL  51 

By  seven  o'clock,  the  pupils  began  coming,  some 
carried  on  the  backs  of  servants,  others  walking  in 
care  of  a  relative  or  servant  carrying  their  books, 
while  a  very  few  ventured  in  alone.  Each  presented 
herself  at  the  teacher's  desk,  and  with  a  very  low  bow, 
laid  on  the  table  a  little  present,  according  as  she  was 
able  to  afford,  of  copper  or  silver  coins  snugly  wrapped 
in  red  paper. 

At  eight  o'clock,  the  bell  was  tapped,  although  every 
child  was  already  sitting  quietly  at  her  desk.  The 
teacher  rose  to  open  the  school. 

"Children,"  she  said,  "put  your  hands  together,  this 
way.  Now  close  your  eyes  tightly  —  let  no  one  open 
them  till  I  bid  you,  for  I  am  going  to  pray." 

Not  one  of  them  knew  what  it  is  to  pray;  but  each 
child,  following  the  teacher's  movements,  laid  her 
palms  together,  and  drew  the  slender  brown  hands  to 
her  breast,  closed  her  eyes,  nor  moved  a  muscle  till  the 
prayer  was  ended. 

THE  FIRST  SONG 
"Open  your  eyes.  Now  we  will  sing."  Every  eye 
was  on  the  teacher's  lips  as  she  repeated  a  verse  trans- 
lated from  "Jesus  Loves  Me,  This  I  Know."  When  the 
words  had  been  learned,  she  led  out  in  singing.  The 
pupils  were  instructed  to  try  to  imitate  her  tones,  and 
to  sing,  even  though  they  did  not  know  the  tune.  Prob- 
ably not  one  of  them  had  ever  before  made  an  attempt 
of  this  kind.  Some  craned  their  necks  in  a  .strenuous 
effort  to  reach  the  pitch,  and  others  shrugged  up  their 
shoulders  and  drew  down  their  heads  in  embarra.s.s- 
ment.  Some  clenched  their  teeth  in  fright  at  their 
own  voices,  while  others  were  so  engro.ssed  in  attention 


52  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

to  the  teacher  that  they  stood  with  wide-open  mouths, 
forgetting  to  make  a  sound.  But  that  singing  was 
fine;  for  the  spirit  of  the  whole  exercise  spelled,  /  am 
here  to  do  my  best. 

The  method  of  assigning  the  lessons,  and  the  study 
period  that  followed,  were  quite  novel  to  me.  One  at  a 
time,  the  children  were  called  to  the  desk,  and  each 
was  taught  how  to  salute  the  teacher,  and  to  make  a 
proper  and  deferential  bow.  It  was  Egoo's  custom  to 
sit  quite  motionless,  without  noticing  the  child  in  the 
least,  till  this  token  of  respect  was  paid.  Then  she 
took  up  the  book  the  child  had  laid  on  her  table,  and 
opened  it  at  the  place  the  Occidental  would  suppose 
to  be  the  back  page,  but,  true  to  the  habits  of  our  an- 
tipodes, at  what  was  really  the  first  page  of  a  Chinese 
book.  Pointing  to  the  character  at  the  upper  right- 
hand  corner  of  the  page,  she  read,  following  with  her 
finger  the  perpendicular  line  from  top  to  bottom,  paus- 
ing after  each  word  for  the  child  to  repeat  it.  The 
process  was  continued  till  the  pupil  was  able  to  read 
the  lesson. 

ORDER  IN  THE  SCHOOLROOM 

"Teacher,  pardon  me,  but  I  know  it  now;"  and  with 
a  graceful  bow,  the  girl  would  go  back  to  her  seat,  to 


From  ancient  times  down  to  the  revolution  a  few  years 
ago,  no  one  but  a  high  official,  or  a  doctor  of  philosophy, 
might  stand  upon  the  dragon.  For  any  one  else  to  do  so 
meant  immediate  death  lay  beheading.  It  was  believed 
that  the  dragon  gave  power  and  authority  to  officials;  and 
the  magistrates,  when  addressing  the  people,  stood  upon 
the  dragon's  head.  Very  learned  men,  when  lecturing  to 
students  upon  subjects  of  philosophy,  stood  upon  the 
dragon's  head;  for  it  was  believed  that  the  dragon  gave 
knowledge  and  wisdom  to  men  of  learning. 


'STANDING  ON   THK  DRAGON' 
Se«  footnote  on  opposite  paKc. 


(5:i) 


54  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

repeat  aloud,  over  and  over,  the  lesson  she  had  been 
taught,  keeping  the  place  vv^ith  her  finger  as  the  teacher 
had  done.  Then  another  girl  took  her  place  at  the 
teacher's  desk,  and  was  put  through  a  similar  drill. 
When  a  dozen  pupils,  each  Avith  a  different  lesson,  had 
got  under  way,  those  who  began  first  felt  obliged  to 
raise  their  voices  in  order  to  hear  themselves  think. 
By  the  time  work  had  been  assigned  to  the  twenty-five, 
the  schoolroom  was  a  Babel  of  voices. 

Later  the  school  was  graded  and  classified  with  uni- 
form lessons.  This  made  less  confusion.  Often  one 
child  has  the  generalship  to  assert  a  leading  voice; 
then  the  others  gradually  fall  into  line,  till  the  whole 
may  be  heard  repeating  the  lesson  in  concert.  In  time, 
one  becomes  accustomed  to  the  din,  and  senses  the 
dropping  off  of  a  voice  or  two  as  perceptibly  as  an 
engineer  feels  the  failure  of  a  part. of  his  machine  to 
work  smoothly.  No  lesson  was  regarded  as  learned 
till  it  could  be  repeated  from  memory.  That  first  year, 
the  class  in  Bible  committed  to  memory  the  entire 
Gospel  of  Mark. 

OPEN  HOUSE 

Our  doorkeeper  had  orders  to  admit  visitors  at  all 
reasonable  hours,  and  to  allow  them  full  freedom  about 
the  place,  but  always  keeping  them  under  her  eye. 
Every  part  of  the  house,  including  my  own  private 
quarters,  was  held  open  to  inspection  on  request  of 
visitors.  This  was  in  order  to  convince  the  natives 
that  we  had  no  secret  designs  upon  the  girls,  and  no 
other  motive  than  to  be  a  benefit  to  them. 

Visitors  often  walked  about  the  place  during  school 
hours,  making  observations  on  its  appearance,  on  the 
conduct  of  the  school,  and  concerning  the  individuals 


BETHEL  GIRLS'  SCHOOL  55 

in  charge.  Taking  in  an  impression  from  the  white 
walls  and  the  green  palms,  one  remarks, 

"How  very  clean  and  cool  it  is  in  here!" 

"It  certainly  is  a  goodly  place,"  replies  a  companion. 

"Yours  are  very  industrious  pupils,  indeed,"  is  a 
compliment  intended  to  attract  the  teacher's  attention. 
But  the  teacher  pursues  her  teaching,  and  the  pupils 
their  study,  exactly  as  if  no  other  persons  were  present. 

"Teacher,  where  do  you  live?  Ah,  she  is  busy !  Ob- 
serve how  steadfastly  her  heart  is  set  on  teaching 
children." 

"Teacher,  how  much  salary  do  you  receive?" 

"Teacher,  how  old  is  the  foreign  woman  in  charge 
of  this  school?" 

When  the  Chinese  teacher  makes  no  reply,  the  visi- 
tor is  quite  likely  to  approach  .the  foreigner  herself. 

"That  is  a  durable  garment  you  wear;  did  you  make 
it  yourself?"  Awaiting  a  reply,  the  questioner  may 
proceed  to  examine  the  stitches,  in  order  to  satisfy 
herself  of  the  foreigner's  capabilities  at  sewing.  "Ah, 
it  is  only  made  on  a  machine!"  she  remarks  depreciat- 
ingly. 

"Are  you  married?"  she  inquires.  Then,  musingly: 
"Strange  these  foreign  women  do  up  their  hair  before 
marriage!     Perhaps  she  intends  never  to  marry." 

All  the  information  gained  by  observation  and  in- 
terrogation will  be  carried  home,  and  told  in  the  wom- 
en's quarters.  One  can  never  know  what  avenues  of 
usefulness  may  be  opened  to  the  school  through  an 
inquisitive  visitor. 

FESTAL  DAYS  AND  CUSTOMS 
A   Chinese   feast  day   is  attached   to  almost  every 
month  of  the  year.    As  a  rule,  the  girl.s  attended  school 


56  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

on  feast  days  as  at  other  times,  but  usually  in  holiday 
attire.  On  such  occasions,  the  schoolroom  reminded 
one  of  an  old-fashioned  flower  garden,  with  gay  blos- 
soms of  every  color.  It  was  distinctly  understood  that 
ours  was  a  Christian  school,  and  absolutely  without 
connection  with  the  gods  of  the  land;  but  the  social 
customs  of  some  of  these  festal  seasons  did  overflow  to 
the  schoolroom.  I  refer  particularly  to  the  custom  of 
sending  gifts  to  friends  at  the  time  of  the  principal 
feasts.  On  these  occasions,  a  servant,  or  a  member  of 
the  family  when  no  servant  was  employed,  was  sent 
from  each  family  represented  in  the  school,  to  bring 
congratulations  and  a  present  to  the  teacher.  These 
gifts  consisted  of  fruits,  cakes,  delicacies,  confections, 
and  roasts  —  duck,  chicken,  or  pork.  A  small  amount 
of  money  accompanied  these  articles,  being  wrapped 
in  the  customary  red  paper,  and  placed  at  the  very  bot- 
tom of  the  receptacle.  Often  a  live  chicken  or  duck 
was  included. 

The  teacher  accepted  these  presents  graciously,  and 
judiciously  selected  the  portion  she  thought  proper  to 
retain.  The  remainder  was  replaced  in  the  carrier. 
She  kept  the  money  altogether,  a  few  copper  pieces 
from  her  own  pocket  being  wrapped  in  the  same  piece 
of  red  paper,  and  slipped  into  one  side  of  the  carrier, 
near  the  top.  The  bearer  returned  the  carrier,  with 
its  remaining  contents,  to  her  mistress,  reserving  to 
herself  only  the  red  paper  containing  the  coins,  as  a  tip. 

These  gifts  on  occasions  of  festivals  were  intended 
simply  as  a  token  of  appreciation  of  the  teacher's  faith- 
ful work.  But  in  the  course  of  the  year,  they 
amounted  to  a  considerable  and  acceptable  addition  to 
her  slender  wages. 


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(57) 


58  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

A  Sabbath  session,  which  was  really  a  prolonged 
Sabbath  school  conducted  with  one  big  class,  was  held 
every  Sabbath  forenoon.  The  children  could  not  read ; 
and  there  were  no  Sabbath  school  lessons  in  Chinese, 
even  had  they  been  able  to  study  them.  No  helps  of 
any  kind  had  yet  been  provided;  so  we  sang  songs, 
and  told  or  read  gospel  stories.  At  the  close,  there 
was  given  to  each  child  a  Bible  picture  card  out  of  the 
stock  sent  to  us  by  children  in  America.  These  bright 
cards  were  very  precious  to  the  Chinese  children,  who 
often  lingered  after  school  to  hear  told  the  stories 
represented  by  the  pictures  on  their  cards.  When  the 
pupils  had  learned  to  read,  simple  lessons  were  pre- 
pared, and  copies  printed  on  a  homemade  hectograph 
were  given  the  girls  to  study. 

As  the  confidence  of  our  patrons  was  assured,  our 
Sabbath  session  was  merged  with  the  regular  Sabbath 
school  and  service  at  the  mission  chapel.  The  pupils 
met  at  the  schoolhouse  as  usual,  and  from  there 
marched  in  a  body  to  the  chapel. 

A  NEW  SCHOOL  HOME 

In  1906,  the  Baptist  Academy  building  was  pur- 
chased; and  from  that  time.  Bethel  Girls'  School  was 
lodged  in  its  own  home.  That  year,  we  opened  a  school 
home,  and  took  in  twenty  boarding  pupils.  From  this 
time,  our  work  was  much  more  effective,  especially  for 
the  girls  in, the  home,  who  were  by  this  arrangement 
completely  separated  from  idol  worship  as  continually 
practiced  in  the  family  life.  Regular  hours  for  family 
devotion  were  appointed.  Friday  evening  prayer 
meetings  were  held,  in  which  the  pupils  began  to  take 
an  active  part.     One  small  room  in  the  building  was 


BETHEL  girls'  SCHOOL  59 

set  apart  as  a  prayer  room.  Only  one  student  was 
supposed  to  enter  at  a  time,  except  by  special  permis- 
sion, when  several  might  wish  to  pray  together.  Often 
on  my  nightly  rounds  to  see  that  lights  were  out  and 
that  everything  was  in  order  for  the  night,  I  have 
heard  voices  from  that  little  room  pleading  with  a  new- 
found Saviour  for  unconverted  companions  in  Bethel 
School.  He  who  hears  in  secret  gave  open  reward. 
One  by  one,  those  girls  in  the  school  home  rose  in  the 
Friday  evening  prayer  services  to  confess  the  Saviour. 

WORKING  FOR  OTHERS 

A  young  people's  meeting  was  held  on  Sabbath  after- 
noon, conducted  by  the  older  girls  of  the  home.  There 
was  no  manual,  no  outline  of  study,  no  help  of  any 
kind.  These  leaders  were  wholly  dependent  on  their 
Bibles  for  material,  and  on  their  memories  for  collect- 
ing the  helps.  Native  custom  did  not  allow  them  to  go 
outside  and  invite  the  women  to  come  in  to  their  meet- 
ing, but  invitations  were  sent  out  through  the  children 
who  came  to  school  from  their  own  homes.  Often  the 
schoolroom  was  filled  with  women  at  the  time  of  these 
meetings,  and  Bible  readings  prepared  by  the  young 
leaders  themselves  were  given  with  clearness  and  con- 
vincing power. 

The  attendance  increased  quite  rapidly,  since  in  our 
new  fjuarters  there  was  room  for  all  who  came.  In  a 
short  time,  we  had  an  enrollment  of  seventy  pupils, 
forty  of  whom  lived  in  the  home.  I  now  had  two 
Chinese  assistants,  and  a  woman  to  do  the  cooking  for 
the  students  in  the  home  and  look  after  the  care  of 
the  place. 

There  was  much  to  encourage  us  in  the  progress  of 
our  pupils,  but  at  times  we  were  sorely  disappointed. 


60 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


Early  in  our  experience,  a  very  bright,  energetic  girl 
of  fourteen  years  came  into  the  school.  She  made 
wonderful  progress  in  her  studies,  and  her  heart  was 
evidently  opening  to  impressions  of  the  gospel.     She 


A  RESCUED  CHINESE  BABY  OUTCAST  AND  HER  AMERICAN 
FOSTER  SISTER 


» 


BETHEL  GIRLS'  SCHOOL  61 

hoped  to  become  a  teacher,  and  we  too  entertained  the 
hope  that  she  might  be  truly  converted  and  become  a 
Christian  teacher. 

About  the  middle  of  the  second  year,  she  dropped 
out  of  school.  I  went  to  visit  at  her  home,  but  no 
satisfactory  explanation  of  her  course  was  given. 
Soon  afterward  her  chum,  who  entered  school  the  same 
time  with  her,  hinted  that  she  suspected  her  friend 
was  soon  to  be  married.  I  called  again,  but  with  no 
better  results.  Soon  I  received  an  invitation  to  be 
among  the  intimate  friends  who  should  spend  with  her 
the  last  few  hours  under  the  parental  roof.  At  the  end, 
I  saw  her  carried  away  amid  the  bitterest  weeping,  to 
become  the  plural  wife  of  a  man  several  times  her  own 
age,  and  whom  she  had  never  seen. 

At  another  time,  we  heard  it  rumored  that  a  wealthy 
family  who  had  been  keeping  a  slave  girl  in  the  school 
had  suddenly  met  with  a  reverse  of  circumstances, 
and  that  it  would  probably  be  necessary  for  them  to 
sell  their  slaves  in  order  to  pay  their  debts.  A'Mui 
was  a  handsome  girl  of  about  twelve  years,  just 
blooming  into  youth,  and  naturally  keen  and  bright. 
She  was  a  firm  little  Christian  so  far  as  her  experience 
had  gone.  We  made  an  appeal  for  money  to  purchase 
her  freedom.  One  hundred  or  more  United  States 
dollars  would  be  required.  Several  favorable  responses 
were  made,  and  money  was  on  the  way  —  money  given 
by  the  Sabbath  schools  of  Oregon  —  to  set  A'Mui  free. 

I  went  to  the  hou.se.  I  had  been  calling  frequently 
of  late,  trying  to  clear  the  way  for  the  deal  in  human 
life,  which  I  was  earne.stly  hoping  might  come  through 
successfully.  Imagine  my  feelings  when  I  saw  the 
doors  closed,  fixed  with  an  official  seal,  and  an  officer  of 


62  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

the  law  on  guard.  A  neighbor  woman  explained  how, 
two  days  before,  a  foreclosure  had  been  made,  and  the 
house  and  all  it  contained  of  furniture,  concubines, 
and  slaves  had  been  seized  for  debt.  But  that  night, 
with  police  guarding  the  door  in  front,  the  women  of 
the  house  —  those  gay,  frivolous  women  with  bound 
feet,  whom  I  had  thought  so  helpless  —  had  crept  out 
and  climbed  up  the  carved  ladders  to  the  roof.  By  the 
aid  of  their  servants,  they  crawled  from  housetop  to 
housetop,  carrying  their  clothes  in  bundles  on  their 
backs,  and  made  their  escape  out  through  the  streets 
of  the  city  to  no  one  knew  where.  A'Mui  had  gone 
with  them. 

HER  FIRST  STORY  AND  ITS  EFFECT 

The  first  mature  woman  to  enroll  in  Bethel  School 
stated  frankly  that  her  purpose  was  to  learn  to  read, 
so  that  she  might  be  able  to  entertain  herself  reading 
novels.  We  showed  her  a  book  that  contained  a  very 
interesting  story,  and  told  her  she  might  begin  her 
study  reading  this  story  if  she  liked.  The  book  was 
the  Gospel  According  to  Luke.  She  applied  herself 
diligently,  and  became  intensely  interested;  but  being 
unable  to  get  on  fast  enough  by  herself,  she  put  every 
one  under  tribute  to  her  object.  At  one  time,  it  was 
to  tell  the  name  of  a  character  she  had  forgotten,  or 
to  explain  its  meaning.  At  another  time,  she  asked  to 
have  the  passage  read  and  explained,  so  that  she  might 
get  the  connection,  and  understand  the  story  she  was 
so  anxious  to  hear.  By  the  time  she  had  finished  Luke, 
the  Scriptures  had  become  so  satisfying  to  her  hungry 
soul,  that  she  had  no  desire  for  novels.  She  was  truly 
converted,  loosed  her  bound  feet,  and  became  a  very 


BETHEL  GIRLS'  SCHOOL  63 

effective  help  in  the  management  of  the  school.  Later 
she  became  an  active  worker  for  the  Lord  as  a  Bible 
woman. 

"ANNA  IN   BETHEL   SCHOOL" 

One  old  woman  came  to  the  school  after  sixty  years 
in  heathenism.  Her  hair  was  white.  No  one  thought 
she  could  learn  to  read,  or  that  there  was  much  hope 
of  her  becoming  a  Christian.  She  was  a  confirmed 
tobacco  user,  and  continued  to  practice  the  habit 
secretly,  although  she  knew  it  to  be  contrary  to  the 
rules. 

One  day  this  old  woman  sat  in  the  schoolroom  read- 
ing: "There  was  one  Anna:  .  .  .  she  was  of  a  great 
age,  .  .  .  which  departed  not  from  the  temple,  but 
served  God  with  fastings  and  prayers  night  and  day. 
And  she  coming  in  that  instant  gave  thanks  likewise 
unto  the  Lord,  and  spake  of  Him  to  all  them  that  looked 
for  redemption  in  Jerusalem." 

Tears  filled  her  eyes  as  she  read.  She  stopped,  and 
cried  aloud:  "0  Miss,  I  will  give  up  my  evil  habit!  I 
will  be  Anna  in  Bethel  School!" 

The  change  had  come,  for  light  had  shone  into  and 
illuminated  her  darkened  soul.  The  remainder  of  her 
life  was  dedicated  to  loving  service  to  Him  who  had 
unloosed  her  bonds. 

"The  world's  great  heart  is  aching,  aching  fiercely  in  the 
night; 

And  God  alone  can  heal  it,  and  God  alone  give  light; 

And  the  men  to  bear  the  message  and  to  preach  the  liv- 
ing Word, 

Are  you  and  I,  my  brothers,  and  all  others  that  have 
heard." 


Through  the  Paddy  Fields 

(Extracts  from  the  Diary  of  a  Mitisionai-y  in  China) 

C.    P.    LiLI.IK 

November  18,  1913 

After  months  of  steady  routine  work  at  the  station, 
it  seems  good  to  be  on  the  road  again.  Evangelist 
Hwang  and  I  left  Changsha  this  morning  by  rail,  ar- 
riving at  Giu  Djou,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  li  (about 
thirty-three  English  miles),  by  nine  o'clock. 

To  those  in  the  homeland,  it  may  still  seem  strange 
to  associate  railroads  with  China.  And  again,  travel- 
ing by  rail  may  seem  too  pleasant  and  easy  to  be  a  real 
foreign  missionary  experience.  Well,  things  in  China 
aren't  all  hard  and  uncomfortable;  far  from  it.  The 
principal  reason,  however,  that  we  enjoy  the  train,  is 
because  it  saves  so  much  time.  Though  really  not  very 
fast,  it  is  quite  swift  compared  with  Chinese  convey- 
ances. That  brief  hour  or  two  on  the  train  this  morn- 
ing saves  us  a  full  day's  time. 

Railroads  are  playing  such  a  big  part  in  the  proph- 
ecy, "Many  shall  run  to  and  fro,  and  knowledge  shall 
be  increased" !  Ostensibly  they  are  built  here  in  China 
for  commercial  purposes;  but  we  know  that  deeper 
than  the  plans  of  men  are  the  purposes  of  our  God. 
He  is  providing  facilities,  in  the  great  heathen  lands, 
for  the  rapid  spread  of  the  message.  I  hope  that 
Hunan's  hundreds  of  miles  of  railroad  will  speedily 
become  thousands. 

This  was  my  first  train  ride  but  one  since  we  landed 

in  China,  just  two  years  ago  to-day.     Our  train  sped 

through  paddy   (rice)  fields,  by  big  burying  grounds, 

past  quaint  temples  and  shrines,  past  big  farmhouses, 

(64) 


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(65) 


66  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

past  little  villages  of  mud-built  huts.  It  was  very 
interesting.  The  hills  are  beautifully  green  yet,  for 
winter  comes  late  in  Hunan;  but  the  foliage  of  the 
trees  is  beginning  to  take  on  the  tints  of  autumn. 

Luncheon,  consisting  of  a  big  bowl  of  rice,  was 
served  by  the  trainmen  to  all  who  cared  for  it.  When 
all  who  chose  to  do  so  had  eaten,  the  attendants  brought 
hot  towels,  so  that  all  could  mop  their  faces  after  their 
meal.  This  is  according  to  Chinese  custom.  Nearly 
every  one,  whether  partaking  of  the  rice  or  not, 
accepted  a  towel.  These  towels  were  wrung  out  of 
steaming  hot  water  and  handed  out.  Having  been 
used,  they  were  plunged  into  the  water  again,  wrung 
out,  and  handed  to  other  guests.  In  this  way,  several 
tens  of  people  were  quickly  served  with  three  or  four 
towels  and  a  single  bucket  of  water.  We  refrain  from 
commenting  upon  the  complexion  and  odor  of  the 
towels. 

We  stopped  in  Giu  Djou,  a  town  on  the  Hsiang 
Kiang,  only  long  enough  to  secure  passage  on  a  boat 
bound  for  Heng  Shan.  This  boat  had  brought  down 
a  load  of  coal  to  Changsha,  and  the  owner  was  glad 
enough  to  take  some  passengers  on  his  way  back.  The 
craft  is  about  thirty  feet  long  by  six  feet  wide,  with 
a  hold  two  and  a  half  feet  in  depth.  The  middle  part 
is  roofed  with  a  bamboo  frame  covered  with  bamboo 
matting,  and  provides  lodging  accommodations  for  the 
boatman  and  his  family,  his  two  helpers,  and  the  pas- 
sengers. Besides  Hwang  and  me,  there  is  one  other 
passenger,  a  Chinese. 

We  wanted  to  start  immediately;  and  as  there  was 
no  wind,  the  boat  helpers  commenced  "tracking" ;  that 
is,  pulling  the  boat  along  the  shore  by  means  of  a  long 


LUNG  WHA  PAGODA,  TEN   MILES  FROM   SHANGHAI 

(67) 


68  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

rope  tied  to  the  mast.  By  noon,  some  of  the  food  that 
I  had  brought  from  home  was  much  appreciated. 

At  a  little  place  named  Lo  Kou,  the  master  of  the 
boat  went  ashore  to  buy  rice;  so  I  was  glad  to  leave 
my  cramped  quarters,  and  disembark  on  the  back  of 
a  boatman. 

I  entered  the  village  temple,  that  being  the  most 
interesting  thing  in  sight.  Like  most  such  places,  it 
was  dark  and  dingy  inside,  and  the  images  looked 
commonplace.  My  attention  was  especially  attracted 
by  some  bits  of  wood,  polished  smooth  on  one  side  and 
carved  on  the  other,  that  were  lying  before  the  altar. 
Da  gua  they  are  called. 

If  any  of  the  village  people  have  a  request  to  make 
of  the  god,  they  come  and  use  da  gua.  After  rattling 
off  a  petition,  they  throw  two  of  the  wooden  bits  to  the 
ground.  If  both  fall  and  remain  face  down,  the  sup- 
pliant tries  again;  for  the  answer  is  unfavorable.  If 
both  faces  are  up,  the  answer  is  not  very  good ;  so  the 
worshiper  usually  keeps  trying  until  he  gets  one  face 
up  and  one  face  down.    Then  he  departs  satisfied. 

One  of  the  boat  master's  children  was  sick  to-day. 
I  didn't  know  what  the  trouble  was,  so  I  didn't  offer 
any  assistance,  but  I  was  interested  in  the  treatment 
given.  This  method,  carrying  out  the  principle  of 
counterirritation,  is  very  common  in  China.  Some- 
times it  seems  to  give  relief. 

The  mother  rubbed  the  baby's  back  with  moistened 
hand,  then  began  to  nip  the  tender  skin  sharply  be- 
tween the  first  and  second  fingers.  She  nipped  in  one 
place  until  there  was  an  ugly  red  mark  there,  keeping 
on  till  she  had  a  row  of  such  marks  across  the  child's 
back,  then  across  the  abdomen  the  same.     The  treat- 


THROUGH   THE  PADDY  FIELDS  69 

ment  took  some  time,  the  little  one  crying  piteously 
all  the  time.  If  any  one  thinks  it  doesn't  hurt,  let  him 
try  it.  At  home,  it  would  look  quite  heroic,  if  it  was 
necessary  for  a  mother  to  administer  such  a  vigorous 
remedy;  but  this  mother  was  apparently  unconcerned. 
Poor  baby,  he  will  carry  those  marks  for  days ! 

I  have  worked  nearly  all  day  with  Chinese  diction- 
ary and  notebook,  pestering  my  traveling  companion 
with  questions  about  this  Chinese  expression  and  that, 
and  getting  him  to  write  the  characters.  The  best 
way,  however,  to  learn  the  spoken  Chinese,  is  just  to 
be  thrown  into  the  society  of  the  people  day  after  day, 
and  mimic  their  talk  continually.  In  this  way,  one's 
talk  comes  to  have  the  Chinese  accent,  or  what  the 
Chinese  call  wei  dzi  (flavor). 

These  boatmen  had  never  seen  a  foreign  lead  pencil 
before,  and  thought  mine  very  wonderful.  When  I 
used  an  eraser,  their  admiration  was  unbounded.  You 
see,  the  Chinese  use  a  brush  with  which  to  write  their 
characters.  They  have  no  erasers.  They  are  very 
clever,  however,  at  making  over  characters  they  have 
written  incorrectly.  It  seems  to  be  quite  a  common 
trait  here  in  China,  "fixing  up"  things  so  they  will 
pass.  However,  this  same  trait  is  not  uncommon  in 
other  lands,  America  not  excepted. 

November  19 

We  anchored  with  other  boats  last  night  at  San  Men 
Tan,  so  named  because  there  are  three  channels  in  the 
river  at  that  place.  These  river  boats  do  not  travel 
very  much  \)\  night,  and  they  usually  anchor  in  groups 
for  mutual  protection. 

I  made  my  bed  by  spreading  one  quilt  on  the  floor 
for  a  mattress,  and  two  more  for  covering.    The  floor 


70  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

was  uneven,  and  I  missed  my  comfortable  mattress 
at  home.  I  left  my  camp  cot  at  home  this  time,  be- 
cause I  can't  sleep  warm  on  it  in  cold  weather.  My 
fellow  passengers  rolled  up  in  their  heavy  padded 
quilts,  covered  up  their  heads,  and  went  soundly  to 
sleep. 

It  was  so  foggy  early  this  morning  that  we  could 
not  see  the  men  who  were  pulling  the  boat;  but  the 
fog  lifted  about  nine  o'clock,  and  we  are  having  a 
beautiful  day,  but  no  favoring  wind  to  speak  of. 

Boats  of  this  size  have  two  or  three  helpers.  The 
master  of  the  boat  steers.  The  rope  by  which  the 
boat  is  pulled  along  is  about  three  hundred  feet  in 
length.  When  the  men  decide  to  pull  the  boat  instead 
of  pushing  it  with  poles,  they  pole  the  boat  vigorously 
for  a  few  minutes,  then  scramble  out,  hastily  play  out 
the  ropes,  and  get  to  pulling,  if  the  current  is  not  too 
swift,  before  the  boat  loses  its  momentum.  It  is  an 
interesting  operation  to  watch.  To  make  the  work 
easier,  they  attach  cloth  bands  to  the  rope,  which  they 
throw  over  the  shoulder.  The  men  do  their  work  with- 
out much  apparent  effort,  save  that  shown  by  the  for- 
ward incline  of  their  bodies.  I  suppose  it  is  hard 
enough. 

One  of  the  first  things  I  saw  this  morning  was  an 
immense  raft  of  logs,  on  its  way  to  market.  These 
drift  down  the  river  hundreds  of  miles.  They  are 
steered  by  means  of  a  huge  oar  at  either  end.  Some 
of  these  rafts  are  so  large  that  many  men  are  needed 
to  steer.  They  build  houses  upon  the  rafts,  in  which 
to  live  during  the  trip.  If  the  cargo  is  bamboo  poles, 
they  usually  employ  themselves  splitting  some  of  them, 
and  making  bamboo  cables  and  other  things  for  the 


(71) 


72  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

market,  so  as  not  to  lose  any  time.  It  looks  rather 
startling  to  see  logs  enough  to  make  a  good-sized  vil- 
lage floating  down  the  river,  with  houses  upon  them, 
and  men  and  dogs  moving  about  and  acting  as  if  they 
had  always  lived  there. 

By  and  by  my  companions  got  up  and  made  their 
toilet  for  the  day.  This  means,  first,  a  noisy  rinsing 
of  the  mouth  with  water  from  the  hand  basin;  then  a 
tongue  scraper  vigorously  used;  then  the  face  mopped 
with  a  hot  towel.  (The  Chinese  do  not  use  dry  towels, 
as  Westerners  do.)  The  boatmen's  breakfast  followed. 
I  ate  home  food,  having  brought  enough  for  several 
meals. 

When  the  boatmen  anchored  the  boat  to  eat,  I  went 
ashore,  and  walked  about  to  get  warm,  for  the  morn- 
ing was  chilly.  I  gathered  some  of  the  wild  chrysan- 
themums that  grew  in  profusion  on  the  banks.  I  took 
a  turn  to-day  poling  the  boat,  and  found  it  warm  work. 

One  thing  about  these  Chinese  boats  is  pleasing. 
They  are  very  clean.  Strange  that  in  China,  where 
many  of  the  houses  are  unspeakably  dirty,  these  ig- 
norant boatmen  take  great  pride  in  keeping  their  boats 
scrupulously  clean! 

We  have  seen  many  fishing  boats  to-day,  the  men 
not  using  hook  and  line,  but  nets.  I  often  think,  when 
I  see  these  simple  fishermen  mending  their  nets,  or 
letting  them  down  for  a  draught,  of  our  dear  Saviour 
and  His  association  with  the  fishermen  of  Galilee. 

I  am  getting  better  acquainted  with  the  boat  family 
to-day.  It  consists  of  a  man  and  his  wife,  their  two 
plump  little  children,  and  two  helpers.  The  men  are 
all  very  approachable.  I  don't  understand  their  talk 
very  well;  but  notwithstanding,  we  have  had  a  so- 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  73 

ciable  time.  One  can  get  along  without  talking  much. 
For  instance,  I  asked  the  boat  master  how  old  he  wa.s, 
and  he  merely  held  up  four  fingers.  That  meant,  of 
course,  that  he  was  forty  years  of  age. 

The  prow  of  the  boat  is  the  family  altar.  It  can 
properly  be  called  such,  for  it  is  the  only  place  on  the 
boat  where  they  worship.  This  family  have  no  images 
on  board.  They  say  that  their  god  is  ivuh  so  bah  dzai 
dy  (omnipresent)  ;  so  they  don't  need  his  image.  How- 
ever, their  patron  saint  (the  river  god)  is  to  be  found 
in  some  of  the  large  temples.  At  Nan  Yueh,  I  know, 
special  devotional  services  are  held  at  times  to  secure 
his  favor.  I  have  asked  Hwang  to  show  me  this  par- 
ticular god  when  we  get  to  a  temple  where  they 
have  him. 

November  20 

This  morning,  I  tried  pulling  on  the  rope,  and  found 
it  a  leg-aching  business.  It  is  not  such  tame  work, 
either,  as  it  looks  from  the  boat.  There  are  high  bluffs 
here;  and  once  when  the  man  at  the  helm  suddenly 
changed  the  course  of  the  boat,  to  avoid  running  into 
a  sand  bank  or  a  rock,  I  narrowly  escaped  being  pulled 
over  the  bank.  This  would  have  meant  a  tumble  of 
twenty  or  thirty  feet.  By  and  by  we  arrived  at  a  deep 
gorge.  I  wondered  how  in  the  world  I  was  ever  to  get 
over  that  si.x-inch-wide  teetery  pole  bridge,  and  pull  on 
the  rope  at  the  same  time.  The  man  for  whom  I  was 
substituting,  seeing  my  embarrassment,  seized  the 
rope  and  tripped  blithely  over  on  his  bare  feet.  As  for 
me,  crossing  that  little  ravine,  figuratively  speaking, 
made  my  hair  stand  on  end. 

The  fall  planting  seems  to  be  about  done.  The  peas 
and  the  hardy,  frost-proof  beans  are  already  two  or 


74  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

three  inches  high,  and  will  mature  early  in  the  spring. 
The  turnips  now  coming  up  will  be  in  market  before 
spring.  The  buckwheat  is  yet  unharvested,  also  some 
late  tobacco. 

We  feared  that  when  we  came  to  China,  all  the  old 
familiar  plants  and  flowers  must  be  sacrificed,  and  that 
with  China's  teeming  millions,  there  would  not  be  room 
enough  for  many  flowers  to  grow.  But  God  is  not  so 
partial  to  us  Western  people  as  that.  How  happy  we 
were  one  day  to  find  some  dear  homely  dandelion  faces 
smiling  up  at  us  in  an  old  temple  yard !  Strange  sur- 
roundings, it  seems,  for  our  old  friends!  There  are 
dainty  wild  roses  in  the  country  in  the  spring,  pink 
ones  and  white.  One  variety  blooms  in  great  fragrant 
white  clusters.  I  saw  them  last  spring  trailing  from 
a  tree  top,  thirty  feet  from  the  ground.  I  gathered 
fall  asters  this  morning,  just  such  as  we  gather  by 
the  roadsides  in  America ;  and  tea  flowers,  large,  white, 
and  sweet.  The  tea  plant  blooms  in  the  late  fall;  and 
the  seeds  (which,  by  the  way,  have  no  commercial 
value)  grow  during  winter,  and  mature  in  the  spring. 
Isn't  that  odd? 

Tea  leaves  are  picked  two  or  three  times  during  the 
spring  and  summer,  and  cured  for  market.  There  are 
no  tea  plantations  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of 
Changsha ;  so  we  have  not  had  an  opportunity  to  watch 
this  interesting  procedure. 

To-day  I  asked  my  fellow  passengers  what  methods 
the  Chinese  have  of  preparing  the  leaves  for  market, 
and  I  will  jot  down  the  gist  of  what  they  said.  Some 
parts  of  their  description  certainly  would  not  lead  me 
to  crave  tea  as  a  beverage. 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  75 

The  tea  leaves  are  picked  by  women,  and  thrown 
into  big  baskets.  In  their  haste,  however,  some  of  the 
leaves  miss  the  basket,  and  fall  to  the  ground,  and 
often  are  not  gathered  up  until  evening.  In  the  mean- 
time, these  leaves  form  a  carpet  for  the  playground  of 
naked  children,  and  babies  whom  the  mothers  cannot 
leave  at  home,  and  numerous  dogs. 

The  tea  leaves  thus  gathered  are  placed  in  big 
earthen  jars  several  feet  in  diameter  and  about  three 
feet  deep.  Then  a  man  gets  in  and  treads  the  leaves 
with  his  bare  feet  until  the  juice  begins  to  flow  a  little. 
(This  is  one  of  the  tasks  that  the  women  escape,  be- 
cause of  their  small  bound  feet.)  The  leaves  are 
tramped  down  hard,  covered  over  with  any  old  clothes 
and  bedding  available,  and  left  to  heat.  This  may  take 
six  hours  or  thereabouts.  If  they  fear  that  the  color 
will  not  be  good  —  perhaps  a  bit  yellow  —  they  some- 
times scrape  the  soot  from  the  bottom  of  their  kitchen 
utensils,  and  mix  with  the  leaves  as  they  are  tramped. 

The  tea,  so  far  prepared  by  the  country  folk,  is  now 
bought  up  by  agents,  and  goes  through  other  processes 
before  it  is  ready  for  market.  It  is  dried  over  a  coal 
fire;  put  through  sieves  to  sort  into  different  grades; 
winnowed  to  free  from  dirt;  dried  some  more;  then  it 
is  packed  into  boxes  for  the  foreign  market. 

There  was  a  fine  wind  during  the  middle  of  the  day. 
which  died  away  toward  night.  However,  by  dint  of 
pushing  and  pulling,  we  arrived  at  Heng  Shan  at  twi- 
light. The  next  thing  to  do  was  to  tip  the  boatmen. 
The  tipping  system  is  well  rooted  here  in  China.  The 
tip  is  called  wine  money  or  tea  money.  If  you  should 
ever  travel  in  China,  you  would  have  no  occasion  to 
worry  lest  you  forget  and  leave  a  place  without  tip- 


76 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


ping  the  "help."  You  will  be  saved  that  embarrass- 
ment. The  men  on  our  boat  began  talking  wine  money 
before  we  had  arrived;  and  when  I  gave  them  what 
Hwang  said  was  about  right,  they  made  a  great  fuss. 
If  I  had  paid  them  double,  their  complaint  would  have 
been  proportionately  louder,  as  they  would  have  de- 
cided that  I  was  an  "easy  mark."  By  adding  a  few 
coppers  little  by  little  (of  course,  Hwang  had  planned 
for  all  this  when  he  told  me  how  much  to  give  them), 
we  finally  got  away.  Calling  a  man  to  carry  our  lug- 
gage, we  entered  one  of  the  gates  of  the  old  city  of 
Heng  Shan. 

In  America,  what  makes  a  city  is  the  population  and 
the  form  of  government.    In  China,  strictly  speaking, 


NANKINO  WALL  AND  TAIPING   GATE 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  77 

only  a  populated  place  that  has  a  wall  about  it  may 
be  called  a  city. 

Heng  Shan  is  a  city.  Judging  from  the  appearance 
of  the  wall  that  surrounds  it,  it  is  very  old.  No  doubt 
this  wall  was  built  long  before  Columbus  discovered 
America,  perhaps  a  millennium  before.  It  is  made  of 
stone  and  brick,  is  about  fifteen  feet  high  and  ten  feet 
wide,  and  has  six  gates. 

The  name  of  our  young  evangelist  at  this  place  is 
Kwang.  We  have  three  canvassers  here  also.  Just 
now  one  of  our  older  preachers  (Evangelist  Li)  is  here 
arranging  for  the  repairing  of  a  newly  rented  chapel, 
so  he  is  to  be  our  host  at  this  place.  Fat  and  jovial, 
with  loosely  fitting  robe,  round  cap,  and  closely  cropped 
hair,  he  appears  the  typical  medieval  friar.  Mr.  Li  is 
the  only  evangelist  we  have  here  in  Hunan  who  pos- 
sesses any  considerable  means,  and  he  entertains  lav- 
ishly. I  am  jotting  down  some  of  the  things  that  were 
served  for  the  evening  meal:  vermicelli,  eggs,  fish, 
oranges,  peanuts,  melon  seeds,  sweetmeats,  etc.  The 
meal  was  well  prepared,  and  we  ate  heartily.  The 
Mandarin  term  for  eating  heartily  is  chi  bao  liao  (eat 
to  repletion).  As  the  Chinese  use  it,  it  is  no  empty 
phrase. 

After  supper,  we  had  a  meeting,  which  was  attended 
by  all  our  believer.s  living  in  the  city.  All  listened 
attentively  to  the  Word  of  God. 

One  of  our  Heng  Shan  church  members  has  died 
since  I  was  here  before.  He  was  a  dear  old  man.  It 
was  my  blessed  privilege  to  baptize  him.  Although 
.so  feeble  that  he  could  barely  stand,  he  entered  the 
water  courageously,  and  emerged  from  it  shouting: 
"A-li-lu-ya!     A-li-lu-ya!"     I  am  confident  that  he  will 


78  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

come  up  triumphant  in  the  first  resurrection.  It  re- 
joices our  hearts  to  see  old  Chinese  men  and  women 
accepting  this  message.  At  our  spring  meeting, 
Pastor  Cottrell  baptized  an  old  woman  about  eighty 
years  old,  who  had  recently  accepted  Jesus  as  her  Sav- 
iour. Her  son  bore  her  down  to  the  water's  edge  upon 
his  back,  for  the  bank  was  steep.  It  was  a  touching 
sight. 

Another  church  member  here  is  quite  old,  and  lives 
in  wretched  circumstances;  in  fact,  she  has  barely 
enough  to  eat  to  "keep  soul  and  body  together."  This 
sister  lives  in  a  house  that  is  hardly  fit  for  American 
pigs.  The  gospel  is  her  all.  Sometimes  she  shows  her 
respect  to  the  pastor  when  he  visits  Heng  Shan,  by 
bringing  him  a  little  present.  When  such  a  poor  crea- 
ture brings  me  a  handkerchief  full  of  eggs,  or  some 
other  little  gift,  it  makes  me  feel  somewhat  as  David 
felt  when  his  brave  soldiers  brought  him  water  from 
the  well  of  Bethlehem.     It  is  almost  too  sacred  to  use. 

November  21 

Last  night,  with  a  little  straw  under  my  bedding,  I 
slept  fairly  well;  and  I  got  up  this  morning  in  fine 
trim  for  a  busy  day.  My  room  has  a  wooden  floor  and 
a  good  table,  so  I  am  quite  luxuriously  housed. 

I  spent  much  of  the  forenoon  talking  with  our 
church  members  and  workers  in  this  place.  One  of 
them  has  recently  received  papers  to  sell,  and  is  doing 
well.  He  is  working  with  a  spirit  that  will  win  souls 
to  Christ.  A  year  ago  he  was  making  much  trouble 
for  our  evangelist  here ;  but  after  a  time,  this  message 
got  hold  of  his  heart,  and  every  one  testifies  that  he 
is  a  changed  man.  As  I  listened  to  him  this  morning, 
telling  of  his  experience,   and   looked  down   into  his 


(79) 


80  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

beaming  face,  I  felt  more  confidence  than  ever  in  the 
transforming  power  of  the  gospel. 

A  big  funeral  procession  passed  by  the  chapel  this 
morning,  escorted  by  bands  of  Chinese  music.  The 
immense  coffin  was  borne  by  scores  of  men,  coolies 
called  for  the  occasion.  In  addition  to  the  music,  the 
affair  was  further  enlivened  by  a  continual  roar  of 
firecrackers.  Following  the  coffin  were  the  mourners, 
those  of  more  means  riding  in  chairs,  the  others  strag- 
gling along  behind  on  foot.  All  were  draped  in  coarse 
white  cloth,  and  there  was  much  wailing  and  a  great 
display  of  handkerchiefs  on  the  part  of  the  women. 

As  I  stated  before,  Heng  Shan  is  an  old,  old  city. 
It  has  some  good  shops,  but  on  the  whole  is  rather 
squalid,  with  narrow,  roughly  paved  streets,  and  a 
superabundance  of  ill  fed  dogs.  I  am  almost  tempted 
to  wish  that  the  people  of  Heng  Shan  were  as  fond  of 
dog  meat  as  are  those  in  some  other  places  in  China; 
then  perhaps  there  would  not  be  so  many  of  the  crea- 
tures in  evidence.  A  few  months  ago  I  was  walking 
outside  of  this  city,  and  came  upon  a  frail  little  box, 
which  had  been  dug  out  of  a  fresh  mound  of  earth. 
It  had  been  broken  open  and  was  empty.  I  turned  to 
the  nearest  Chinese  questioningly.  "Gou  cha  liao,"  he 
remarked  in  a  matter-of-fact  way.  Gou  cha  liao  — 
the  dogs  have  eaten!  Sometimes  the  little  ones  are 
not  buried  at  all  —  simply  thrown  out  for  the  dogs  to 
devour. 

There  is  a  good  market  here.  Food  is  plentiful  and 
cheap.  Eggs  can  be  bought  for  nine  cash  each.  At 
the  present  rate  of  exchange,  that  would  amount  to 
about  four  cents  a  dozen,  American  money.  I  wish 
some  of  my  friends  in  America  could  buy  eggs  in  Heng 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  81 

Shan.  Peanuts  can  be  purchased  at  two  or  three  cents 
(gold)  a  pound.  Seven  or  eight  cents  will  buy  a  fine 
umbrella.  Of  course,  it  is  not  such  an  umbrella  as 
would  be  counted  stylish  in  England  or  America.  It 
opens  up  flat,  and  is  made  of  bamboo  and  oiled  paper. 
These  umbrellas  are  painted  red  or  blue  or  green,  and 
present  a  gay  appearance.  With  good  care,  they  will 
last  a  long  time. 

This  afternoon,  we  made  a  formal  call  on  an  official 
who  has  been  very  kind  to  us.  Among  other  things, 
it  is  his  duty  to  look  after  the  welfare  of  foreigners. 
We  also  called  on  a  Baptist  missionary  who  was  a 
fellow  passenger  on  the  "Chiyo  Maru"  when  we  came 
to  China.  He  greeted  us  courteously,  and  we  passed  a 
pleasant  hour  together.  We  plan  to  have  another  meet- 
ing this  evening. 

November  22 

This  has  been  a  happy  Sabbath  day.  Three  men 
followed  the  INIaster  in  the  ordinance  of  baptism.  We 
have  had  practically  an  all-day  meeting.  In  the 
morning  meeting,  Hwang  presented  the  subject  of 
baptism  in  a  clear,  convincing  way.  The  Lord  is 
especially  raising  up  men  in  these  heathen  lands  to  be 
leaders  of  their  own  people  in  proclaiming  the  last 
me.ssage  —  men  of  ability  and  consecration.  Hwang 
is  one  of  these.  Seven  years  ago  he  was  under  the 
bonds  of  heathenism.  His  text  this  morning  was  John 
;?:  1-8;  and  I  have  jotted  down  the  substance  of  what 
he  said  in  his  discourse: 

"NicodemuH  was  a  man  who  had  watched  Jesus,  and 
become  convinced  that  He  was  the  Son  of  God.  He  had 
made  this  start  toward  being  a  Christian,  but  he 
needed  repentance.     Jesus  told  him  that  he  must  be 


82  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

born  again, —  born  of  water  and  of  the  Spirit;  and  he 
marveled  greatly. 

"What  does  it  mean  to  be  born  of  water  and  the 
Spirit?  Please  read  Matt.  3:  16.  As  John  was  preach- 
ing the  gospel  of  repentance  and  baptizing,  Jesus 
came;  and  He  too  was  baptized  with  water.  When 
Jesus  came  up  out  of  the  water,  the  Spirit  of  God 
rested  upon  Him.  As  the  Spirit  of  God  rested  upon 
Him,  so  it  will  rest  upon  every  one  who  comes  from 
the  water  to  live  a  new  life  in  Christ  Jesus. 

"A  preparation  for  baptism  is  necessary.  There 
must  be  confession,  and  a  turning  away  from  sin. 
Ps.  32:  1-5.  If  we  confess  our  sins,  God  is  faithful 
and  willing  to  forgive.  Let  us  study  carefully  the 
two  words  hivei  and  gai.  [Hwei  gai  is  the  Mandarin 
expression  meaning  repentance;  hwei  means  regret, 
gai  means  to  reform.]  The  mouth  may  say  the  words 
hwei  gai  without  the  heart's  experiencing  real  repent- 
ance. It  is  not  enough  simply  to  hwei,  but  one  must 
gai.  It  is  not  enough  simply  to  deplore  one's  bad 
habits;  one  must  turn  over  a  new  leaf.  Going  down 
into  the  water  in  baptism,  is  immersion  of  the  body. 
Genuine  baptism  must  be  that  of  the  heart.  Is  it  not 
enough  to  confess  our  sins  and  forsake  them?  —  No; 
we  must  follow  the  example  that  Jesus  set. 

"After  Jesus'  death.  He  was  buried;  but  on  the 
third  day,  He  came  forth.  Baptism  is  a  type  of  that 
death,  burial,  and  resurrection.  We  ought  to  leave 
our  old  life  in  the  watery  grave. 

"Because  we  have  sinned,  we  ought  to  die.  God 
saw  us  in  the  bonds  of  sin,  and  sent  His  own  Son  to 
die  in  our  stead.    When  we  accept  Jesus,  our  old  sins 


BAPTISM    AT   LOHTSING,   KIANGCHE   MISSION,    1018 

(83) 


84  WITH   OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

are  nailed  to  the  cross.  If  we  sin  again,  we  crucify 
Jesus  afresh." 

Evangelist  Li  is  a  source  of  great  amusement  to  me. 
He  has  an  extraordinary  sense  of  humor  for  a  Chinese, 
is  very  eccentric,  and  does  many  unexpected  things. 
For  instance,  when  we  were  singing,  in  this  morning 
service,  Li  suddenly  stopped  to  rebuke  some  one  in  the 
audience  who  was  out  of  order,  then  started  in  again 
singing  where  he  left  off.  Of  course,  he  came  in  half 
a  bar  behind  the  rest  of  the  singers,  and  finished  the 
verse  accordingly.  However,  none  of  the  Chinese 
noticed. 

While  we  were  questioning  candidates  for  baptism 
to-day,  one  of  the  brethren  referred  to  another  brother 
as  lao  hu  clzi  —  old  whiskers.  (To  be  strictly  honest, 
I  should  put  a  comma  between  "old"  and  "whiskers.") 
In  America,  we  should  think  this  rather  rude;  but  in 
this  case,  the  speaker  was  very  respectful.  You  see, 
a  father  and  his  son  were  among  those  present.  The 
father  was  designated  as  lao  because  of  his  riper  years, 
and  as  a  hu  clzi  because  that  was  one  of  his  distin- 
guishing features.  Whiskers  are  comparatively  rare 
in   Hunan,   and   are   numbered   among   the   blessings. 

Our  testimony  service  to-day  was  excellent.  Follow- 
ing this  service,  we  observed  the  ordinance  of  feet 
washing,  and  partook  of  the  Lord's  Supper. 

The  baptismal  service  was  peaceful  and  quiet.  This 
service  always  calls  out  a  crowd  of  curious  spectators; 
but  to-day  they  were  quite  respectful,  and  I  think 
those  baptized  received  a  great  blessing. 

November  23 
This  has  been  another  day  marked  by  many  pleas- 
ant experiences.     I   received  an  odd  present  from  a 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS 


85 


Chinese  gentleman.  I  was  too  curious  about  the  toilet 
set  that  he  carried,  consisting  of  an  instrument  for 
scratching  the  ears,  an  ear  spoon,  and  a  toothpick,  all 
made  of  steel  and  attached  to  a  dainty  silver  chain ;  so 
he  insisted  on  giving  it  to  me.     Protestations  usually 


A  BARBER  PLYINC  HIH  TRADK  IN  THF,  STRKKT 


86  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

count  very  little  in  China,  in  such  a  case,  except  for 
politeness;  but  I  really  thought  he  wanted  me  to  have 
the  set,  so  finally  I  accepted  it.  The  most  interesting 
toilet  articles  in  China  are  the  back  scratchers,  con- 
sisting of  a  little  ivory  hand,  with  a  long  handle,  or 
a  narrow  strip  of  bamboo  curved  and  carved  at  one 
end  to  represent  a  hand. 

My  friends  at  home  would  be  amused  to  see  me 
using  a  Chinese  wooden  comb.  It  happened  that  after 
the  baptism  yesterday,  I  crawled  into  a  little  covered 
boat  to  put  on  some  dry  clothing,  and  left  my  comb  be- 
hind in  the  boat.    So  I  secured  the  only  thing  available. 

Li  made  a  feast  to-day  for  ten  of  his  friends,  in- 
cluding the  Baptist  missionary,  Hwang,  and  me.  The 
menu  included  beef,  fish,  goat  flesh,  and  chicken;  but 
there  was  also  celery,  bean  curd,  and  fruits,  so  I  got 
through  the  meal  without  violating  any  vegetarian 
principles,  and  had  a  plenty. 

I  am  attaining  some  little  knowledge  of  Chinese 
table  etiquette,  and  hence  can  dine  out  with  less  em- 
barrassment than  formerly. 

As  far  as  appearances  indicate,  there  is  no  endeavor 
in  China  to  get  the  highest  place  at  feasts.  Undoubt- 
edly the  higher  place  a  man  gets  at  table,  the  better 
pleased  he  is;  but  outwardly  he  makes  a  great  protest 
when  asked  to  "go  up  higher."  It  takes  some  time  to 
get  the  guests  seated.  When  a  person  has  finished 
eating,  he  holds  his  chopsticks  aloft,  or  waves  them 
about,  as  much  as  to  say,  "I  am  done;  please  excuse 
me."  Sometimes  he  says,  "Man  mau  dy  chih"  (eat 
slowly)  ;  and  the  other  guests  murmur,  "We  are  eat- 
ing a  good  deal."     This  done,  it  is  quite  proper  here 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  87 

for  one  who  has  finished  eating  to  leave  the  table 
One  by  one  the  guests  get  up  and  leave.    Of  course 


A  BAMBOO  KOKEST  WHERK  WILD  FLOWERS 


GROW  IN  ABUNDANCE 


88  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

Dinner  over,  we  set  out  into  the  country  to  visit 
some  inquirers,  and  first  called  on  Dr.  Liao.  He  lives 
in  a  rather  attractive  little  cottage,  approached 
through  a  bamboo  grove.  There  were  orange  trees 
in  the  yard,  and  shrubs  of  various  kinds.  The  doctor 
was  drying  herbs,  spread  out  on  mats  in  the  yard. 
The  cottage  itself,  though  very  humble,  looked  quite 
trim  and  tidy.  Walls  of  mud,  floor  of  mud,  thatch  of 
straw,  windows  of  paper, —  that  describes  most  Hu- 
nan country  houses. 

We  had  a  good  chat  with  the  doctor  brother,  who 
seems  not  to  be  so  much  of  a  quack  as  some  of  his 
fellow  practitioners.  From  what  I  have  heard,  I  am 
afraid  that  these  Chinese  physicians  are  a  bad  lot. 
Certain  it  is  that  the  ailing  Chinese  "suffer  many 
things  of  many  physicians" — and  so  patiently!  A 
Chinese  man  will  stand  and  have  a  needle  four  or  five 
inches  long  pushed  through  the  muscles  of  his  chest, 
up  to  the  needle  head,  and  not  flinch. 

Then  we  visited  a  young  man  who  is  much  perse- 
cuted by  his  family  because  his  godly  living  is  a  re- 
buke to  them.  After  that  we  visited  Brother  Liu,  who 
is  a  well-to-do  farmer,  and  has  a  big  family  of  grown 
sons.  These  have  all  married  and  settled  down  on  the 
old  farm,  but  none  of  them  are  Adventists.  They  en- 
tertained us  very  hospitably.  Brother  Liu  leaves  the 
management  of  the  farm  to  the  young  men,  and  is  one 
of  our  regular  canvassers.  He  canvasses  because  he 
loves  to  be  doing  the  Lord's  work.  We  stayed  until 
evening,  and  came  home  by  torchlight. 

November  24 
This  morning,  we  left  Heng  Shan,  pausing  first  at 
the  chapel  door,  and  with  bowed  heads  asking  for  a 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  89 

heavenly  benediction  to  rest  upon  our  brethren  and 
sisters  of  that  place,  and  for  God's  protecting  care  to 
be  over  us  in  our  journey.  I  left  Brother  Hwang  here, 
planning  to  join  him  later  at  Hen  Djou.  Li  accom- 
panied me  on  the  road  w^inding  through  the  paddy 
fields  to  Nan  Yueh. 

I  vi^alked,  and  Li  Vi^as  carried  in  a  chair,  much  to 
his  mental  discomfort.  He  is  so  stout  that  the  walk 
of  ten  miles  to  Nan  Yueh  was  more  than  he  could  well 
accomplish,  but  he  thought  that  it  didn't  look  well  for 
him  to  ride  and  the  pastor  to  walk.  I  always  walk 
short  distances,  partly  to  save  money  for  the  mission, 
and  partly  for  the  pure  love  of  walking,  both  of  which 
motives  are  mysterious  to  most  of  the  Chinese.  The 
heathen  Chinese  thinks  the  foreigner's  money  is  un- 
limited; and  to  walk  when  one  can  apparently  ride 
just  as  well  as  not,  is  very  amusing,  from  his  point  of 
view. 

The  Heng  Shan  official  has  insisted  that  a  soldier 
accompany  me  until  I  arrive  at  the  next  big  city,  not 
that  there  is  any  special  danger  on  the  road,  but  be- 
cause it  is  the  custom  at  this  place.  So  I  start  off 
with  a  big  soldier  at  my  back,  a  strapping  six-footer, 
armed  with  a  big  knife,  which  he  carries  in  a  sheath, — 
a  wicked  looking  thing  .two  feet  long,  and  about  four 
inches  wide  near  the  point. 

Two  of  the  young  men  from  Heng  Shan  escorted  me 
a  long  distance  on  my  way.  It  troubled  me  much  to 
have  them  hang  in  the  rear,  at  a  respectful  distance, 
like  servants.  They  insisted  on  keeping  away  behind, 
almost  beyond  speaking  distance. 

There  is  a  fairly  good  paved  road,  or  rather  path, 
leading  from  Heng  Shan  to  Nan  Yueh,  the  .stone  worn 


90  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

smooth  by  the  feet  of  travelers.  Inasmuch  as  horses 
are  very  little  used  in  this  part  of  China,  the  roads  are 
narrow,  and  the  paved  part  is  usually  just  wide  enough 
for  a  man  to  walk  in.  Sometimes  two  chairs,  meeting, 
have  great  difficulty  in  getting  by  each  other.  These 
path  roads  remind  me  of  a  remark  of  one  of  our  Chi- 
nese preachers.  Speaking  of  the  road  to  destruction, 
how  smooth  and  wide  it  is,  he  said  it  is  like  a  ma  lu 
(horse  road).  There  came  to  my  mind  memories  of 
some  of  the  horse  roads  over  which  I  have  traveled; 
and  doubtless  if  he  had  seen  them,  he  would  not  have 
used  the  expression  in  such  an  unqualified  sense.  But 
truly  the  Chinese  roads  are  often  narrow.  I  was 
greatly  amused  to  see  two  men  with  huge  hats  trying 
to  pass  each  other  to-day. 

The  most  interesting  things  on  this  road  are  the 
numerous  village  shrines.  One  of  these,  which  I  will 
briefly  describe,  is  perhaps  eight  feet  high  and  four 
feet  square,  and  is  well  made  of  brick.  The  front  is 
open.  Inside,  behind  a  vi'ooden  grate,  are  two  little 
wooden  idols.  Here  the  villagers  come  to  burn  paper 
and  incense.  This  particular  shrine  had  lately  been 
sprinkled  with  chicken's  blood,  and  then  some  of  the 
feathers  had  been  stuck  on.  I. asked  why  the  feathers 
were  used.  The  reasons  given  were  that  the  use  of 
feathers  greatly  honored  the  god ;  also,  as  the  feathers 
trusted  to  the  blood  in  order  to  adhere  to  the  shrine, 
so  the  worshipers  were  thereby  taught  to  trust  in  him, 
to  cling  to  him  for  help.  By  the  shrine  were  two  great 
stone  tablets.  One  was  erected  in  honor  of  those  who 
repaired  the  road  at  such  and  such  a  time,  with  a  long 
list  of  names  affixed;  the  other  was  a  warning  issued 


\ 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  91 

to  thieves  and  robbers  at  a  cjertain  time  not  to  prac- 
tice their  depredations  on  that  road. 

About  noon,  we  arrived  in  Nan  Yueh.  Nan  Yueh  is 
only  a  village,  nestling  down  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain 
range,  but  it  has  one  of  the  most  noted  temples  in 
China.  Truly  Nan  Yueh  is  Satan's  seat  for  this  sec- 
tion of  the  world.  From  the  eighth  to  the  tenth  month, 
the  roads  leading  hither  are  filled  with  long  columns 
of  pilgrims.  Thousands  arrive  daily,  waving  smok- 
ing sticks  of  incense,  and  singing  their  weird  songs  of 
praise. 

We  have  only  a  little  company  of  believers  in  this 
place,  and  they  are  so  glad  to  greet  us  when  we  come ! 
After  a  warm  welcome,  we  had  a  nice  dinner  of  rice, 
greens,  and  bean  curd.  I  feel  quite  at  ease  now,  scoop- 
ing rice  into  my  mouth  with  chopsticks. 

Dinner  over,  we  started  for  the  country,  to  see  a 
young  man  who  lived  two  or  three  li  away.  He  wished 
to  be  baptized  at  this  time.  The  family  consisted  of 
him,  his  mother  and  wife,  and  one  little  boy,  a  fine 
child.  It  was  a  pleasure  to  talk  with  the  aged  mother. 
She  has  not  yet  accepted  the  message,  but  she  loves 
Jesus,  and  we  encouraged  her  to  walk  the  way  of  eter- 
nal life.  We  were  treated  to  peanuts,  parched  beans, 
and  squash  seeds.  I  was  hungry,  and  they  tasted  good. 
The  yearly  income  derived  by  this  family  of  four  from 
their  few  tiny  fields,  which  is  all  they  have  to  live  on 
and  clothe  them.selves  with,  is  about  twenty-five  dollars, 
American  money. 

Returning  to  the  village,  we  called  at  the  home  of  a 
shoemaker.  He  is  a  heathen,  but  his  only  son  has  ac- 
cepted Christ,  and  is  now  in  our  training  .school  at 
Shanghai  preparing  for  service. 


92 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


We  spent  the  afternoon  visiting  with  and  encourag- 
ing the  believers.  In  the  evening,  we  held  a  preaching 
service.  The  room  was  crowded,  and  the  attention  was 
excellent.  They  expressed  great  pleasure  listening  to 
my  broken  Chinese.  How  courteous  they  are!  I 
imagine  that  if  a  Chinese  spoke  in  one  of  our  Ameri- 
can gatherings  in  such  broken  language,  it  would  be 
hard  work  for  us  to  restrain  our  amusement. 

Another  of  the  students  at  our  Shanghai  school  has 
relatives  here  in  Nan  Yueh.  After  the  service  to- 
night, one  of  them  approached  me  and  introduced  him- 
self. When  he  mentioned  his  brother,  I  said,  "He  is  a 
good  man." 

"Oh,"  he  said,  "but  formerly  he  wasn't  good,"  and 
he  went  on  to  tell  what  a  bad  case  he  was.  "But  after 
he  began  to  come  to  your  chapel  here,  a  change  came 
into  his  life."     So  this  heathen  bore  a  splendid  testi- 


I 


I 


(9:{] 


94  WITH  OUR   MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

mony  to  the  power  of  the  gospel.  God  grant  that  this 
man  also,  who  is  convicted  of  his  sinfulness,  and  testi- 
fies to  the  power  of  the  gospel,  may  fully  come  out  on 
the  Lord's  side. 

I  have  been  writing  with  a  crowd  of  men  and  boys 
around  me,  and  many  faces  framed  in  the  open  win- 
dow, all  very  curious  to  see  the  stranger;  but  I  am 
quite  accustomed  to  being  stared  at,  and  don't  mind. 

November  25 

Last  night,  I  went  to  bed  with  the  solemn  tones  of 
a  big  temple  bell  ringing  in  my  ears;  and  this  morning, 
before  the  light  of  day,  its  deep  intonations  again  re- 
minded me  that  I  was  in  Nan  Yueh. 

Visitors  came  flocking  in  this  forenoon,  many  of 
them  from  mere  curiosity,  some  of  them  to  ask  the 
foreigner  about  the  Western  country.  Among  the 
visitors  was  an  intelligent  looking  Taoist  priest.  I 
speak  of  him  as  intelligent  looking  because  so  many 
of  these  men  are  heavy  featured  and  uncouth  in  ap- 
pearance. We  questioned  several  candidates  for  bap- 
tism.    Four  of  them  were  accepted. 

I  was  thankful,  on  this  visit,  not  to  have  to  sleep  in 
a  room  with  a  coffin,  as  on  a  former  occasion.  One  part 
of  this  building  is  rented  to  the  mission;  in  the  other 
half,  the  landlord  himself  resides.  When  the  foreign 
pastor  comes,  the  landlord  usually  gives  up  one  of  his 
rooms  for  a  guest  room.  He  has  an  aged  mother.  In 
all  homes  where  there  are  elderly  people,  their  coffins 
are  prepared  early,  in  anticipation  of  their  death.  The 
old  woman  who  lives  here  undoubtedly  takes  great 
comfort  when  she  looks  at  that  big  box,  knowing  that 
her  future  resting  place  is  assured.     Chinese  coffins 


THROUGH   THE  PADDY  FIELDS 


95 


are  not  made  of  boards,  but  of  blocks  of  wood,  so  they 
are  very  heavy.    Good  ones  are  expensive. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  although  the  coffin  has 
already  been  provided,  there  is  not  money  enough  on 
hand  to  pay  for  the  funeral  when  death  occurs;  for 
good  funerals  call  for  a  large  amount  of  money.  There 
are  the  priests,  and  the  paper  house,  and  the  paper 
horse  and  cow,  and  the  music,  the  firecrackers,  and 
other  things  to  arrange  for.  Sometimes  the  relatives 
want  to  bury  their  dead  in  some  distant  place,  and 
haven't  the  ready  money  for  the  traveling  expense. 
In  such  cases,  the  coffin  is  sealed,  and  left  in  one  of  the 
living  rooms  of  the  house,  sometimes  as  long  as  six 
months,  sometimes  longer. 

The  hour  came  for  baptism,  and  we  went  outside  the 
village  to  a  clear  mountain  stream.  It  seems  most 
fitting  to  administer  this  rite  in  water  pure  and  clear 


A  GRAVE  MOUND   NLAK  SIIANC.HAI,  WITH   C(JI  FINS   ANI» 
FUNEIiAL  URNS 


96  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

as  crystal;  but  in  many  places  in  China,  we  have  to 
baptize  in  a  muddy  river. 

Many  villagers  followed  us.  After  the  usual  hymn 
and  prayer,  I  stepped  into  the  water.  As  I  did  so,  a 
shout  of  derision  went  up  from  the  crowd;  but  as  the 
candidates  followed  one  by  one,  and  were  buried  in 
baptism,  a  hush  came  over  those  assembled. 

Then  we  gathered  at  the  chapel  for  the  celebration 
of  the  ordinance*.  I  was  very  happy  this  afternoon 
as  one  of  these  new  brethren  tenderly  laved  my  feet, 
and  I  in  turn  ministered  to  him. 

So  far  on  this  visit  to  Nan  Yueh,  I  have  not  been  to 
see  the  big  temple.  I  have  been  leaving  that  for  to- 
morrow. To-morrow  also  I  must  get  another  view 
from  that  beautiful  mountain  top.  Several  of  the  Chi- 
nese brethren  plan  to  go  with  me. 

Early  in  the  morning,  some  little  boys  came  in,  and 
I  entertained  them  for  a  while.  Presently  I  succeeded 
in  turning  their  minds  toward  Jesus,  and  we  had  a 
children's  meeting.  How  did  I  entertain  them?  —  By 
telling  them  how  we  call  our  animals  and  pets  in  Amer- 
ica. Then  I  asked  them  how  they  call  their  cows,  and 
pigs,  cats,  etc.,  and  requested  them  to  teach  me.  They 
were  tremendously  amused  at  my  efforts  to  imitate 
them. 

A  young  man  came  in  to  have  a  talk  with  me.  I 
liked  the  frank  v^ay  in  which  he  spoke  of  his  faults. 
He  said  he  wanted  to  overcome,  and  by  and  by  be 
baptized.  Alas,  it  is  so  easy  for  these  Chinese  to  con- 
fess their  sins,  and  so  hard  to  let  go  of  them! 

November  26 
Early  this  morning,  I  arose  all  aglow  with  the  pros- 
pect of  climbing  the  mountain,  but  after  waiting  sev- 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  97 

era!  hours  for  a  clear  sky,  gave  up  the  idea.     Next  I 
must  go  to  Hen  Djou;  but  since  it  is  a  full  day's  trip 
I  will  stop  here  one  more  night.    Putting  up  at  night 
on  the  Hen  Djou  road  is  very  bad. 


I 


STONE  IMAGE  OF  TURTLE  AT  THE  NANKING  TOMBS 

H«:au«e  of  tho  turtloV  Unir  lifn.  Bt-no  imnKPH  of  thnt  reptile  have  l.orn.- 

for   centuries   the    rhm..He    rec.r.lH   of   ,l..,.,n  i.mI    princen    nn.l    pri.-lH 


98  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

I  have  spent  the  day  talking  with  inquirers  and 
visiting  temples.  There  are  several  big  temples  here; 
but  the  largest,  the  far-famed  Nan  Yueh  temple  dedi- 
cated to  the  god  Shang  Dy,  is  especially  worth  mention. 

The  temple  yard  is  about  five  hundred  feet  long  by 
three  hundred  feet  wide.  On  either  side  is  a  colonnade 
formed  by  two  rows  of  big  wooden  pillars,  extending 
the  entire  length,  and  supporting  a  tile  roof.  Upon 
entering  the  temple  yard,  the  first  thing  to  visit  is  the 
enormous  stone  turtle,  which  is  supposed  to  protect 
the  place.  This  turtle  is  magnificently  executed  and 
wonderfully  lifelike.  It  is  carved  out  of  black  marble 
(made  in  two  sections),  and  smoothly  polished. 

Resting  on  its  back  is  a  tablet  of  the  same  black 
marble,  twelve  feet  high,  covered  with  inscriptions. 
Surmounting  the  whole  is  a  block  of  gray  granite, 
twelve  feet  long  by  four  feet  wide,  embellished  with 
scroll  work  and  dragons. 

Approaching  the  temple,  we  came  to  two  stone 
houses,  each  with  a  big  open  door,  into  which  packages 
of  paper  money  are  thrown  to  be  burned.  The  money 
thus  used  by  the  worshipers  is  supposed  to  be  trans- 
ferred to  the  spirit  world,  so  that  their  departed 
friends  may  have  the  wherewithal  to  secure  temporal 
comforts.  Of  course,  it  is  not  real  money  that  they 
burn,  just  a  cheap  imitation.  In  the  month  of  August, 
when  the  pilgrims  number  thousands  daily,  these 
stone  houses  become  roaring  furnaces.  It  would  be 
interesting  to  know  how  many  tons  of  paper  are  burned 
here  yearly.  From  a  safe  distance,  the  suppliant 
throws  his  package  of  paper  into  the  flames,  and  then 
kneeling  again  and  again,  bowing,  touches  the  rough 
pavement  with  his  forehead. 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  99 

On  his  way  up  the  steps  to  the  temple,  the  pilgrim 
pauses  to  polish  some  coins  on  the  surface  of  a  great 
dragon.  (The  likeness  is  carved  in  bas-relief,  on  an 
immense  slab  of  white  stone.)  The  coins  are  taken 
home,  and  children  wear  them  on  their  bodies  as 
charms  to  protect  them  from  disease  and  danger. 

The  main  temple  is  a  large  structure.  Including 
the  stone  platform  upon  which  it  stands,  it  is  about 
one  hundred  seventy-five  feet  long,  and  seventy  feet 
high.  The  gilded  tile  roof  is  turned  up  at  the  corners 
in  real  Chinese  fashion.  Under  the  roof  is  a  broad 
facade,  decorated  with  dragons  and  fierce  looking  birds, 
all  done  in  gilt  and  green.  The  temple  is  supported  by 
huge  granite  pillars. 

The  stone  platform  is  surmounted  by  a  stone  fence, 
the  panels  of  which  are  white  stone  ornamented  with 
exquisite  carvings,  trees,  flowers,  birds,  and  animals 
standing  out  in  bas-relief.  Chinese  art  is  not  along 
the  same  lines  as  ours.  Looking  at  it  from  the  stand- 
point of  the  Occidental,  much  of  the  work  of  the 
Chinese  artists  is  very  crude.  They  do  not  seem  to 
attempt  accuracy  of  outline  and  nicety  of  detail.  How- 
ever, the  effect  is  sometimes  magnificent. 

Outside  the  entrance  of  the  temple  is  an  immense 
brazen  basin,  said  to  be  for  the  god  Shang  Dy  to  wa.sh 
in.  As  we  were  looking  at  it,  a  procession  of  priests 
came,  escorting  a  group  of  pilgrims  bearing  incense 
and  precious  wood  to  burn  before  the  altar  in.side. 

It  is  quiet  here  to-day,  and  usually  is,  except  during 
the  special  season  of  worship.  Then  den.se  crowds 
surge  through  the  gate.s,  and  the  air  is  rent  by  the 
shrill  cries  of  the  worshipers.     Again  nnd  :ur;iiii  the 


100  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

chant  arises,  ascribing  omnipotence  to  that  thing  made 
by  men's  hands.  To  see  and  listen  makes  one's 
heart  ache. 

Just  inside  the  temple,  two  big  idols,  about  twenty 
feet  in  height,  guard  the  place,  each  with  a  mighty 
battle-ax  in  hand.  Shang  Dy  stands  behind  an  inclos- 
ure  of  wooden  pales.  His  upper  part  is  veiled  —  one 
must  pay  a  fee  and  go  inside  in  order  to  look  upon  his 
face.  His  gorgeous  skirts  of  green  and  purple  are  all 
that  can  be  seen  from  without.  Before  him  millions 
have  bowed  in  reverence.  To  his  presence  countless 
aching  hearts  have  come,  seeking  for  help,  oh,  so 
vainly!  Millions  of  dollars,  some  of  them  very  hard- 
earned,  have  been  expended.  And  still  the  empty  form 
goes  on. 

There  is  a  big  barrel-shaped  drum  here,  six  and  one 
half  feet  in  diameter  —  a  wonderful  drum.  The  slight- 
est tap  with  a  lead  pencil  starts  deep  reverberations 
that  rumble  for  a  long  time. 

So  much  for  this  temple!  Five  miles  away,  at  the 
top  of  the  mountain  (3,500  feet  above  sea  level),  stands 
another,  a  very  old  one,  also  dedicated  to  Shang  Dy. 
The  steep  ascent  to  the  summit  is  made  by  stone  steps, 
not  a  few  of  them  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock.  The  view 
from  the  summit  is  wonderful.  All  along  the  ascent 
are  temples,  some  large  and  some  small.  Here  a  person 
may  count  gods  by  the  thousand.  Near  the  top  is  a 
Chinese  library,  reported  to  be  very,  very  old.  Getting 
the  building  material  up  that  steep  mountain  side 
must  have  been  a  great  feat.  The  temple  at  the  sum- 
mit has  an  immense  brazen  burner,  which  is  said  to 
have  taken  three  hundred  coolies  to  carry  up. 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  101 

At  still  another  temple  that  I  visited  to-day  in  the 
village,  a  service  vv^as  conducted  that  reminded  me  very 
much  of  the  service  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church. 
The  music  of  the  big  orchestra  was  the  best  Chinese 
music  I  have  ever  heard  —  very  pleasant  to  listen  to. 
The  sweet,  plaintive  strains,  the  incense-laden  atmos- 
phere, the  gorgeous  robes  of  the  priests,  their  digni- 
fied movements,  the  solemn  chants, —  all  could  not  fail 
to  impress  the  visitor  with  a  feeling  akin  to  awe. 

November  27 

The  mountains  were  still  thickly  shrouded  with 
mist  this  morning  when  we  started  out  from  Nan 
Yueh.    To-day  I  took  a  chair. 

This  day  has  not  been  very  interesting.  The  chair 
coolies  plodded  stolidly  along,  and  the  big  soldier 
tagged  behind.  I  walked,  too,  part  of  the  way.  I  don't 
enjoy  riding  in  a  sedan  chair.  It  makes  the  men  who 
carry  me  beasts  of  burden.  Then,  too,  I  am  heavier 
than  most  of  the  Chinese,  of  which  fact  they  are  not 
slow  to  remind  me.  So  I  walk  much  more  than  the 
mere  love  of  walking  would  induce  me  to  do,  just  to 
ease  my  conscience.  How  they  grumble  when  I  get 
back  into  the  chair,  after  walking  a  spell ! 

Of  course,  it  isn't  light  work  —  two  men  carrying 
another  man  mile  after  mile  over  all  kinds  of  roads. 
All  the  carriers  in  China  have  to  work  hard.  In  Hen 
Djou,  a  city  of  perhaps  three  hundred  thousand  people, 
there  isn't  even  a  jinrikisha  or  a  wheelbarrow.  Every- 
thing is  carried  on  the  back  or  shoulders  of  men.  But 
pushing  a  heavily  Icidon  wheelbarrow  over  roughly 
paved  streets  is  cruel  work,  too. 


102  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

In  the  country,  there  are  cattle  to  help  out  with  the 
plowing  and  the  harrowing;  but  all  the  burdens  that 
have  to  be  carried  are  committed  to  men.  Sometimes 
wheelbarrows  are  used,  when  the  roads  are  good 
enough.  Remember,  I  am  writing  of  local  conditions, 
not  of  Chinese  conditions  in  general. 

The  most  comical  thing  I  saw  to-day  was  a  small 
boy  watching  the  family  buffaloes  as  they  browsed 
near  a  field  of  beans.  It  was  raining;  so  the  little  fel- 
low had  perched  on  the  back  of  a  big  buffalo,  raised 
his  umbrella,  and  sat  there  as  dignified  in  appearance 
as  an  emperor.  These  buffaloes  (water  cows  the  Chi- 
nese call  them),  although  so  large,  are  very  docile,  and 
a  child  can  manage  them  readily.  They  are  fine  to  use 
when  cultivating  the  rice  fields.  Their  broad  feet  are 
at  home  on  land,  in  mud,  or  in  water.  Although  so 
heavy,  they  splash  drowsily  along,  knee-deep  in  mud, 
with  apparent  ease  and  content.  They  are  great  swim- 
mers. On  a  hot  summer  day,  they  love  to  lie  in  a  pool, 
with  only  the  head  above  the  surface.  They  enjoy 
plunging  under,  too. 

November  28 

It  was  about  eleven  o'clock  when  we  arrived  at  Hen 
Djou.  We  ought  to  have  reached  here  early  in  the 
evening,  but  the  chair  coolies  were  a  disappointment. 
They  apparently  didn't  care  whether  we  got  anywhere 
or  not.  About  dusk,  we  arrived  at  the  village  of  Djang 
Mo  Sz.  Hen  Djou  was  still  ten  miles  away,  and  the 
coolies  refused  to  go  any  farther;  so  we  secured  pas- 
sage on  a  small  boat.  The  boatman  rowed  well,  and 
in  due  time  we  arrived. 

As  the  city  gates  were  already  shut  for  the  night, 
there  was  nothing  to  do  but  sleep  outside.     We  had 


[ 


(103) 


104  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

some  difficulty  finding  a  lodging  house;  besides,  it  was 
rather  uncanny  groping  about  the  dark  streets,  and  I 
was  just  a  bit  glad  of  the  big  soldier  with  his  big 
knife.  After  a  while,  we  found  a  place  to  sleep;  and 
as  Providence  would  have  it,  one  of  our  church  mem- 
bers was  staying  there  that  night.  In  the  confusion 
occasioned  by  our  arrival,  he  was  awakened,  and  recog- 
nizing my  voice,  left  his  bed  to  greet  me.  A  bed  next 
his  was  given  me,  and  I  had  a  pleasant  chat  with  him 
before  falling  asleep. 

Early  this  morning,  we  entered  Hen  Djou,  and 
found  our  way  to  the  Seventh-day  Adventist  chapel. 
Here  I  dismissed  my  bodyguard.  To-day  I  have  en- 
joyed meeting  again  the  few  brethren  and  sisters  we 
have  here.  Thus  far  the  work  in  Hen  Djou  has  gone 
slowly;  but  we  have  a  stronger  man  here  now,  and 
hope  for  better  things. 

Many  of  our  church  members  in  this  place  are  named 
Hv^^ang,  which  means  yellow.  Not  a  very  inspiring 
name  in  English,  is  it?  But  yellow  in  China  is  the 
imperial  color,  and  Hwang  is  a  very  common  family 
name.  Other  common  surnames  are  Li,  meaning 
plum;  Djang,  meaning  to  grow;  and  Wang,  meaning 
king. 

The  weather  is  cold  and  drizzly  to-day,  and  I  have 
appreciated  the  charcoal  fire.  It  is  quite  cozy.  These 
charcoal  fires  are  not  healthful;  but  in  wintertime, 
they  give  these  cheerless,  dark  Chinese  houses  just  a 
suggestion  of  coziness.  There  is  rarely  a  window 
where  the  healing,  cheering  sunlight  can  stream  in. 
Some  of  the  Chinese  are  fond  of  plants  and  flowers, 
but  these  are  usually  found  in  a  court  outside  the 
house. 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  105 

It  was  in  Hen  Djou  that  I  sipped  my  first  cup  of 
chrysanthemum  tea,  made  of  chrysanthemum  flowers, 
not  the  leaves.  There  is  one  hospitable  home  here 
where  it  is  always  served.  I  have  no  way  of  finding 
out  whether  the  beverage  is  healthful  or  not.  How- 
ever, it  is  quite  pleasant  to  drink,  and  I  am  sure  that 
it  does  not  stimulate. 

To-morrow  is  the  Sabbath  day.  I  am  looking  for- 
ward to  it  with  much  pleasure. 

November  29 

The  guest  chamber  at  our  chapel  here  is  the  loft,  so 
last  night  I  scrambled  up  a  ladder  to  bed.  It  was  a 
stormy  night.  The  rain  beat  down  spitefully  on  the 
tiles  overhead,  and  violent  gusts  of  wind  came  in 
through  the  lattice  window.  My  bedding  was  very 
damp,  and  I  could  not  keep  warm.  I  got  up  before 
light,  descended  from  the  loft,  and  tried  to  get  warm 
over  the  little  fire  that  had  been  left  burning  over- 
night. I  hope  we  shall  have  a  sunny  day  soon.  It 
has  been  very  damp  for  two  or  three  days,  and  my 
bedclothes  feel  almost  as  wet  as  if  they  had  just  come 
from  the  wringer.  There  is  no  way  of  drying  bedding 
inside;  we  must  wait  for  a  bright  day,  and  hang  it 
out  of  doors. 

This  morning,  I  was  stamping  around  vigorously  to 
keep  up  my  circulation.  A  Chinese  brother  stood  by, 
looking  calmly  on.  I  said  to  him:  "I  am  so  cold  my 
feet  ache.     Aren't  you  cold?" 

"Yes,"  he  said ;  "my  feet  also  ache." 

I  should  like  to  know  what  he  was  thinking  as  he 
watched  my  performance.  Patient  Chinese!  These 
discomforts  that  Westerners  make  such  a   fuss  over, 


106  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

they  accept  as  a  matter  of  course.  Some  of  them  never 
have  been  comfortable,  and  don't  expect  ever  to  be. 
Often,  when  they  are  cold,  they  won't  admit  it,  that  is 
such  a  trifling  matter.  I  have  heard  a  man  whose 
limbs  were  shaking  and  teeth  chattering  with  cold,  de- 
clare with  all  solemnity  that  he  was  very  comfortable. 

The  little  children  look  comfortable  to-day  in  their 
padded  clothing.  The  tiny  ones  are  about  as  wide  as 
long,  just  a  chubby  face  peering  out  of  a  bundle. 

Some  brethren  from  a  distant  place  dropped  in  and 
partook  of  communion  with  us.  We  had  a  precious 
season  with  the  Lord. 

I  found  one  brother  and  his  family  in  desperate 
circumstances.  The  place  they  live  in  is  indescribably 
wretched,  and  they  continually  suffer  for  the  bare 
necessities  of  life.  This  brother  belongs  to  the  old 
school  of  Chinese  scholars.  He  is  well  educated  ac- 
cording to  the  old  standards;  but  with  the  increasing 
use  of  the  printing  press,  and  the  almost  complete 
revolution  of  the  Chinese  educational  system  of  late, 
he  is  practically  useless. 

When  he  came  to  the  chapel  to  see  me,  he  looked 
pitiable.  He  wore  a  worn-out  waist  and  trousers,  and 
a  flimsy  old  cotton  soma.  (The  soma  corresponds  to 
our  coat,  and  is  long  enough  to  come  down  to  the 
ankles.)  I  am  dressed  warmer  than  I  ever  dressed 
for  a  New  England  winter,  yet  I  suffer  from  the  cold. 
Besides  the  two  heavy  suits  of  underwear  that  I  am 
wearing,  I  had  another  suit  with  me.  I  clambered  up 
to  the  loft,  got  it  out,  and  told  the  brother  to  put  it  on. 
When  he  next  appeared,  he  had  discarded  part  of  his 
former  rags,  as  being  out  of  place  with  his  new  ap- 


< 
o 

►J 
.J 


u 

X 

H 

z 

O 

►J 
u 

U 

X 


(107) 


108  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

parel,  and  wore  the  American  underwear,  only  partly 
concealed  by  his  shabby  old  soma. 

The  brethren,  suspecting  that  I  didn't  sleep  well 
last  night,  have  brought  me  some  Chinese  covers;  so 
I  think  I  shall  sleep  better  to-night. 

November  30 

The  principal  business  to-day  was  to  look  for  a  new 
place  to  rent,  as  the  chapel  we  are  now  using  is  no 
longer  suitable.  The  Chinese  brethren  thought  that 
if  I  went  along,  perhaps  the  mission  could  not  rent  to 
such  good  advantage.  It  is  marvelous  how  rents  go 
up  when  it  is  known  that  the  prospective  renter  is  a 
foreigner.  The  plan  is,  therefore,  for  the  foreigners 
to  keep  in  the  background  until  the  amount  of  rent 
wanted  is  talked  through. 

I  looked  at  some  more  temples  —  a  favorite  diver- 
sion. On  a  beautiful  hilltop  outside  the  city  is  a  temple 
containing  the  most  miscellaneous  collection  of  idols 
I  have  ever  seen.  One  god  has  forty-eight  arms;  one 
has  a  black  face;  the  distinguishing  feature  of  another 
is  his  exaggerated  eyebrows;  still  another  has  a  tripod 
in  his  hands. 

There  is  a  bell  at  this  place  which  is  said  to  have 
fallen  direct  from  heaven.  There  is  also  a  much  treas- 
ured black  stone,  believed  to  have  come  from  the  same 
source.  It  has  been  imbedded  in  the  outer  wall  of  the 
temple.  If  the  visitor  throws  water  upon  the  stone, 
and  then  looks  at  it  from  the  proper  angle,  he  sees 
the  city  of  Hen  Djou  mirrored  in  its  surface.  The  re- 
flection is  not  now  perfect,  because  the  stone  has  not 
always  been  carefully  guarded,  and  has  been  scratched 
and  defaced  by  rowdies.  However,  it  is  a  wonderful 
stone. 


THROUGH   THE  PADDY  FIELDS  109 

There  is  another  temple  here  that  contains  clay 
figures  depicting  all  the  supposed  terrors  of  hell.  It  is 
the  Chinese  Buddhist  conception  of  the  punishment  of 
the  wicked,  I  was  told.  What  I  saw  there  was  fright- 
fully realistic.  I  am  sure  that  if  I  were  a  heathen,  and 
believed  what  I  saw  there,  I  should  be  frightened 
enough  to  keep  straight  one  long  while. 

Men  and  women  are  there  represented  writhing  in 
the  flames,  imprisoned  in  stocks,  being  sawn  asunder, 
being  disemboweled,  falling  from  cliffs,  being  flayed 
alive,  in  the  coils  of  serpents,  etc. ;  and  accompanying 
each  portrayal  is  an  inscription  telling  what  sin  the 
poor  creature  is  being  punished  for.  One  subject  is  a 
man  in  a  caldron  of  hot  oil.  A  devil  is  standing  with 
a  fork  in  hand  to  prevent  him  from  climbing  out,  while 
another  devil  is  blowing  at  the  fire  under  the  caldron 
to  make  it  hotter. 

One  other  item  that  may  be  of  interest  is  the  incense 
that  in  some  of  these  temples  burns  perpetually.  It  is 
made  in  great  coils  that  are  suspended  from  the  ceil- 
ing. Some  of  them  are  supposed  to  burn  just  one 
month. 

In  the  evening,  we  invited  a  young  man  who  a- year 
ago  was  a  heathen,  to  talk  to  the  outside  audience. 
He  did  very  well  indeed.  It  is  wonderful  how  rapidly, 
under  the  tuition  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  some  of  these 
young  men  develop  in  the  mes.sage. 

To-morrow  I  must  go  into  the  country  to  look  up  an 
elderly  couple  who  have  moved  so  far  away  that  they 
cannot  come  regularly  to  service. 

December  l 
Early    this    morning,    one    of    the    brethren    and    1 
started  for  the  country  to  find  our  old  friends.    On  my 


110  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

previous  visit  to  Hen  Djou,  this  couple  were  very  de- 
sirous of  being  baptized;  but  when  we  questioned  them, 
we  found  that  they  were  not  keeping  the  Sabbath 
perfectly,  and  needed  further  instruction  in  other 
matters.  So  I  promised  them  that  if  on  my  return 
they  had  grown  in  grace,  they  might  be  baptized. 

On  our  way,  we  met  hundreds  of  farmers  coming 
in  to  market,  not  riding  in  "democrat"  wagons,  but 
walking  with  two  big  baskets  of  produce  suspended 
from  a  bar  of  wood,  or  a  section  of  a  bamboo  pole, 
thrown  across  the  shoulder.  The  loads  were  mostly 
of  rice,  vegetables,  and  eggs.  Two  men  were  carry- 
ing a  pig  to  market  on  a  stretcher. 

We  enjoyed  the  walk.  We  lost  our  way  once,  but 
retraced  our  steps,  and  finally  arrived  at  our  destina- 
tion. Our  brother  is  a  country  school-teacher;  and, 
as  I  expected,  on  approaching  his  place,  we  heard  a 
small  babel  of  voices,  droning  away  at  their  tasks. 
One  little  lad  was  reciting  at  the  top  of  his  shrill  voice. 

In  a  small,  dark  hovel,  Brother  Dju  lives  and  in- 
structs his  ten  small  charges,  giving  them  the  rudi- 
ments of  an  education.  He  teaches  only  two  of  the 
"three  R's,"  reading  and  "riting."  "Rithmetic,"  or 
the  use  of  the  abacus,  they  pick  up  at  home.  I  asked 
the  teacher  to  get  the  children  started  again  at  their 
tasks;  but  he  said  that  as  long  as  I  stayed,  it  was 
impossible.  The  good  man's  wife  was  not  at  home. 
We  sat  a  little  while,  then  came  away,  Dju  assuring 
us  that  they  would  both  come  to  the  chapel  to  service 
on  the  morrow. 

December  2 

The  weather  is  still  very  bad.  We  visited  believers 
this   morning,   coming  back  to   a   fine   dinner.      This 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS 


111 


afternoon,  one  man  and  one  woman  were  baptized,  and 
received  into  church  membership.  On  account  of  the 
inclemency  of  the  weather,  Mrs.  Dju,  who  is  old  and 
feeble,  decided  to  wait  until  another  time. 


/■ 


A  MAN  OF  LEAUNING,  A  CLASS  MUCH  RKVEREl)  IN  CHIN/ 


112  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

The  water  in  the  river  is  very  low  now.  On  the 
beach,  the  water  was  too  shallow  for  baptism;  so  we 
all  boarded  two  big  boats,  and  had  them  rowed  out  to- 
ward the  middle  of  the  river,  where  the  water  was 
waist  deep.  We  had  no  difficulty  with  the  brother, 
but  the  sister  had  to  be  lowered  into  the  river  and 
pulled  up  again.  However,  she  went  through  the  or- 
deal with  good  grace.  The  water  was  icy  cold,  and 
I  suffered;  but  the  brother  and  sister  declared  that 
they  did  not  mind  the  cold,  and  I  don't  believe  that 
they  did. 

The  Chinese  had  a  good  laugh  at  my  expense  to-day. 
It  all  came  because  of  my  curiosity.  When  I  see  any- 
thing out  of  the  ordinary,  I  persistently  inquire  until 
I  understand  what  it  is.  Two  or  three  times  lately  I 
have  seen  what  to  me  was  an  object  of  great  mystery. 
It  is  a  small  red  package,  in  shape  like  a  brick,  only 
larger,  suspended  over  the  doors  of  dwelling  houses, 
outside. 

Now  I  wondered  what  superstition  could  possibly 
be  connected  with  this  red  package.  Sometimes  in 
Hunan  we  see  a  small  looking-glass  over  a  house  door, 
placed  there  to  keep  the  devils  out.  When  a  devil 
comes  to  the  door  to  enter,  he  sees  his  own  likeness  in 
the  glass,  and,  becoming  frightened,  turns  back.  I 
thought  this  mysterious  red  package  might  also  have 
some  charm  about  it.  Well,  I  found  out  that  it  was 
only  a  weight,  connected  with  an  apparatus  for  rais- 
ing and  lowering  a  big  lamp  that  at  night  hangs 
outside  the  door.  The  Chinese  greatly  enjoyed  my  dis- 
comfiture. 

We  haven't  found  any  place  to  rent  yet.  Most  of 
those  available  are  higher  than  the  mission  can  afford 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  113 

to   pay.     And   there   are   some   property-holders   who 
won't  rent  to  a  mission. 

To-day  I  visited  a  home  that  made  my  heart  ache,  it 
was  such  a  miserable  hovel.  The  man  and  wife  are 
members  of  our  church.  I  hope  they  will  have  a  beau- 
tiful mansion  in  heaven. 

We  are  planning  to  leave  to-morrow  for  Yen  Djou. 
The  chair  bearers  are  engaged  for  early  in  the 
morning. 

December  3 

My  slumbers  were  disturbed  very  early  this  morn- 
ing, by  some  fuss  in  the  near  neighborhood.  The  first 
thing  I  heard  was  a  man's  voice,  stern  and  command- 
ing, and  the  shrill  tones  of  a  woman's  voice  apparently 
raised  in  appeal.  "Why,"  I  thought  to  myself,  "some 
of  our  neighbors  are  quarreling  early!"  I  might  have 
settled  myself  quite  unconcernedly  to  sleep  again,  for 
such  occurrences  are  all  too  common  in  Hunan;  but 
the  shouting  was  suddenly  drowned  by  a  general  hub- 
bub. Then  came  the  cries  again,  and  another  hubbub, 
a  shouting  and  banging,  and  firecrackers.  Then  I 
knew  that  it  wasn't  a  row;  for  when  there  is  a  quarrel, 
there  isn't  time  for  firecrackers. 

The  chapel  boy  got  up  and  went  out,  curious,  I  think, 
to  know  who  was  concerned.  It  seems  that  there  is  a 
woman  in  a  neighboring  house  who  is  very  ill.  She 
was  apparently  breathing  her  last  this  morning,  when 
her  relatives  and  friends  who  had  assemljled,  had  re- 
course to  an  old  custom.  The  nearest  relatives  shouted 
to  her  to  bear  up,  not  to  give  way  to  death  —  much  as 
we  might  try  to  keep  a  tired  child  from  slumber,  only 
with  intense  desperation.  Then  all  present,  with  voice, 
beating  of  furniture,  setting  off  of  firecrackers,  and 


114  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

apparently  every  other  method  they  could  devise,  made 
as  much  of  a  racket  as  possible,  to  keep  the  death  angel 
from  claiming  the  sick  woman.  I  asked  the  chapel 
boy  later  if  this  performance  had  had  the  desired 
effect,  and  he  said  the  woman  was  better. 

But  as  we  left  the  chapel  this  morning,  the  intensity 
of  the  cries  of  grief  from  still  another  house  told  us 
that  there  death  had  just  claimed  its  victim.  It  is 
common,  when  walking  on  the  street,  to  hear  the  cries 
of  those  mourning  their  dead.  To  them,  death  is  so 
terrible;  for  they  mourn  as  those  who  have  no  hope. 

On  reaching  the  river,  we  found  that  the  boat  which 
had  been  engaged  for  us  was  very  comfortable.  What 
made  it  so  was  the  fact  that  it  was  partially  filled  with 
rice.  Sleeping  on  rice  is  luxurious  after  reclining  on 
hard  boards,  I  can  assure  you. 

The  weather  is  drizzly  and  chilly  yet.  We  haven't 
seen  the  sun  for  a  week.  I  settled  myself  down  for  a 
good  study  of  Chinese  characters,  with  Hwang  as  my 
tutor.  He  will  accompany  me  to  the  next  two  stations. 
A  Brother  Djou  is  also  going  as  far  as  Lei  Yang  with 
us.  Our  next  stopping  place  will  be  Yen  Djou,  one 
hundred  and  fifty  li  by  water  from  Hen  Djou.  There 
we  have  a  large  company  of  believers.  I  haven't  seen 
much  of  interest  to-day.  We  are  passing  through  a 
comparatively  flat  country  —  a  country  of  rice  fields 
for  the  most  part. 

December  4 

We  were  overjoyed  this  morning  to  see  the  sun 
again  flooding  the  earth  v^ith  light.  I  had  a  thoroughly 
enjoyable  time,  walking  along  the  path  on  the  bluffs, 
or  through  the  fields  where  the  Chinese  farmers  are 
busy  with  their  fall  work.    In  some  places,  the  air  was 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS 


115 


heavily  perfumed  with  the  fragrance  of  the  lovely 
wild  chrysanthemums.  I  passed  through  a  fine  oak 
grove,  and  gathered  acorns.  The  sight  of  me  fright- 
ened some  poor  children  dreadfully.  I  met  them  on 
the  steep  river  bank.    One  poor  little  fellow  was  almost 


9 


%^ 


THE  CHINESE  FARMER,  CONTENT  WITH  THINGS  AS  THEY  ARE 

paralyzed  with  fright.  He  kept  falling,  in  his  efforts 
to  get  away;  and  I  feared  he  would  tumble  down  that 
steep  place  into  the  river. 

Many  Chinese  parents  coerce  naughty  children  into 
good  behavior  by  threatening  to  call  a  "foreign  devil" 
(foreigner).  Once  a  refractory  child  was  brought 
screaming  to  the  door  of  a  chapel  where  I  was  staying, 
to  scare  him  into  .submission.  Another  time,  a.s  I  was 
passing  through  a  small  village,  my  attention  was  at- 


116  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

traded  to  a  tiny  baby  lying  in  a  basket.  There  were 
probably  twenty  flies  walking  about  on  his  tender  face, 
and  the  little  thing  was  crying  piteously.  I  paused 
a  moment,  wishing  I  could  do  something  for  the  child. 
The  young  mother  happened  to  look  up,  and  saw  a 
foreigner  who  was  suspiciously  interested  in  her  baby. 
With  a  cry  in  which  fear  and  defiance  were  inter- 
mingled, she  bounded  to  the  cradle,  clasped  her  baby 
to  her  breast,  and  stood  there  glaring  at  me  like  an 
animal  at  bay.  Without  doubt,  when  she  saw  my  at- 
tention attracted  to  her  baby,  her  mind  reverted  to 
all  the  old  stories  she  had  heard  when  a  child,  of  for- 
eigners catching  little  children  and  gouging  out  their 
eyes  to  make  medicine,  etc. 

Some  of  the  Chinese  were  reaping  buckwheat,  pull- 
ing it  handful  by  handful;  some  were  digging  sweet 
potatoes;  others  were  plowing.  It  is  rather  amusing 
to  me  to  see  a  huge  buffalo  drawing  a  light  wooden 
plow  that  a  twelve-year-old  boy  could  carry  about 
easily.  These  plows  look  rather  crude;  but  they  are 
quite  cleverly  made  after  all,  and  do  good  work  in  the 
soft,  yielding  soil. 

The  boat  came  along  rather  slowly,  so  I  didn't  wait 
for  it,  but  kept  on  walking,  and  arrived  at  Yen  Djou 
chapel  about  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 

Here  I  found  a  group  of  believers  awaiting  our  ar- 
rival. They  rushed  into  the  chapel  when  they  saw  me 
coming,  and  brought  out  great  strings  of  firecrackers, 
and  set  them  off.  Thus  I  arrived  in  the  midst  of  a 
tremendous  uproar.  Then  hearty  individual  greetings 
were  exchanged,  after  which  the  Yen  Djou  friends  all 
hastened  to  prepare  something  good  for  us  to  eat. 
Hwang  and  Djou  arrived  soon  after  I  did. 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  117 

Yen  Djou  is  a  shipping  place  for  coal.  It  is  only  a 
village,  and  not  very  prepossessing  in  appearance;  but 
most  of  our  inquirers  here  are  shopkeepers  in  com- 
fortable circumstances.  One  of  our  colporteurs  came 
to  this  place  to  sell  papers  a  year  and  a  half  ago.  In 
his  zeal  for  the  truth,  he  incurred  the  resentment  of 
the  Catholics,  who  have  a  strong  mission  here.  A  mob 
of  them  came  with  their  friends,  one  day  when  he  was 
giving  a  Bible  reading,  seized  him,  together  with  an- 
other man  who  was  very  favorable  to  the  truth,  and 
brought  them  before  the  county  magistrate,  who  is  a 
Roman  Catholic.  They  imprisoned  them  for  forty 
days.  Far  from  stamping  out  the  interest  in  this  place, 
this  incident  only  deepened  the  desire  to  hear  the  gos- 
pel. The  inquirers  fitted  up  a  chapel  at  their  own  ex- 
pense, and  then  sent  an  appeal  to  Changsha  for  a 
preacher.  We  have  had  an  evangelist  here  now  for 
eight  months.     This  is  my  second  visit  to  the  place. 

The  people  are  very  rough,  but  the  gospel  has  done 
wonderful  things  for  some  of  them  already.  At  the 
time  of  our  former  visit,  some  of  them  pleaded  for 
baptism;  but  we  thought  it  best  for  them  to  wait. 
Now  there  are  many  here  who  want  baptism,  some  of 
whom  are  manifestly  unconverted.  May  God  give 
us  wisdom  to  know  who  should  gf)  forward  in  this 
solemn  rite. 

December  5 

I  find  this  dirty,  tumble-down-looking  Yen  Djou  very 
interesting.  It  is  the  scene  of  considerable  activity. 
All  day  long  a  line  of  men  and  boys  bearing  baskets  of 
coal,  pa.sses  through  the  village  to  the  bins  on  the  river 
bank.  The  mines  are  about  nine  li  away.  The  carriers 
daily  make  three  trips  to  the  mines  and  return,  carry- 


118 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


ing  about  one  hundred  thirty  pounds  of  coal  to  a  load. 
What  a  waste  of  human  energy !  It  would  be  interest- 
ing to  compute  how  much  coal  these  people  (there  are 
about  a  thousand  carriers  here)  could  move  in  a  day, 
compared  with  what  a  handful  of  men  with  modern 
conveniences  could  move. 

Yen  Djou  is  a  market  place.  That  is  to  say,  on  cer- 
tain days,  the  country  people  for  many  miles  around 
flock  here  with  produce  to  sell.  Manufacturers  come 
with  their  wares,  small  merchants  come  to  sell  notions 
and  sweetmeats,  fakers  bring  their  wheels  of  fortune. 
Sometimes  an  acrobat  displays  his  skill.  On  these 
days,  Yen  Djou  is  a  bustling  and  busy  community. 

The  curse  of  the  place  is  strong  drink.  The  people 
also  smoke  great  quantities  of  tobacco,  many  of  them 


THE  BIRD  OF  THE   COOLIE   HAS  AN   AHUNG,  THE   SAME  AS   ITS 
ARISTOCRATIC  RELATIVES 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  119 

using  long  bamboo  pipes,   some   of   which   are   four 
feet  long. 

This  section  of  Hunan  produces  great  quantities  of 
cha  oil.  China  produces  several  kinds  of  excellent 
vegetable  oil,  but  cha  oil  is  most  common  in  Hunan. 
It  is  not  sent  to  market  in  casks,  but  in  baskets.  Think 
of  sending  cooking  oil  to  market  in  baskets!  These 
baskets  are  lined  with  paper  especially  prepared  for 
the  purpose,  and  each  one  holds  about  a  hundred 
pounds  of  oil. 

This  morning,  we  examined  candidates  for  baptism. 
Six  were  accepted  and  went  forward  in  the  rite.  This 
was  the  first  time  the  inhabitants  of  Yen  Djou  ever 
witnessed  a  baptismal  service,  and  the  brethren  were 
baptized  amid  the  jeers  and  ridicule  of  many  of  those 
assembled.  May  God  grant  that  some  of  those  who 
to-day  ridiculed,  will  yet  follow  their  Saviour  in 
baptism. 

We  hope  to  see  some  of  the  Yen  Djou  women  ready 
for  baptism  later.  Because  very  few  of  the  women 
can  read,  they  are  usually  more  backward  than  the  men 
about  accepting  the  gospel.  As  their  husbands  live 
the  gospel,  and  our  evangelists'  wives  labor  with  them 
and  influence  them  to  attend  preaching  services,  the 
honest-hearted  will  gradually  be  gathered  into  the  fold 
of  Christ. 

December  6 

It  was  a  very  pleasant  occasion  to-day,  when  those 
baptized  yesterday  were  received  into  church  member- 
ship, and  we  all  met  around  the  Lord's  table. 

Many  came  to-day  for  medicine  and  advice.  I  have 
been  quite  busy  looking  at  bad  eyes,  dressing  sores, 
etc.     I  only  wish  I  could  do  something  for  them  worth 


120  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

while.     The  best  I  can  do  will  bring  only  temporary 
relief. 

Early  this  morning,  I  strolled  out  of  the  village  for 
a  little  quiet  time  with  God,  and  was  a  bit  vexed  to  be 
followed  by  some  of  the  brethren.  They  said  they  were 
afraid  I  would  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Catholics.  I 
found  a  little  hillock,  covered  with  old  trees,  where 
the  heathen  come  to  worship.  Stuck  into  the  crevices 
of  trees  and  stones,  were  the  oddest  emblems  of  wor- 
ship imaginable, —  the  heads  of  fowls  mounted  on 
bamboo  sticks,  and  carefully  veiled  with  paper.  The 
sticks  were  decorated  with  strips  of  white  paper  and 
red  cloth.  This  must  be  a  local  custom,  for  I  have  not 
seen  it  elsewhere. 

A  poor  old  man  came  into  the  chapel  to-day,  want- 
ing medicine.  He  was  nearly  blind  from  cataract.  I 
told  him  that  my  eye  medicine  would  not  do  his  eye 
any  good,  but  he  insisted  on  having  some.  My  heart 
ached  for  this  old  man.  Scarcely  any  one  in  this  region 
has  good  eyes. 

To-day  was  market  day  here,  and  the  country  people 
came  in  large  numbers.  I  was  an  object  of  great 
curiosity.  As  I  picked  my  way  through  the  crowd, 
some  of  them  good-naturedly  pawed  me  over,  as  if  I 
had  been  an  object  for  sale  in  some  curiosity  shop. 
They  wanted  to  see  and  feel  my  clothes,  ask  the  price, 
etc.  I  essayed  to  distribute  some  literature,  and  do  a 
little  missionary  work ;  but  most  of  these  people  under- 
stood hardly  a  word. 

December  7 
To-day  was  our  calling  day  in  Yen  Djou.    We  didn't 
have  much   time  yesterday  to  visit  the  believers   in 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  121 

their  homes ;  so  this  morning,  we  started  out  to  make 
the  rounds  of  the  village. 

We  find  the  people  here  kind-hearted  and  hospitable 
—  almost  too  hospitable.  It  is  exceedingly  difficult  to 
avoid  any  of  their  good  things.  One  of  the  treats 
they  are  fond  of  preparing  for  guests  is  three  or  four 
hard-boiled  eggs,  peeled,  and  served  swimming  in  a 
big  bowl  of  sweetened  water,  without  salt.  The  first 
egg  tastes  pretty  good ;  but  imagine  yourself  eating 
two  under  great  pressure,  and  then  being  served  with 
the  same  "delicacy"  at  almost  the  next  house.  I  should 
enjoy  seeing  some  of  my  friends  try  to  handle  this 
dish  with  chopsticks,  and  hear  the  accompanying  re- 
marks. I  can  manage  now  to  pick  up  a  hard  egg  with 
chopsticks,  and  eat  it  that  way.  Another  recipe  calls 
for  three  or  four  hard-boiled  eggs,  also  served  with 
sweetened  water,  made  quite  thick  with  boiled  chest- 
nuts and  Chinese  prunes.  A  variety  of  dainties  is 
usually  brought  on,  including  cakes,  sweetmeats,  melon 
seeds,  and  peanuts.  I  often  have  recourse  to  the  pea- 
nuts, as  they  are  generally  served  in  their  shells,  and 
.so  are  quite  germ-proof.  The  melon  seeds  are  pal- 
atable, but  not  overly  clean. 

After  dinner,  we  took  leave  of  our  good  friends  here, 
eight  or  ten  of  them  e.scorting  us  for  some  distance 
on  our  way.  May  our  heavenly  Father  keep  these 
babes  in  Christ!  We  dislike  to  leave  them  in  that 
wicked  place,  and  our  preacher  there  is  not  very  strong. 
Sometimes  the  appeals  for  help  are  so  urgent  that  we 
have  to  thrust  out  men  who  ^mc  young  in  the  message, 
and  inexperienced;  but  the  Lord  has  often  blessed 
their  feeble  efforts  in  a  wonderful  way. 


i 


122  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

After  a  walk  of  five  miles,  we  arrived  about  dark 
at  Djang  Lo  Shu.  We  have  no  regular  preacher  here; 
but  the  inquirers  in  this  neighborhood  have  rented  a 
house,  and  repaired  and  whitewashed  it,  so  it  makes 
a  nice  place  of  worship.  A  few  men  meet  here  on  the 
Sabbath  for  prayer  and  Bible  study,  and  sometimes 
one  of  our  evangelists  visits  them.  We  held  a  meeting 
with  some  of  the  inquirers  who  live  near,  then,  as  we 
were  very  tired  from  the  exertions  of  the  day,  went 
early  to  bed. 

December  8 

We  were  fortunate  enough  to  meet  several  more  of 
our  farmer  inquirers  this  morning.  As  it  was  market 
day  here,  many  of  them  had  come  in  early  with  prod- 
uce. They  pleaded  most  earnestly  for  a  preacher,  for 
they  are  like  sheep  without  a  shepherd.  I  believe 
there  is  material  enough  in  this  country  neighborhood 
for  a  substantial  church. 

Djang  Lo  Shu  is  ordinarily  a  quiet  little  place;  but 
this  morning,  it  is  all  a  bustle.  I  am  always  interested 
in  what  the  farmers  have  to  sell.  I  saw  some  sweet 
potatoes  here,  that  were  simply  enormous  in  size. 

After  dinner,  we  called  a  man  to  carry  our  luggage, 
and  walked  on  to  Lei  Yang,  a  distance  of  twelve  miles. 
It  was  a  pleasant  walk,  for  the  weather  was  fine.  The 
country  is  not  so  beautiful  as  in  springtime  and  sum- 
mer, when  the  rice  fields  are  covered  with  growing, 
living  green.  The  fields  are  dry  now,  but  the  country 
is  still  attractive. 

Several  of  the  people  we  met  on  the  road  to-day  took 
me  for  a  Catholic  missionary  who  often  passes  through 
this  region.  One  old  man  very  devoutly  knelt  in  the 
road  to  do  me  reverence.    I  made  haste  to  tell  him  that 


^^^sMl 


(123) 


124  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

I  was  not  the  "holy  father"  he  thought  I  was.  I  think 
less  of  my  newly  acquired  beard  since  this  experience. 
Most  of  the  Catholic  missionaries  in  China  are  heavily 
whiskered ;  hence  the  mistake. 

We  arrived  at  Lei  Yang  about  nightfall,  where  we 
received  a  warm  welcome.  The  friends  there  had  pre- 
pared a  feast  for  us,  to  which  we  did  full  justice. 

Lei  Yang  is  a  beautiful  little  city,  as  Chinese  cities 
go.  The  houses  are  well  made,  of  excellent  brick,  and 
kept  in  good  repair.  The  Roman  Catholics  have  a 
handsome  church  here. 

A  good  number  came  to  hear  the  Word  this  evening. 
I  don't  try  to  preach  much  at  Lei  Yang.  The  people 
here,  especially  the  country  people,  speak  practically 
a  different  dialect.  When  Brother  Hwang  talks  with 
the  country  people,  he  too  needs  an  interpreter. 

It  is  quite  trying  to  meet  so  many  local  dialects 
when  traveling  about.  I  understand  that  in  some  of 
the  other  provinces,  there  is  the  same  difficulty.  To 
illustrate:  In  the  parts  of  Hunan  that  I  have  visited, 
I  have  heard  the  Chinese  character  for  "man"  pro- 
nounced reen,  yine,  yin,  ween,  zren,  nyin,  hsin,  and  yun, 
with  variations. 

December  9 

A  sister  came  in  to-day,  complaining  bitterly.  In 
her  absence  on  Sabbath,  when  she  came  to  attend  serv- 
ice, her  house  was  entered  and  robbed.  She  wanted 
the  mission  to  take  the  matter  in  hand.  We  com- 
forted her  the  best  we  could,  explaining  to  her  the 
proper  relation  between  church  and  state,  and  that 
it  would  not  be  best  for  the  mission  to  do  anything 
about  the  matter.     There  is  little  hope  of  her  getting 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  125 

any  satisfaction,  for  the  Lei  Yang  country  is  notori- 
ously ill  governed. 

After  a  careful  examination  of  the  candidates  for 
baptism,  we  concluded  that  three  were  ready;  and  ac- 
cordingly the  baptismal  service  was  appointed  for  this 
afternoon.  One  of  the  candidates  is  an  elderly  man 
and  not  well.  After  he  had  been  accepted  for  baptism, 
he  came  in  and  said  that  as  he  was  in  pain  again,  he 
thought  he  had  better  wait  until  some  other  time.  I 
assured  him  that  he  needn't  fear  any  bad  results  from 
,f ollowing  his  Lord  in  baptism ;  so  he  took  courage,  and 
was  baptized  with  the  others.  As  we  returned  to  the 
chapel  after  the  service,  he  said  that  the  pain  was  all 
gone,  and  he  gave  God  the  glory. 

Our  little  church  here  now  numbers  fifteen.  Some 
of  the  members  live  thirty  li  away,  on  the  top  of  a 
little  mountain  called  Siao  Hwang  Sha,  "Small  Yellow 
Sand."  It  is  a  remarkable  place  in  which  to  live.  The 
top  of  the  mountain  —  if  it  can  properly  be  called  the 
"top" —  is  a  basin,  well  watered  with  numerous 
springs.  There  is  no  apparent  outlet;  but  some  little 
distance  from  the  edge  of  the  valley,  and  surrounded 
by  level  fields,  is  a  tiny  hillock,  with  two  holes  at  its 
base  —  entrances  to  two  caves.  Into  one  of  these 
caves,  the  surplus  water,  a  stream  of  considerable  size, 
plunges  headlong;  and  through  this  mysterious  pas- 
sage, it  finds  its  way  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 
The  other  cave  is  fairly  dry,  and  has  been  explored 
for  a  long  distance. 

This  mountain  top  is  peopled  by  a  branch  of  the 
Wang  tribe,  who  live  up  here  quite  apart  from  the  rest 
of  the  world.  They  seldom  leave  their  valley  except 
to  market  their  hemp  and  ginger  and  sweet  potatoes, 


126  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

which  grow  here  to  perfection.    They  are  a  sober,  in- 
dustrious people,  and  quite  friendly  to  the  gospel. 

The  oddest  thing  I  have  seen  in  Lei  Yang  is  a  grove 
outside  the  city  wall,  that  is  used  as  a  sort  of  halfway 
place  for  the  dead.  If  any  one  has  a  dead  body  that 
it  is  not  convenient  to  bury,  and  he  doesn't  care  to 
keep  it  in  the  house,  he  may  set  it  out  in  this  grove. 
I  think  that  is  the  idea.  At  any  rate,  there  are  a 
number  of  occupied  coffins  in  the  grove. 

December  10 

Those  who  have  never  lived  in  the  East  cannot  ap- 
preciate what  a  blessing  is  Western  promptness  and 
method.  Yesterday  I  asked  our  people  here  to  order- 
a  chair  for  me,  so  that  I  should  have  no  difficulty 
in  getting  away  from  Lei  Yang  very  early  this  morn- 
ing. The  brethren  did  the  best  they  could.  Some 
chair  bearers  were  here  at  the  chapel  until  late  last 
evening,  bargaining.  The  brethren  tried  to  make  a 
bargain  with  them,  but  thought  their  rates  unreason- 
able, so  it  took  a  long  time  to  talk  the  matter  through. 
This  morning,  the  chair  coolies  came;  but  after  much 
conversation,  they  decided  that  they  didn't  want  to 
make  the  trip  anyway,  the  roads  were  so  bad  in  the 
direction  in  which  I  v^^anted  to  go,  etc.  By  this  time, 
it  was  late,  and  no  other  men  were  available.  I  didn't 
leave  Lei  Yang  until  ten  o'clock,  and  then  I  walked. 
Brother  Hwang  and  I  separated  here,  he  returning  to 
his  station  at  Hen  Djou,  and  I  going  on  to  Yu  Hsien, 
where  the  next  outstation  is. 

My  road  to-day  wound  through  the  rice  fields  again, 
now  through  the  valleys,  now  around  steep  hillsides, 
with  level  paddy  fields  on  every  hand.  Wherever  there 
is  a  spring  or  stream  of  water,  the  hillsides  are  ter- 


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(127) 


128  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

raced.  Where  the  hillside  is  steep,  the  fields,  of  course, 
are  very  narrow.  For  the  most  part,  the  country  in 
this  Lei  Yang  district  is  very  fertile,  and  pretty. 

We  didn't  make  very  good  time.  My  carrier  was 
slow,  and  my  luggage  is  heavy,  so  we  walked  only 
twenty  miles.  We  arrived  at  Shi  Dzi  Gai  late  in  the 
evening.  We  passed  a  place,  to-day,  where  some 
people  were  just  finishing  a  funeral  feast.  As  the 
house  was  small,  and  the  guests  were  many,  the  tables 
were  set  in  the  narrow  street.  We  could  hardly  get 
past  the  place. 

The  Chinese  observe  one  funeral  custom  that  is  very 
amusing.  They  make  a  big  goose  (some  call  it  a  swan) 
of  yellow  paper.  They  are  very  clever  at  making  these 
paper  geese,  and  the  likeness  is  excellent.  They  perch 
the  creature  on  a  long  pole  above  the  house.  I  can't 
find  out  what  significance  this  custom  has.  Some 
say  that  the  spirit  takes  its  flight  into  the  other  world 
on  such  a  bird,  and  that  a  large  paper,  some  feet  in 
length  and  breadth,  is  posted  up  on  the  outside  wall 
of  the  house,  giving  notice  of  the  spirit's  departure, 
the  route  to  be  taken,  etc.  I  suppose  it  is  quite  dis- 
tressing to  the  family  concerned;  but  I  must  confess 
that  the  sight  of  these  geese  perched  on  high  im- 
presses me  very  cheerfully. 

The  people  in  this  part  of  Hunan  have  a  queer  way 
of  stacking  straw.  Instead  of  stacking  it  on  the 
ground,  they  put  it  up  a  tree,  fastening  it  by  bundles 
in  a  circle  to  the  trunk  of  the  tree.  The  stacks  are 
much  larger  than  one  would  think  possible,  and  quite 
shapely.  A  grove  of  pine  trees  decorated  in  this  man- 
ner is  a  grotesque  sight. 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  129 

This  truly  is  a  country  of  villages.  Scattered  farm- 
houses are  very  few.  By  village  I  don't  mean  a  post 
office,  a  blacksmith  shop,  a  grocery  store,  and  a  school- 
house.  I  mean  just  a  thick  cluster  of  houses;  for  the 
country  people  in  southern  Hunan  literally  live  in 
clusters.  In  a  day's  journey,  like  mine*  to-day,  one 
passes  through  scores  of  them. 

December  11 

Last  night,  we  slept  at  a  miserable  Chinese  inn  at 
Shi  Dzi  Gai.  It  was  an  evil-smelling  place,  and  had 
no  ventilation  to  speak  of. 

I  succeeded  this  morning  in  getting  a  chair,  and  we 
.started  out  early,  but  we  made  only  about  twenty-two 
miles  to-day.  One  of  the  chair  coolies  doesn't  seem  to 
be  up  to  the  mark.  The  road  led  through  a  somewhat 
wild  country,  much  of  it  uncultivated,  and  some  of  it 
well  wooded.  I  was  rather  glad  that  the  man  who 
carried  my  baggage  was  not  an  absolute  stranger.  He 
is  known  to  our  people,  and  is  interested  in  the  truth. 
It  was  a  great  pleasure  to  travel  through  some  forest, 
and  I  saw  the  first  squirrel  to-day  that  I  have  seen 
since  leaving  America. 

About  dusk,  we  arrived  at  Djang  Lan  Wang,  and  I 
happened  accidentally  upon  the  only  Christian  in  that 
place.  I  made  my  supper  of  what  the  Chinese  call  bno 
dzi, —  hot  steamed  bread,  with  brown  sugar  inside, — 
(juite  eatable.  Much  to  my  relief,  I  found  a  room  that 
I  could  have  to  myself,  and  locked  myself  in. 

Di:cembp:r  12 
I  have  seen  much  holly  to-day,  and  the  sight  of  the 
gay,  cherry-colored  berries  has  added  to  the  pleasure 
of  the  journey.     During  the  forenoon,  we  came  to  an 


130  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

orange-growing  district.  I  bought  nine  big  oranges 
for  five  coppers.  I  thought  of  some  of  our  dear  people 
at  home,  probably  paying  fifty  cents  a  dozen  (those 
who  can  afford  to  buy  any),  and  wished  they  could 
share  this  treat  with  me.  At  noon,  one  of  the  chair 
bearers  —  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  I  have  been  walk- 
ing half  the  way  —  played  out,  declared  that  he  was 
exhausted,  and  would  go  no  farther.  I  paid  the  men 
for  the  distance  we  had  come,  and  finished  the  journey 
on  foot,  arriving  at  Yu  Hsien  about  an  hour  before 
the  Sabbath. 

In  the  evening,  I  preached  to  a  good  crowd,  some 
eager  to  listen  to  the  Word,  others  merely  curious  to 
hear  a  foreigner  talk.    I  am  well  understood  here. 

December  13  (Sabbath) 

This  has  been  a  blessed  and  very  full  day.  At  every 
outstation,  I  make  a  point  of  talking  with  all  the 
church  members  individually  as  to  their  religious  ex- 
perience; and  on  Sabbath  days,  there  is  usually  a 
splendid  opportunity.  Then  I  make  suggestions  as  to 
the  betterment  of  the  Sabbath  school,  counsel  with  the 
evangelist,  and  usually  conduct  the  ordinances  and  lead 
out  in  a  consecration  service. 

The  Lord  has  been  blessing  in  this  place  of  late. 
Formerly  there  was  some  dissension  among  the  be- 
lievers, but  all  are  united  again.  Four  went  forward 
in  baptism  to-day,  three  of  whom  were  sisters.  Then, 
for  the  sixth  time  within  a  month,  I  had  the  privilege 
of  meeting  with  my  Chinese  brethren  and  sisters 
around  the  table  of  our  Lord. 

About  noon,  twelve  men,  members  of  the  only  other 
mission  here,  came  to  pay  their  respects.  Our  earnest 
preacher,    Dzao,    took    advantage    of    their    visit    to 


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(131) 


132  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

pi-esent  to  them  some  phases  of  the  threefold  message. 
If  he  maintains  the  same  zeal  and  tact  that  he  dis- 
played to-day,  surely  some  of  these  people  will  accept 
the  truth  for  this  time.  The  other  missionary  society 
here  felt  very  bitter  when  we  entered  this  place  to 
labor,  and  they  do  what  they  can  to  hinder  their  people 
from  coming  to  us;  but  in  time,  the  honest-hearted 
will  be  gathered  out.  We  prefer,  in  the  mission  field, 
to  carry  the  gospel  first  to  those  who  have  never  heard 
it;  but  we  could  no  longer  resist  the  appeal  made  by 
those  in  this  place  who  were  interested  in  the  third 
angel's  message. 

I  am  pleased  with  the  sisters  who  were  baptized  to- 
day. They  look  as  if  they  would  be  a  substantial  ad- 
dition to  our  church.  It  is  encouraging  that  so  soon 
after  the  opening  of  our  chapel  here,  three  women 
have  accepted  Jesus  as  their  Saviour.  They  have  un- 
bound their  feet,  discarded  their  earrings  and  other 
ornaments,  and  seem  to  give  evidence  of  a  genuine 
change  of  heart. 

December  14 

I  have  been  visiting  to-day  with  our  evangelist  and 
the  believers.  Dzao  has  been  an  inspiration  to  me  on 
account  of  his  prayerf ulness ;  and  some  of  the  be- 
lievers have  been  so  enthusiastic  in  the  message,  that 
my  soul  has  been  fed.  • 

At  home,  we  have  hard  work  to  persuade  our  people 
to  enter  the  colporteur  work;  but  in  Hunan,  we  have 
no  trouble  on  that  score.  Even  if  they  have  a  good 
means  of  getting  a  livelihood,  many  of  them  are  eager 
to  be  in  the  Lord's  work. 

One  brother  sixty  years  old  has  been  asking  me  if 
he  can  canvass  for  our  literature.    He  is  a  mason,  and 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  138 

gets  along  fairly  well  at  his  trade,  and  we  have  as 
many  colporteurs  now  as  we  can  look  after  well;  so 
I  tried  to  dissuade  him.  I  told  him  that  Yu  Hsien  is 
a  small  town,  and  that  in  order  to  make  a  living,  he 
would  have  to  leave  home  and  travel  about,  that  he 
was  too  old  to  walk  and  endure  hardship.  He  replied 
that  he  and  his  wife  didn't  need  much, —  only  a  little 
rice  and  greens  to  eat.  They  had  already  given  up 
tobacco  and  pork  for  the  truth,  and  were  not  afraid  of 
added  hardship.  The  old  man  made  me  feel  a  bit 
ashamed  of  myself  and  of  some  of  our  people  at  home. 

The  brethren  and  sisters  made  their  week-of-prayer 
offering  to-day.  It  was  not  large  —  only  a  few  dollars ; 
but  I  was  pleased.  I  know  that  some  of  them  actually 
sacrificed  —  that  they  "gave  until  they  felt  it." 

In  the  evening,  they  came  bringing  me  things  to  eat 
on  the  journey  to-morrow.  Brother  Dzao,  knowing 
that  I  am  fond  of  roast  sweet  potatoes,  brought  me 
about  a  peck.  One  brother  brought  oranges.  Another 
brought  cookies. 

December  15 

It  was  cold  and  drizzly  this  morning,  and  the  men 
whom  I  had  engaged  didn't  want  to  go.  By  and  by,  it 
stopped  raining;  but  the  roads  are  very  slippery,  and 
we  won't  get  started  now  until  to-morrow. 

I  have  found  a  good  deal  of  comfort  to-day  huddling 
over  a  little  charcoal  stove.  Brother  Dzao  and  I  went 
out  to  visit  an  old  pagoda  this  afternoon.  It  is  about 
sixty  feet  high,  with  a  spiral  stone  staircase  inside. 
There  was  a  good  view  of  Yu  Hsien  from  the  upper 
windows,  but  nothing  of  special  interest  inside  ex- 
cept  some   memorial    tablets.      We   had   a   season    of 


k 


134  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

prayer  out  there  on  the  hilltop,  and  came  back  feeling 
refreshed  and  strengthened. 

December  16 

I  got  an  early  start  to-day,  and  am  fortunate  to  have 
a  man  with  a  wheelbarrow  to  carry  my  baggage.  I 
wanted  one  for  myself,  as  they  are  much  cheaper  than 
chairs;  but  there  was  only  one  to  be  had.  On  my 
former  trip  from  Yu  Hsien,  I  went  by  wheelbarrow. 
The  conveyances  lack  springs  and  back,  otherwise  they 
would  be  quite  comfortable.  They  are  different  from 
American  wheelbarrows  —  the  wheel  is  much  larger, 
and  is  in  the  middle  of  the  barrow. 

The  chair  coolies  were  inclined  to  grumble,  as  usual, 
because  I  was  so  heavy ;  but  I  got  out  several  times  and 
walked,  and  we  all  got  through  the  day  quite  good- 
naturedly.  At  noon,  I  warmed  up  some  of  my  roasted 
sweet  potatoes,  and  they  tasted  good.  I  gathered  as 
much  holly  to-day  as  I  can  take  home  with  me. 

I  saw  a  touching  scene  to-night,  and  one  I  shall  never 
forget, —  a  big  boy  in  his  teens  caressing  his  old 
mother.  I  wouldn't  have  missed  seeing  it  for  dollars. 
It  was  encouraging,  for  it  is  a  rare  sight  indeed  in 
China.    It  made  that  old  Chinese  inn  look  homelike. 

December  17 

To-day  has  been  much  like  yesterday,  rather  un- 
interesting. This  must  be  because  I  am  nearing  the 
end  of  my  trip,  for  every  day  has  its  surprises.  At  the 
end  of  two  years'  residence  in  China,  I  am  still  on 
"enchanted  ground." 

One  thing  that  has  come  to  me  as  a  novelty  is  that 
the  chestnuts  here  don't  wait  for  Jack  Frost  to  open 


\ 


H 
K 
O 

b 

S 
O 

o 

< 

U 

K 

< 


O 

o 


(135) 


136  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

the  bur ;  they  are  two  months  ahead  of  him.    That,  to 
a  New  Englander,  is  incomprehensible. 

But  everything  is  different  in  China.  In  rowing,  the 
Chinese  push  instead  of  pull.  When  greeting  their 
friends,  they  shake  their  own  hands  instead  of  their 
friends'  hands.  They  dress  in  white  when  they  are 
mourning  their  dead.  They  write  their  books  wrong 
side  before.  Even  the  crows  are  different.  Most  of 
these  Hunan  crows  wear  a  great  white  collar.  They 
look  as  if  "Fairbanks  twins"  had  been  here,  and  left 
at  the  beginning  of  their  work. 

In  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  rain  set  in,  and  it 
was  bitterly  cold.  The  chair  bearers  refused  to  go 
any  farther,  and  we  had  to  put  up  for  the  night  at  an 
inn.  It  was  a  typical  country  inn,  the  house  being 
built  out  over  the  highway. 

In  the  evening,  the  Chinese  built  a  fire  on  the  floor, 
and  fed  it  with  straw  until  bedtime.  It  was  very 
smoky,  but  cheery  nevertheless.  Sitting  in  the  circle, 
chatting  with  the  Chinese,  I  could  almost  imagine  that 
I  was  a  Chinese  too.  I  tested  a  package  of  sweetmeats 
that  some  of  the  people  in  Yu  Hsien  had  brought  for 
me.  The  flavor  was  suspiciously  like  pork  fat;  so  I 
distributed  them  among  the  Chinese,  who  were  de- 
lighted. I  rather  think  that  for  once  I  was  the  "lion 
of  the  occasion." 

I  had  been  congratulating  myself  on  having  a  nice 
room  for  the  night;  but  at  bedtime,  I  found  that  the 
door  could  not  be  closed.  However,  there  was  no  other 
room  available. 

December  18 

To-day  I  have  been  in  a  real  flutter  of  excitement, 
for  I  am  nearing  home.     We  got  started  very  early 


THROUGH  THE  PADDY  FIELDS  137 

this  morning;  and  as  there  is  a  fine  gravel  road  lead- 
ing to  Li  Ling,  the  men  walked  briskly,  and  we  made 
fine  time.  We  went  through  a  country  where  the 
women  have  unbound  feet.     It  was  good  to  see  them. 

We  arrived  in  Li  Ling  about  nine  o'clock,  just  in 
time  for  breakfast.  As  Brother  Cottrell  visited  this 
station  recently,  I  stopped  here  only  a  few  hours,  talk- 
ing with  Evangelist  Wu  and  some  of  the  brethren  who 
happened  in.  This  afternoon,  I  took  the  train  for 
Changsha.  I  have  been  traveling  for  a  month  in  a 
kind  of  horseshoe  course,  and  boarded  the  train  this 
afternoon  only  a  few  stations  above  where  I  got  off  a 
few  weeks  ago. 

Now  I  am  on  the  home  stretch.  I  have  started  every 
one  in  the  car,  who  recognizes  characters,  to  reading  a 
tract,  and  I  am  very  happy.  It  will  be  good  to  be  at 
home  again,  to  see  my  dear  ones,  to  sleep  in  a  soft 
bed,  and  converse  in  my  native  'tongue. 

We  are  almost  there  now.  I  have  been  peering  im- 
patiently out  into  the  darkness  for  some  time,  and 
humming  "Home,  Sweet  Home." 

May  God  bless  the  workers  and  believers  at  these 
outstations,  till  I  see  them  again. 


Entering  Szechuan  Province 

F.  A.  Allum 

Early  in  the  spring  of  1914,  M.  C.  Warren  and  I 
left  Shanghai  to  take  the  first  trip  made  by  Seventh- 
day  Adventist  missionaries  to  the  far  distant  province 
of  Szechuan.  We  had  before  us  more  than  two  thou- 
sand miles  of  travel,  mostly  by  river  boats  —  a  distance 
that  could  not  be  covered  in  less  than  two  months.  We 
left  Shanghai  on  March  3,  and  had  a  very  pleasant 
trip  to  Hankow.  While  on  the  boat,  I  sold  forty  copies 
of  our  Chinese  Signs. 

We  were  met  at  Hankow  by  Frederick  Lee  and  S.  G. 
White,  and  had  a  pleasant  visit  with  the  brethren  there. 
On  March  11,  we  went  from  Hankow  to  Yencheng, 
Honan,  by  train.  The  day  we  left  Hankow,  the  daily 
paper  had  an  account  of  the  killing,  by  White  Wolf's 
band  of  robbers,  of  a  Norwegian  missionary.  Dr.  Fro- 
land.  They  also  severely  wounded  another  missionary 
of  the  same  mission.  This  took  place  at  Laohokau,  in 
northern  Hupeh. 

However,  we  had  a  pleasant  and  safe  journey  to 
Yencheng.  We  saw  numerous  bands  of  soldiers  on 
their  way  to  fight  White  Wolf  and  his  robbers,  who 
are  estimated  to  be  about  three  thousand  men.  The 
railway  seemed  carefully  guarded,  and  soldiers  were 
stationed  at  nearly  every  bridge.  According  to  the 
reports  of  native  Christians,  conditions  have  improved 
in  eastern  Honan ;  but  the  western  part,  which  is  very 
mountainous,  is  still  in  the  hands  of  the  robbers. 

Our  object  in  going  to  Honan  was  to  select  Chinese 
workers  to  go  with  us  to  Szechuan.  R.  F.  Cottrell, 
superintendent  of  the  Central  China  Mission,  and  his 
(138) 


([.','.)) 


140 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


committee,  generously  allowed  us  perfect  freedom  to 
select  any  workers  who  were  willing  to  go.  After  an 
earnest  season  of  prayer  with  J.  J.  Westrup  and  the 
Chinese  members  of  the  Honan  committee,  two  men 
were  chosen.  Their  names  are  Dju  Dzi  Ih  and  Shi 
Yung  Gwei.  Both  men  expressed  their  willingness  to 
go  wherever  God  called  them.  One  of  these  men  had 
to  travel  ninety  li  (thirty  miles)  on  Friday  to  his 
home  to  acquaint  his  wife  with  the  suggestion  that 
they  now  labor  in  Szechuan.  These  devoted  people 
packed  their  belongings  Saturday  night  after  sundown, 
and  on  Sunday  traveled  ninety  li  to  the  railway  station 
in  order  to  take  the  train  next  morning  for  Hankow. 


ENTRANCE  TO  A  TEMPLE  AT  KUNSHAN.      A  FAMILY  OF  SIX 
PERSONS   MAKE  THEIR   HOME   IN   THE   HOUSE  BOAT 


ENTERING  SZECHUAN   PROVINCE  141 

The  other  evangelist  got  ready  equally  fast.  This 
shows  how  the  spirit  of  this  message  can  stir  the 
Oriental,  and  make  him  truly  God's  minuteman. 

After  our  return  to  Hankow,  another  worker,  Li  Fah 
Kung,  was  selected.  He  also  is  of  Honan,  and  is  a 
faithful  man.  We  did  not  see  him  before  we  left  Han- 
kow, but  waited  for  him  in  Ichang,  which  place  is  four 
hundred  miles  west  of  Hankow,  and  one  thousand 
miles  from  Shanghai.  Here  we  made  arrangements 
to  take  a  native  boat  for  Chungking,  Szechuan,  which 
is  over  four  hundred  miles  from  Ichang. 

We  were  very  fprtunate  in  securing  our  house  boat, 
which  had  three  good-sized  rooms,  and  plenty  of  deck 
space;  in  fact,  it  was  the  largest  Chinese  boat  on 
which  I  had  ever  traveled.  The  captain  had  several 
letters  of  recommendation,  written  in  English,  from 
well-known  missionaries,  in  which  they  stated  that  he 
was  a  reliable  man.  In  all  this,  we  recognized  our 
heavenly  Father's  leading.  The  price  for  the  boat, 
including  such  Chinese  food  as  they  served,  was  $115, 
Mexican.  This  favorable  price  was  due  in  a  large  de- 
gree to  our  faithful  evangelist,  Dju  Dzi  Ih. 

The  captain  of  our  boat  guaranteed,  in  his  written 
contract,  to  land  us  in  Chungking  twenty-one  days 
after  we  left  Ichang.  We  arranged  to  have  the  boat 
stop  every  Say)bath  from  sun.set  to  sunset,  and  planned 
to  improve  our  opportunities  to  preach  to  the  people 
at  the  places  where  we  stayed  over  the  Sabbath. 

From  thi.s  time  on,  I  will  let  this  account  take  the 
form  of  notes  from  my  diary. 

March  27 

We  left  Ichang  by  a  native  house  boat,  which  somo 
one  has  said  resembles  a  gypsy  caravan  afloat. 


142  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

Before  leaving  Ichang,  the  boat  people  killed  a  fowl 
and  spilled  the  blood  on  the  front  of  the  boat,  and  also 
stuck  some  of  the  feathers  on  both  sides  of  the  boat 
at  the  front,  and  placed  some  on  each  side  of  the  front 
cabin,  and  also  in  the  middle.  The  captain's  wife  beat 
a  gong  vigorously;  and  at  the  same  time,  they  burned 
paper  money  and  fired  off  crackers.  They  reason  that 
if  they  only  burn  paper  money  and  do  not  fire  off 
crackers,  the  gods  will  not  know  that  they  are  worship- 
ing them.  The  whole  system  of  heathen  worship  is  to 
pacify  the  evil  spirits,  which  are  said  to  make  their 
home  in  the  waters  of  the  great  Yangtze  Kiang. 

Our  boat  ascended  the  stream  about  one  mile,  and 
then  we  anchored,  as  the  captain  had  not  finished  his 
preparations  for  the  journey.  As  he  will  not  come 
on  board  until  sundown,  we  shall  remain  at  this  place 
over  the  Sabbath. 

March  28 
We  spent  a  very  pleasant  Sabbath.  In  the  morning, 
we  had  Sabbath  school;  and  afterward  I  spoke  to  the 
crew  of  our  boat,  who  number  eighteen  in  all.  I  con- 
cluded my  remarks  with  an  appeal  to  them  to  give  up 
smoking  and  the  drinking  of  wine.  One  man  decided 
right  away  that  he  would  not  smoke  any  more,  and 
immediately  threw  his  pipe  into  the  river.    He  has  not 

smoked  since. 

March  29 

Leaving  Ichang  about  6  a.  m.,  we  sailed  almost  due 

north  for  about  five  miles,  and  at  this  point  turned 

west  and  entered  the  famous  Ichang  gorge.    One  who 

has  traveled  in  nearly  every  part  of  the  world  says  of 

this  gorge,  "It  looked  as  if  we  were  sailing  through 

a  chain  of  mountain  lakes." 


ENTERING  SZECHUAN  PROVINCE  143 

Having  a  favorable  vi^ind,  we  soon  arrived  at  a  place 
called  Hwang  Ling  Miao,  thirty  miles  from  Ichang. 
Here  I  took  a  picture  of  the  many  rope  sheds.  There 
must  be  at  least  twenty  miles  of  rope  for  sale  here. 
These  ropes  are  made  out  of  bamboo,  and  are  used  for 
hauling  the  boats  up  the  rapids. 

About  7  p.  m.,  we  came  to  the  first  dangerous  rapid, 
called  Ta  Dung.  We  had  already  passed  two  rapids 
to-day.  It  took  us  over  half  an  hour  to  pass  this  rapid 
and  make  three  hundred  feet  up  the  river.  We  an- 
chored for  the  night  above  the  rapid.  In  all,  we  made 
120  li  to-day  (about  forty  miles).  This  is  splendid 
for  China.    Truly  God  has  been  good  to  us. 

March  30 

We  left  our  anchorage  above  the  Ta  Dung  rapid 
about  6  a.  m.  A  head  wind  was  blowing,  so  we  made 
slow  progress.  About  9  a.  m.,  we  arrived  at  a  place 
called  Tung  Ling  Tan,  where  we  stayed  until  2  p.  m. 
A  little  after  this  hour,  we  slowly  crossed  the  Tung 
Ling  rapid.  Here  the  passage  is  very  dangerous,  for 
there  are  many  rocks  hidden  in  these  whirling  waters, 
and  right  in  the  middle  of  the  stream  lies  an  enormous 
rock,  which  may  be  forty  feet  above  the  stream  or  as 
much  below  it,  according  to  the  condition  of  the  river. 
It  was  here  that  the  German  steamer  "Sui  Hsiang" 
was  lost.  She  struck  this  rock,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
sank  in  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  of  water.  Thirty 
missionaries  were  on  board;  but  only  one  foreigner, 
the  captain,  lost  his  life.  However,  many  Chinese  were 
drowned.  Among  these  was  the  son  of  a  mandarin, 
who  was  returning  to  Wan  Hsien.  His  servant  helped 
him  into  the  "red  boat"  (the  Chinese  lifeboat)  ;  but 
he,  seeing  no  immediate  danger,  foolishly  returned  to 


i 


144  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

the  steamer  to  secure  some  valuables  that  were  in  his 
trunks.  Before  he  could  secure  them,  the  vessel  sank, 
and  he  was  lost.  Thus,  on  the  one  hand,  we  see  God's 
special  protection  over  the  missionaries,  and  on  the 
other,  the  loss  of  life  of  those  who  trusted  in  uncer- 
tain riches. 

After  ascending  the  Tung  Ling  rapid,  we  stayed 
some  time  at  the  Tung  Ling  village,  and  finally  crossed 
the  first  and  second  rapids  at  Tsin  Tan,  and  arrived 
at  the  third  rapid  about  6  p.  m.  This  rapid  at  low 
water  is  the  most  dangerous  one  on  the  river.  Here 
many  boats  are  wrecked  and  many  lives  lost.  The  loss 
of  life  would  be  greater  but  that  the  Chinese  have 
stationed  lifeboats  at  all  dangerous  points  on  the  river. 

We  anchored  below  this  rapid  for  the  night;  for  at 
6 :  30  p.  m.,  there  were  no  fewer  than  twelve  boats 
ahead  of  us,  and  each  boat  must  wait  its  turn  to  be 
hauled  up  the  rapid,  as  the  passage  is  not  wide. 

March  31 

We  did  not  try  to  cross  the  Tsin  Tan  rapid  until 
3:  15  p.  m.  When  we  did  try,  I  had  about  the  most 
thrilling  and  dangerous  experience  I  ever  had  in  China. 
Brother  Warren  had  already  safely  gone  up  the  rapid 
on  another  boat,  and  was  on  the  shore  taking  pictures 
of  our  boat  as  it  ascended  the  rapid.  All  the  Chinese 
Christians  being  on  the  shore,  I  was  the  only  one  of 
our  party  on  board.  We  had  seen  a  good  many  boats 
go  up  safely,  and  therefore  did  not  think  we  should 
have  much  trouble.  But  the  captain  was  on  shore 
directing  the  efforts  of  the  fifty  or  sixty  "trackers" 
who  were  to  pull  the  boat  up  the  rapid,  and  the  pilot 
in  command  made  the  mistake  of  launching  out  too 


ENTERING  SZECHUAN  PROVINCE 


145 


far  into  the  rapid,  and  thus  allowed  the  boat  to  dip 
into  a  whirlpool,  and  it  shipped  so  much  water  that 
all  the  front  compartments  were  filled,  and  then  it 
keeled  over  so  badly  that  all  thought  it  was  going  to 
turn  over.  I  climbed  with  difficulty  to  the  highest  side 
of  the  boat  and  prepared  to  swim  for  my  life. 


RAPIDS  IN  THE  UPPER  YANGTZE,  AT  LOW  LEVEL  STAGE  —  THE 
FIRST  OF  THE  EXPENSIVE  RELAY  POINTS  IN  RIVER  TRAFFIC 

It  would  have  been  a  terrible  swim,  and  might  have 
ended  fatally,  for  the  water  was  rushing  by  with 
tremendous  force.  However,  God's  protecting  hand 
was  over  me,  and  the  man  in  command  cut  the  tow- 
line  with  a  hatchet  at  just  the  right  time,  and  the 
boat  righted  itself.  The  next  danger  was  that  it  would 
sink,  owing  to  the  large  amount  of  water  that  it  had 
shipped;  but  by  the  frantic  efforts  of  the  crew,  the 

10 


146  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

water  was  quickly  bailed  out,  and  the  boat  was  beached. 
During  this  time,  I  was  working  hard  to  get  our  things 
out  of  the  hold  of  the  boat,  in  order  that  they  should 
not  be  spoiled  by  the  water.  On  the  boat's  reaching 
the  shore,  Brother  Warren  assisted  me  in  this  work. 
One  of  my  boxes  of  books  was  damaged  by  water,  and 
our  provisions  also  suffered. 

We  realized  that  God's  word  was  fulfilled  to  us  in  a 
wonderful  way  in  this  experience.  We  had  just  read 
at  our  noonday  prayer  meeting  Isa.  43 :  2 :  "When  thou 
passest  through  the  waters,  I  will  be  with  thee;  and 
through  the  rivers,  they  shall  not  overflow  thee." 
Surely  this  scripture  was  fulfilled  to  us  in  a  literal 
way.  To  our  heavenly  Father  we  offer  sincerest 
thanks,  for  He  heard  our  prayers. 

Our  Bible  woman  told  me,  after  it  was  all  over,  that 
her  twelve-year-old  boy  cried  bitterly  when  he  saw  the 
danger  I  was  in,  and  then  he  prayed  to  the  Lord  to  save 
me.  He  is  a  fine  little  fellow,  and  always  gives  good 
testimonies  in  our  social  meetings.  At  present,  as  we 
have  no  cook  with  us,  he  is  acting  as  our  cook,  and  is 
rendering  good  service. 

April  1 

As  I  write  this,  I  am  sitting  in  a  Chinese  inn  facing 
the  river.  In  the  distance  I  can  see  our  boat,  with  the 
Australian  flag  still  flying  at  the  mast,  and  the  Chinese 
flag  at  the  stern.  I  am  encouraging  the  captain  to 
try  again  to-day  to  cross  the  rapid.  He,  poor  fellow, 
has  had  his  many  bags  of  rice  soaked,  and  is  not  feel- 
ing any  too  happy  about  the  matter;  and  besides,  what 
is  worse  than  all,  he  says  he  has  "lost  face."  However, 
I  think  he  will  try  again  to-day.  We  are  taking  our 
goods  off  the  boat  and  having  them  carried  above  the 


ENTERING  SZECHUAN  PROVINCE  147 

rapid ;  so  if  the  boat  goes  down  this  time,  we  and  our 
goods  will  be  safe. 

To-day  no  fewer  than  four  boats  have  been  wrecked 
at  this  place,  and  one  man  lost  his  life.  The  others 
were  saved  by  the  lifeboats.  In  one  case,  they  also 
saved  a  dozen  pigs,  which  were  thrown  into  the  river 
when  the  boat  was  wrecked. 

Since  writing  the  above,  I  have  helped  the  trackers 
pull  our  boat  up  the  rapid.  We  had  more  than  sixty 
men  on  shore  pulling;  and  with  the  men  on  the  boat, 
there  must  have  been  over  seventy  engaged  in  this 
work.  These  men  pulled  like  mules  to  get  the  boat  up 
the  raging  water.  The  whippers  (leaders  of  the 
trackers)  .screamed,  cur.sed,  and  struck  the  men  in 
order  to  make  them  pull  harder.  We  had  two  long 
bamboo  towlines  attached  to  the  boat.  One  of  these 
lines  was  thirty-six  hundred  feet  long,  and  was  se- 
cured to  a  stone  pillar  on  the  shore.  The  other  was 
more  than  one  thousand  feet  long.  Two  safety  lines 
were  fastened  to  rocks  nearer  the  boat.  These  emer- 
gency ropes  save  the  boat  from  being  dashed  on  the 
rocks  if  the  two  towlines  part.  The  captain  frantically 
shouted  his  commands  to  the  first  whipper,  and  he  in 
turn  passed  the  command  along  to  the  next  whipper, 
and  finally  it  reached  the  men,  accompanied  with 
curses  and  blows. 

"Some  idea  of  the  force  of  this  enormous  volume  of 
water  may  be  given  by  mentioning  the  exploits  of  the 
steamship  'Pioneer,'  which  on  three  con.secutive  oc- 
casions attacked  this  rapid  [that  is,  Yeh  Tan  rapid, 
which  is  not  so  fierce  as  the  Tsin  Tan  ]  when  at  its 
worst,  and,  although  steaming  a  good  fourteen  knots 
an  hour,  failed  to  pass.     She  was  obliged  to  lay  out  a 


148 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


long  steel  hawser  and  heave  herself  over  by  means  of 
her  windlass,  the  engines  working  at  full  speed  at  the 
same  time.  Hard  and  heavy  was  the  strain,  gaining 
foot  by  foot,  with  a  tension  on  the  hawser  almost  to 
the  breaking  strain  —  a  veritable  battle  it  seemed  with 
the  mighty  dragon  of  the  Yangtze." 

This  gives  some  idea  of  the  tremendous  force  of  the 
water  at  these  rapids.    However,  I  am  glad  to  say  that 


CARGO  BOAT  ON  THE   HAN   RIVER 


our  boat  crossed  safely,  and  by  9:30  p.  m.  all  our 
things  were  once  more  on  board,  and  by  10 :  30  we 
went  to  bed.  I  was  tired,  very  tired,  and  slept  like  a 
child  until  next  morning. 

April  2 
We  left  Tsin  Tan  about  10  a.  m.;  and,  having  a 
strong,  favorable  wind,  we  traveled  fast.  During  the 
day,  we  passed  several  rapids,  but  they  were  not  so 
dangerous.  At  one  place,  our  towline  broke,  and  we 
drifted  downstream;  but  as  we  were  not  in  a  danger- 
ous place,  no  harm  was  done.  Farther  on  we  saw  a 
number  of  wrecks.     The  poor  boat  people  managed 


ENTERING  SZECHUAN   PROVINCE  149 

to  save  a  lot  of  cargo  from  the  river,  and  have  it  on 
the  banks  of  the  river  drying  in  the  sun. 

The  first  place  we  passed  after  leaving  Tsin  Tan 
rapid  v^^as  Hsiang  Chi.  Here  we  saw  cuttings  for  the 
Hankow-Szechuan  Railway. 

We  passed  Yeh  Tan  rapid  (the  one  referred  to  in 
the  preceding  quotation)  at  3  p.  m.,  without  difficulty. 
There  we  saw  nearly  a  score  of  tents  belonging  to  men 
who  are  surveying  the  railway  line  to  Szechuan. 
Farther  on,  at  a  small  place  called  Ba  Dou,  we  saw  two 
foreigners  and  a  number  of  Chinese  surveyors  also 
engaged  in  surveying  the  route  for  this  railway.  It 
seems  that  erelong  our  field  will  be  connected  with  the 
rest  of  China  by  railway.  Thus  these  men  are  un- 
consciously helping  to  spread  the  third  angel's  mes- 
sage by  preparing  quick  means  of  communication. 

April  3 
At  12 :  30  to-day,  we  leave  the  province  of  Hupeh  and 
cross  into  Szechuan.  It  is  inspiring  to  us  to  realize 
that  after  a  delay  of  five  years  (it  is  five  years  since  I 
was  first  appointed  to  this  field),  the  message  is  at  last 
to  go  to  the  88,000,000  people  of  West  China.  We 
read  Rev.  14:6-14.  Thank  God,  His  word  will  never 
fail;  and  this  message  will  go  to  all  the  world  in  this 
generation,  and  then  will  the  end  come. 

April  4 
Last  night,  strange  to  say,  it  snowed  upon  the  moun- 
tain tops;  so  to-day  it  is  very  cold.  The  wind  is  still 
favorable,  and  soon  we  shall  reach  Kweichowfu,  a 
city  of  about  40,000  people.  We  have  already  made 
thirty  miles  to-day,  and  it  is  only  11  a.  m.  This  is  fast 
traveling  for  China. 


150  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

We  arrived  at  Kweichowfu  about  twelve  o'clock. 
A  little  below  this  city  is  a  celebrated  brine  well,  on  a 
small  island,  or  sand  bank.  The  salt  water  is  dipped 
up  in  buckets  and  emptied  into  wooden  troughs, 
through  which  it  runs  to  large  iron  pans.  There 'is 
enough  brine  to  keep  one  hundred  and  twenty  large 
pans  constantly  in  use  during  the  season  the  well  is 
worked.  One  authority  says  that  one  million  five 
hundred  thousand  pounds  of  salt  are  made  here  an- 
nually. This  island  is  above  water  only  from  January 
to  May,  and  the  manufacture  is  confined  to  those 
months. 

In  the  city  of  Kweichow  is  a  noted  Roman  Catholic 
church  which  is  said  to  date  from  1662.  This  shows 
how  early  the  papacy  entered  this  part  of  China. 

April  5 

We  stayed  in  a  small  market  town  over  Sabbath. 
It  is  called  An  Pin,  which  means  "rest"  and  "peace." 

We  had  Sabbath  school  at  11  a.  m.,  and  then  organ- 
ized the  first  Sabbath  school  in  Szechuan.  We  elected 
M.  C.  Warren  superintendent,  and  Dju,  our  Chi- 
nese evangelist,  secretary.  After  this,  we  entered  the 
town,  and  the  evangelist  and  I  spoke  to  the  crowd  that 
soon  gathered.  The  people  listened  well,  and  our  own 
souls  were  refreshed  as  we  told  the  story  of  the  cross. 
In  the  afternoon,  I  held  a  Bible  study  with  a  Christian 
from  another  boat,  which  was  detained  by  adverse 
winds.   We  studied  the  three  messages  of  Revelation  14. 

April  6 
We  left  An  Pin  early  Sunday  morning;  and  at  11 
a.  m.,  we  passed  another  rapid.     We  finally  anchored 
below  the  Shintu  Lung  (New  Dragon)  rapid,  which  is 


ENTERING  SZECHUAN   PROVINCE  151 

regarded  as  the  worst  rapid  in  Szechuan,  just  as  the 
Tsin  Tan  is  regarded  as  the  worst  in  Hupeh.  This 
rapid  constitutes  the  last  formidable  stepping  stone, 
during  low  water,  en  route  to  Chungking. 

"It  was  formed  by  a  landslip  as  recently  as  1896, 
when  the  whole  side  of  a  hill  falling  into  the  stream 
reduced  its  breadth  to  less  than  a  fourth  of  what  it 
was  previously,  and  produced  this  roaring  rapid.  Ac- 
cording to  Chinese  myths,  the  landslip  which  produced 
the  rapid  was  caused  by  the  following  circumstances: 
The  ovum  of  a  dragon  was  deposited  in  the  bowels  of 
the  earth  at  this  particular  spot,  which  in  due  course 
became  hatched  out  in  some  mysterious  manner.  The 
baby  dragon  grew  and  grew,  but  remained  in  a  dor- 
mant state  until  quite  full-grown,  when,  as  is  the  habit 
of  the  dragon,  it  became  active,  and  at  first  awaken- 
ing, shook  down  the  hillside  by  a  mighty  effort,  freed 
itself  from  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  and  made  its  way 
down.stream  to  the  sea;  hence  the  landslip,  the  rapid, 

and  its  name." 

April  7 

About  7  a.  m.  this  morning,  we  began  to  ascend  the 

Shin  Lung  rapid,  which  we  passed  in  half  an  hour. 

Now  we  are  over  the  worst  of  the  rapids ;  in  fact,  the 

captain  tells  us  that  the  others  are  of  no  importance. 

We  are  indeed  glad,  for  we  have  seen  no  fewer  than 

thirteen  wrecks  thus  far.     Nearly  all  these  were  boats 

that  were  going  downstream.    We  had  hoped  to  reach 

Wan  Hsien  to-day,  but  the  wind  is  not  favorable.    We 

have  not  made  over  twenty-six  miles  to-day. 

April  H 
We  arrived  at  Wan  Hsien  about  12:.'i0.     This  city 
is  beautifully  situated  on  the  left  hank  of  the  Yangtze. 


152  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

It  is  the  finest  city  we  have  yet  seen  in  Szechuan.  At 
nine  o'clock  in  the  evening,  we  anchored  at  a  small 
place  called  Yang  Ho  Gi.  We  have  made  only  thirty 
miles  to-day. 

April  9 

About  5  p.  m.  to-day,  we  passed  a  place  called  Hsi 
Giai.  This  is  a  district  that  is  infested  with  robbers, 
owing  to  the  fact  that  four  counties  meet  here,  and, 
as  the  magistrate  of  one  county  has  no  jurisdiction 
over  the  other  counties,  the  robbers,  when  chased  by 
the  police,  simply  cross  to  another  county  and  are  safe. 
Such  is  the  system  that  China  is  still  using. 

We  anchored  about  three  miles  above  Shi  Bao  Dzai 
(Precious  Stone  Refuge).  This  is  a  very  interesting 
place,  for  here  is  a  massive  rock,  the  top  of  which  is 
crowned  with  a  series  of  temples.  The  only  way  to 
get  to  these  temples  is  to  climb  the  many  flights  of 
steps  in  the  nine-story  wooden  tower  that  reaches  to 
the  top  of  the  rock.  This  is  the  most  striking  thing 
we  have  yet  seen.  The  place  was  originally  one  of  the 
cities  of  refuge  where  the  people  could  hide  from  any 
danger  that  might  threaten  the  community. 

We  found,  on  climbing  this  hill,  that  all  the  idols  in 
the  temples  had  been  thrown  down  and  destroyed  by 
the  soldiers  during  the  revolution.  While  at  this 
place,  our  evangelist  sold  twenty  copies  of  the  Chi- 
nese paper. 

April  10 

Since  we  left  the  Shin  Lung  rapid,  the  river  is  as 
quiet  as  a  mountain  lake.  Now  and  then  there  is  a 
small  rapid,  but  none  that  is  dangerous.  In  many 
places,  we  see  Chinese  searching  for  alluvial  gold,  and 
the  river  is  now  called  the  Gin  Sha,  or  Golden  Sands. 


ENTERING  SZECHUAN   PROVINCE 


153 


However,  owing  to  the  crude  methods  used,  they  do 
not  make  much  money  from  their  mining,  although 
they  work  very  hard.  Thank  God,  we  are  in  search 
of  better  gold;  and  our  prayer  is  that  He  will  give  us 


A  GROUP  OF  PILGKIM   GUESTS  AT  A  BUDDHIST  TEMPLE 


154  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

the  persistence  of  the  Chinese  people,  in  finding  the 
souls  that  are  to  our  heavenly  Father  more  precious 
than  gold,  which  will  some  day  perish. 

April  11 
Friday  evening,  we  anchored  at  a  busy  market  town 
called  Gao  Gia  Djen.  Here  we  stayed  over  Sabbath. 
How  thankful  our  weary  trackers  must  be  for  the 
Sabbath  rest!  Friday  evening  was  spent  in  a  social 
meeting  held  by  our  second  evangelist,  Shi  Yung  Gwei. 
He  brought  out  some  helpful  thoughts  in  the  course  of 
his  remarks,  and  my  soul  was  stirred  as  I  listened  to 
his  earnest  prayers. 

April  12 

To-day  we  had  our  Sabbath  school  on  the  boat,  and 
then  entered  the  market  town,  and  from  the  steps  of 
an  old  temple  now  used  as  a  school,  we  spoke  to  more 
than  two  hundred  persons.  The  Lord  gave  us  liberty, 
and  we  had  good  attention.  As  the  evangelist  was 
speaking,  I  entered  the  school,  and  asked  the  teacher's 
permission  to  speak  to  the  students.  This  was  given, 
and  I  found  that  there  were  forty  boys  and  twenty 
girls  in  attendance.  After  concluding  my  remarks,  I 
asked  them  to  repeat  John  3:  16  after  me,  which  they 
willingly  did.  May  God's  Spirit  care  for  the  seeds  of 
truth  sown  in  these  young  hearts ! 

April  13 

We  left  our  Sabbath  resting  place  early.  Our 
trackers  are  in  fine  spirits,  and  are  the  most  willing 
lot  of  men  I  have  ever  had  in  China. 

We  hope  to  reach  Chungking  this  week.  Then  we 
shall  get  our  mail,  and  have  a  change  in  our  diet.  Our 
bread  is  now  seventeen  days  old.    It  has  become  moldy 


ENTERING  SZECHUAN   PROVINCE  155 

several  times,  but  we  have  held  it  over  the  flame  of 
the  fire  until  the  mold  was  burned  off.  This  was  our 
only  method,  for  our  oven  did  not  arrive  in  Ichang  in 
time  for  us  to  bring  it  with  us.  We  are  also  running 
short  of  provisions.  Yet  we  have  nothing  to  complain 
of.    God  has  been  very  good  to  us. 

We  reached  Feng  Tu  Hsien  about  noon.  A  little 
below  this  city  is  a  picturesque  mountain  some  five 
hundred  feet  high,  which  is  literally  covered  to  the 
top  with  temples  and  large  trees.  We  spent  about  an 
hour  looking  at  the  place.  Some  of  these  temples  are 
very  old,  and  some  of  the  monuments  are  said  to  have 
been  erected  more  than  a  thousand  years  ago.  There 
are  more  than  twenty  large-sized  temples  on  the  moun- 
tain. The  gods  of  these  temples  are  supposed  to  con- 
trol the  fires  of  hell.  Perhaps  in  the  remote  past  this 
place  was  visited  by  an  earthquake,  which  may  account 
for  the  idea  that  it  is  the  door  to  the  lower  regions. 
A  very  peculiar  form  of  worship  is  noticed  in  one 
temple.  There  are  nine  large  serpents,  carved  out  of 
wood,  and  painted,  hanging  from  the  beams,  that  re- 
ceive special  worship. 

The  godde.ss  of  mercy  is  shown  in  another  temple, 
with  a  thousand  hands  and  eyes,  which  represent  her 
ability  to  see  and  help  those  in  need.  Here,  and  in 
other  temples,  we  .see  thousands  of  carved  feet  sus- 
pended from  the  ijeams.  These  have  been  placed  there 
by  women  who  arc  said  to  have  been  cured  by  the 
goddess. 

Before  the  king  of  Tartarus,  Yen  Lo  Wang,  were 
numerous  representations  of  eyes,  hands,  arms,  feet, 
hearts,   lungs,   etc.,   which   had   been   placed   there  by 


156  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

those  who  had  been  healed  in  any  particular  organ  by 
his  Satanic  majesty. 

We  finally  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  last  temple,  and 
there  saw  two  celebrated  worthies  of  the  Han  dynasty 
seated  at  a  table  playing  chess.  The  story  is  that  one 
of  them  gave  the  woodchopper  boy,  who  is  intently 
watching  the  game,  something  in  the  form  of  a  date 
stone,  and  the  boy  became  oblivious  to  time,  and 
watched  the  game  for  over  two  hundred  years.  At 
last,  one  of  the  worthies  touched  the  boy,  and  sug- 
gested that  he  return  home.  When  he  came  to  himself, 
his  clothes  had  rotted  away,  and  his  hatchet  was  con- 
sumed with  rust.  And  further,  on  returning  to  his 
home,  he  found  that  no  one  knew  him.  Thus  you  see 
that  the  Chinese  also  have  a  Rip  Van  Winkle. 

April  14 
We  anchored  to-night  a  little  above  Foochow. 

April  15 
We  anchored  below  the  fine  pagoda  at  Chang  So 
Hsien.  A  few  miles  below  this  city,  we  see  a  Chinese 
coal  mine  that  is  worked  according  to  Chinese  methods. 
The  Chinese  miners  wear  no  clothing  except  a  cap, 
to  which  they  attach  a  lamp.  They  have  cars  with 
iron  wheels,  but  the  cars  run  on  vv^ooden  rails.  They 
obtain  a  good  quality  of  soft  coal. 

April  16 
At  evening,  we  reached  a  town  called  Mu  Tung.    We 
are  now  within  thirty  miles  of  our  destination. 

April  17 
We  arrived  at  the  custom  station,  which  is  ten  miles 
from  Chungking,  about  4  p.  m. ;  and  by  6 :  30,  we  an- 
chored at  Chungking.    The  long  journey  of  1,500  miles 


ENTERING  SZECHUAN   PROVINCE 


157 


is  now  over.  It  has  taken  over  five  weeks  to  make  the 
journey  from  Shanghai  to  Chungking,  Szechuan.  That 
is,  it  takes  longer  to  go  from  Shanghai  to  Chungking 
than  it  would  take  to  go  from  Shanghai  to  New  York. 
Yet  all  say  that  we  have  made  a  quick  trip.     From 


A  "MODEL"  SCHO(jL  IN   FOOCHOW 


Mackenzie  and  Company,  a  firm  that  handles  nearly  all 
the  foreign  goods  shipped  to  these  parts,  we  learn  that 
during  the  month  of  April,  they  had  eight  thousand 
taels'  worth  of  goods  damaged,  and  three  thousand 
taels'  worth  totally  lost,  by  wrecks  on  this  river.  (A 
tael  equals  about  sixty  cents.)  Fortunate  indeed  is 
he  whose  boat  escapes  all  the  perils  of  this  rock-bound 
river.     Personally  we  realize  that  our  safe  journey  is 


]58  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

due  to  the  fact  that  we  have  a  God  that  is  mighty 
to  save. 

[May  1-15,  1915,  at  the  general  meeting  of  the  Asi- 
atic Division  held  in  Shanghai,  Brother  AUum  gave 
the  following  brief  report  of  our  work  in  Chungking 
from  the  arrival  of  our  missionaries  till  that  time:] 

After  our  journey  of  three  weeks  in  the  house  boat, 
Brother  Warren  and  I  had  to  remain  a  further  three 
weeks  on  the  boat  under  the  frowning  walls  of  that 
ancient  city,  which  looked  so  forbidding  to  us  as  day 
after  day  went  by,  and  we  still  failed  to  secure  a  suit- 
able building  for  our  chapel.  But  finally,  in  answer  to 
earnest  prayer,  we  were  led  in  a  remarkable  way  to 
secure  a  building  near  the  Tung  Yuen  Gate,  which  is 
the  most  important  gate  on  the  land  side  of  the  city. 
It  opens  to  one  of  the  largest  and  most  interesting 
highways  found  in  China.  It  is  wide,  well  paved,  and 
busy,  and  leads  from  Chungking,  over  mountains  and 
through  valleys,  to  the  capital  of  the  province, 
Chengtu,  about  five  hundred  miles  distant.  Any  one 
coming  into  Chungking  from  this  highway  must  pass 
our  chapel  door. 

The  principal  work  conducted  at  this  station  is 
evangelistic.  We  have  also  a  small  dispensary,  and  a 
night  school  was  conducted  for  several  months  during 
the  summer.  Although  we  have  been  at  work  here  only 
a  few  months,  the  results  are  encouraging.  We  now 
have  an  organized  Sabbath  school,  which  has  grown 
until  there  are  five  regular  classes,  with  an  attendance 
of  about  forty.  We  also  have  one  school  with  eight 
students,  and  a  church  of  ten  members. 


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(159) 


Early  Experiences  in  Old  Cathay 

Frederick  Lee 
A  STORMY  VOYAGE 

The  day  had  arrived  on  which  we  were  to  embark 
on  the  great  ocean  liner  for  distant  China.  The  last 
nail  had  been  driven  into  our  boxes,  the  last  purchase 
made,  the  last  trunk  strapped,  the  last  baggage  man 
paid.  Lonely  thoughts  companioned  us  as  we  passed 
familiar  places  for  the  last  time,  and  said  farewell  to 
friends  and  loved  ones.  Soon,  too,  the  final  good-by 
was  spoken,  and  as  the  shades  of  evening  were  falling 
over  the  land  we  loved,  our  boat  glided  through  the 
harbor  gate,  and  out  onto  the  vast  ocean  beyond. 

It  was  a  stormy  voyage.  Like  a  toy  in  the  hands  of 
a  giant,  the  ship  was  tossed  about  until  we  feared  it 
would  part  asunder.  Giant  waves  reared  their  angry 
crests,  and  dashed  against  its  sides ;  the  wind  whistled 
and  shrieked  like  a  living  thing. 

Two  days,  three  days,  the  storm  raged.  We  were 
driven  two  hundred  miles  out  of  our  course,  and  could 
make  no  headway.  Down  in  the  heart  of  that  throb- 
bing boat  we  lay,  longing  for  land,  and  despondently 
counting  off  the  days  and  the  miles,  while  the  officers 
took  grave  counsel  together.  It  seemed  a  question 
whether  the  old  boat  would  weather  the  storm. 

But  at  last  the  day  came  when  we  sighted  land,  far 
away  on  the  dim  horizon,  like  a  bank  of  cloud.  All  day 
long  we  strained  our  eyes  to  catch  that  view,  now  ap- 
pearing, now  fading  away.  That  night,  we  went  hap- 
pily to  our  berths,  knowing  that  at  break  of  day  we 
should  be  safely  anchored  in  a  harbor  of  Japan. 
(160) 


11 


(161) 


162  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

Beautiful  indeed  was  the  scene  that  greeted  our  eyes 
the  next  morning.  In  the  distance,  above  and  beyond 
the  city,  rose  the  graceful  outline  of  Fuji,  looking  just 
as  ornamental  and  unreal  as  it  appears  on  so  many 
Japanese  screens  and  vases  and  dishes.  Its  tall,  snow- 
capped cone,  veiled  with  fleecy  clouds,  caught  the  first 
rays  of  the  morning  sun,  captivating  us  with  its 
splendor.  As  we  stood  on  deck  that  calm,  lovely  morn- 
ing, and  gazed  at  this  wonderful  vision,  the  worry  and 
unrest  and  distress  of  past  days  rolled  away,  and  our 
hearts  were  at  peace. 

Soon  the  bustle  of  landing  began  in  earnest.  Quaint 
little  water  craft  swarmed  about  our  boat;  and  when 
we  reached  the  jetty,  we  began  to  realize  that  we  were 
indeed  in  a  different  land.  Such  swarms  of  "Japs"! 
And  in  what  diversified  attire! 

After  a  few  hours'  rest,  we  took  the  boat  again,  and 
continued  our  journey  through  the  lovely  Inland  Sea, 
one  of  the  world's  beauty  spots.  Soon  we  were  at  the 
gateway  of  China,  the  busy  city  of  Shanghai. 

SOJOURN  IN  THE  CITY  OF  CONTRASTS 
Our  first  three  months  in  China  were  spent  in  Shang- 
hai, the  gateway  of  the  East.  It  is  a  city  of  strange 
contrasts, —  a  city  where  the  Chinese  do  most  of  the 
work,  and  the  European  pockets  most  of  the  profits; 
where  jinrikisha  and  wheelbarrow  compete  with  street 
car  and  taxicab ;  where  large  Western  stores  look  dis- 
dainfully down  on  small  native  shops.  Here  one  meets 
the  nationals  of  every  country  of  Europe  and  of  Asia, 
and  may  enter  shops  of  every  country  under  heaven. 
Here  the  inland  Chinese  come  to  learn  of  Western 
ways,  and  after  a  longer  or  a  shorter  sojourn,  return 


I 


EARLY  EXPERIENCES  IN  OLD  CATHAY      163 

home  to  elaborate  on  the  wonders  of  Europe  and  Amer- 
ica, of  which  to  them  Shanghai  is  the  pattern.  Here 
also  come  the  European  and  the  American  to  "see 
China";  and  having  seen  Shanghai,  they  return  home, 
an  authority  thereafter  on  "things  Chinese." 

After  spending  three  months  studying  the  Chinese 
and  their  language,  we  were  asked  to  take  up  work  in 
northern  Anhwei.  Feeling  that  we  too  had  learned 
much  while  in  Shanghai,  we  took  our  departure  full  of 
confidence;  but  we  soon  found  that  we  had  learned 
little  of  real  China  in  that  polyglot  city. 

BEGINNING   THE   JOURNEY 

The  date  of  our  departure  was  set  for  March  1 ;  and 
many  days  previously,  we  were  planning  to  that  end. 
A  launch  was  hired  to  tow  the  house  boat,  and  a  stock 
of  groceries  and  other  necessary  supplies  was  laid  in. 

Our  party  consisted  of  my  wife  and  me,  and  three 
other  Americans, —  the  superintendent,  the  director, 
and  the  surgeon, —  who  were  escorting  us  on  our 
maiden  trip  "interior,"  as  the  missionaries  say.  We 
also  had  with  us  a  Chinese  teacher,  who  was  supposed 
to  help  us  over  every  linguistic  difficulty.  Two  of  our 
number  could  speak  Chinese  quite  freely;  and  we  our- 
selves could  say,  "Chih  ywo  ban  muh  yu?"  ("Have  you 
eaten  your  food  yet?")  ;  "Ni  yao  (ji  go  taien?  Na  shift 
tai  do"  ("How  much  do  you  want?  Oh,  that  is  too 
much!")  ;  and  a  few  other  neces.sary  and  unnecessary 
phrases. 

In  the  buoyancy  of  youth  and  the  bliss  of  ignorance, 
we  started  out  on  our  long  trip.  Though  our  way  was 
beset  with  uncertainties,  we  had  no  mi.sgivings.  No 
palatial  steamers  carried  us  by  water,   no  smoothly 


164  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

moving  trains  speeded  us  over  the  land,  no  "homey" 
bungalow  awaited  us  at  the  end  of  the  journey. 
Nevertheless,  we  looked  forward  with  joy  to  our  new 
work,  far  away  from  critical  eyes  and  disturbing  at- 
tractions. 

The  first  stage  of  the  journey  was  to  the  city  of 
Chinkiang,  on  the  Yangtze,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
Grand  Canal.  Here  we  were  to  hire  a  house  boat,  and 
make  other  arrangements  for  the  trip  inland. 

Before  setting  out,  the  party  was  divided  into  three 
groups.  The  first,  consisting  of  the  director  and  the 
Chinese  teacher,  accompanied  the  launch  to  see  that 
it  arrived  safely  at  Chinkiang.  This  group,  which  was 
to  steam  up  Soochow  Creek,  started  first;  Mrs.  Lee 
and  I  took  the  large  Yangtze  River  steamer  to  the 
same  port,  as  the  launch  was  too  small  to  carry  us 
and  our  luggage;  and  the  superintendent  and  the 
surgeon  waited  half  a  day  longer,  leaving  Shanghai 
by  train. 

Thus  our  race  was  planned,  and  to  each  group  was 
given  the  proper  handicap;  but  it  was  a  case  of  the 
last  arriving  first,  for  the  superintendent  and  the 
surgeon  were  at  the  dock  to  meet  us  when  we  arrived, 
and  we  four  were  waiting  when  the  launch  party 
landed.  They  had  become  stranded  in  the  mud,  and 
then  wedged  in  among  a  throng  of  boats,  which 
pressed  on  one  another  from  shore  to  shore  of  the 
little  creek. 

A  LAND  OF  DARKNESS 

China  is  a  land  of  intense  night.  With  the  going 
down  of  the  sun,  a  black  pall  seems  to  enshroud  the 
country,  and  a  sense  of  isolation  and  loneliness  presses 
upon  the  stranger.     As  our  boat  steamed  on  into  the 


EARLY  EXPERIENCES  IN  OLD  CATHAY      165 

darkness  on  the  evening  of  the  second  day,  we  felt 
ourselves  in  an  unreal  w^orld;  but  when,  presently, 
the  lights  of  Chinkiang  began  to  twinkle  faintly  in 
the  distance,  our  courage  came  back,  and  we  were 
soon  ready  to  smile  at  our  forebodings. 

How  we  strained  our  eyes  looking  into  that  dimly 
lighted  dock,  and  scanning  the  hundreds  of  faces  that 
swarmed  upon  it!  What  if  there  should  be  no  one 
to  meet  us?  What  if  the  superintendent  and  the  sur- 
geon had  not  arrived?  Where  should  we  find  shelter? 
In  sudden  panic,  we  remembered  that  we  did  not  know 
where  to  look  for  an  inn,  and  that  our  stock  of  phrases 
did  not  include  one  asking  to  be  directed  to  a  place 
to  sleep. 

But  in  a  moment,  we  saw  the  superintendent  wav- 
ing his  arms,  and  heard  the  surgeon  calling  a  cheerful 
greeting.  Instantly  the  coolies  swarmed  about  us, 
apparently  with  the  intention  of  tearing  us  to  pieces. 
Loudly  they  shouted,  "Yu  hsing  li  muh  yu?"  "Yu 
hsinrj  li  muh  yu?"  It  seemed  to  me  they  were  "calling 
names"  (li  sounding  like  "Lee"),  but  they  only  wanted 
to  know  if  we  had  any  luggage.  When  we  turned  to 
our  cabin,  they  rushed  ahead,  and  grabbed  our  pack- 
ages and  boxes  and  suit  cases.  Confusion  reigned; 
but  pre.sently  our  belongings  were  as.sembled  and  dis- 
tributed, one  or  more  being  placed  at  each  end  of  the 
carrying  poles  of  the  coolies,  who  trotted  off  with 
their  burdens  to  the  accompaniment  of  "Eh-0!  Kh-0!" 

DREAMS  OF   HOME 
Following     through     the     dark,     narrow,     winding 
streets,  lined  with  small  shops,   in  which  tiny  tallow 
dips    flickered,    and   cast    grotesque    shadows   on    the 


166 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


dusty  walls,  we  came  presently  to  the  front  of  a  Chi- 
nese hotel.  The  coolies  deposited  our  goods  upon  the 
floor;  and  after  the  usual  haggling  over  the  price, 
they  dispersed.     The  next  thing  was  to  sort  the  lug- 


A   ROW  OF  CHINESE   CLOTHING   STORES 


EARLY  EXPERIENCES  IN  OLD  CATHAY      167 

gage,  find  our  folding  cots,  unroll  our  bedding,  and 
try  to  make  ourselves  comfortable  for  the  night.  Who 
can  censure  us  if,  while  the  "singsong  girl"  in  the 
next  room  shrilled  her  weird  ditties  through  the  mid- 
night hours,  we  dreamed  of  the  comfortable  beds  of 
home,  clean  water  for  drinking  and  bathing,  and 
familiar  faces  to  greet  us  with  the  return  of  day? 

Early  in  the  morning,  we  were  awakened  by  the 
hustle  and  bustle  of  a  large  and  active  city,  and  by 
the  shouts  and  noises  arising  from  the  crowded  street 
below.  The  clang-clang  of  the  itinerant  restaurant 
man,  the  tinkle-tinkle  of  the  "salted  peanuts"  boy, 
and  the  lusty  shouts  of  "Reh  bing!  Reh  bing!"  from 
the  little  lad  selling  hot  biscuits,  all  came  up  to  our 
window,  awakening  us  to  the  realities  of  our  new 
environment. 

Stepping  to  the  window,  and  trying  to  pierce  its 
gloomy  face,  we  caught  the  first  view  of  our  surround- 
ings, which  were  anything  but  inspiring.  Below  us 
lay  the  broad  expanse  of  the  muddy  Yangtze.  Along 
the  edge  were  anchored  boats  and  launches  of  every 
description,  while  far  out  in  the  stream  were  two  small 
gunboats.  Some  distance  from  the  shore,  too,  along- 
side the  floating  docks,  lay  two  large  river  steamers, 
belching  forth  smoke  preparatory  to  steaming  up  the 
river  to  Hankow,  five  hundred  miles  away.  A  rickety 
little  launch,  crowded  with  coolies,  cast  off  its  line,  and 
started  on  its  perilous  way  across  the  river,  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Grand  Canal. 

Along  the  shore,  in  the  murk  and  scjualor  of  cen- 
turies, were  countless  mat  huts,  in  which  witch-like 
women  fanned  the  open  fires,  and  grimy  men  stirred 
the  noodles  in  the  pot,  and  cursed  the  women  because 


(168) 


EARLY  EXPERIENCES  IN  OLD  CATHAY      169 

the  fire  was  not  hotter.  Scurvy  dogs  and  hairless  cats 
ran  hither  and  thither;  a  disfigured  beggar  rolled 
along  in  the  mud,  calling  for  an  alms;  and  a  blind  and 
noseless  leper  knocked  his  head  on  the  ground,  as  the 
people  passed,  in  a  vain  effort  to  arouse  their  charity. 

THE  SEARCH  FOR  A  HOUSE  BOAT 
The  day  was  passed  at  the  inn,  waiting  for  the 
launch  to  come.  As  we  viewed  the  scenes  before  us, 
our  minds  naturally  turned  to  visions  of  home  — 
broad  fields,  clean  streets,  parks  in  which  laughing 
children  played,  and  drank  at  sparkling  fountains. 
What  a  contrast  to  the  miasma  of  filth  and  disease 
before  us!  The  very  air  seemed  polluted,  and  the 
ground  upon  which  we  walked  reeked  with  contagion. 
But  we  dared  not  think  too  much  upon  these  things; 
for  we  were  to  learn  to  live  in  this  land  where,  to  the 
Chinese  mind,  there  are  no  microbes,  and  where  filth 
is  unknown. 

All  day  we  searched  to  find  a  suitable  house  boat  — 
suitable  to  our  needs  and  to  our  pocketbooks.  Seeing 
that  we  were  "outside  country"  men,  the  boatmen 
raised  their  price  to  about  four  times  what  it  should 
be.  The  more  unstable  and  ancient  the  craft,  the  more 
the  captain  would  expand  his  chest,  and  the  higher 
the  tariff  he  would  charge.  "I  will  not  go  for  less," 
was  his  ultimatum. 

At  evening,  we  thought  that  a  boat  had  been  se- 
cured; but  just  as  we  were  to  retire,  a  middleman 
rushed  in,  saying  that  our  man  had  decided  not  to  go. 
"The  way  is  too  dangerous.  There  are  many  robbers 
at  this  time  of  year.  It  is  a  big  responsibility  to  take 
care  of  four  big  teachers  and  one  grand  lady.  You 
must  pay  at  least  ten  dollars  more,"  we  were  told. 


170  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  .CHINA 

We  were  perplexed;  but  just  as  we  were  about  to 
give  up  hope  of  securing  a  proper  boat  at  a  proper 
price,  and  were  sorely  troubled  over  the  nonarrival 
of  the  launch,  in  walked  the  director,  as  calm  as  if 
he  had  been  on  time  instead  of  two  days  late. 

Next  day,  the  haranguing  over  the  price  of  the 
house  boat  began  again;  but  finally  the  contract  was 
signed,  and  the  middleman  who  had  helped  us  secure 
it  was  paid  off.  It  was  dark  when  our  goods  were 
transferred  to  the  boat,  but  we  gave  a  sigh  of  relief. 
Surely  now  we  were  ready  to  start  on  the  last  lap  of 
our  journey ! 

But  not  without  further  trouble.  Just  as  we  were 
settling  down  in  peace,  in  walked  the  ex-captain  and 
veteran  pilot,  and  announced  that  the  boat  was  too 
heavily  loaded.  There  was  too  much  luggage  and  there 
were  too  many  passengers.  He  would  not  go ;  we  must 
get  another  boat;  that  was  his  ultimatum.  But  our 
patience  had  reached  its  limit  for  that  day;  and  the 
old  man,  seeing  we  meant  business,  backed  away,  and 
left  us  to  slumber. 

We  woke  early,  hearing  the  rattling  of  chains  as  the 
anchor  was  hoisted,  the  splashing  of  the  pike  pole  in 
the  water  as  the  boat  was  pushed  about,  and  the  "puff! 
puff!"  of  the  little  launch,  which  was  being  attached 
to  the  house  boat.  Soon  we  were  gliding  out  over 
Yangtze,  heading  for  the  mouth  of  the  Grand  Canal. 
We  were  off. 

UP  THE  GRAND  CANAL 

Laboriously  the  little  launch  tugs  our  house  boat  up 
the  rushing  waters  of  the  Grand  Canal.  Noisily  we 
steam  past  stately  sailboats  loaded  with  government 
salt,  past  picturesque  villages,  past  ancient  walls  in- 


EARLY  EXPERIENCES  IN  OLD  CATHAY 


171 


closing  busy  and  crowded  streets.  Everywhere  the 
"chug  chug"  of  the  "fire-wheel  boat"  calls  attention 
to  the  coming  of  the  "outlandish"  men,  who  are  never 
satisfied  with  the  calm,  dignified  pace  of  the  Oriental, 


^     i.  u  V 


ALONG   THE   GRAND   CANAL 


but  are  ever  rushing  on  as  fast  as  fire  and  smoke  will 
carry  them. 

Throngs  of  men,  women,  and  children  tumble  out  of 
houses  and  huts,  and  stare  open-mouthed  as  we  pass. 
If  we  pause  a  moment  at  some  busy  mart  or  village 


172  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

wharf,  crowds  of  tousle-headed,  dull-eyed,  ragged  and 
dirty  Chinese,  with  their  characteristic  bland  gaze, 
swarm  about  our  boat,  and  peer  in  through  windows 
and  cracks  to  get  a  glimpse  of  the  "most  honorable 
lady  from  the  West,"  who  dare  not  come  out  and 
be  seen. 

No  matter  how  we  may  plead,  cajole,  threaten,  or 
command,  they  continue  to  stare.  Suddenly  one  of  us 
makes  a  quick  move,  pulls  out  a  small  black  box  with 
an  "eye"  in  the  center,  and  with  it  looking  them 
straight  in  the  face,  tells  them  he  is  going  to  take 
their  picture  in  that  little  box.  How  the  crowd  scat- 
ters, knocking  over  babies  and  young  children,  who  set 
up  a  great  howl !  No,  indeed  1  they  will  not  allow  that 
evil  eye  to  get  hold  of  their  souls,  and  imprison  them 
in  the  box  for  the  "outlandish"  man  to  do  with  as 
he  pleases! 

Strange  things  have  these  natives  heard  of  the  for- 
eign devils, —  that  they  dope  tea  with  "Jesus  medicine," 
which,  when  the  people  drink  it,  somehow  fills  them 
with  that  strange  doctrine ;  that  they  go  about  collect- 
ing the  eyes  of  little  children  with  which  to  made 
medicine.  No  wonder  they  rush  off  in  every  direction, 
fearing  lest  this  harmless  camera  be  some  new  ar- 
rangement to  entangle  their  souls  in  the  meshes  of  the 
foreign-doctrine  net. 

TELLING  THE  GOSPEL  STORY 

At  other  times,  we  ask  the  people  to  come  nearer, 
and  promise  to  tell  them  a  story.  They  grin  sheep- 
ishly, and  come.  The  Chinese  story-teller  is  a  leading 
character  in  nearly  every  countryside,  and  the  people 


EARLY  EXPERIENCES  IN  OLD  CATHAY      173 

of  China  are  like  childi'en  in  their  love  of  tales.  This 
is  necessarily  true  in  a  land  where  so  few  of  the  popu- 
lation ever  learn  to  read. 

Then  we  tell  them  "the  old,  old  story  of  Jesus  and 
His  love,"  and  watch  their  faces  closely  to  see  if  any 
response  is  kindled  there.  When  a  point  is  made  that 
they  comprehend,  they  nod  their  heads,  and  say,  "I 
understand."  The  fact  that  the  foreign  man  speaks 
in  their  own  tongue  fills  them  with  amazement.  "Why, 
he  says  the  same  words  that  we  do!"  they  exclaim. 
But  others  stubbornly  refuse  to  listen,  and  say,  "Wo 
buh  dung,"  which  means,  "I  do  not  understand." 

THROUGH  THE  LOCKS 

Two  days  we  traveled  up  the  Grand  Canal,  passing 
through  several  queer  locks.  Where  the  stream  formed 
rapids  in  its  downward  rush,  great  butments  had  been 
built  out  from  the  shore,  leaving  only  space  enough 
for  one  boat  to  pass  through.  This  made  a  sudden  rise 
in  some  of  the  locks,  over  which  the  boat  must  be 
dragged  or  down  which  it  must  shoot,  as  the  case 
might  be. 

When  we  were  going  up  the  stream,  a  crew  took 
charge  of  our  boat,  and  began  tying  to  it  many  bam- 
boo ropes,  which  were  fastened  to  awkward  looking 
windlasses  on  the  shore.  Crowds  of  women  and  chil- 
dren stood  about  with  poles,  with  which  to  turn  the 
windlass  and  wind  up  the  huge  ropes,  thus  pulling  our 
boat  through  the  locks.  All  this  time,  a  man  standing 
on  top  of  the  hi^h  dam  was  beating  a  huge  brass  cym- 
bal, and  calling  out  orders  at  the  top  of  his  voice.  He 
was  in  charge  of  the  whole  operation,  and  enjoyed  his 
brief  authority  to  the  utmost. 


174  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

Great  was  the  excitement  when  the  boat  went  slowly 
through  the  locks.  Furiously  the  officer  beat  his  cym- 
bal, loudly  the  onlookers  shouted,  and  vigorously  the 
women  turned  the  windlasses.  It  amused  us  not  a 
little  to  see  one  of  our  number  (but  which  one,  I  shall 
not  tell)  keep  his  eyes  glued  to  his  book  during  all  this 
performance.  Firecrackers  were  "going  off"  within 
a  few  feet  of  him,  the  cymbals  crashed  over  his  head, 
the  people  shouted  themselves  hoarse;  but  he  scarcely 
lifted  his  eyes. 

LEFT  BY  THE  LAUNCH 

Next  day,  we  left  the  swift  waters  of  the  canal,  and 
entered  a  large  lake.  The  water  in  the  river  coming 
from  the  lake  was  so  swift  that  the  launch  could  no 
longer  tow  us.  It  therefore  left  us,  and  proceeded 
ahead.  We  hired  about  a  dozen  men  to  pull  us  along 
v^ith  a  rope,  which  v^^as  fastened  to  the  mast  of  our 
boat.  Thus  slowly  but  surely  we  advanced,  and  at  last 
cast  anchor  in  quiet  w^ater.  By  this  time,  it  was 
quite  dark. 

The  next  morning,  when  we  stepped  out  on  the  deck 
to  look  for  the  launch,  it  was  nowhere  to  be  seen.  As 
we  were  wondering  what  had  become  of  it,  a  man  in 
a  small  rowboat  approached,  and  told  us  that  the 
launch  was  stuck  in  the  mud  about  a  mile  back,  and 
that  even  if  it  could  be  released,  it  would  be  unsafe  to 
go  on,  as  the  river  ahead  was  very  shallow.  This  was 
the  last  we  saw  of  the  launch,  and  we  were  now  left  to 
the  mercy  of  every  unfavorable  wind. 

HOW   MUCH   FARTHER? 
On   we   struggled,   sometimes  waiting   in   a  dreary 
harbor  because  of  a  high  head  wind,  sometimes  travel- 


EARLY  EXPERIENCES  IN  OLD  CATHAY      175 

ing  at  the  rate  of  a  mile  an  hour,  and  more  rarely  at 
the  rate  of  four  miles  an  hour.  As  day  succeeded  day, 
our  patience  was  greatly  tried.  Every  evening,  we 
would  step  up  to  the  captain,  and  ask,  "Hiuan  yu  gi 
go  li  lou?"  These  were  the  first  words  we  could  speak 
with  any  intelligence,  and  they  mean,  "How  many  li 
have  we  to  go?"  A  li  is  a  Chinese  mile,  and  is  only 
one  third  of  an  English  mile. 

Very  indifferently  the  captain  would  reply,  "There 
are  yet  several  tens,"  and  we  would  know  about  as 
much  as  we  knew  before.  He  never  would  tell  us  how 
much  longer  he  thought  the  voyage  would  take  us. 
Apparently  as  long  as  money  was  coming  to  him,  and 
food  to  eat,  he  was  content. 

Each  night,  we  cast  anchor,  u.sually  near  some 
tumble-down  village.  And  each  morning,  if  the  wind 
was  favorable,  we  heard  the  hoi-sting  of  the  sail,  and 
then  felt  the  gentle  gliding  of  the  boat  in  the  water  be- 
fore we  were  up.  Living  in  the  crowded  quarters  of  that 
house  boat  during  those  long  days  was  inten.sely  try- 
ing; but  little  by  little,  we  approached  our  destination, 
and  after  fifteen  days  of  waiting,  sailing,  and  towing, 
we  were  near  the  small  city  to  which  we  were  going. 

About  the  middle  of  the  forenoon,  the  captain  an- 
nounced that  we  had  but  twenty  miles  more  to  go,  and 
he  thought  we  could  make  it  that  day.  However,  at 
sunset,  we  still  had  .some  distance  to  travel,  as  the 
.stream  had  made  a  wide  detour.  Two  of  our  company 
left  the  boat  at  this  point,  and  went  across  country, 
and  Mrs.  Lee  and  I  improved  the  time  by  "breaking  up 
housekeeping."  We  repacked  our  various  belongings, 
rolled  up  our  bedding,  and  prepared  to  disembark. 


176  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

Still  we  waited  —  hours,  it  seemed  to  us  —  for  the 
end  of  the  journey.  About  10  p.  m.,  we  heard  the 
sound  of  voices,  the  rattle  of  chains,  and  the  splash 
of  the  anchor  falling  into  the  water.  Rushing  to  the 
front  of  the  boat,  and  peering  into  the  darkness,  we 
saw  the  flickering  lanterns  of  those  who  had  come  to 
meet  us.  Then  a  fat,  jovial  face  was  seen,  and  in  a 
flash  my  hand  was  clasped,  and  I  heard  the  welcome 
sound  of  the  Chinese  Christian  greeting,  "Ping  an," 
which  means,  "Peace  be  with  you." 

Pastor  Han  and  his  flock,  being  told  by  the  two  who 
had  walked  ahead  that  we  were  soon  to  arrive,  had 
come  down  to  the  landing  to  welcome  us  to  our  new 
home. 

Arrangements  were  quickly  made,  and  we  soon  be- 
gan the  march  up  the  dark,  narrow  path  leading  to  the 
city  gate.  When  the  gatekeeper  was  awakened,  and 
the  gate  opened,  we  went  on,  the  lanterns  casting  fan- 
tastic figures  on  the  walls  of  the  little  shops  on  each 
side  of  the  narrow,  dingy  streets,  and  revealing 
wretched  objects  lying  in  the  doorways.  It  is  hardly 
to  be  wondered  at  that  the  darkness  got  somewhat  on 
our  nerves,  and  we  were  relieved  when  we  arrived  at 
Gospel  Hall,  our  future  home. 

Through  a  series  of  courts  and  buildings,  we  were 
led  to  the  home  of  the  Chinese  evangelist,  who  lived 
in  the  back  of  the  high-walled  compound;  and  almost 
at  once  many  shining-faced  Chinese  stepped  up  to 
greet  us.  As  it  was  late,  we  were  taken  soon  to  the 
house  that  was  to  be  our  new  home. 

A  HOME  FAR  FROM  HOME 

Left  alone  in  that  strange  house,  my  wife  and  I 
looked  into  each  other's  eyes,  to  discover,  if  possible. 


12 


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178  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

the  emotion  within.  We  were  both  young,  and  natu- 
rally had  high  ideals  of  what  a  first  home  should  be 
and  how  it  should  be  arranged.  We  took  the  small 
lamp,  and  arm  in  arm  looked  around  to  see  what  this 
one-roomed  home  was  like.  The  floor  was  made  of 
bricks  laid  on  the  damp  ground;  already  its  chill  was 
creeping  up  our  limbs.  The  walls  were  of  mud,  the 
roof  was  of  straw,  and  there  were  two  openings  into 
the  room  besides  the  door.  These  were  supposed  to  be 
windows,  but  they  were  so  heavily  latticed  and  papered 
that  hardly  any  light  and  no  air  could  penetrate  them. 
In  one  corner  of  the  room  stood  a  little,  round,  iron 
Chinese  stove,  which  had  one  hole  in  the  center,  where 
coal  was  to  be  burned.  There  was  no  place  for  a  pipe 
to  carry  off  the  smoke.  In  another  corner  were  two 
long  benches,  across  which  we  threw  our  springs  and 
mattress.  Together  we  knelt  and  asked  God  to  bless 
our  new  home,  and  then  lay  down  to  sleep,  soon  to 
waken  to  a  strange  and  different  world. 

FAREWELL 

After  two  days,  the  friends  who  had  accompanied 
us  departed,  and  we  were  left  alone.  We  had  been  but 
three  months  in  China,  and  now  we  were  left  to  sink 
or  swim,  with  no  one  who  could  understand  a  word  of 
English  to  help  us  out  of  any  difficulty  in  which  we 
might  become  involved.  Many  weeks  we  lived  in  our 
adobe  hut,  poring  over  that  difficult  language,  that  we 
might  acquire  enough  of  it  to  speak  with  under- 
standing. 

During  those  weeks,  we  endeavored  to  remodel  a 
Chinese  house  in  the  same  compound,  which  would  be 
more  healthful  for  us  to  live  in.     Holes  were  knocked 


EARLY  EXPERIENCES  IN  OLD  CATHAY      179 

in  the  walls,  and  real  glass  windows  were  put  in.  A 
board  floor  was  laid,  and  a  bamboo  ceiling  and  par- 
tition were  put  up.  The  work  progressed  slowly,  and 
many  times  we  became  almost  disheartened.  Trees 
must  be  cut  down,  then  sawed  into  timber  with  long 
handsaws,  after  which  the  boards  must  be  dried  and 
finished  before  the  work  could  be  done. 

The  workmen  were  very  slow.  Often  during  the  day 
they  would  squat  down  and  drink  tea  and  chat,  while 
we,  utterly  helpless,  fretted  inwardly  at  the  delay. 

As  I  look  back  to  the  time  we  spent  in  those  dark, 
damp  quarters,  where  day  after  day  a  lamp  must  be 
kept  burning  in  order  that  we  might  see  to  read  or 
write,  I  wonder  at  the  fortitude  and  courage  of  my 
uncomplaining  wife.  Week  after  week,  she  never 
stepped  foot  outside  the  high  walls  that  shut  in  our 
little  courtyard  from  the  outside  world.  Few  were 
the  walks  we  took,  for  the  crowds  following  us  made  it 
very  unpleasant  for  a  woman. 

Sometimes  we  would  go  outside  the  city  walls  and 
search  for  a  quiet  nook  or  a  grassy  spot  where  we 
could  sit  and  breathe  the  fresh  air;  and  finding  no  such 
place,  we  would  rest  awhile  on  some  grave  mound,  the 
only  place  we  could  find  with  even  a  sprinkling  of  sod. 

THE   REMODELED    HOUSE 

At  last,  the  day  came  when  we  moved  into  our  re- 
modeled home;  and  a  joyful  day  it  was.  The  glass 
windows  and  the  rough  board  floors  seemed  the  height 
of  luxury  to  us.  But  even  here  we  found  little  privacy ; 
for  heads  were  likely  to  })ob  up  at  any  moment,  and 
curious  eyes  peered  in  at  all  hours. 

Slowly  we  were  acquiring  the  language.  Night  after 
night,    our    Chinese    friends    and    neighbors   crowded 


180  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

about  our  doorstep,  and  talked  with  us,  drawing  out 
all  our  resources  of  understanding  and  speech.  Day 
by  day,  the  number  of  our  sentences  increased;  and 
on  every  hand,  we  were  receiving  praise  that  we  could 
talk  "just  like  the  Chinese."  After  two  months  more 
of  study,  I  decided  to  try  to  lead  a  meeting,  and  chose 
the  quarterly  service.  Although  the  words  were  neces- 
sarily simple,  and  the  sentences  short,  we  had  a  good 
meeting.  God  saw  fit  to  use  an  inexperienced  instru- 
ment, and  souls  were  touched.  From  that  time,  we 
became  bolder  in  the  language,  and  ventured  to  do 
more  and  more;  and  after  a  few  more  months,  we 
were  in  active  work,  holding  services  every  day.  Those 
were  happy  days  when  we  began  working  for  the 
Master  in  China. 

During  the  same  time,  Mrs.  Lee  was  making  good 
progress  in  the  language;  but  her  vocabulary  led  along 
a  line  a  little  different  from  mine,  consisting  as  it  did 
of  the  names  of  pots  and  kettles,  soups  and  salads, 
prices  of  sweet  potatoes  and  peanuts,  etc.  Besides 
this,  she  needed  a  little  strong  and  forcible  language 
with  which  to  awaken  the  sleepy  and  shiftless  cook. 

Many  were  our  perplexities,  in  those  days,  with 
cooks  and  washerwomen.  The  cook  would  let  the  soup 
scorch,  and  the  woman  would  run  off  with  the  soap. 
One  day,  after  many  exasperating  experiences,  and 
the  disappearance  of  many  articles,  Mrs.  Lee  went  into 
the  kitchen,  and  found  it  full  of  smoke.  By  the  stove 
sat  the  boy  cook,  sound  asleep,  with  the  dinner  burn- 
ing up  as  fast  as  possible  on  the  hot  fire.  That  boy 
lasted  about  five  minutes;  then  we  were  looking  for 
another.  The  next  applicant  was  tried  for  a  series  of 
days,  and  proved  so  much  worse  than  the  first,  that  we 


International  Film 


A    CHINESE    SAWMILL 


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182  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

forgave  that  repentant  youth,  and  took  him  back  on 
condition  that  he  try  to  keep  awake  while  at  work. 

A  "CHRISTIAN"  FUNERAL 
During  those  first  months,  many  strange  experiences 
came  to  us  because  of  our  ignorance  of  the  various 
customs  of  the  people.  I  was  asked  to  conduct  the 
funeral  service  of  the  mother  of  one  of  the  new  con- 
verts. She  was  a  Christian ;  and  the  son,  the  eldest  of 
the  family,  desired  for  her  a  Christian  burial.  The 
rest  of  the  relatives  and  friends  were  heathen,  and 
were  determined  to  have  a  heathen  ceremony. 

I  told  the  son  I  could  not  conduct  the  service  if  any 
heathen  superstitions  were  practiced,  and  he  prom- 
ised that  none  should  be ;  so  finally  I  consented.  As  I 
led  the  service,  read  from  the  Gospel  of  John,  and 
offered  prayer,  the  heathen  family,  dressed  in  white, 
the  symbol  of  mourning,  stood  all  about  me.  Then  the 
procession  was  formed.  I  had  not  seen  anything  that 
looked  out  of  the  way,  and  felt  that  we  were  getting 
along  nicely. 

My  place  in  the  procession  was  just  behind  the  large 
coffin,  which  was  carried  along  the  narrow  streets  by 
eight  men,  the  chief  mourners  marching  ahead  of  it. 
Crowds  of  Chinese  stood  in  their  shop  doors  and 
watched  us  pass.  With  a  sense  of  disquiet,  I  observed 
that  some  smiled,  looked  at  me,  and  then  pointed  at 
something. 

When  we  came  to  the  city  gate,  the  bearers  set  the 
coffin  down  and  rested.  After  going  ahead  to  speak 
to  one  of  the  mourners,  I  noticed,  as  I  returned  to 
my  position,  something  on  the  front  of  the  coffin,  and 
going  nearer,  found  some  paper  with  holes  punched  in 


EARLY  EXPERIENCES  IN  OLD  CATHAY      183 

it,  some  incense,  and  a  bowl  filled  with  food.  I  asked 
what  these  things  meant,  and  was  astonished  when 
told  that  they  were  an  offering  to  the  dead.  The  rela- 
tives said  the  soul  of  the  dead  woman  must  have 
money  to  spend  and  food  to  eat  in  the  place  to  which 
it  was  going! 

Naturally  I  was  deeply  chagrined  to  reflect  that  I, 
the  gospel  pastor,  had  escorted  a  heathen  funeral  to 
the  grave,  marching  through  the  crowded  streets, 
where  everybody  had  seen.  At  once  I  declared  that  I 
would  not  take  another  step  until  the  things  were  taken 
away;  and,  much  embarrassed,  the  elder  son  stepped 
up  to  remove  them.  Then  another  said  he  would  take 
them  back  home ;  but  instead,  he  sneaked  them  along, 
I  was  told,  and  managed  to  place  them  on  the  ground 
by  the  coffin  when  my  attention  was  attracted  else- 
where. 

IN   THE   MIDST  OF  FAMINE 

During  our  first  fall  and  winter,  we  lived  amid  ex- 
treme suffering.  A  great  flood  came  rushing  down 
over  the  lowlands  bordering  the  Hwai  River  in  the 
eastern  part  of  the  province,  and  spreading  out  over 
the  extensive  wheat  fields,  ruined  untold  quantities  of 
food,  and  washed  away  thou.sands  of  homes.  Winter 
found  hundreds  of  families  homeless  and  without  food. 
These  wandered  about  in  large  companies,  taking  with 
them  the  few  remaining  fragments  of  home,  and  going 
from  town  to  town  and  from  city  to  city  begging  for 
help.  Men,  women,  and  children  went  from  shop  to 
shop  and  from  home  to  home  with  their  baskets  and 
bowls,  asking  for  food  of  any  kind.  What  little  flour 
they  could  secure  was  mixed  with  the  ground  bark  of 
trees   and   made   into   bread.      Everywhere   the   fields 


184 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


were  covered  with  smoke-blackened  holes  over  which 
had  been  placed  the  iron  kettles  where  the  people  had 
cooked  their  meager  meals. 


A   FUNERAL   PROCESSION    PASSING   THROUGH   THE   WEST   GATE 
OF  THE  TARTAR  CITY,  PEKING 


EARLY  EXPERIENCES  IN  OLD  CATHAY      185 

A  friend  and  I  took  a  walk  into  the  country  one 
afternoon,  and  saw  a  group  of  these  people.  They 
were  sitting  on  the  ground  in  their  rags,  a  pitiful  sight 
indeed.  Many  were  mere  skeletons.  Children  were 
moaning  and  wailing.  Small  babies,  wrapped  in 
ragged  quilts  and  packed  in  large  baskets,  were  ut- 
tering faint  cries. 

As  we  passed  among  them,  several  of  the  men  sur- 
rounded us,  and  seizing  us  by  the  arms,  demanded 
help.  They  said  we  must  help  them,  or  they  would 
not  let  us  go  on.  Not  knowing  how  we  could  help  those 
hundreds  of  starving  people,  we  struggled  to  get 
away;  and  they,  seeing  that  we  must  come  back  that 
way,  finally  released  us,  and  waited  for  our  return. 

After  a  short  walk  into  the  country,  we  saw  there 
was  no  other  way  to  get  home  but  by  the  path  that  led 
through  this  crowd  of  beggars,  so  we  turned  to  re- 
trace our  steps.  As  we  approached  them,  we  saw  a 
movement  among  the  men,  and  knew  they  were  deter- 
mined to  hold  us  up  again.  We  hurried  by;  but  before 
we  had  gone  very  far,  a  number  of  men  seized  each 
of  us,  and  with  angry  looks  demanded  money.  We  gave 
them  all  we  had,  which  was  little  enough.  But  this 
did  not  satisfy  them;  wo  must  jjromise  to  send  them 
more. 

A  river  separated  us  from  the  city.  We  had  come 
across  on  the  ferry,  which  was  not  far  distant.  Gradu- 
ally we  edged  our.selves  along,  the  crowd  surrounding 
us  and  determined  not  to  let  us  go.  One  of  the  men 
.said,  "You  must  go  and  see  the  official  for  us,  and 
demand  that  he  let  us  cro.ss  the  river  and  beg  for 
food  in  the  city."  We  replied  that  we  had  no  power  to 
do  such  a  thing.    All  this  time,  we  were  getting  nearer 


186  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

the  ferry;  and  at  last  we  jumped  on,  although  several 
men  held  to  our  arms.  For  some  time,  they  would  not 
let  the  ferry  go.  Finally  a  Chinese  friend  who  was 
on  the  ferry  told  the  men  to  let  us  alone  and  begone. 
He  argued  with  them  determinedly,  and  after  a  while, 
they  angrily  jumped  off  the  boat,  and  with  threats 
let  us  go. 

During  this  time  of  famine,  hundreds  of  families 
turned  beggars;  and  as  they  became  desperate,  they 
began  to  rob.  Children  and  even  men  walking  along 
the  street,  seeing  a  stack  of  bread  in  front  of  some 
bakeshop,  would  step  up  as  if  to  buy,  snatch  a  piece 
of  bread,  and  bite  into  it  quickly,  thus  spoiling  its  sale. 

A  HOLDUP 

The  officials  ordered  these  poor  people  to  keep  out  of 
the  cities;  and  the  country  roads  became  very  unsafe, 
with  thousands  of  hungry  and  desperate  men  and 
women  all  about.  Late  one  afternoon,  I  took  my  little 
mule  to  go  for  a  ride  into  the  country,  that  being  the 
only  way  to  get  relief  from  the  narrow,  oppressive 
courtyards.  Much  as  Mrs.  Lee  desired  to  get  a  breath 
of  fresh  air,  it  was  often  impracticable.  I  rode  some 
distance  before  I  noticed  that  it  was  growing  dusk; 
then,  knowing  the  condition  of  the  country,  I  turned 
to  hasten  back.  Soon  I  saw  ahead  of  me,  in  front  of  a 
dilapidated  temple  opening  directly  off  the  road,  two 
suspicious  looking  men  pointing  in  my  direction. 
When  they  saw  that  they  were  observed,  they  im- 
mediately disappeared  within  the  temple. 

There  was  nothing  for  me  to  do  but  ride  on  as 
quickly  as  possible.  Just  as  I  came  abreast  of  the 
temple,  out  sprang  these  men,  caught  hold  of  the  mule, 
one  on  either  side,  and  angrily  demanded  money.     I 


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188  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

had  nothing  but  a  few  cash  with  me,  and  this  I  gave 
them.  They  shook  the  mule's  head  in  anger,  and 
started  to  search  me.  Striking  right  and  left  with  my 
little  bamboo  whip,  I  succeeded  in  loosening  their  hold 
on  the  frightened  burro,  which,  finding  itself  released, 
shot  forward  and  made  hasty  steps  for  home. 

DEATH  PREFERRED  TO  LIFE 

In  these  months  of  famine,  thousands  died  of  star- 
vation and  famine  fever,  many  falling  by  the  wayside 
without  burial.  Women  cast  away  their  children,  or 
disposed  of  them  in  some  other  way.  One  woman 
smothered  two  children  back  of  our  house.  Another, 
in  desperation,  threw  her  child  from  the  top  of  the 
city  wall  near  our  home. 

Two  hungry  men  were  sleeping  in  an  old,  filthy 
temple.  One  awakened,  and  seeing  the  other  asleep, 
thought  him  dead.  Looking  all  about  to  see  if  any  one 
was  near,  he  took  out  a  knife,  and  started  to  cut  some 
flesh  from  the  man's  exposed  leg.  With  a  yell,  the 
man  awoke,  and  the  frightened  would-be  cannibal  fled 
as  fast  as  his  legs  would  carry  him.  Frequent  rumors 
came  to  us  from  distant  villages  of  parents  cooking 
and  eating  their  little  ones.  Many  times,  mothers 
asked  us  to  buy  their  children,  often  for  as  little  as  a 
dollar  apiece. 

As  winter  progressed  and  spring  came  on,  the  fam- 
ine became  worse  and  worse.  Those  who  had  escaped 
death  were  stricken  with  famine  fever,  which  in  most 
cases  overcame  its  victim  in  less  than  six  days.  One 
day,  a  wagonload  of  dead  were  taken  from  the  city,  and 
thrown  into  a  large  hole  just  outside  the  north  gate. 
Throughout  the  nights,  the  moans  and  cries  of  little 


EARLY  EXPERIENCES  IN  OLD  CATHAY      189 

children  on  the  street  came  to  our  ears,  driving  sleep 
from  us.  Children,  mere  skeletons,  of  five  and  six 
years,  wandered  about  without  father,  mother,  friends, 
or  shelter  of  any  kind. 

FAMINE  RELIEF 

A  little  money  came  into  our  hands,  and  we  did  the 
best  we  could  to  care  for  a  few  of  these  unfortunates. 
Other  missions  also  helped,  and  the  government  sent 
wheat  and  money;  but  the  small  amount  each  person 
received  seemed  only  to  prolong  his  days  of  starvation. 
One  day,  I  visited  a  relief  station  where  those  who 
had  received  tickets  (these  were  passed  out  at  mid- 
night each  day)  could  secure  a  bowl  of  food.  Never 
shall  I  forget  that  awful  scene, —  the  long  line  of  dis- 
tressed people,  some  almost  too  weak  to  stand,  wait- 
ing their  turn  to  receive  a  bowl  of  soup,  the  stronger 
shoving  the  weaker  ones  aside  and  receiving  their  food 
first.  Here  an  old  woman,  a  mere  bundle  of  bones, 
staggered  along  with  a  dirty  bowl  in  her  claw-like 
hands;  there  men  once  strong  walked  on  legs  that 
looked  like  sticks,  their  eyes  sunken,  and  the  skin  tight 
drawn  over  the  high  cheek  bones;  over  there  some  poor 
creature,  too  weak  to  walk,  was  crawling  along  on 
hands  and  knees.  The  sight  haunted  me  for  days. 
Such  suffering  and  mi.sery  can  never  be  understood  by 
those  who  have  not  seen  it  and  lived  in  the  midst  of  it. 

Hardly  a  year  pa.sses  in  China  that  does  not  bring 
its  famine,  more  or  less  severe,  to  some  part  of  the 
land.  No  wonder  those  who  know  the  blessed  hope, 
long  for  the  day  when  King  Jesus  will  say  of  His 
people,  "They  shall  hunger  no  more,  neither  thirst 
any   more." 


The  Missionary  at  Work 

Frederick  Lee 
"COME" 

From  distant  Shensi,  far  beyond  the  reach  of  rail- 
ways, came  one  day  early  in  1915  a  letter  telling  of 
many  who  were  interested  in  the  truth  we  love,  and 
of  some  already  keeping  the  Sabbath.  They  had  re- 
ceived this  light  from  a  faithful  colporteur  who 
had  visited  their  village  and  remained  with  them 
many  days. 

The  letter  closed  with  the  plea:  "Oh,  pastor,  we  want 
more  help;  and  unless  we  have  it,  perhaps  the  little 
flock  will  scatter!    Come,  oh,  come,  and  visit  us!" 

SHENSI    MENTIONED    IN    PROPHECY 

Shensi  is  the  most  interesting  as  well  as  the  most 
ancient  province  of  all  China.  It  is  called  "the  cradle 
of  the  Chinese  race."  Not  only  is  it  renowned  in  pro- 
fane history,  but  it  is  also  mentioned  in  the  sacred 
page.  Seven  hundred  years  before  Christ,  Isaiah  said, 
"Behold,  these  shall  come  from  far:  and,  lo,  these  from 
the  north  and  from  the  west ;  and  these  from  the  land, 
of  Sinim."  Isa.  49 :  12.  And  it  is  generally  agreed 
that  "the  people  of  Sinim  are  the  Sinese  [Chinese]. 
Chin  was  the  name  of  a  kingdom  of  some  importance 
in  Shensi,  one  of  the  western  provinces  of  the  Si- 
nese land." 

According  to  Chinese  chronology,  the  first  king  of 
Chin  reigned  185  years  before  Isaiah  wrote  his  proph- 
ecy. It  is  from  this  kingdom  that  China  derived  its 
name.  Sianfu,  the  capital  of  Shensi,  has  been  the 
royal  city  of  four  great  dynasties:  the  Djou  dynasty 
(190) 


THE  MISSIONARY  AT  WORK  191 

at  the  time  of  Samuel;  the  Chin  dynasty;  the  Han 
dynasty  at  the  time  of  Christ;  and  the  glorious  dy- 
nasty of  Tang.  This  city  is  said  to  have  been  founded 
by  Wu  Wang,  the  martial  king  of  the  Djou  dynasty, 
in  the  twelfth  century  b.  c,  or  about  the  time  of 
Samuel.  When  Isaiah  uttered  his  prophecy,  the  Si- 
nese  country  was  no  doubt  a  place  of  fame. 

The  prophet,  even  at  that  early  date,  looked  forward 
to  the  consummation  of  the  gospel  in  all  the  earth ;  and 
having  seen  its  workings  in  western  and  northern 
lands,  he  turned  to  the  east,  where  his  eyes  fell  upon 
the  oriental  kingdom  of  Chin,  which  is  now  the  Chi- 
nese province  of  Shensi.  And,  as  he  looked,  he  saw, 
as  it  were,  little  lights  bursting  forth  in  the  darkness, 
and  knew  them  to  be  the  lights  of  the  goypel  of  the 
kingdom,  shining  forth  from  the  hearts  of  men  and 
women.  Then  he  saw  angels  going  forth  in  the  last 
day  to  the  four  corners  of  the  earth,  gleaning  its  last 
harvest.  Some  flew  to  the  west,  and  others  to  the 
north;  but  still  others  flew  straight  to  this  land,  and 
returned  to  the  heavenly  garner  with  their  arms  over- 
flowing with  the  golden  grain  they  had  gleaned. 

A  BIT  OF  HISTORY 
Shensi  derives  its  name,  "West  of  the  Pass,"  from 
the  fact  that  it  is  situated  to  the  west  of  the  famous 
pass  of  Tungkwan,  near  the  bend  of  the  Yellow  River 
where  the  three  provinces  of  Shensi,  Shansi,  and  Ho- 
nan  join.  It  has  an  area  of  75,270  square  miles,— 
about  equal  to  that  of  England,  Wales,  and  Scotland 
combined.  It  also  has  the  .same  general  shape  (that 
of  a  cone)  as  the  isle  of  Britain,  its  narrow  peak 
piercing  the  Great  Wall  and  entering  into  the  sands 


192  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

of  Mongolia,  and  its  broad  base  resting  upon  the  high 
mountains  separating  the  province  from  Szechuan. 

Shensi  is  divided  exactly  in  tv^^o  by  a  well  marked 
chain  of  mountains,  which  has  an  altitude  of  11,000 
feet.  The  northern  valley,  or  the  Sian  Plain,  is  the 
shape  of  an  oval.  It  has  about  "four  thousand  square 
miles;  and  into  this  are  crowded  the  capital,  thirty- 
four  cities,  and  an  average  of  one  market  place  to 
every  square  mile."  In  the  center  of  this  plain  lies 
the  stately  city  of  Sian,  where  many  historic  battles 
have  been  fought,  and  through  it  runs  the  ancient 
highway  of  intercourse  with  Western  countries. 

The  whole  face  of  the  country  is  covered  with  huge 
grave  mounds,  the  burial  places  of  the  great  kings  of 
the  East.  Here  lie  the  remains  of  Shih  Hwang  Di, 
famous  in  history  for  the  destruction  of  all  the  books 
in  China,  and  credited  with  the  building  of  the  Great 
Wall.  His  grave  mound  covers  many  acres.  In  1900, 
Sianfu  was  a  city  of  refuge  for  the  Chinese  court 
when  it  fled  from  Peking. 

THE  PEOPLE  OF  SHENSI 

The  population  of  Shensi  is  only  about  eight  and 
one  half  millions.  This  is  a  very  light  population  in 
comparison  with  that  of  other  of  China's  provinces. 
Honan,  which  has  a  smaller  area,  has  thirty-five  mil- 
lions; and  Shantung,  with  one  quarter  less  area,  has 
thirty-eight  millions.  This  small  population  has  re- 
sulted from  the  many  rebellions  and  famines  through 
which  the  province  has  passed.  Even  to-day  we  see 
the  results  of  these  calamities. 

Shensi  was  no  doubt  the  first  province  of  all  China 
to  receive  the  gospel,  probably  as  early  as  the  fifth 


!:M 


•f^ 


< 
U 

O 


H 
U 

H 


i:( 


(iy:3) 


194  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

century  after  Christ,  and  there  are  traditions  of 
an  earlier  date.  In  the  Hall  of  Ancient  Tablets  in 
Sianfu,  in  which  are  preserved  more  than  three  hun- 
dred ancient  slabs,  there  are  two  stone  tablets  bearing 
the  picture  of  one  "Thomas,  who  came  from  the  west." 
While  the  tradition  of  Thomas's  trip  to  China  is  not 
well  founded,  yet  there  is  in  this  celebrated  museum 
one  slab  giving  positive  proof  that  at  a  very  early 
date  Christianity  was  widely  known  in  the  empire, 
and  was  in  favor  at  court.  This  is  the  Nestorian 
Tablet,  bearing  a  date  equivalent  to  A.  D.  781. 

The  tablet  records  the  travels  of  Nestorian  mis- 
sionaries from  Syria,  who  arrived  in  the  empire  in 
A.  D.  635.  These  men  were  ushered  into  the  emperor's 
presence,  the  slab  says,  and  "the  sacred  books  were 
translated  in  the  imperial  library.  The  sovereign  in- 
vestigated the  subject  in  his  private  apartment.  When 
he  became  deeply  impressed  with  the  rectitude  and 
truth  of  the  religion,  he  gave  special  orders  for  its 
dissemination."  The  record  further  states  that  "while 
this  doctrine  pervaded  every  channel,  the  state  became 
enriched,  and  tranquillity  abounded.  Every  city  was 
full  of  churches,  and  the  royal  family  enjoyed  luster 
and  happiness."  Many  of  the  phrases  used  on  this 
tablet  can  apply  only  to  the  Christian-doctrine.  When 
this  form  of  Christianity  had  become  quite  flourish- 
ing, the  Mohammedans  entered  the  country,  and  ut- 
terly wiped  it  out,  so  that  later  there  were  but  few 
traces  of  this  sect. 

MODERN   MISSIONS 

The  part  of  Shensi  in  which  we  are  most  interested 
is  the   most  famous  part  of  the  province,   the  Sian 


THE  MISSIONARY  AT  WORK  195 

Plain.  The  entry  of  the  gospel  into  this  region  is 
connected  with  an  interesting  immigration  of  native 
Christians  from  the  province  of  Shantung,  mostly 
members  of  the  English  Baptist  Church. 

I  will  relate  the  story  as  told  to  me  by  one  of  the 
leaders  of  this  company,  v^^ho,  thus  migrating  from 
their  homeland,  were  the  first  to  bring  the  light  of 
the  gospel  to  North  Shensi.  This  man  was  one  of 
those  who  founded  "Gospel  Village,"  all  the  members 
of  which  were  Christians. 

Over  thirty  years  ago,  when  famine  was  raging  in 
Shantung,  hundreds  of  persons  emigrated  to  Shansi 
and  Shensi.  Pastor  Liu,  with  a  party  of  a  hundred 
of  his  neighbors  and  friends,  started  out  with  their 
possessions  on  the  long  journey  of  nearly  one  thou- 
sand miles  to  the  west.  The  women  and  the  children 
rode  in  the  two- wheeled  carts;  most  of  the  time,  the 
men  walked.  When  they  had  traveled  for  eighteen 
days,  their  money  ran  out,  so  they  stopped  for  a  time 
in  Honan.  Here  they  pas.sed  through  many  trials, 
often  having  hardly  enough  to  eat.  But  Pastor  Liu 
was  brave.  He  understood  somewhat  the  use  of  for- 
eign medicines,  and  the  money  he  took  in  from  "doc- 
toring" practically  supported  most  of  the  party  for 
a  number  of  weeks. 

After  a  time,  they  decided  to  settle  in  Shansi.  But 
when  they  came  to  the  Yellow  River,  to  cross  over 
into  that  province,  the  official,  for  some  rea.son  or 
other,  would  not  permit  them  to  pass.  On  their  re- 
turning to  the  place  where  they  had  been  staying, 
they  heard  that  land  was  very  cheap  in  Shensi,  and 
decided  to  go  there. 


196  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

At  first,  they  were  too  poor  to  buy  land,  even  at  one 
dollar  an  acre,  some  of  them  living  in  a  broken-down 
temple  and  others  in  caves.  It  was  while  they  were 
living  in  a  filthy  temple,  that  both  Pastor  Liii  and 
his  mother  became  seriously  ill,  his  mother  dying  in 
a  few  days.  But  during  all  these  trials,  their  faith 
in  God  did  not  waver. 

After  the  party  had  acquired  some  property,  they 
founded  a  village,  and  called  it  "Gospel  Village." 
Here  they  established  Christian  schools  for  their  chil- 
dren, and  from  here  they  let  their  light  shine  forth 
into  the  country  about  them. 

EXPERIENCES  OF  PASTOR  LIU 

It  is  interesting  to  hear  old  Pastor  Liu  relate  some 
of  the  experiences  they  had  when  opening  chapels  in 
various  cities,  and  especially  in  Sianfu,  the  capital. 
The  difficulties  were  many,  as  the  people  were  very 
suspicious,  although  not  anti-foreign.  It  was  hard 
for  a  foreigner  to  enter  the  city. 

One  day.  Pastor  Liu  and  one  of  the  foreign  mis- 
sionaries started  off  to  visit  Sianfu.  Knowing  that 
they  would  be  hindered  from  going  in  if  the  police 
knew  a  foreigner  was  along,  they  stopped  before  com- 
ing to  the  city.  The  missionary  took  off  his  coat,  and 
wrapping  his  head  in  a  towel,  told  Mr.  Liu  to  put  on 
his  coat  and  to  mount  their  horse.  The  foreigner, 
leading  the  horse,  passed  on  into  the  city  without 
being  suspected,  the  police  thinking  he  was  only  a 
coolie.  At  this  time,  the  missionary  and  Pastor  Liu 
remained  several  days,  scattering  tracts.  Another 
time  when  they  were  visiting  the  city,  the  people  found 


PASTOR  LIU  AND  A  GOSPEL  VILLAGE  CONVEKT 

(197) 


198  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

out  who  they  were,  and  came  in  a  mob,  and  with  the 
clashing  of  gongs,  drove  them  from  the  place. 

Of  course,  it  was  difficult  to  find  any  one  who  would 
rent  a  place  to  them.  And  the  official  required  some 
person  known  in  the  city  to  be  a  "guarantee  man" 
for  them.  They  were  acquainted  with  no  one;  but 
they  decided  to  do  all  their  business  with  one  mer- 
chant, who  at  last  became  friendly.  When  they  told 
him  they  were  seeking  a  place  to  rent,  he  let  them 
have  one  of  his  own  houses,  and  also  became  their 
"guarantee  man."  Their  first  strong  foothold  was 
secured  in  1894. 

As  we  rode  along  one  day  in  our  Chinese  cart  over 
the  Sian  Plain,  Pastor  Liu  said  he  had  seen  much 
of  the  power  of  the  evil  one.  In  his  father's  home, 
before  they  were  Christians,  if  at  any  time  they 
neglected  to  worship  the  devil,  or  cursed  him,  there 
was  trouble  in  the  house.  Heavy  stones  or  bricks 
would  fall  on  the  table  before  which  they  were  sitting, 
or  they  would  hear  a  heavy  tramping  through  the 
house.  Pastor  Liu  said  that  this  was  a  common  oc- 
currence. "No  wonder,"  he  said,  "that  when  one 
knows  nothing  of  the  power  of  God,  he  fears  and 
serves  the  devil."  But  after  he  had  become  a  Chris- 
tian, none  of  these  things  bothered  him,  and  he"  has 
had  the  privilege  of  helping  others  break  the  bands 
of  the  evil  one. 

There  was  one  woman  who  was  especially  possessed 
of  the  devil;  but  as  she  used  this  power  to  her  own 
advantage,  she  did  not  care  to  break  away  from  it. 
She  said  the  only  person  she  feared  was  Pastor  Liu. 
One  day,  when  this  woman  was  in  one  of  her  fits  of 
devil  possession,  a  relative  of  hers,  a  heathen,  came 


(199) 


200  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

to  the  pastor,  and  pleaded  that  he  come  and  heal  her. 
Others  in  the  chapel  said  that  the  woman  had  great 
power,  and  that  if  he  could  not  cast  out  the  evil  one, 
it  would  bring  the  gospel  into  disgrace.  But  he  an- 
swered them  that  it  was  not  he  who  was  able  to  do 
this  great  work,  but  God.  He  prayed  earnestly  for 
the  woman,  and  the  evil  spirit  immediately  left  her. 

ANSWERING  THE  CALL 

Many  and  varied  are  the  calls  for  help  which  come 
to  the  missionary.  But  the  calls  which  must  have 
precedence  over  everything  else  are  those  which  urge 
us  to  come  to  some  village  or  city,  near  or  far  distant, 
to  give  instruction  in  the  truth  to  hungering  souls. 
Often  temporal  labors  intrude  to  hinder,  or  dangers 
stand  in  the  way;  but  a  true  missionary  must  be 
ready,  if  need  be,  to  give  the  truth  at  the  peril  of 
his  life. 

The  most  arduous  labors  of  the  missionary  are  those 
which  he  performs  in  the  slow  and  difficult  work  of 
visiting  outstations,  and  answering  the  calls  which 
come  to  him  from  far-away  places.  If  you  want  to 
see  the  missionary  at  ivork,  do  not  visit  him  at  a 
central  station,  where  he  enjoys  a  few  of  the  comforts 
of  the  homeland,  but  go  with  him  when  he  leaves  all 
that  behind,  and  travels  long  and  tedious  hours  by 
mule  cart,  wheelbarrow,  sedan  chair,  house  boat,  etc., 
to  strange  cities  and  villages. 

REVOLUTION  IN  SHENSI 
One  year  from  the  time  I  received  the  letter  men- 
tioned in  the  first  part  of  this  chapter,  we  planned 
to  visit  Shensi. 


THE  MISSIONARY  AT  WORK  201 

Just  at  this  time  (the  spring  of  1916),  revolution 
was  springing  up  in  many  provinces.  We  also  heard 
rumors  that  thousands  of  bandits  Vi^ere  taking  ad- 
vantage of  the  unstable  government,  and  raiding 
towns  and  cities  in  all  northern  Shensi,  However, 
we  wrote  to  the  inquirers  that  we  were  coming,  and 
would  hold  a  ten  days'  meeting  with  them. 

Much  thought  and  preparation  were  necessary  be- 
fore we  started  on  the  journey.  Folding  cots,  bed- 
ding, and  food  must  be  taken,  and  nothing  must  be 
forgotten.  One  time,  through  carelessness,  my  cot  was 
left  behind;  and  during  a  two  weeks'  journey,  I  bought 
straw  at  each  place  where  I  stopped,  spread  it  on  the 
ground,  and  slept  on  that. 

Finally  all  was  ready.  Bedding  and  cots  were 
rolled  up  in  oilcloth  covers;  cracker  crumbs,  canned 
milk,  rice,  and  cereal  coffee,  the  staples  of  many  an 
itinerating  trip,  were  packed.  We  were  ready  for 
the  call  to  start  in  the  early  morning  hours. 

"Mu  shi,  chi  lai,  chi  lai!"    ("Pastor,  get  up,  get  up!") 

It  seemed  to  me  that  I  had  only  closed  my  eyes 
when  this  call  sounded  beneath  my  bedroom  window; 
and  as  I  did  not  immediately  respond,  it  came  again: 
"Mu  shi,  kivai,  kivai,  chi  lai!" 

With  that  I  called  back,  and  was  soon  dressed  and 
ready  to  start.  Many  of  our  Chinese  friends  were  at 
the  door  to  take  our  baggage,  which  was  placed  on  a 
wheelbarrow  and  pushed  to  the  station. 

Mo.st  of  the  time,  the  missionary  must  travel  with 
only  native  helpers;  so  he  is  happy  when  he  can  have 
the  company  of  a  white  friend.  Such  a  treat  I  had  on 
this  trip;  for  Dr.  A.  C.  Selmon,  a  veteran  in  China, 
was  my  companion. 


202  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

It  is  not  far  to  the  railway  station,  and  soon  we 
are  there.  All  is  hustle  and  fuss.  Many  soldiers  and 
police  are  standing  about.  Our  baggage  is  thrown  on 
the  scales,  and  we  must  pay  for  every  ounce  over- 
weight. Soon  the  crowded  train  pulls  in,  and  there 
is  a  grand  scramble  to  find  some  way  of  getting  on. 
Without  a  "system,"  this  is  hard  to  do  when  traveling 
third-class.  Crowds  are  getting  off  and  on,  and  all 
have  their  arms  full  of  baggage  of  every  variety. 
Boxes  and  suit  cases  and  hand  bags  become  entangled, 
men  and  women  become  jammed  in  the  doorway,  and 
there  is  much  shouting. 

We  leave  our  baggage  outside  the  train,  with  friends 
who  have  come  with  us,  jump  on  the  train  empty- 
handed,  and  rush  to  an  open  window,  through  which 
our  baggage  is  tossed.  Even  then  we  are  puzzled  as 
to  where  to  put  it,  and  a  portion  of  it  is  dropped  un- 
intentionally into  some  one's  lap,  or  is  piled  up  in  the 
aisle.  We  must  get  it  all  on  before  the  train  starts, 
and  naturally  we  are  anxious.  When  it  is  stowed 
away,  we  look  around  for  a  seat,  and  perhaps  cannot 
find  one  except  on  top  of  our  baggage.  Here  in  these 
crowded  cars  are  scores  of  unwashed  Chinese,  packed 
in  like  bees  in  a  hive,  smoking,  spitting,  blowing  the 
nose,  picking  lively  objects  running  about  their  bodies, 
laughing,  joking,  talking  loudly,  and  having  a  general 
good  time,  while  riding  on  the  "fire  wagon." 

Soon  the  conductor  and  his  lieutenants  come  edging 
their  way  through  the  crowd.  Quite  a  procession  they 
make  —  two  conductors,  three  policemen,  and  three 
or  more  soldiers.  The  conductor  punches  the  tickets, 
the  policemen  peer  behind  the  baggage  on  the  shelf 
above  our  heads  for  some  one  who  may  be  trying  to 


(c)  Internalioniil  /■'ilm 
COVKKTY   NO   HAU  TO    IIAPIMNKSS 


(203) 


204  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

smuggle  a  ride,  and  the  soldiers  look  severe  to  scare 
those  who  think  they  can  get  a  ride  without  paying 
the  fee.  Away  they  go,  one,  two,  three,  in  all  the 
dignity  their  ill  fitting  uniforms  can  give. 

Once  the  police  discover  a  little  boy  riding  behind 
some  baggage  on  the  broad  shelf.  As  they  roughly 
pull  him  down,  the  poor  little  fellow  cries  aloud,  and 
gives  all  sorts  of  excuses ;  but  off  he  is  tumbled  at  the 
next  station,  whether  far  from  home  or  near  we  know 
not.  Three  hours  we  ride  on  this  crowded  train, 
alighting  finally  at  a  city  where  we  have  an  out- 
station,  and  where  we  must  change  cars  for  the  west. 

AT  THE  "SABBATH   HALL" 

Up  the  narrow  and  dirty  streets  we  go,  searching 
for  the  little  street  chapel.  "Can  you  tell  us  where 
the  Sabbath  Hall  is?"  we  ask  a  shopkeeper. 

"Oh,  yes,"  he  replies.  "Go  east  to  the  second  street, 
and  then  turn  and  go  south,  and  you  will  find  it  near 
the  south  gate." 

With  a  deep  bow,  we  thank  him  and  proceed.  Ar- 
riving at  the  chapel,  the  front  of  which  is  open  to 
the  street,  we  find  a  meeting  going  on.  The  evangelist 
is  loudly  singing,  and  thus  attracting  a  crowd,  who 
come  in,  sit  down  on  the  long  benches  provided  for 
them,  and  look  at  the  wonderful  pictures  on  the  walls. 
Prayer  is  offered,  while  the  heathen  audience  look  on 
in  amazement.  Soon  the  preacher  is  deep  in  his 
sermon,  telling  the  listeners  the  uselessness  of  an  idol. 
"It  cannot  hear,  see,  talk,  nor  walk.  The  temple  roof 
sags  down  over  its  head,  endangering  the  august  one, 
but  it  sits  there  helpless.  The  chair  on  which  the  idol 
is  sitting  rots  away,  and  it  falls  indifferently  to  the 


THE  MISSIONARY  AT  WORK  205 

ground.  Oh,  how  helpless  the  poor  thing  is!  How 
foolish  it  is  to  expect  assistance  from  such  an  object 
as  that!" 

So  the  preacher  talks  to  his  audience,  who  sit  with 
blank  stare,  not  taking  in  half  that  is  said.  One  or 
two  become  interested,  however,  and  stay  after  the 
meeting,  to  ask  questions  about  the  pictures  on  the 
wall.  The  names  and  addresses  of  these  persons  are 
taken,  and  later  they  are  visited.  Gradually  they  ac- 
cept the  truths  of  the  gospel,  the  blank  eyes  become 
clear  and  bright,  the  bowed  bodies  stand  more  erect. 
The  whole  appearance  of  one  making  the  great  change 
from  heathenism  to  the  gospel  is  transformed;  he 
becomes  indeed  a  new  man.  And  this  change  is  com- 
ing to  hundreds,  yes,  thousands,  of  men  and  women 
in  China. 

A  TRYING  EXPERIENCE 

Again  we  return  to  our  train,  and  start  west.  For 
some  reason,  there  is  no  one  at  the  station  to  weigh 
our  baggage,  so  we  get  on  without  having  that  im- 
portant ceremony  performed.  But  we  must  never  ex- 
pect to  get  ahead  of  the  vigilant  guards  on  a  Chinese 
railv^ay  train.  Soon  the  conductor  and  the  baggage- 
man come  marching  through;  and  the  latter,  seeing 
our  many  packages  scattered  about,  steps  up  and  asks 
us  if  we  have  had  our  baggage  weighed.  No,  it  has 
not  been  weighed ;  there  was  no  one  at  the  station  to 
weigh  it. 

With  this,  he  went  off  without  saying  a  word,  and 
we  felt  that  our  troubles  in  that  direction  were  over. 
In.stead,  they  were  only  beginning. 

When  the  train  stopped  at  the  next  station,  several 
policemen  came  in,  and  ordered  us  to  take  our  bag- 


206  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

gage  oflf  to  be  weighed.  The  train  waited  until  every 
piece  was  weighed,  checked  up,  and  put  back.  After 
a  while,  the  agent  came  in  with  his  excess  bill.  As 
he  was  charging  a  two  dollar  fine  besides  the  excess, 
we  refused  to  pay.  He  argued  with  us  for  an  hour; 
but  we  were  determined,  and  said  we  would  talk  with 
the  station  agent  at  the  end  of  the  line.  The  baggage- 
man then  left  us,  and  detailed  a  policeman  to  watch 
us  and  our  baggage  to  the  end  of  the  road,  where  he 
took  us  and  it  in  charge,  and  led  us  to  the  station 
agent.  There  we  haggled  and  wrangled  for  half  an 
hour;  and  when  we  saw  there  would  be  no  relenting, 
we  paid  the  unjust  charge  and  went  away. 

ONWARD  BY   FREIGHT  TRAIN  AND   MULE  CART 

Next  morning,  we  were  ready  to  go  on.  We  traveled 
by  freight  train  this  time.  It  was  very  slow,  and  took 
from  7  a.  m.  until  2  p.  m.  to  reach  the  end  of  the  line, 
sixty  miles  away.  This  was  the  terminus  of  all  rail- 
roads, so  we  had  to  look  for  other  traveling  conven- 
iences from  there  on.  Arriving  at  the  Chinese  inn 
about  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  we  sent  our  Chinese 
friends  to  look  for  a  mule  cart,  by  which  conveyance 
we  must  travel  the  next  six  or  seven  days. 

Now  a  mule  cart  is  neither  the  best  nor  the  worst 
of  the  modes  of  travel  in  the  Orient.  It  is  not  so 
good  nor  swift  as  the  slow  freight  train,  nor  so  bad 
as  the  wheelbarrow,  on  which  we  have  been  pushed 
many  a  mile.  Nevertheless,  it  is  bad  enough,  being 
a  heavy,  "bunglesome"  affair,  on  two  huge  wheels, 
with  a  top,  which  is  like  a  dog  kennel,  directly  above 
the  axle.  No  springs  are  provided  to  absorb  the 
shocks  that  the  traveler  receives  on  the  rough  roads. 


THE  MISSIONARY  AT  WORK  207 

Apparently  the  Chinese,  having  no  nerves,  have  never 
thought  of  shock  absorbers. 

It  is  indeed  a  problem  to  secure  one  of  these  carts, 
especially  if  the  mule  driver  knov^^s  that  his  prospec- 
tive passenger  is  anxious  to  move.  At  first,  he  will 
ask  prices  entirely  beyond  reason;  but  after  some 
hours  of  wrangling,  a  price  is  fixed,  and  a  contract  is 
made  by  which  he  agrees  to  deliver  us  to  a  certain 
village  at  a  fixed  price,  of  course  expecting  that  we 
will  give  him  a  little  more  at  the  end  of  the  line.  We 
breathe  a  sigh  of  relief  when  these  diplomatic  dispu- 
tations are  over,  and  we  are  again  on  our  way. 

But  never  be  too  sure  of  a  Chinese  carter.  He  has 
tricks  you  never  dreamed  of,  and  schemes  you  will 
never  find  out.  We  have  learned,  when  he  turns  up 
any  of  his  excuses,  and  with  a  bland  expression  says 
that  the  cart  is  too  heavily  loaded,  and  that  he  can- 
not go  another  step,  to  keep  calm,  and  tell  him,  "Buh 
yao  gin"  ("It  makes  no  difference  to  us  whether  you 
take  us  or  not"),  then  sit  quietly,  saying  nothing. 
Soon  he  will  begin  swearing  a  blue  streak,  and  taking 
up  his  whip,  will  give  the  poor  mules  a  crack  under 
the  hind  legs,  and  with  a  leap  the  animals  start  off 
at  a  gallop.  Soon,  however,  they  settle  down  to  a 
more  moderate  pace,  and  we  are  going  at  the  rate  of 
about  thirty  miles  a  day. 

NOT  A  PLEASURE  TRIP 

We  have  six  "stage.s"  ahead  of  us,  each  one  a  long 
day's  journey.  We  must  arise  before  daylight,  roll 
up  our  bedding,  fold  up  our  cot,  take  a  sip  of  cereal 
coffee  and  a  few  bites  of  cracker,  pack  up  our  dishes, 
and  load  the  cart.    As  the  first  tints  of  dawn  are  .seen 


208 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


in  the  east,  we  are  traveling  down  the  dark  and  lonely 
road.  We  keep  on  the  way  until  noon,  at  which  time 
the  mules  must  be  fed,  and  we  too  need  something 
to  eat. 

We  stop  for  an  hour,  off  comes  our  lunch  box,  the 
oil  stove  is  set  up,  the  water  is  soon  boiling,  and  the 
"dinner"  of  tinned  milk,  cracker  crumbs,  and  cereal 
coffee  is  waiting  to  be  eaten. 

After  dinner,  we  try  to  take  a  little  rest;  but  just 
as  we  fall  asleep,  a  yell  from  the  carter  announces 
that  we  must  be  going.  So  on  we  go  until  evening, 
when  we  arrive  at  a  desolate  little  village  in  the  foot- 
hills, and  turn  into  the  muddy  courtyard  of  a  tumble- 
down inn.    Being  glad,  after  a  hard  day's  ride,  to  have 


COOLIES  IN  SUMMER  DRESS,  SHANGHAI 


THE   MISSIONARY  AT  WORK  209 

even  such  a  shelter, —  with  the  cattle,  barnyard  fowls, 
and  vermin-covered  coolies,^ — -  we  jump  down  from  our 
cart,  unload  our  baggage,  open  up  our  cots,  unroll 
our  bedding,  and  proceed  to  make  our  beds. 

Oh,  how  we  would  like  to  roll  right  in!  But  after 
riding  all  day  in  clouds  of  dust,  we  have  other  business 
to  attend  to  first.  We  must  shake  ourselves,  and  dust 
ourselves,  and  brush  ourselves,  and  scrub  ourselves, 
then  wash  and  rinse  ourselves,  after  which  we  have  a 
little  feeling  of  cleanliness.  Then  we  must  have  a 
moment  or  two  to  eat,  and  to  write  in  our  diaries. 
After  reading  a  chapter  in  the  Bible,  and  kneeling  to 
ask  God's  guidance  and  protection,  we  lie  down  to  rest. 

Many  such  a  day  does  the  missionary  spend  when 
answering  the  calls  that  come  to  him.  The  gift  of 
adaptability  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  to  be  found 
in  his  pack.  With  it  he  can  become  accustomed  to 
strange  methods  of  travel,  and  to  inconveniences  and 
hardships  that  stagger  the  beginner.  And  when  he 
is  not  thinking  of  the  obstacles  in  the  way,  he  finds 
time  to  observe  and  enjoy  many  strange  sights. 

A  COUNTRY  OF  CAVE  DWELLERS 
On  this  trip  to  Shensi,  I  was  especially  intere.sted 
in  the  homes  of  the  cave  dwellers.  For  three  days,  we 
traveled  through  a  portion  of  western  Honaii,  where 
thousands  of  Chinese  live  in  the  ground.  During 
these  days,  we  rarely  saw  a  house.  I  remember  espe- 
cially a  view  from  the  top  of  one  high  plateau.  We 
could  sec  long  distances  in  several  directions,  but  there 
was  no  sign  of  a  human  dwelling,  in  spite  of  the  wav- 
ing fields  of  grain  all  through  the  valleys  and  on  the 
terraced  hills. 


14 


210  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

Observing  closely,  we  saw  persons  coming  out  of 
the  openings  on  the  sides  of  the  plateaus.  In  other 
places,  clusters  of  trees  hid  the  cave  homes  from  view. 
Intelligent,  kindly,  and  susceptible  to  the  gospel  are 
these  cave  dwellers.  But  they  are  poor,  and  unable  to 
afford  homes  built  of  straw,  wood,  or  brick.  The  con- 
dition of  the  earth  has  helped  these  poverty-stricken 
people.  Caves  can  be  easily  dug,  and  made  into  cozy 
though  dark  homes.  There  are  now  some  families  of 
Adventists  who  live  in  such  caves;  and  they  are  as 
earnest,  and  love  this  truth  as  sincerely,  as  any  of  us. 

The  soil  here  has  a  peculiar  and  very  adhesive  for- 
mation, called  the  loess  formation,  being  composed  of 
fine  particles  of  sand,  clay,  and  lime.  There  is  one 
stratum  of  this  earth,  often  considerably  more  than  a 
thousand  feet  thick,  which,  because  of  the  cohesive- 
ness  of  the  substance,  is  very  solid.  If  the  outer 
coating  of  an  embankment  is  scraped  off,  the  exposed 
surface  looks  like  a  concrete  wall.  However,  when  par- 
ticles or  chunks  are  broken  off,  they  are  easily  crushed 
to  a  very  fine  powder;  and  this,  vi^ith  the  least  wind,  is 
carried  up  in  dense  clouds  of  dust  and  blown  away. 
Naturally  this  condition  has  greatly  affected  the  roads, 
which  in  this  territory  are  very  old. 

A  "good  roads"  movement  NEEDED 
The  traffic  of  a  thousand  years,  with  the  heavy  cart 
wheels  grinding  a  little  of  the  surface  soil  to  powder 
at  every  turn,  the  winds,  and  the  rains,  have  through 
the  years  worn  the  roadbeds  away  from  thirty  to  fifty 
feet  below  the  surrounding  territory.  In  .some  places 
where  the  route  leads  up  the  sides  of  the  plateau,  we 
traveled  in  a  canon-like  road  a  hundred  feet  deep.    For 


THE  MISSIONARY  AT  WORK  211 

.three  daj's,  at  one  time,  we  journeyed  on  these  roads, 
in  most  places  hardly  wide  enough  for  two  carts  to 
pass.  For  two  hours  at  one  stretch,  we  rode  along  in 
the  heavy  clouds  of  dust  stirred  up  by  the  dozen  or 
more  carts  that  were  often  ahead  of  us,  without  com- 
ing out  into  the  open.  We  donned  our  goggles,  and 
tied  handkerchiefs  over  our  noses  and  mouths;  but 
still  the  dust  sifted  into  our  lungs. 

After  some  time,  we  discovered  a  little  footpath 
leading  from  the  road  away  up  the  sides  to  the  top  of 
the  canon,  one  hundred  feet  above  us.  Jumping  from 
the  cart,  we  hurried  up  the  path,  and  were  surprised 
at  the  change.  Here  was  a  high  plateau,  many  miles 
wide,  covered  with  fields  of  waving  green.  The  air 
was  clear,  and  the  soft  breezes  were  cool.  What  a 
change  one  short  moment  of  rising  above  the  dust  and 
darkness  beneath  had  brought  us!  We  turned  and 
looked  below,  where,  through  the  cloud  of  dust,  we 
could  see  the  long  line  of  carts  moving  slowly  through 
the  deep  lane;  and  we  decided  to  walk  until  we  were 
tired,  at  least.  iMany  times  the  path  led  back  to  the 
canon  below,  but  up  again  it  would  turn  to  the  fresh 
air  above. 

WHKN   TWO  CARTS    MEET 

We  had  an  amusing  experience  as  we  traveled  along 
these  roads.  One  is  constantly  afraid  that  a  cart  will 
swing  around  the  Ijend  of  the  road  just  ahead,  and  the 
two  will  meet  in  .some  place  where  they  cannot  pa.ss. 
Hence  the  carters  keep  up  an  almost  continual  call. 
This  call  is  peculiar  to  the  carters  on  these  roads,  and 
"carries"  for  a  long  distance. 

We  often  wondered  what  would  happen  if  two  carts 
should  come  together  in  one  of  these  narrow  passes, 


212  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

for  it  is  almost  impossible  to  "back"  one  of  these 
heavy  Chinese  carts.  As  it  happened,  we  were  des- 
tined to  have  our  curiosity  on  this  point  satisfied.  We 
were  moving  slowly  along  an  uphill  stretch,  where 
the  road  was  very  narrow  and  about  forty  feet  deep, 
when  suddenly  a  cart  came  around  the  bend  just 
ahead.  The  two  carts  were  blocked,  there  being  no 
way  for  them  to  pass.  Our  carter,  a  veteran  mule 
driver,  jumped  down  from  his  seat,  and  began  belabor- 
ing the  other  carter  with  invectives.  He  said:  "Now 
you  can  find  a  way  out.  I  will  not  move  a  step."  The 
two  "discussed"  earnestly  for  several  minutes;  but 
our  man,  being  more  fluent  of  speech,  gained  the  vic- 
tory, and  the  newcomer  unhitched  his  forward  mule, 
leaving  the  other  on  the  shaft. 

We  wondered  what  was  to  be  done.  Surely  there 
was  no  way  to  back  that  cart  uphill,  and  equally  no 
way  to  turn  it  around.  Imagine  our  surprise  when  the 
man  hitched  the  forward  mule  to  the  back  of  the 
cart,  and  made  it  pull  the  cart  and  the  companion 
mule  backward  up  the  hill  for  some  distance,  to  a 
place  where  our  cart  could  pass. 

After  traveling  one  hundred  miles  along  such 
roads, —  this  being  a  three  days'  journey, —  we  came 
down  a  deep  and  very  long  gulch,  which  grew  deeper 
and  darker  as  we  descended,  and  led  us  finally  to  the 
gate  of  the  border  city  of  Shensi.  This  most  interest- 
ing town  sits  right  in  a  pass  leading  to  the  open  plains 
of  the  province.  The  mountains  high  on  the  south 
and  the  broad  yellow  river  on  the  north  give  the  city 
a  most  strategic  situation.  Many  times  since  the 
first  revolution  in  1911,  it  has  been  captured  and  re- 
captured by  organized  armies  and  organized  bandits. 


THE  MISSIONARY  AT  WORK  213 

We  stopped  here  for  a  rest  over  the  Sabbath.  Dur- 
ing our  st^,  we  heard  rumors  of  the  devastation  the 
bandits  were  making  in  the  north  of  the  province. 
However,  when  Sunday  morning  came,  we  were  ready 
bright  and  early  to  start  on  our  journey  in  this, 
another  province  entered  for  the  first  time  by  repre- 
sentatives of  the  Seventh-day  Adventist  Mission. 
After  three  more  days  of  travel,  we  arrived  in  Gospel 
Village,  and  were  warmly  received. 

A  VISIT  TO  SIANFU 
While  arranging  for  a  meeting  place,  Dr.  Selmon 
and  I,  with  Pastor  Liu,  took  a  trip  to  Sianfu,  which 
is  forty  miles  from  Gospel  Village.  Travelers  have 
no  view  of  the  city  until  they  come  out  on  the  high- 
land directly  in  front  of  it.  We  were  struck  with  awe 
as  we  suddenly  came  in  sight  of  this  stately  city,  which 
has  seen  the  reign  of  the  most  ancient  and  glorious 
dynasties  of  China, —  a  city  that  is  reputed  to  have 
had  a  high  type  of  civilization  in  the  time  of  Samuel. 
Not  only  the  thought  of  the  great  antiquity  which 
surrounds  the  place,  but  also  the  beautiful  symmetry 
of  the  city,  impresses  one.  The  massive  walls,  stretch- 
ing out  over  the  plain  for  four  miles,  the  high  gates, 
the  deep  moat,  together  with  the  green  tints  of  the 
growing  things  round  about,  and  the  high  mountains 
in  the  background,  make  a  scene  of  rare  beauty.  We 
came  upon  the  place  with  the  growing  dusk,  as  (juiet 
was  sinking  down  upon  the  city;  so  we  had  to  hasten, 
lest  we  arrive  too  late,  and  the  gates  be  shut. 

The  following  day,  we  took  a  view  of  the  city  from 
the  bell  tower,  which  is  in  its  exact  center.  This  an- 
cient tower,  in  which  is  a  bell  over  one  thousand  years 
old.  is  now  used  as  a  telephone  office  for  the  city.    The 


214  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

southern  half  of  the  city  is  entirely  Chinese,  the 
northern  half  being  divided  between  the  Mohammedan 
quarter  and  the  Tartar  city.  Within  the  walls  of  the 
Tartar  city  is  another  walled  space,  which  was  the 
royal  city  of  the  Tang  dynasty. 

In  this  Tartar  city  lived  about  50,000  Manchus ;  but 
now  the  city  lay  before  us  in  ruins.  During  the 
Chinese  revolution  of  1911,  practically  forty  thousand 
of  these  Manchus  were  massacred,  many  fled,  and  now 
the  few  remaining  are  housed  in  a  building  in  the 
center  of  the  Tartar  city. 

We  also  visited  the  Hall  of  Tablets,  where  we  saw 
the  famous  Nestorian  Tablet,  with  many  other  ancient 
slabs. 

FIRST  GENERAL  MEETING  IN  SHENSI 

After  remaining  in  Sianfu  for  two  days,  we  re- 
turned to  Gospel  Village  and  began  meetings.  We  held 
four  Bible  studies  a  day,  Dr.  Selmon  and  I  sharing  the 
time  equally.  What  an  opportunity  it  was !  Here  were 
more  than  forty  persons  who  had  been  Christians  for 
many  years,  earnestly  listening  to  the  truths  we  had 
to  teach.  Many  times  they  exclaimed  that  they  had 
never  before  heard  such  plain  and  convincing  teaching. 

Regular  meetings  continued  for  nine  days.  At  the 
end  of  that  time,  the  brigands,  who  had  gained  control 
of  North  Shensi,  were  nearing  the  southern  cities,  and 
planning  raids  upon  them.  For  this  reason,  it  seemed 
the  part  of  wisdom  to  leave,  and  we  quickly  made  the 
best  arrangements  we  could  under  the  circumstances. 

During  the  next  few  days,  we  learned  a  little  more 
deeply  the  meaning  of  Paul's  phrase,  "in  perils  often." 
The  story  of  our  return  journey,  with  its  escapes  and 
deliverances,  is  told  elsewhere  in  these  pages.     They 


«-. 


# 


(215) 


216  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

proved  anew  to  us  that  God  will  fulfill  His  promises  to 
His  servants,  and  though  trials  and  dangers  may  be 
encountered,  those  who  are  under  His  direction  will  be 
protected  by  Him  till  their  work  is  done. 

THE  STRATEGIC  POSITION  OF  SHENSI 

Shensi  is  the  strategic  center  from  which  to  open  up 
the  unentered  fields  to  the  west.  When  one  talks  of 
taking  the  truth  to  Chinese  Turkestan,  on  the  roof  of 
Asia,  that  seems  like  an  inaccessible  summit,  which 
we  may  never  reach.  But  with  the  opening  of  Shensi, 
one  has  taken  a  long  step  toward  this  far-off  land. 
There  is  constant  intercourse  with  these  provinces  to 
the  west.  Our  cart  driver  has  been  to  Lan-Chau,  the 
capital  of  Kansu,  many  times,  and  he  has  also  been  to 
Turkestan.  As  I  talked  with  him  regarding  the  place, 
and  he  told  me  the  distances,  it  seemed  to  me  that  all 
that  was  needed  would  be  plenty  of  patience  and  time, 
and  we  would  easily  get  there.  From  Sianfu  to  Lan- 
Chau  is  a  run  of  "eighteen  stages"  ("stage"  means  one 
day),  and  from  Lan-Chau  to  Turkestan  is  a  run  of 
"three  eighteen  stages";  or  in  all  from  Sianfu  to 
Turkestan,  it  would  take  seventy-two  days  by  cart. 
We  met  a  foreigner  who  had  been  all  through  this 
territory. 

But  if  we  have  not  the  men  to  send  to  this  distant 
place,  there  is  another  agency  that  will  take  the  truth 
—  an  agency  that  is  just  as  sure  and  much  quicker. 
This  is  the  printed  page.  When  Shensi  is  opened, 
erelong-  Kansu  will  have  believers;  and  then  comes 
Turkestan,  at  the  end  of  the  earth.  Here  we  shall  be 
able  to  clasp  hands  with  our  Indian  and  Russian 
brethren. 


Revolutionary  Experiences 

Mrs.  Myrtie  Cottrell 

We  are  told  that  a  painting  called  "Cloudland"  may 
be  seen  in  one  of  the  European  picture  galleries.    "It 
hangs  at  the  end  of  a  long  gallery,  and  at  first  sight 
it  looks  like  a  huge,  repulsive  daub  of  confused  color, 
without  form  or  comeliness.    As  you  walk  toward  it, 
however,  the  picture  begins  to  take  shape.     It  proves 
to  be  a  mass  of  exquisite  little  cherub  faces,  like  those 
at  the  head  of  the  canvas  in  Raphael's  'Madonna  di  San 
Sisto.'    If  you  come  close  to  the  picture,  you  see  only 
an  innumerable  company  of  little  angels  and  cherubim ! 
How  often  the  soul  that  is  frightened  by  trial  sees 
nothing  but  a  confused  and  repulsive  mass  of  broken 
expectations  and  crushed  hopes!     But  if  that  soul,  in- 
stead of  fleeing  away  into  unbelief  and  despair,  would 
only  draw  up  near  to  God,  it  would  soon  discover  that 
the  cloud  was  full  of  angels  of  mercy.     In  one  cherul) 
face  it  would  see,  'Whom  I  love,  I  chasten.'     Another 
angel  would  say,  'All  things  work  together  for  good  to 
them  that  love  God.'     In  still  another  sweet  face  the 
heavenly  words  are  coming  forth :  'Let  not  your  heart 
be  troubled:  .  .  .  believe  also  in  Me.     In  My  Father's 
house  are  many  mansions.  .  .  .  Where  I  am,  there  ye 
may  be  also.'  " 

Severe  physical  aflliction.  even  to  endangering  the 
life,  often  proves  in  the  end  to  have  been  a  wholesome 
process.  Paul's  thorn  in  the  flesh,  his  beatings,  scourg- 
ings,  and  imprisonments,  together  with  his  life  perils 
on  land  and  sea,  by  robbers  and  the  heathen,  although 
exceedingly  unpleasant  experiences,  seem  to  have 
played  a  necessary  part  in  the  great  missionary's  life. 

(217) 


218  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

"Fiery  trials  make  golden  Christians,"  says  Dr.  Cuy- 
ler;  and  ground  watered  by  martyrs'  blood  often  bears 
the  greatest  amount  of  fruit. 

In  China,  the  efforts  put  forth  by  Seventh-day  Ad- 
ventist  missionaries  have  not  been  free  from  serious 
trials,  many  times  threatening  their  lives.  But  the 
angel  of  His  presence  has  been  graciously  near  to  de- 
liver, while  the  truth  of  the  saying,  "The  hour  of  the 
Christian's  extremity  is  the  hour  of  Christ's  oppor- 
tunity," has  often  been  put  to  the  test  and  proved 
true.  To  His  glory,  by  answered  prayer  and  loving 
protection,  we  wish  to  recall  some  of  these  instances, 
which,  as  we  take  the  retrospective  glance,  have  come 
to  stand  out  as  high  lights  in  missionary  experience. 
In  order  to  assist  the  reader  to  obtain  an  intelligent 
idea  of  the  political  conditions  "behind  the  scenes"  in 
the  events  that  follow,  it  has  seemed  fitting  to  say  a 
few  words  about  the  causes  which  led  up  to  revolu- 
tionary troubles. 

HISTORICAL  SKETCH 
For  many  years  prior  to  1911,  there  had  been  more 
or  less  friction  between  the  Northern  and  the  South- 
ern provinces  of  China.  Kwangtung  Province,  whose 
capital  is  Canton,  ever  the  seat  of  hatred  for  the  North, 
had  been  forced  to  tolerate  foreigners  to  some  extent, 
and  Western  ideas  in  education  and  advancement  were 
slowly  permeating  the  minds  of  the  better  classes. 
Many  of  Canton's  progressive  business  men  were  seek- 
ing wealth  in  foreign  countries,  while  their  promising 
students  received  a  modern  education  in  American  or 
European  colleges.  It  is  small  wonder  that  all  these 
influences  combined  to  make  the  more  enlightened 
Southerne'r  antagonistic  to  the  staid  and  circumscribed 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES 


219 


Northern  government,  which  permitted  little  advance- 
ment in  social,  political,  or  commercial  circles. 

During  the  extended  regency  of  the  empress  dowa- 
ger Tsi  Hsi,  occasional  though  largely  futile  efforts 
were  made  by  some  of  the  Southern  party  to  bring 


A    MERCHANT    AND    HIS    FAMILY  — ONCE   CONSIDEKEI)   OF   THE 
LOWEST  CLASS,  NOW  THE  BACKBONE  OF  TlIK  KKIMIULIC 

about  reformation.  Even  the  emperor  Kuang  Hsu, 
contrary  to  the  empress  dowager's  wishes,  was  in- 
fluenced by  some  of  his  Southern  advisers  to  enter 
upon  a  course  of  such  radical  reform  that  the  last 
three  and  one  half  months  of  his  absolute  sovereignty 


220  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

are  known  in  history  as  the  "hundred  days  of  reform." 
For  some  of  these  bold  proclamations,  he  afterward 
paid  dearly,  when  the  "old  Buddha"  (as  Empress 
Dowager  Tsi  Hsi  is  often  called)  marshaled  the  forces 
of  conservatism,  and  effected  a  coup  d'etat,  forcing  him 
into  seclusion,  and  permitting  him  to  remain  emperor 
in  name  only. 

However,  it  is  interesting  to  note  that  this  spirit 
of  reform  could  not  long  be  suppressed.  Although  at 
heart  always  conservative  and  opposed  strictly  to 
amelioration,  yet  in  order  to  regain  the  good  will  of 
foreigners  following  the  Boxer  uprising  of  1900,  the 
empress  dowager  herself  afterward  actually  approved 
some  of  the  very  improvements  for  promulgation  of 
which  the  emperor  Kuang  Hsu  had  been  so  severely 
punished. 

As  years  passed,  the  gulf  between  the  conservative 
North  and  the  progressive  South  was  widening.  A 
revolutionary  party  had  developed  in  the  South,  which 
was  secretly  organizing  its  men  and  means,  ready  to 
strike  the  blow  for  republicanism  when  the  opportune 
time  should  arrive.  The  dark  night  of  despotism  was 
passing,  while  already  above  the  horizon  could  be  seen 
the  faint  gleams  of  democracy's  light  glimmering  over 
the  hills  of  the  Far  East. 

THE  OUTBREAK 
It  was  on  a  somber,  chilly  autumn  day  in  the  early 
part  of  October,  1911,  that  after  a  few  weeks'  rest 
and  recuperation  in  Shanghai,  Pastor  and  Mrs.  R.  F. 
Cottrell  arrived  in  Hankow,  Hupeh,  en  route  to  their 
home  in  Changsha,  Hunan.  The  Seventh-day  Advent- 
ist  resident  missionaries  then  in  Hankow  were  Dr. 
and  Mrs.  A.  G.  Larson,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Esta  Miller. 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES  221 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Miller  were  living  temporarily  in  a 
semi-Chinese  flat,  which  was  located  in  one  of  two  long 
rows  of  similar  buildings  facing  each  other,  with  a 
narrow  alley  between.  At  the  several  entrances  of 
this  alley  were  iron  gates,  ordinarily  closed  and  locked 
at  night,  but  open  during  the  day. 

In  the  afternoon,  as  some  of  us  were  returning  from 
shopping,  we  were  surprised  to  find  these  iron  gates 
closed;  but  we  could  see  through  the  grating  a  com- 
pany of  greatly  excited  Chinese,  and  several  municipal 
police,  in  the  alley  near  the  Miller  home.  We  asked, 
"What  is  the  trouble?"  and  were  told,  "They  are 
catching  a  thief  who  appeared  when  fire  broke  out  in 
one  of  the  tenements."  However,  it  was  soon  known 
that  the  house  where  the  fire  broke  out  had  been  u.sed 
for  some  time  as  a  manufactory  for  bombs  and  revo- 
lutionary flags  and  emblems,  and  that  the  fire  had  been 
cau.sed  by  the  igniting  of  some  explosives.  It  was  one 
of  these  revolutionists  whom  we  saw  being  arre.sted, 
and  who,  with  some  of  his  fellows,  was  executed  the 
same  night. 

Although  the  secret  plans  of  the  revolutionists 
hitherto  had  been  to  restrain  the  outbreak  until 
some  two  months  later,  upon  finding  that  their  plans 
were  detected,  they  decided  to  make  the  attack  at 
once.  Accordingly,  the  first  demonstration  of  the 
revolution  —  the  l)uriiing  of  the  puljlic  buildings  in 
Wuchang,  opposite  Hankow  —  began  about  10  o'clock 
of  the  night  following  this  incident.  As  we  left  Han- 
kow two  hours  before  the  outbreak,  we  knew  nothing 
of  what  was  happening  until  several  days  after  we 
reached  Changsha. 


222  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

It  was  with  great  anticipation  and  pleasure  that  we 
returned  to  Changsha,  as  we  had  heard  from  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  S.  C.  Harris,  during  our  absence,  that  the  new 
homes  for  workers  were  nearing  completion.  We  be- 
gan moving  into  and  settling  them  as  soon  as  we  re- 
turned, and  were  as  happy  as  only  those  know  how  to 
be  who,  after  having  lived  for  months  in  a  dark  Chinese 
house  in  a  Chinese  city,  suddenly  find  themselves  in  a 
comfortable  home  built  out  in  the  open. 

But  our  "nest  making"  was  soon  to  be  cut  short.  A 
few  days  after  our  arrival,  rumors  reached  us  of 
trouble  in  Hankow, —  rumors  that  were  confirmed  and 
enlarged  upon  as  the  days  passed.  Soon  we  learned 
that  a  revolution  was  really  taking  place,  and  that 
other  cities  were  turning  over  to  the  republican  party. 
THE  PEACEABLE  CAPTURE  OF  CHANGSHA 

We  knew  not  what  might  take  place  at  any  time  in 
Changsha,  but  the  report  was  that  the  city  was  soon  to 
join  Hankow  in  the  attempt  to  throw  off  the  Manchu 
yoke.  The  British  consul  residing  in  Changsha  sent 
a  notice  to  all  European  and  American  residents  of 
that  port,  stating  that  trouble  might  break  out  at  any 
time,  and  that  every  family  should  keep  some  one  on 
the  watch  by  night  and  day  for  certain  signals  which 
were  to  be  given  from  the  customs  flagpole.  In  the 
meantime,  most  of  the  women  and  children  left  the 
city,  and  repaired  to  the  island  upon  which  our  cot- 
tages, together  with  three  other  foreign  houses,  stood. 
In  anticipation  that  there  might  be  an  anti-foreign 
demonstration,  a  fortification  of  sandbags  was  thrown 
up  about  one  of  the  foreign  houses,  and  at  the  signal 
above  mentioned,  all  foreigners  were  to  leave  the  city, 
and  come  within  easy  access  of  this  improvised  fort. 


(223) 


224  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

The  expected  crisis  came  early  Sunday  morning,  Oc- 
tober 22.  Two  of  the  leading  military  officials,  and  a 
few  soldiers  who  tried  to  defend  them,  were  killed. 
Civil  rulers  either  fled  or  declared  for  the  revolution- 
ists. The  Manchu  families  in  the  city  were  in  great 
terror,  and  either  kept  themselves  in  hiding  or  escaped 
by  night.  For  a  few  days,  consular  orders  forbade 
foreigners'  entering  the  city,  and  the  one  hundred 
Europeans  and  Americans  of  Changsha  found  tem- 
porary homes  by  crowding  into  the  houses  on  the 
island,  or  securing  house  boats  lying  along  the  shore. 
Our  cottages  accommodated  twelve  persons  aside  from 
those  of  our  own  mission. 

In  the  meantime,  the  date  for  our  general  meeting 
arrived,  and,  despite  the  political  threatenings,  a 
goodly  number  of  believers  gathered  in  Changsha.  We 
were  able  to  gain  admittance  to  the  city  and  conduct 
the  meetings  most  of  the  time;  but,  owing  to  dif- 
ferences between  the  revolutionary  leaders,  a  fight 
broke  out,  and  all  foreigners  who  were  in  the  city 
again  hastened  out  pell-mell.  However,  the  provincial 
assembly  that  took  charge  of  affairs  when  the  city 
turned  over  to  the  new  administration,  soon  succeeded 
in  establishing  order.  During  this  disturbance,  the 
city  gates  were  again  closed,  and  we  were  unable  to 
enter  the  city ;  but  as  the  native  evangelists  at  our 
chapel  filled  in  the  breach,  the  meetings  were  not 
seriously  interrupted.  On  the  closing  day,  twelve  re- 
ceived baptism. 

Large  numbers  of  volunteer  soldiers  often  lined  the 
streets  on  their  way  to  Hankow.  It  came  to  be  quite 
common  for  Mr.  Cottrell  to  remark,   "Well,  to-day  I 


u 

c 
Z 

o 
.J 

O 


u 

Q 
•-) 
O 

u 

U 


(225) 


ir> 


226  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

saw  two  or  three  thousand  more  soldiers  going  on 
board  boat  for  Hankow." 

From  the  iirst  outbreak,  a  real  money  panic  began. 
Nearly  all  notes  issued  by  either  the  imperial  or  the 
provincial  government  were  regarded  as  worthless,  oY 
unusable.  Many  banks  failed,  and  all  others  suspended 
payment.  Practically  nothing  was  considered  good 
except  silver  or  copper  coins,  and  these  were  almost 
unobtainable.  Of  course,  this  situation  added  to  our 
perplexities. 

With  the  war  still  raging  in  Hankow,  and  the  unrest 
and  trouble  spreading  throughout  China,  the  consuls 
decided  to  ask  all  women  and  children  to  leave  the  in- 
terior, and  go  to  some  port  city,  where  they  could  be 
properly  protected.  No  one  knew  just  what  to  expect, 
as  robbers  and  pirates  invariably  take  advantage  of 
such  opportunities  for  deeds  of  violence. 

Brethren  Gibson  and  Harris  decided  to  accompany 
their  wives  to  Shanghai;  but  as  it  seemed  necessary 
for  Mr.  Cottrell  to  remain  by  the  work  in  Changsha, 
I  had  planned  to  stay  with  him.  However,  my  trunk 
was  packed,  so  that  in  case  of  sudden  trouble,  I  might 
leave  at  any  time. 

The  night  on  which  our  friends  were  to  leave  us  was 
a  sad  one.  We  accompanied  them  to  the  steamer, 
which  we  found  already  crowded.  Returning  home 
about  midnight,  we  decided  that  it  was  best  for  me  to 
go  with  the  others.  It  was  nearly  3  a.  m.  when,  my 
preparations  completed,  I  took  one  last  lingering  look 
at  the  new  homes  which  we  had  entered  with  such  joy 
only  one  month  before,  and  which  we  now  must  leave 
under  conditions  of  so  great  uncertainty.  But  of 
course  the  greatest  trial  was  for  me  to  leave  my  hus- 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES         227 

band  in  Changsha,  while  I  attempted  to  reach  a  place 
of  safety.  Nevertheless,  as  this  seemed  best,  with  an 
uttered  prayer,  the  good-bys  were  quickly  said,  and  I 
found  myself  alone  on  the  deck,  watching  with  tear- 
dimmed  eyes  what  otherwise  might  have  been  distinctly 
seen  in  the  beautiful  moonlight, —  his  little  rowboat 
fading  away  in  the  distance, —  and  then  he  was  gone. 

AMID  SHOT  AND  SHELL 

Our  trip  to  Hankow  was  made  on  schedule  time  by 
one  of  the  Japanese  steamers,  which  carried  a  few 
large  bullet  holes  made  by  some  soldiers  who  fired 
when  she  refused  to  halt  for  them  to  search  her  pas- 
sengers on  a  former  trip.  Although  the  steamship 
company  compelled  all  foreign  passengers  to  travel 
first-class,  we  were  obliged  to  put  up  with  soiled  linen 
on  our  beds,  and  the  tablecloth  and  the  napkins  bore 
manifest  proof  of  the  servants'  statement  that  they 
had  been  unable  to  have  any  laundry  work  done  since 
the  revolution  began. 

As  we  neared  Hankow,  all  eyes  were  turned  toward 
the  still  smoking  city.  Ever  and  anon  could  be  heard 
the  distinct  booming  of  cannon,  while  the  usually 
crowded  river  front  was  almost  destitute  of  boats,  and 
every  face  wore  the  troubled  and  anxious  look  that 
made  us  realize  we  were  in  the  real  war  center  of  the 
revolution. 

During  the  war  thus  far,  no  large  merchant  vessels 
had  ventured  uj)  the  river  as  far  as  Hankow,  passen- 
gers for  Shanghai  being  conveyed  by  launches  a  few 
miles  down  the  Yangtze  Kiang  to  connect  with  regular 
river  boats.  Hence  we  expected  that  we  should  not 
have  to  remain  within  the  danger  line  more  than  a  few 


228  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

hours  at  most.  But  what  was  our  surprise  to  find  that 
in  order  to  remove  to  a  place  of  safety  a  large  cargo 
of  tea,  the  steamer  that  was  to  convey  us  to  Shanghai 
had  ventured  up  into  the  harbor.  With  cross-river 
bombardment  above  and  below  us,  we  went  aboard  this 
steamer,  were  shown  to  our  staterooms,  and  waited 
the  time  of  departure,  which  we  were  told  would  be 
that  afternoon.  But  not  having  made  up  the  cargo  by 
the  specified  time,  we  remained  in  port  overnight  and 
until  afternoon  of  the  following  day,  making  in  all 
thirty-six  hours  amid  shot  and  shell.  • 

On  the  afternoon  of  our  arrival  in  Hankow,  we  went 
on  shore  to  notify  the  American  consul  general,  Mr. 
Greene,  of  the  whereabouts  of  our  Changsha  workers. 
In  our  walk  along  the  bund  (or  street  on  the  water 
front),  in  many  places  we  saw  holes  that  had  been 
scooped  out  of  the  brick  walls  by  flying  shells;  and  on 
one  street  corner,  a  crowd  had  gathered  about  a 
Chinese  who  had  just  been  killed  by  a  stray  bullet,  only 
a  few  rods  from  where  we  were  walking.  We  also 
called  at  the  post  office  to  try  to  recover  some  of  the 
missing  letters  that  had  been  accumulating  during 
the  uprising  in  Hankow. 

Some  missionary  acquaintances  from  Changsha  were 
■  invited  out  to  dinner  by  Hankow  friends,  and  returned 
to  the  boat  quite  excited,  late  in  the  evening,  saying 
that  as  they  stood  talking  on  their  friends'  piazza,  a 
bullet  whizzed  between  them.  However,  it  was  most 
remarkable  that  not  a  foreigner  was  killed  during  the 
whole  siege  in  Hankow. 

As  the  sun  lowered  in  the  west,  cannonading  began 
in  earnest.  We  sat  out  on  the  deck  of  the  steamer,  and 
watched   such   animated   and  nerve-racking  fireworks 


\ 


;^ 

o: 
o 

•J 
a 
u 

H 


2; 

< 

o 

< 

< 
X 

a 

X 


(229) 


230  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

as  I  trust  I  shall  never  again  be  compelled  to  behold. 
As  the  shadows  deepened,  more  and  more  often  we 
would  see  the  distant  flash,  then  hear  the  report;  and 
a  swish  in  the  water  near  us  would  tell  of  a  falling 
shell.  Sometimes  a  whizzing  through  the  air  just 
over  our  heads  sent  us  all  running  into  the  saloon, 
which  in  reality  afforded  no  protection. 

After  an  evening  of  this  experience,  we  realized 
more  than  ever  that  our  only  safety  lay  in  the  hands 
of  Him  whose  business  had  led  us  to  this  far  country 
amid  such  dangers;  and  with  His  promise  of  "Lo,  I 
am  with  you  alway,"  and  the  sweet  assurances  of 
the  ninety-first  psalm,  we  lay  down  to  rest.  Again  the 
truth  of  the  saying  that  "God's  promises,  like  the 
stars,  shine  brightest  in  the  darkest  night,"  was  forci- 
bly brought  to  mind,  and  we  were  glad  to  cast  our  help- 
less selves  upon  them. 

OTHER  EXPERIENCES 

During  the  day  upon  which  we  were  to  leave  Han- 
kow, there  was  considerable  cannonading  back  and 
forth  across  the  river  below  us,  and  we  began  to  won- 
der how  our  boat  was  going  to  be  able  to  pass  safely 
through  the  cross  fire.  But  here  again  God  protected 
us;  and  as  the  soldiers  stopped  firing  to  sup  their  after- 
noon tea, —  for  such  was  said  to  be  their  custom, — 
our  boat  passed  safely  between  the  fortifications.  With 
hearts  full  of  thanksgiving  that  we  were  at  last  beyond 
the  danger  line,  we  again  began  to  breathe  normally. 

Sharing  my  stateroom  on  this  trip,  was  a  noted  Red 
Cross  nurse,  who  had  worked  almost  unceasingly 
night  and  day  since  the  war  began,  and  was  now  on 
her  way  to  take  a  short  rest.     She  told  of  several 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES  231 

extraordinary  experiences  and  narrow  escapes  from 
death  in  her  work  among  the  wounded.  Another 
passenger,  a  former  Manchu  official,  was  traveling  in- 
cognito from  far  Szechuan,  having  saved  his  life  by 
purporting  to  be  a  special  letter  carrier  for  foreigners, 
on  an  important  mission  to  Shanghai. 

The  remainder  of  our  journey  to  Shanghai  was 
quite  uneventful,  except  that  at  the  different  ports 
along  the  Yangtze  Kiang,  we  saw  many  warships  of 
various  nations. 

As  we  reached  Shanghai,  a  warm  welcome  was  given 
us  by  our  friends,  who  told  us  that,  with  the  exception 
of  F.  A.  AUum  and  Mr.  Cottrell,  all  the  missionaries 
from  the  interior  had  previously  arrived.  Brother 
Allum  followed  in  a  few  weeks,  and  Mr.  Cottrell 
reached  Shanghai  shortly  before  Chri.stmas.  One  large 
rented  tenement  afforded  homes  for  five  families,  while 
others  found  vacant  rooms  elsewhere;  and,  by  renting 
some  of  the  bare  necessities  in  furniture,  we  were  soon 
able  to  care  for  ourselves  comfortably,  making  the 
most  of  the  privileges  afforded  us  of  together  studying 
the  language  and  seeking  God. 

Our  workers  from  Cheo  Chia  K'o,  Honan,  came  to 
Shanghai  by  way  of  Peking,  thus  traveling  largely 
outside  the  war  area.  Of  their  experiences  en  route, 
Mrs.  0.  A.  Hall  writes: 

"Aside  from  the  trainload  after  trainload  of  soldiers, 
horses,  and  cannons  that  we  saw,  there  was  but  little 
by  which  one  would  know  that  the  country  was  in  a 
state  of  revolution.  ...  It  truly  seemed  a  remarkable 
thing  that  a  country  which  had  been  for  so  many  years 
an  empire,  should  so  quietly  and  deliberately  throw 
off  its  yoke,  and  establish  its  new  form  of  government." 


232  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

Our  workers  in  Nanking  were  not  so  fortunate,  as 
will  be  seen  from  the  following  experience,  written  by 
Mrs.  Frederick  Lee: 

"As  soon  as  we  learned  that  fighting  had  begun  in 
Nanking,  Mr.  Lee  and  I  went  to  the  American  con- 
sulate for  further  information.  The  consul  informed 
us  that  all  American  women  and  children  must  leave 
at  once  for  Shanghai.  He  urged  that  the  men  follow 
as  soon  as  possible. 

"We  immediately  hurried  home  to  assist  in  moving 
Dr.  Kay,  who  was  very  ill  at  the  time.  Inside  of  two 
hours,  all  had  reached  the  consulate,  and  were  ready 
to  start  for  the  train.  The  consul  headed  our  proces- 
sion, which  was  escorted  by  sixty  American  marines. 
When  we  reached  the  city  gates,  permission  to  pass 
through  was  refused  us,  as  a  ruling  had  been  made 
that  no  one  was  to  pass  out  or  in.  An  immense  crowd 
of  anxious  Chinese  were  standing  there  night  and  day, 
vainly  hoping  to  get  outside  the  city.  However,  by 
some  persuasion  on  the  part  of  the  consul,  we  were 
permitted  to  leave.  With  great  difficulty,  the  waiting 
mob  was  held  back  until  the  foreigners  passed  out. 
Then  the  gates  closed  again. 

"All  along  the  way  to  Shanghai  we  passed  com- 
panies of  rebel  soldiers  marching  on  to  Nanking. 

"Mr.  Lee  remained  behind  to  find  a  safer  place  to 
store  our  goods,  hoping  to  follow  me  soon.  During  the 
days  he  remained  in  the  city,  fighting  was  going  on 
outside,  while  looting  and  killing  went  on  inside  at 
an  alarming  rate.  The  city  gates  were  still  closed; 
and  with  Mr.  Lee,  the  question  was.  How  can  I  get 
out?  The  consul  told  him  that  if  he  would  be  at  a 
certain  small  gate  at  a  certain  time  of  day,  he  might 


0^ 


u 

< 

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O 


(233) 


234  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

get  out  with  some  American  soldiers  who  were  daily 
carrying  mail.  He  lost  no  time  in  following  the  con- 
sul's suggestion,  and  we  were  soon  together  again  in 
Shanghai,  where  we  spent  the  next  three  months. 

"Shortly  after  our  return  to  Nanking,  some  soldiers 
who  had  not  received  their  pay  began  looting.  Other 
soldiers  soon  fired  upon  these,  and  the  result  was  a  real 
battle.  About  twenty  soldiers  were  killed.  Mr.  Lee 
and  I  chanced  to  be  outside  the  city  at  that  time,  and 
had  to  pass  the  battle  fields  in  order  to  reach  home.  It 
was  a  sickening  sight  to  see  the  dead  and  bleeding 
lying  in  the  streets.  The  following  Sabbath,  our  eyes 
beheld  a  still  more  horrifying  sight  —  a  basketful  of 
the  heads  of  the  looters.  The  next  week,  this  was 
quite  common.  Heads  were  displayed  here  and  there, 
as  upward  of  one  thousand  had  been  killed  for  loot- 
ing. The  reason  for  displaying  these  heads  was  to 
warn  the  beholders  that  persons  committing  like  crimes 
would  be  punished  in  like  manner." 

All  through  the  revolution,  God's  care  was  manifest 
in  a  special  way  for  His  own  —  not  only  for  the 
foreigners,  but  also  for  the  Chinese  brethren  and 
sisters.  When  the  revolt  was  at  its  height,  our 
principal  mission  station  in  Honan  being  in  need  of 
silver,  it  was  necessary  for  some  one  to  carry  them 
money.  Evangelist  Liu  Djen  Bang  volunteered  to  make 
the  hazardous  journey  of  more  than  seven  hundred 
miles  overland  from  Shanghai  to  Cheo  Chia  K'o,  walk- 
ing much  of  the  way.  "God  will  protect,"  he  said;  and 
He  did  protect  His  faithful  servant. 

For  holding  the  silver  dollars  that  he  was  to  carry, 
some  of  our  foreign  sisters  in  Shanghai  made  little 
cloth  sacks,  or  pouches,  which  were  sewed  to  a  girdle 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES  235 

and  worn  around  his  waist.  All  went  well  until  he 
reached  Cheng  Yuan  Gwan,  where,  without  any  reason 
known  to  him,  he  felt  impressed  to  stop  for  two  or 
three  days.  When  he  resumed  his  journey,  he  found 
that  during  the  time  he  had  been  stopping,  the  soldiers 
had  been  busy  ridding  the  road  over  which  he  must 
pass  of  highway  robbers.  Although  previously  travel- 
ers—  even  school  children  —  had  been  robbed  of 
everything  they  possessed,  including  the  clothing  they 
wore,  all  that  now  remained  to  testify  of  the  fearful 
deeds  were  the  dead  bodies  of  the  robbers  scattered 
along  the  road.  Brother  Liu,  with  several  hundred 
dollars  on  his  person,  went  safely  on  his  way,  and 
completed  the  trip,  thereby  bringing  the  much-needed 
funds  to  support  the  native  workers  while  the  foreign 
brethren  were  forced  to  gather  in  Shanghai. 

So  many  of  our  missionaries  being  gathered  in 
Shanghai,  a  call  was  made  for  a  general  meeting  of  the 
China  Union  Mission,  to  be  held  January  24  to  Febru- 
ary 10,  1912.  All  the  foreign  workers  in  that  field 
were  present,  together  with  representatives  from  Ko- 
rea, Japan,  the  Straits  Settlements,  and  the  Philip- 
pines. During  this  meeting,  the  Spirit  of  the  Lord 
was  manifest  in  a  marked  degree;  and  at  its  close, 
conditions  throughout  the  country  had  improved  to 
such  an  extent  that  nearly  all  our  workers  could 
safely  return  to  their  respective  stations. 

SIX  HOURS  OF  PRAYER  BRINGS  DELIVERANCE  IN 
SOUTH  CHINA 
Some  of  our  workers  in  South  China  also  had  thrill- 
ing experiences.    We  .shall  let  Chinese  Pastor  Ang  tell 
the  story,  as  translated  from  his  own  words: 


(236) 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES         237 

"Before  the  republican  form  of  government  could 
fully  take  charge  of  the  dissenters,  and  restore  order 
in  the  Southern  provinces,  there  vi^ere  factions  quarrel- 
ing for  control  of  different  sections  of  the  country,  to 
further  their  own  interests.  Two  generals  of  the  peo- 
ple's army  in  Chao  Chow  Fu  were  clamoring  for  the 
honors  in  that  part  of  Kwangtung  Province;  and  al- 
though the  provincial  authorities  asked  them  to  come 
to  a  settlement,  the  passing  of  each  day  only  added  fuel 
to  the  fire. 

"So  the  provincial  government  decided  to  send  Lim 
Kit  Tsin  from  Wai  Chow  with  his  Hakka  troops,  to 
settle  matters.  On  arriving  at  Swatow,  he  was  soon 
made  to  understand  that  he  was  regarded  as  an  in- 
truder. To  oppose  their  new  enemy,  the  quarreling 
factions  temporarily  forgot  their  differences,  while 
Lim,  seeing  that  trouble  was  ahead,  sent  his  soldiers 
to  camp  across  the  bay  from  Swatow,  at  a  place  called 
Chao  Yang.  At  an  une.xpected  time,  he  came  upon  the 
Swatowese,  and  took  possession  of  the  newly  built  part 
of  Swatow. 

"Being  very  short  of  ammunition,  the  self-styled 
defenders  of  Swatow  sent  some  men  to  Chao  Chow 
Fu,  where  it  could  be  procured;  but  these  men,  on  their 
return,  found  that  Lim  had  soldiers  waiting  to  take 
possession  of  their  source  of  strength.  From  that  time 
on,  wherever  members  of  the  opposing  parties  met,  a 
fight  ensued,  which  resulted  in  the  death  of  one  or  the 
other.  The  two  armies  soon  met  in  open  battle  near 
the  place  where  our  chapel  was  then  located. 

"At  this  time,  my  family  and  I  lived  over  the  chapel; 
but  I  was  absent,  having  been  called  to  attend  a  general 
meeting  in  Amoy.     As  I  was  leaving  my  home,  the 


238  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

children  asked  what  they  should  do  in  case  of  trouble. 
I  replied,  'If  they  begin  to  fight,  you  go  downstairs 
and  lie  down  on  the  tile  floor.'  [In  Swatow,  the  houses 
are  made  of  soft  concrete,  the  walls  are  about  a  foot 
in  thickness,  and  the  ground  story  has  very  few 
windows.] 

"In  the  course  of  a  few  days,  seeing  that  nothing 
had  occurred,  my  wife  and  third  daughter  went  out 
to  see  how  other  members  of  the  mission  were  faring. 
But  while  she  was  away,  the  battle  took  place  on  the 
street  in  front  of  the  chapel.  The  five  girls,  obedient 
to  my  advice,  went  downstairs,  lay  down  close  together 
on  the  tile  floor,  and  prayed.  When  a  bullet  struck 
the  house,  they  were  terror-stricken  for  a  moment; 
then  they  would  calm  themselves,  and  pray  again. 
This  situation  continued  from  three  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  until  nine  o'clock  at  night.  During  this 
time,  several  tens  of  soldiers  were  killed,  and  the  house 
was  covered  with  bullet  holes,  many  of  which  may  still 
be  seen. 

"Our  chapel  has  been  moved  to  another  location,  and 
the  girls  are  much  older;  but  the  experience  of  that 
afternoon  is  still  fresh  in  their  memory.  They  be- 
lieve and  know  that  the  words  of  the  psalmist  are  true, 
'The  angel  of  the  Lord  encampeth  round  about  them 
that  fear  Him,  and  delivereth  them.'  " 

A  CHINESE  CELEBRATION  OF  AMERICAN  RECOGNITION 
The  revolution  over,  and  republicanism  becoming 
more  and  more  an  established  fact  as  the  days  passed 
by,  it  is  not  strange  that  congratulations  in  the  form 
of  recognition  from  other  nations  should  be  proudly 
and  gratefully  received  by  the  young  Chinese  re- 
public. 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES 


239 


"As  Lhasa  to  Tibet,  so  Hunan  to  China,"  is  an  apt 
simile  portraying  the  feeling  of  Hunan  toward  the 
foreigner  through  a  long  course  of  years.  Intelligent, 
but  haughty  and  conservative,  her  doors,  until  tvi^elve 
years  ago  so  successfully  closed  to  all  foreign  nations, 
now  vie  with  those  of  the  other  foremost  of  China's 
provinces  in  opening  to  welcome  all  who  come  to  pro- 
mote and  conserve  her  well-being.    Especially  was  this 


A   PKUMINENT  CHINESE  OII'ICIAL  OK  SOOCllOW   ABOUT  TO 
BOARIt  THE  TRAIN   FOR  SHANGHAI 

manifest  toward  Americans  in  1913,  in  the  festivities 
following  American  recognition  of  the  Chinese  re- 
public. 

The  first  of  the  .series  of  receptions  accorded  Ameri- 
cans in  Changsha  by  the  Chinese,  was  announced  soon 
after  the  recognition  was  known  in  Hunan;  but  as  it 
was  given  on  Sabbath,  we  were  not  privileged  to  at- 
tend. On  Friday  of  the  week  following,  the  Ameri- 
cans  responded   to  the  cordiality   of  the   Chine.se  by 


240  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

giving  a  "recognition  tea"  to  about  seventy  invited 
guests,  among  v^^hom  were  included  all  the  chief  men 
in  governmental  and  political  circles. 

This  fete  was  held  in  one  of  the  fine,  large  private 
residences  owned  by  a  wealthy  Chinese,  with  which 
Changsha  abounds.  Walking  along  the  narrow,  con- 
gested Chinese  street,  with  nothing  in  view  but  shops 
and  high  cement  w^alls  on  either  side,  a  stranger  would 
hardly  be  prepared  for  the  surprise  which  would  greet 
his  eyes  if  he  turned  to  enter,  through  the  ordinary 
looking  gatev^ay  off  the  street,  the  Chua  Gardens. 
Having  passed  the  gate,  we  were  conducted  down 
beautiful  walks,  through  a  seeming  lavish  waste  of 
land  devoted  to  the  courts  and  fine  gardens  surround- 
ing the  owner's  home.  These  had  been  decorated  for 
the  occasion  with  American  and  Chinese  flags,  bunting, 
etc.;  while  at  one  end,  in  an  honored  niche,  reposed 
large  portraits  of  Presidents  Wilson  and  Yuan  Shi  Kai 
amid  their  respective  flags. 

Professor  Brownell  Gage,  dean  of  Yale  College  in 
China,  who  was  master  of  American  ceremonies  for 
the  day,  occupied  a  seat  at  the  left  and  head  of  the 
room,  while  at  his  right  sat  Tan  Tatu,  governor  of 
Hunan  Province.  At  the  left  of  each  of  these  gen- 
tlemen was  arranged  a  long  row  of  chairs,  in  which 
were  seated  other  noted  men,  including  the  ex-civil 
commissioner  (who  has  also  been  the  governor's 
teacher),  the  provincial  treasurer,  the  new  civil  com- 
missioner, the  president  of  the  provincial  assembly, 
the  heads  of  the  two  political  parties,  and  the  head  of 
foreign  affairs. 

The  Americans  felt  the  presence  of  the  governor  in 
person  to  be  a  special  honor,  as  he  usually  .sends  his 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES         241 

representative  to  attend  such  functions  in  his  place. 
It  was  all  the  more  unusual  on  account  of  the  unsettled 
condition  of  the  country  at  that  time,  when  it  was 
feared  that  civil  war  between  the  North  and  the  South 
might  break  out  at  any  time.  We  could  not  help  noting 
the  change  that  had  come  to  China  along  with  her 
transition  from  empire  to  republic.  Formerly,  when 
the  governor  left  his  palace,  it  was  with  great  pomp 
and  splendor;  but  this  man  was  carried  in  a  common 
sedan  chair,  and,  but  for  his  bodyguard  of  thirty  sol- 
diers with  fixed  bayonets,  one  would  not  have  been  able 
to  distinguish  his  from  the  hundreds  of  other  ordinary 
chairs  "carried  through  the  streets. 

When  all  the  guests  had  arrived,  the  ten  American 
ladies  in  attendance  were  asked  to  march  between  the 
two  rows  of  distinguished  guests,  where  each  one  was 
separately  presented  to  the  governor,  Mrs.  C.  P.  Lillie 
and  the  writer  being  introduced  as  representatives  of 
the  Seventh-day  Adventist  Mission  in  Hunan.  As 
each  one  was  presented,  instead  of  shaking  hands  as 
in  America,  we  simply  made  a  formal  bow,  which  the 
governor  returned.  Mr.  Tan  and  many  of  the  other 
Chinese  present  were  dressed  in  European  clothes. 

While  the  American  ladies  present  were  serving 
sandwiches,  tea,  and  cake  to  the  guests,  the  governor's 
private  military  band  of  skilled  Chinese  was  enliven- 
ing the  occasion  by  playing  American  patriotic  selec- 
tions in  a  near-by  court.  When  I  tell  you  that  we  had 
heard  these  martial  airs  of  our  homeland  played  only 
two  or  three  times  during  our  residence  in  the  interior, 
you  will  the  better  understand  how  much  they  were  ap- 
preciated Vjy  some  of  us. 


Kl 


242  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

After  the  refreshments,  Professor  Gage  called  on 
several  Chinese  and  Americans  for  short  speeches. 
Governor  Tan  spoke  very  appreciatively  not  only  of 
America's  recognition,  but  also  of  her  friendly  atti- 
tude toward  China.  He  referred  to  China's  feeling 
toward  America,  under  the  figure  of  a  child-student  re- 
public, desirous  of  sitting  at  the  feet  of  the  world's 
greatest  republican  teacher,  to  be  taught  wisdom  by 
her.  He  extended  a  most  hearty  welcome  to  all  Ameri- 
cans living  in  Hunan, 

Dr.  C.  N.  Dubbs,  as  the  senior  American  resident  of 
the  city,  responded  to  the  governor's  address.  He  men- 
tioned some  of  the  unpleasantness  that  occurred  when 
he  first  arrived  in  Hunan,  because  he,  not  understand- 
ing them,  nor  they  him,  had  not  seen  things  as  they 
were.  But  he  rejoiced  that  the  Hunanese  now  under- 
stood that  missionaries  had  come  among  them,  and 
established  schools,  hospitals,  and  chapels,  not  to  act 
as  "spies  for  their  government,  to  obtain  China's 
goodly  land,"  or  to  "store  up  merit"  for  themselves, 
but  to  help  relieve  suffering,  make  better  citizens  of 
the  sons  and  daughters  intrusted  to  their  schools,  and 
point  the  people  to  the  true  God,  who  holds  in  His 
hands  the  rise  and  fall  of  nations. 

After  several  other  short  remarks  by  prominent 
Chinese,  interspersed  with  such  songs  as  "The  Battle 
Hymn  of  the  Republic"  and  "Marching  Through 
Georgia,"  sung  by  an  American,  Mr.  Gage  made  the 
concluding  speech.  He  assured  the  governor  that  we 
as  Americans  were  glad  to  recognize  China,  not  as  a 
child  republic,  but  as  a  sister,  full-grown  republic. 
He  spoke  of  some  of  the  mistakes  made  by  our  nation 
in  its  early  history,  mentioning  Patrick  Henry's  fears, 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES         243 

and  how  Thomas  Jefferson  at  first  prophesied  that  it 
would  be  utterly  unsafe  to  vest  in  the  hands  of  one 
man  as  much  power  as  the  president  was  to  receive. 
Incidentally  he  noted  the  fact  that  when  Mr.  Jefferson 
became  president  afterward,  he  was  the  first  one  to 
exceed  his  authority  in  making  the  Louisiana  Pur- 
chase. 

Mr.  Gage  sincerely  hoped  that  China  would  take 
courage  just  now,  when  the  launching  of  the  "ship  of 
state"  seemed  so  difficult,  remembering  and  profiting 
by  the  mistakes  of  others.  He  was  highly  applauded 
when  he  emphasized  the  principle  that  "union  is  neces- 
sary to  liberty." 

"Such,"  he  continued,  "is  the  lesson  I  believe 
America  has  learned  in  the  hard  school  of  experience. 
Our  separate  communities  have  been  welded  together 
in  the  burning  forge  of  suffering.  It  is  the  prayer  of 
America,  as  she  welcomes  you  to  the  family  of  self- 
governing  nations,  that  you  may  be  spared  her  mis- 
takes, her  losses,  and  her  suffering." 

He  closed  by  saying  that  he  was  sure  he  stated  the 
desire  of  not  only  all  the  Americans  present,  but  also 
the  American  natirtn,  that  "you  and  we,  the  great  re- 
I)ublic  of  the  East  and  the  great  republic  of  the  West, 
may  join  hands  and  work  together,  so  that,  as  Lincoln 
.said,  'Government  of  the  people,  by  the  people,  and  for 
the  people,  shall  not  perish  from  the  earth.'  " 

SHENSI   EXPERIENCES  IN   THE  ANTI-MONARCMY 
REVOLUTION  OF   191  G 
But  even  in  the  rapidly  moving  twentieth  century, 
a  republic  cannot  be  born  in  a  day,  with  no  further  an- 
noyances  threatening.      Kver   and   anon    the   Chinese 


244  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

monarchial  dragon  lifted  his  sleepy  head,  and  troubles 
broke  out  in  various  places.  Dr.  Bertha  Selmon  de- 
scribes the  harrowing  experiences  of  her  husband  when 
he  was  caught  in  the  throes  of  one  of  these  minor 
revolutions : 

"The  province  of  Shensi  is  situated  to  the  west  of 
the  famous  Tungkwan  Pass.  The  name  Shensi  means 
'West  of  the  Passes,'  and  the  province  is  called  the 
'cradle  of  the  Chinese  race.'  Tungkwan  is  a  high- 
walled  city,  with  only  two  gates.  One  opens  upon  the 
highway  eastward  to  the  railway;  but  between  these 
two  points  lies  three  days  of  dusty  travel  in  the  lowest 
canon  road.  The  west  gate  of  Tungkwan  opens  out 
on  the  pass  itself,  toward  the  plain  of  North  Shensi 
and  the  ancient  capital  of  China,  Sianfu,  the  present 
capital  of  the  province.  Sianfu,  the  city  of  ancient 
stone  records,  with  its  Nestorian  Tablet,  has  a  history 
all  its  own. 

"But  it  is  about  Tungkwan  that  our  story  lies. 
Tungkwan,  with  its  high  wall,  and  its  mountains  on 
the  north  and  south,  has  been  the  scene  of  many  battles. 
Sometime  in  1915,  a  printed  page  had  found  its  way 
through  the  ancient  pass,  and  told  the  story  of  the 
coming  King.  On  April  21,  1916,  four  dusty  travelers 
followed  the  path  of  the  printed  messenger  through  the 
east  gate  into  the  city.  They  spent  the  Sabbath  there, 
then  passed  on  to  Gospel  Village,  where  the  seeds  of 
truth  had  borne  their  fruit.  Pleasant  days  were  spent 
in  giving  the  bread  of  life  to  those  who  already  had 
learned  to  'search  the  Scriptures,'  and  were  hungry  for 
the  help  these  messengers  could  give.  Pastor  Frederick 
Lee,  Dr.  A.  C.  Selmon,  and  Pastor  Liu  Djen  Bang  were 
the  messengers. 


PASTOR  mi;  ojen  bang 


(245) 


246  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

"As  the  happy  days  passed  quickly,  they  gave  little 
thought  to  the  gathering  cloud  of  trouble  caused  by 
the  movement  on  foot  to  change  the  new  republic  back 
into  a  monarchy.  This  was  the  signal  for  independent 
movements  in  individual  provinces;  and  Shensi,  de- 
termined always  to  have  a  part  in  Chinese  affairs,  had 
declared  against  the  monarchy.  Sad  to  say,  her  own 
government,  not  too  strong,  had  allied  itself  with  the 
men  of  the  mountains  —  powerful  bandit  leaders  —  and 
their  robber  hordes. 

"On  May  12,  Pastor  Liu  entered  the  west  gate  of 
Tungkwan  on  foot,  hastened  to  the  telegraph  office,  and 
wrote  two  messages  to  the  wives  of  the  two  foreign 
pastors,  saying  that  the  men  were  in  the  hands  of 
bandits,  and  asking  that  the  United  States  consulate 
be  informed  at  once.  He  had  one  difficulty :  the  man  in 
the  office  wanted  pay,  as  usual,  in  advance ;  but  Pastor 
Liu  did  not  have  a  cent  of  money. 

"Finally,  however,  he  succeeded  in  persuading  the 
agent  that  the  lives  of  foreigners  were  at  stake,  and 
that  the  money  would  come  later. 

"Just  then,  a  cart  rumbled  along  the  street,  and 
Pastor  Liu  looked  out  to  see  his  companions  driving 
down  the  narrow  street.  Less  than  five  minutes  after- 
ward, the  man  in  the  telegraph  office  had  fled,  Tung- 
kwan was  in  the  hands  of  the  bandits,  and  in  fifteen 
minutes,  all  the  wires  were  cut.  If  that  message  had 
gone,  anxious  days  would  have  passed  before  another 
message  could  have  been  sent. 

"Twelve  miles  west  of  Tungkwan,  our  party  had  met 
a  band  of  twenty-five  mounted  bandits,  who  searched 
the  carts  for  ammunition,  thinking  the  brethren  might 
have  some  connection  with  the  government  soldiers. 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES         247 

They  found  no  arms,  still  they  insisted  that  Pastor 
Lee's  cook  was  a  soldier  in  disguise.  One  of  the  men 
cocked  his  rifle  to  shoot  the  lad;  but  one  of  the  pastors 
pushed  it  aside,  and  pleaded  his  case  so  urgently  that 
the  bandits  finally  allowed  the  party  to  pass  on." 

Three  miles  farther  on,  our  workers  met  a  second 
band  of  robbers.  We  will  let  Dr.  A.  C.  Selmon  tell  the 
rest  of  the  story: 

"This  band  was  made  up  of  a  tougher  lot  of  fellows 
than  the  first  ones  we  met.  They  stopped  the  cart, 
and  one  of  them  leveled  his  rifle  on  Brother  Lee  and 
me,  and  made  us  get  down  out  of  the  cart  and  stand  to 
one  side.  He  vowed  he  would  put  a  hole  through  both 
of  us  if  we  stirred.  Then  he  and  another  robber 
searched  each  of  us,  and  took  our  watches.  One  man 
climbed  into  the  cart,  and  began  emptying  out  our 
goods,  and  taking  everything  he  desired.  All  this  time, 
Brother  Lee  and  I  were  standing  in  the  road,  while  the 
man  who  was  covering  us  with  his  rifle  reviled  us  with 
everything  he  could  think  of.  Every  now  and  then  he 
would  bring  his  rifle  up  to  shoot.  He  was  a  red-faced, 
rough  looking  specimen,  with  a  turban  around  his 
head,  and  two  strings  of  cartridges  across  his  shoul- 
ders. He  acted  like  a  drunken  man.  One  of  the  ban- 
dits, upon  asking  me  if  we  had  any  silver,  and  not 
getting  my  rei)ly  as  (juickly  as  he  desired,  jumi)ed  down 
from  the  cart,  and  struck  me  a  couple  of  blows  with  a 
large  club. 

"F'inally  a  squad  of  armed  bandits  came  up  and 
joined  the  ones  who  were  robbing  us.  They  consulted 
as  to  whether  to  shoot  us  or  not,  but  finally  decided  to 
make  us  go  back  to  the  west  for  a  mile  or  two,  and  turn 
us  over  to  the  robber  chief,  who  was  coming  along. 


248  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

One  of  their  number  was  put  in  charge  of  us.  We  did 
not  walk  fast  enough  to  suit  him,  and  he  told  us  to 
move  faster.  Thus  we  marched  along  through  the 
street  of  that  market  place  in  frOnt  of  the  fellow.  The 
inhabitants  were  all  lined  up  on  either  side,  taking  in 
the  show.  It  was  just  about  noon,  and  fearfully  hot 
and  dusty. 

"After  going  about  a  mile,  we  came  up  to  where  the 
robber  chief  and  his  bodyguard  were  holding  a  council 
of  war.  We  addressed  him  in  the  most  polite  Chinese 
we  could  command,  and  he  told  us  to  climb  into  his 
cart.  I  climbed  up  by  his  side,  and  Brother  Lee  got  up 
on  the  cart  of  his  aide.  The  chief  was  a  tough  speci- 
men, blind  in  one  eye,  and  with  two  big  army  pistols 
stuck  in  his  belt,  and  surrounded  by  as  typical  a  set 
of  'rough  necks'  as  the  'Wild  West'  ever  produced. 
He  said  he  would  protect  us ;  but  we  were  not  sure  just 
what  he  meant  to  protect  us  from.  I  entered  into 
conversation  with  him;  and  as  soon  as  he  found  out 
that  we  were  from  the  section  where  the  trouble 
started,  and  knew  the  circumstances  and  leaders  in 
the  movement,  he  began  to  talk  quite  freely. 

"I  asked  him  what  object  they  had  in  robbing  and 
wanting  to  shoot  missionaries  passing  through  that 
section.  He  said  his  men  were  a  hard  lot  to  handle, 
and  they  did  not  recognize  us.  He  was  sorry  we  had 
been  handled  so  roughly.  He  said  they  were  fighting 
against  the  regular  army,  and  they  thought  we  were 
connected  with  the  army  in  some  way. 

"Needless  to  say,  I  did  not  argue  with  him  as  to 
what  they  thought  or  what  I  thought,  but  tried  in 
every  way  possible  to  ingratiate  us  with  him.  Finally 
I  asked  if  he  would  be  willing  to  return  our  watches. 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES 


249 


He  said  he  would  see  to  it.  All  this  time,  we  were 
going  toward  the  place  where  we  had  left  our  cart. 
When  we  came  to  it,  we  found  that  everything  had 
been  ransacked. 

"The  old  chief  called  to  the  man  who  had  our 
watches,  and  ordered  him  to  return  them.  The  fellow 
swore  he  did  not  have  them,  and  said  he  was  sorry  now 
he  had  not  shot  us.  The  chief  had  his  hand  on  one  of 
his  pistols,  however;  so  the  fellow  turned  over  our'' 
watches  and  part  of  our  money  —  all  but  $20.  Things 
looked  as  if  there  were 
going  to  be  more 
trouble  over  this  mat- 
ter, and  we  began  to 
wish  that  we  had  not 
mentioned  it.  But  the 
chief  gave  me  his 
name  card,  and  told 
us  that  if  we  hurried, 
we  could  get  into 
Tungkwan  before  he 
attacked  the  place. 

"There  is  only  one 
road  in  all  that  sec- 
tion,—  the  east  and 
west  road,  which  goes 
through  the  mountain 
pass  at  Tungkwan. 
And  when  I  tell  you 
that  this  road  is  over 
two  thousand  years 
old,  and  that  it  is 
worn  down  so  that  the  i/rxutKu  (  iiiki's  namk  card 


260  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

bottom  is  just  wide  enough  for  one  cart,  and  the  sides 
are  like  walls,  almost  perpendicular,  rising  in  places 
to  a  height  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  you  can  see 
that  a  man  in  a  cart  cannot  have  much  choice  as  to  the 
road  he  takes. 

"Naturally  enough,  we  proceeded  with  all  haste  to 
Tungkwan.  The  gates  were  closed  and  locked ;  but  by 
pushing  my  card  through  a  crevice,  and  telling  the 
soldiers  who  we  were,  we  persuaded  them  to  let  us 
through.  We  knew  that  the  place  would  soon  be  at- 
tacked by  the  robbers ;  and  since  there  were  only  about 
two  hundred  regular  soldiers  there,  we  felt  sure  they 
would  retreat  without  making  much  of  a  fight.  We 
wanted  to  push  on  to  the  east  at  once,  and  cross 
through  the  mountain  pass  and  get  into  Honan. 

"But  the  road  to  the  west  of  Tungkwan  is  over  a  foot 
wider  than  to  the  east,  consequently  at  this  place  it 
was  necessary  to  change  the  axle  on  our  cart  before  we 
could  proceed.  So  we  drove  up  to  an  inn,  and  dumped 
off  our  stuff.  There  was  a  panic  in  the  place,  for  the 
people  knew  they  vv^ould  soon  be  at  the  mercy  of  the 
robbers.  Everything  was  shut,  and  we  had  difficulty  in 
finding  a  carpenter  to  change  our  axle.  While  we  were 
at  work  changing  it,  we  heard  firing  at  the  west  gate, 
and  knew  that  the  robbers  were  attacking  it.  As  soon 
as  the  firing  began,  people  took  to  their  heels,  and  so 
there  was  nothing  for  us  to  do  but  to  wait  in  the 
inn,  and  trust  the  Lord  to  deliver  us  again. 

"I  should  mention  that  as  soon  as  we  entered  Tung- 
kwan, and  reported  to  the  soldiers  that  we  had  met  the 
robbers,  the  defenders  of  the  city  gathered  up  bag  and 
baggage  and  made  a  bee  line  for  the  east  gate,  leaving 
the  city  entirely  without  protection.    In  fifteen  minutes 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES 


251 


after  the  soldiers  had  marched  out  of  the  east  gate, 
the  robbers  were  firing  on  the  west  gate.  Evidently 
they  had  accomplices  in  the  city,  for  it  was  only  a 
matter  of  a  few  minutes  until  we  saw  them  running  in 
through  the  gate.  Some  were  afoot,  and  stripped  to 
the  waist,  with  long  cartridge  belts  around  their 
necks;  but  most  of  them  were  mounted.  All  wore 
white  turbans;  and  in  addition  to  rifles,  some  carried 
knives.  They  fired  promiscuously,  and  shot  many 
people,  and  in  a  very  short  time  had  full  possession  of 
the  city.  They  set  a  guard  at  the  east  gate,  and  any 
one  trying  to  get  out  was  relieved  of  everything  he 
had  except  the  clothes  on  his  back. 


ftf^'^ 


S0^  m.  .ll^^^i'*ty*-iJ^ 


0  4^ 


,^     MOUNTAIN*  *«i. 


E 


ULTI.INK  MAI-  (»K  TINGKWAN   AND  ITS  ENVIRON.S 


252  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

'*We  saw  that  there  was  no  hope  of  our  running  the 
gauntlet  of  the  band  of  plunderers  who  were  stationed 
at  the  east  gate;  and  as  there  was  no  other  way  to 
get  out,  we  simply  waited.  It  was  dusk  by  this  time, 
and  every  one  was  keyed  up  to  a  high  pitch  of  anxiety, 
because  they  were  absolutely  certain  that  looting  would 
soon  begin. 

"We  were  in  a  big  inn,  with  thirty  or  forty  rooms, 
and  fine  furnishings  for  a  Chinese  inn ;  but  there  was 
not  a  soul  in  it  save  Brother  Lee,  Pastor  Liu,  our  cook, 
and  me  —  all  those  in  charge  had  fled.  There  could  be 
no  doubt  that  the  robbers  would  begin  looting  as  soon 
as  they  had  eaten ;  so  we  began  to  plan  on  what  to  do, 
for  we  knew  that  when  looting  began,  the  robber  chief 
would  be  as  powerless  to  control  his  men  as  he  would 
be  to  govern  the  wind. 

"Feeling  sure  that  the  guard  stationed  on  the  city 
wall  would  come  down  to  share  in  the  plunder,  we  de- 
cided that  as  soon  as  we  heard  firing,  which  would 
necessarily  accompany  the  looting,  we  would  jump 
down  from  the  back  wall  of  the  inn,  and  make  a  run  on 
the  city  wall.  We  had  already  picked  out  some  of  the 
things  that  would  be  most  needed  in  our  wanderings 
through  the  mountains,  and  each  man  had  made  up  a 
small  bundle,  which  he  could  carry  on  his  back.  We 
had  also  found  a  long  rope  in  the  inn;  and  this  we 
planned  to  fasten  at  the  top  of  the  wall,  and  slide  down 
on  the  outside,  a  distance  of  over  fifty  feet. 

"While  we  waited,  expecting  at  any  minute  to  hear 
shooting,  suddenly  there  came  a  crash  of  thunder,  and 
it  began  to  rain  very  hard,  and  it  rained  from  about 
half  past  ten  that  night  until  daylight  next  morning. 
The  day  of  miracles  is  not  past.     We  know  the  Lord 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES         253 

sent  that  rain  to  prevent  the  looters  from  breaking 
loose.  The  streets  of  the  mountain  pass  were  also 
flooded  by  the  storm. 

"Early  next  morning,  we  began  looking  for  the  rob- 
ber chief,  to  see  if  he  could  devise  some  way  by  which 
we  would  get  out  of  the  city ;  and  about  eleven  o'clock, 
we  succeeded  in  finding  him.  He  said  he  would  send 
one  of  his  secretaries  with  us,  also  one  of  his  'trusties,' 
and  he  thought  he  could  get  us  through  the  east  gate. 
Hurriedly  we  got  our  stuff  together;  but  before  we 
had  it  out  of  the  inn,  a  force  of  over  a  thousand  of  the 
mounted  bandits  entered  the  city,  and  took  possession 
of  all  inns  and  important  business  places.  Almost  be- 
fore we  were  aware  of  it,  there  were  a  dozen  horses 
and  mules,  and  as  many  men,  in  the  rooms  that  we 
were  occupying.  The  men  at  once  began  helping  them- 
selves to  our  stuff.  But  just  then  a  man  came  from  the 
chief,  and  told  them  the  chief  had  pledged  himself  to 
protect  us;  so  they  put  most  of  it  back. 

"When  we  reached  the  east  gate,  the  looters  were 
there  in  full  force,  stripping  every  one  clean.  Those 
who  tried  to  get  through  with  a  cart  managed  to  get 
the  empty  cart  through  by  pulling  it  themselves.  They 
had  to  leave  their  horses,  mules,  and  baggage  with  the 
looters.  As  soon  as  we  came  up  to  the  gate,  they  or- 
dered us  to  get  down  out  of  the  cart,  and  leave  all  our 
goods  with  them.  The  chief's  secretary  expostulated, 
but  they  paid  no  attention  whatever  to  him,  and  began 
to  get  ugly  because  we  did  not  instantly  comply  with 
their  demand.  Just  then  one  of  the  s(|uad  of  looters 
asked,  'Aren't  you  the  people  we  cleaned  out  yesterday 
back  there  on  the  road?'  We  assured  him  that  we  were 
the  identical  ones.     Then  he  spoke  to  the  crowd,  and 


254  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

said,  'We  cleaned  them  up  yesterday;  let  them  go.' 
At  this,  the  crowd  stepped  back,  and  we  drove  out. 
We  did  not  take  the  trouble  to  tell  that  looter  that 
after  they  cleaned  us  out,  we  got  part  of  our  stuff 
back. 

"We  got  out  of  the  city  and  across  the  pass,  and  saw 
no  more  of  the  robbers;  but  all  along  the  road,  we 
came  up  with  people  who  had  been  robbed  of  every- 
thing they  possessed,  down  to  the  few  hundred  cash 
they  were  carrying  for  road  expenses.  And  to  the 
east  of  Tungkwan  the  officials,  at  a  distance  of  as  much 
as  sixty  and  eighty  English  miles,  were  sending  their 
families  and  their  valuables  on  farther  east,  for  fear 
the  robber  band  would  push  on  east  into  Honan." 

Such  was  the  story  as  it  came  to  the  ears  of  the 
waiting  ones  at  home. 

Mrs.  Selmon  adds: 

"Glad?  Yes,  we  are  glad  that  our  times  are  in  His 
hands,  and  that  until  our  work  is  finished,  we  may 
trust  our  all  in  the  care  of  Him  who  cares  for  us,  and 
for  all  His  messengers." 

ITINERATING  EXPERIENCES 

Revolutions  are  not  the  only  trials  in  which  the  mis- 
sionaries are  made  to  feel  the  need  of  God's  special 
protecting  care.  Mr.  Cottrell  thus  describes  some  of 
the  difficulties  encountered  in  an  ordinary  itinerary 
among  the  outstations  of  Central  China: 

"On  a  rainy  day  in  October,  1912,  Brother  Hwang 
and  I  started  from  Changsha,  Hunan,  to  visit  the  com- 
pany at  Liu  Yang,  a  city  of  some  forty  thousand  in- 
habitants, in  the  mountain  region  to  the  eastward  two 
days'  journey  by  sedan  chair.    On  the  first  day  of  the 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES  255 

trip,  mud  and  rain  caused  slow  progress,  and  at  last 
we  found  lodging  for  the  night  in  a  little  village  inn. 

"The  second  day's  journey  was  uneventful  until  late 
in  the  afternoon.  Then,  while  we  were  crossing  a 
mountain  range,  the  coolie  who  was  carrying  my  fold- 
ing cot,  bedding,  and  food  box  lingered  behind,  and 
without  being  noticed,  took  a  side  path  and  ran  away 
with  my  belongings.  Long  we  waited  for  him  to 
catch  up  with  us,  the  chair  bearers  meanwhile  assur- 
ing me  that  theft  among  the  registered  and  bonded 
coolies  of  the  transportation  company  was  practically 
unheard  of.  Nevertheless,  we  saw  no  more  of  him, 
and  finally  continued  our  journey  to  Liu  Yang,  reach- 
ing our  little  chapel  in  the  city  at  a  late  hour  in  the 
evening.  The  theft  was  reported  to  the  city  authori- 
ties, and  searching  parties  were  at  once  organized; 
but  though  they  spent  several  days  searching  for  the 
ra.scal,  their  efforts  were  fruitless. 

"During  the  week  that  followed,  I  ate  Chinese  food 
in  Chinese  style,  and  slept  on  native  beds  having  only 
native  bedding.  I  also  discovered  how  much  trouble 
we  foreigners  usually  are  to  ourselves;  for  the  only 
article  of  clothing  necessary  to  remove  on  retiring  at 
night  was  my  hat,  and  sometimes  my  shoes.  Only 
once  in  this  time  did  I  remove  my  clothing,  and  that 
was  in  preparation  for  the  baptismal  service,  when  I 
borrowed  a  complete  outfit  of  native  wearing  apparel 
for  the  occasion. 

"But  the  Lord  gave  us  a  precious  time  with  the 
company  at  Liu  Yang.  A  three  days'  meeting  was  held, 
mcst  of  tho.se  in  attendance  being  from  the  surround- 
ing country  and  villages.  So  hungry  were  they  for 
the  bread  of  life,  that  we  greatly  enjoyed  the  privilege 


256 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


of  breaking  it  to  them.  On  Sabbath  afternoon,  fol- 
lowing baptism,  a  church  of  fourteen  members  was  or- 
ganized, and  the  ordinances  were  celebrated. 

"Returning  to  Changsha  by  sedan  chair,  we  remained 
but  two  nights,  when,  with  Evangelist  Hwang,  Evangel- 
ist and  Mrs.  Djang,  and  two  colporteurs,  I  started  on 
a  trip  to  the  westward,  this  time  traveling  on  a  crowded 
steam  launch  for  eighteen  hours.  Our  first  objective 
was  lyang,  where  we  held  meetings  for  a  number  of 
days,  solemnized  baptism,  and  organized  a  church  of 
over  twenty  members.  From  this  place,  we  journeyed 
by  small  native  boat,  and  planned  on  reaching  the  Tung 
Ting  Lake  to  cross  to  the  northern  side  by  steamer. 
But  we  found  that  some  days  previously,  disbanded 
soldiers,  after  raising  a  disturbance  in  the  town,  had 
commandeered  the  steamer,  and  no  one  knew  when  to 
expect  its  return. 


IMPROVING  THE  TIME  IN   SIMPLE  STYLE 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES         257 

"Next  morning,  'when  the  south  wind  blew  softly,' 
we  hired  a  small  sailboat,  and  proceeded  on  our  jour- 
ney, making  fair  progress  throughout  the  day  and  the 
night.  By  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  reached 
the  northern  shore,  and  were  entering  the  mouth  of  a 
large  stream,  when  suddenly  a  furious  gale  struck  us. 
The  sailors  threw  out  the  anchor,  and  tried  with  might 
and  main  to  hold  the  boat  near  land ;  but  all  to  no  avail. 
Despite  their  efforts,  we  were  being  blown  out  into 
the  lake.  The  heathen  captain  cried  out,  Tray,  pastor! 
Pray  to  your  God,  else  we  shall  all  perish!'  No  one 
aboard  who  knew  how  to  pray  needed  such  a  request, 
for  all  were  .sending  up  silent  petitions. 

"Backward  to  the  southeast  shores  we  were  blown 
at  a  tremendous  speed,  and  after  about  an  hour  and 
a  half,  found  shelter  in  a  little  inlet  only  a  few  miles 
from  the  place  we  had  left  the  morning  before.  As 
soon  as  all  danger  was  past,  our  hearts  turned  to  God 
in  thanksgiving,  and  our  little  company  knelt  together 
on  the  boat,  praising  our  heavenly  Father  for  deliver- 
ance. Mrs.  Djang  said,  'I  felt,  all  the  time,  that  we 
would  be  spared,  for  I  could  not  believe  that  God  would 
let  a  pastor  drown.' 

"As  the  time  for  the  China  Union  Mi-ssion  Com- 
mittee meeting  was  drawing  near,  it  was  necessary  for 
me  to  let  the  native  workers  go  on  to  Ilwa  Yung  when 
the  wind  should  Ije  more  favorable,  with  the  promise  to 
the  company  there  that  I  would  visit  them  at  my  first 
opportunity.  So,  taking  native  boat  for  the  east  end  of 
the  lake,  I  boarded  a  steamer  for  Hankow,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  Shanghai  without   further  special  incident. 

"Several  weeks  later,  following  my  return  to  Chang- 
sha,  the  Liu  Yang  magistrate  returned  to  me  some  of 

17 


258'  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

my  goods  that  had  been  found,  together  with  thirty 
strings  of  cash  (about  ten  dollars  in  United  States 
currency).  In  an  accompanying  letter,  he  expressed 
his  regret  for  the  unfortunate  incident,  and  the  hope 
that  the  partial  restitution  might  be  acceptable." 

SAVED  FROM  A  MOB 

The  circumstances  under  which  an  outstation  had 
been  established  at  Hwa  Yung  (referred  to  above  by 
Pastor  Cottrell)  are  in  themselves  interesting  evidences 
of  an  all-seeing  and  protecting  Guide. 

For  many  years,  the  Catholic  Mission  had  been  the 
only  Christian  representative  the  district  about  Hwa 
Yung  knew.  Twice  Protestant  missions  had  endeav- 
ored to  establish  an  outstation;  but  in  each  case,  they 
had  been  driven  out  by  the  Catholic  adherents,  who 
contended  that  priority  in  occupation  gave  them  un- 
disputed and  exclusive  rights  to  the  place. 

However,  the  printed  page  of  truth  had  reached 
some  honest-hearted  persons;  and  as  these  studied, 
their  zeal  led  them  to  provide  a  chapel,  and  invite  us 
to  send  an  evangelist. 

In  June,  1912,  Mr.  Cottrell  and  I  made  our  first  visit 
to  Hwa  Yung,  and  were  entertained  in  the  chapel  com- 
pound. As  I  was  the  first  white  woman  who  had  ever 
visited  their  town,  the  people  flocked  in  from  miles 
about, —  the  young,  the  old,  the  lame,  the  nearly  blind, 
the  sick,  and  the  strong, —  all  wanting  to  see  the  "for- 
eign woman."  Many  cherished  the  hope  that  we 
could  cure  their  diseases. 

We  spent  two  very  busy  days,  teaching  the  people, 
visiting  at  their  homes,  and  doing  what  we  could  to 
relieve  their  sufferings.     On  Sunday  morning,  the  last 


BKOTHtU  ANU  SKSTKU  DJOU   WKN    HSUIN 

(269) 


260  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

day  of  our  stay,  Mr.  Cottrell  was  just  opening  the 
eleven  o'clock  service,  when  a  man  came  running  in, 
shouting:  "The  Catholics  are  coming!  The  Catholics 
are  coming!"  The  large  chapel  doors  were  quickly 
closed  and  barricaded,  while  at  the  same  time  Mr. 
Cottrell  gave  his  card  to  one  of  our  Chinese  believers, 
who  escaped,  unknown  to  the  Catholics,  through  the 
back  door,  and  ran  directly  to  the  Chinese  magistrate 
with  a  request  for  one  hundred  soldiers  to  come  at  once 
and  protect  the  chapel. 

The  hooting,  yelling  mob  outside  were  trying  to  gain 
entrance,  and  at  last  succeeded  in  pushing  open  the 
front  doors.  Then  our  friends  caught  up  chairs, 
benches,  and  pieces  of  lumber,  with  which  to  defend 
themselves.  Mr.  Cottrell  went  to  the  doors,  and  urged 
the  people  not  to  use  violence;  but  one  tall  young 
man,  who  had  previously  been  in  the  magistrate's  em- 
ploy, turned  and  said :  "Pastor,  do  you  suppose  we  are 
going  to  let  those  fellows  in  to  destroy  this  place  and 
kill  us  all?    Never!    We  will  fight  first." 

So  our  friends  stood  their  ground  at  the  door.  Later, 
when  it  seemed  the  surging  mob  outside  would  cer- 
tainly break  in,  we  asked  Evangelist  Hwang  if  he 
would  dare  attempt  to  address  and  reason  with  the 
crowd.  He  at  once  responded,  and  thus  a  few  more 
minutes  of  time  were  gained.  Then  a  few  of  the 
Catholics  broke  through  past  the  guard  at  the  doors, 
and  began  breaking  up  lamps,  benches,  etc.  A  realiza- 
tion of  the  danger  by  which  we  were  surrounded  drove 
us  to  God;  and  while  Mr.  Cottrell  stood  on  guard,  I 
was  in  a  back  room  pleading  for  God's  protection. 

Soon  the  mob  was  completely  surprised  to  see  a  com- 
pany of  soldiers  come  running  down  the  narrow  street. 


REVOLUTIONARY  EXPERIENCES         261 

and  almost  immediately  it  dispersed.  Perhaps  the 
reader  can  imagine  our  relief  as  the  soldiers  marched 
abreast  into  the  chapel,  where  they  lined  up  in  four 
rows,  while  the  captain  saluted  Mr.  Cottrell,  saying, 
"Pastor,  your  danger  is  over;  I  have  come  to  pro- 
tect you." 

We  saw  no  more  of  the  Catholics ;  but  they  were  so 
infuriated  to  think  the  soldiers  would  protect  a  Prot- 
estant chapel,  that  as  soon  as  they  were  driven  away, 
they  hastened  to  the  soldiers'  barracks.  Here  they 
found  the  tables  set  for  the  noonday  meal;  and  going 
in,  they  overturned  tables  and  smashed  up  things 
generally. 

When  the  soldiers  heard  of  this,  they  were  so  angry 
that  they  said,  "Come,  let's  go  and  destroy  the  Catho- 
lic Mission  compound,  and  kill  the  priest."  They  fully 
intended  to  carry  out  their  threat,  but  were  prevented 
by  the  importunity  of  the  district  magistrate,  who 
went  in  person  to  prevent  violence.  The  priest  was  so 
thoroughly  frightened  that  he  sent  a  fast  runner  to 
the  nearest  telegraph  office,  and  wired  the  French 
consul  in  Hankow  that  there  was  an  insurrection  of 
the  people  against  him,  that  his  life  was  in  danger, 
and  a.sked  for  help. 

However,  the  courage  and  firmness  of  the  magis- 
trate prevented  further  trouble.  No  one  was  seriously 
hurt;  but  the  Catholics  were  forced  by  the  magistrate 
to  pay  dearly  for  the  things  they  had  destroyed,  both 
in  our  chapel  and  in  the  soldiers'  barracks.  The  strife 
was  over,  and  our  mission  has  never  since  been  mo- 
le.sted.  Out  of  that  persecution,  many  friends  were 
born,  and  a  good  harvest  of  believers  has  been  the 
result. 


262  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

"The  pull  at  the  oar  of  duty  is  often  a  long  and 
tedious  one.  The  flesh  grows  weary  and  the  spirit 
faints  when  the  waves  smite  the  bow  and  hinder  our 
headway.  Impatient  and  discouraged,  we  sometimes 
threaten  to  throw  down  the  oars  and  'let  her  drift.' 
But  the  voice  of  the  divine  Helmsman  utters  the  kind 
but  strong  rebuke,  '0  ye  of  little  faith,  wherefore  do 
ye  doubt?'  And  before  we  are  aware,  the  bow  strikes 
the  strand,  and  we  are  at  the  very  land  whither  the 
blessed  Pilot  was  guiding  us." 

DOES  IT  PAY? 
Friends,  does  it  pay  to  launch  and  support  the  mis- 
sionary enterprise?  Does  it  pay  to  pull  hard  at  the 
oar  when  the  waves  of  strife  and  trial  hinder  our 
progress?  Ask  the  native  Christian  who  formerly 
bowed  down  to  wood  and  stone.  Ask  the  pioneer  mis- 
sionary who  has  passed  through  many  hardships  for 
the  cross  of  Christ.  Ask  the  fathers  and  mothers  who 
have  given  their  sons  and  daughters  to  the  Lord  for 
work  in  foreign  lands.  Ask  the  great  Prince  of  mis- 
sionaries, who  left  His  home  in  glory  to  yield  His  life 
upon  the  cross.  And  from  one  and  all  will  come  the 
chorus,  "We  have  seen  the  travail  of  our  souls,  and  are 
well  satisfied." 


Beginnings  at  Amoy 

Mrs.  W.  C.  Hankins 

In  the  little,  humble,  mud-daubed  cottage,  there  is 
joy  and  rejoicing;  for  at  last  a  baby  boy  has  come  to 
take  up  his  abode  with  his  happy  Chinese  parents. 

They  have  but  recently  begun  to  lose  faith  in  the 
gods  of  their  forefathers,  to  whom  they  had  knelt 
reverently  in  prayer  so  many  times  in  days  gone  by. 
Had  they  not  a  glass  case  set  up  in  their  central 
guest  room,  in  which  they  kept  their  household 
gods?  and  had  they  not,  every  morning  and  evening, 
set  before  these  revered  relics  the  burning  incense 
sticks,  with  the  smoke  of  which  they  were  wont  to  send 
up  their  fervent  petitions  to  the  father  of  heaven  for 
protection  from  evil  influences,  wicked  spirits,  and  in- 
jury from,  their  enemies,  as  well  as  for  help  to  obtain 
a  better  livelihood? 

And  the  poor  little  heathen  mother  —  how  earnestly 
she  had  pleaded  with  the  goddess  of  heaven  to  grant 
her  eager  petitions  for  a  son !  Day  after  day  the  in- 
cense had  burned  before  the  placid  faces  of  the  earthen 
images  of  the  father  and  mother  of  heaven,  but  no  son 
had  come  to  rejoice  the  hearts  of  the  young  parents. 
True,  they  had  two  little  girls;  but  the  minister  before 
the  heathen  gods  had  confidently  averred  that  unless 
one  of  these  little  girl  babes  was  given  over  to  their 
idol  worship,  the  gods  wf  uld  never  grant  their  peti- 
tions. So  the  older  of  the  little  girls  was  taken  away 
from  the  sorrowing  mother,  and  only  little  Chrysanthe- 
mum was  left  to  toddle  about  in  her  lonely  play. 

But  now  a  ray  of  light  has  begun  to  shine  into  the 
little  home.    Word  has  come  to  them  of  a  new  God,  one 

(263) 


264  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

of  whom  they  had  never  heard  before,  one  who  so  loved 
this  world  that  He  gave  His  only-begotten  Son  to  come 
and  live  in  it  as  a  man,  and  teach  the  way  of  life  to 
the  poor  people  of  the  earth. 

What  a  marvelous  story! 

Then,  too,  this  God  was  not  pleased  to  h^ve  the  earth 
people  bow  down  and  pray  to  gods  of  wood  and  stone; 
for  they  were  not  true,  but  only  false  gods. 

What  strange  thing  was  this? 

Surely  it  were  better  to  study  more  about  this  God 
in  the  heavens,  who  was  even  said  to  have  made  the 
sun  and  the  moon  and  the  stars,  the  earth  and  the  sea 
and  the  sky,  and  all  that  is  in  the  earth,  and  the 
people  also. 

The  Chinese  father  and  mother  talk  it  over  and 
reason  about  it  from  all  sides.  If  God  made  us,  then 
we  are  His  children,  and  we  should  obey  and  worship 
Him,  they  say.  So  after  hearing  and  studying  more  in 
the  wonderful  Book  this  new  God  has  given,  they  de- 
cide to  put  away  the  images  of  wood  and  stone,  be- 
fore which  they  have  been  bowing,  and  turn  to  the  God 
who  has  so  much  power.  And  now  little  Chrysanthe- 
mum will  not  be  lonely  any  longer;  for  Gift  Come  will 
soon  be  old  enough  to  tumble  about  on  the  old  earthen 
floor  as  happily  as  she  herself. 

With  what  love  was  the  Gift  from  heaven  care- 
fully trained  in  the  new-found  teachings  of  the  all- 
powerful  God  and  His  dear  Son !  As  Chrysanthemum 
and  Gift  sat  on  their  little  stools,  with  their  bowls  of 
rice  and  chopsticks  placed  before  them  on  the  little 
square  table,  they  were  taught  to  bow  their  heads 
reverently  and  thank  God  for  the  good  food  He  had 
given  to  them. 


(265) 


266  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

This  ceremony  became  an  important  part  of  the 
meal;  and  unless  the  little  heads  were  first  bowed  in 
prayer,  and  the  blessing  of  God  was  asked  upon  the 
food,  the  little  ones  would  not  eat.  At  night,  the 
prayers  were  offered  like  incense  before  the  throne,  ere 
the  little  ones  were  put  to  their  rest.  Thus  the  father 
and  the  mother  strove  carefully  to  train  the  Gift  and 
Chrysanthemum. 

Very  soon  the  faithfulness  of  these  newly  made 
Christian  parents  was  rewarded. 

One  evening,  four  years  after  the  birth  of  the  little 
son,  he  was  missed  from  his  accustomed  place.  Then 
the  parents  began  searching  through  the  neighborhood, 
but  no  trace  of  the  little  boy  could  they  find.  In  vain 
Chrysanthemum  called  her  little  brother,  for  he  was 
nowhere  near. 

What  should  the  poor  parents  do?  Was  it  possible 
that  their  God  would  desert  them  now,  after  He  had 
been  so  kind  to  them  all  these  years?  —  for  another 
son  had  come  to  gladden  their  hearts,  and  they  felt 
that  they  had  indeed  received  the  grace  of  God. 

Neighbors  and  friends  joined  in  the  search,  for  all 
knew  and  loved  the  bright  little  fellow,  who,  with  his 
sweet  baby  ways,  had  endeared  himself  to  many  heaj-ts. 

So  the  news  of  the  loss  of  Gift  went  out  all  over  the 
country.  The  father  went  to  the  foreign  teachers  to 
ask  for  their  aid,  still  no  trace  of  the  child  was  found. 

In  the  meantime,  the  sorrowing  parents  pleaded  with 
their  God  for  help;  and  He  who  never  slumbers  nor 
sleeps,  revi^arded  His  servants  according  to  their  faith 
and  obedience.  As  the  father  journeyed  from  town  to 
town  and  from  village  to  village  in  his  search  for  their 


BEGINNINGS  AT  AMOY  "  267 

treasure,  a  man  met  him  who  began  plying  him  with 
questions.     He  said: 

"Are  you  a  believer  in  this  Jesus  religion?" 

When  he  was  answered  in  the  affirmative,  he  con- 
tinued, "Do  you  and  your  children  kneel  down  and  shut 
your  eyes  when  you  talk  to  your  God?" 

Again  the  father  answered,  "Yes." 

The  questions  were  continued:  "Do  you  all  shut 
your  eyes  and  talk  to  your  God  before  you  eat  your 
rice?" 

When  he  received  an  affirmative  reply,  the  man 
eagerly  informed  the  wondering  and  sorrowing  father 
that  he  had  seen  a  little  boy  of  that  description  who 
was  very  quick  and  bright,  and  who  always  bent  his 
head  down,  shut  his  eyes,  and  talked  to  a  Jesus  God 
before  he  would  eat  his  rice,  no  matter  how  hungry  he 
might  be,  and  this  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  those  with 
whom  he  lived  tried  to  persuade  him  not  to  do  so.  He 
added  that  the  child's  habit  was  the  marvel  of  all  the 
heathen  people  around. 

With  this  meager  information,  the  father  made  an 
immediate  investigation ;  and  soon  the  little  Gift  was 
returned  to  the  overjoyed  parents.  How  great  was 
their  happiness  can  be  imagined! 

But  now  the  message  of  the  third  angel  is  gradually 
nearing  the  home  of  little  Gift  and  Chrysanthemum. 
When  it  comes,  the  interest  of  the  parents  is  quickly 
aroused,  and  after  thorough  consideration,  thoy  gladly 
receive  it. 

Then  how  to  tell  the  good  news  to  friends  and 
neighbors  become.s  an  absorbing  thought  in  the  heart 
of  the  father.  After  much  prayer  and  some  discussion 
with  the  little  mother,  he  decides  to  give  the  best  years 


268  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

of  his  life  to  the  work  of  helping  to  teach  this  wonder- 
ful message  to  his  own  people. 

Little  ones  have  been  added  to  the  home,  and  now 
there  has  come  the  imperative  need  that  Gift  and  the 
younger  children  receive  a  good  education,  so  that  they 
too  may  help  to  carry  this  great  truth  to  those  in 
darkness. 

After  consultation  with  the  foreign  pastors  and  the 
Chinese  evangelist,  a  small  school  was  opened  in  the 
city  of  Amoy.  This  was  for  the  education  of  the  girls, 
and  was  in  charge  of  Mrs.  B.  L.  Anderson;  while  one 
for  the  education  of  the  boys,  in  charge  of  Pastor  B.  L. 
Anderson,  was  opened  on  the  island  of  Kulangsu. 

In  the  meantime,  Chrysanthemum,  whose  education 
had  been  begun  some  time  before  in  a  Christian  school, 
was  nearing  the  time  of  her  graduation,  and  had  be- 
come well  able  to  fill  the  place  of  teacher  to  her  younger 
sisters  and  to  any  others  who  might  wish  to  attend  the 
school. 

The  very  first  day,  there  were  four  little  girls  in  at- 
tendance. The  young  teacher.  Chrysanthemum,  en- 
tered upon  her  duties  with  great  anxiety  to  do  her 
very  best  for  the  pupils  sent  to  her  for  instruction. 
Soon  more  little  girls  came  to  this  school;  and  by  the 
close  of  the  school  year,  there  were  eleven  in  at- 
tendance. 

Here  the  Word  of  God  was  every  day  read  and 
taught;  and  its  teachings  were  a  surprise  to  those 
children,  some  of  whom  had  never  heard  the  wondrous 
story  of  a  Saviour's  love,  and  that  He  was  the  Creator 
of  the  world,  the  sun,  the  moon,  and  the  stars,  and 
every  living  creature. 


YUNG    KUNG    AND    YUNG   WAU 


(269) 


270  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

One  thing  that  especially  interested  them  was  the 
thought  that  none  of  those  gods  before  whom  they  had 
been  burning  incense  every  night  and  morning,  and  to 
whom  they  and  their  relatives  had  offered  numberless 
petitions,  was  the  God  who  had  made  all  things.  Their 
gods  were  not  like  this  God  who  loved  even  a  poor  little 
ignorant  girl,  but  were  gods  who  had  to  be  pro- 
pitiated with  all  sorts  of  dainty  foods,  incense,  and 
fine-sounding  prayers,  or  they  would  become  angry  and 
destroy  their  worshipers.  Then,  too,  their  gods  caused 
all  sorts  of  terrible  epidemics,  storms,  and  disasters, 
to  take  revenge  upon  their  helpless  victims. 

Yes,  truly,  this  new  God  was  a  strange  one,  who 
noticed  if  even  a  little  sparrow  fell  to  the  ground. 

The  foreign  lady  who  was  in  charge  of  the  school 
came  and  told  them  of  the  wonderful  love  of  Jesus  — 
how  He  loved  the  little  children,  held  them  in  His  arms, 
and  blessed  them.  Surely  it  was  better  to  love  and 
obey  such  a  God. 

The  little  girls  went  home  with  the  marvelous  stories. 

One  little  child,  having  heard  that  God  created  the 
world  and  all  the  people  in  it,  and  that  He  was  not 
pleased  to  have  His  children  worship  the  graven 
images,  went  home  to  her  parents  and  pleaded  with 
them  to  take  down  their  heathen  gods.  When  the  time 
came  for  the  worship  of  these  worthless  relics,  she  said 
she  dared  not  worship  them,  for  it  would  make  her  dear 
Lord  sad  and  ashamed  of  her.  So  in  spite  of  persua- 
sions and  punishments,  the  little  girl  stood  faithful  to 
her  beloved  Saviour. 

As  the  news  of  this  school  was  spread  throughout 
that  section  of  the  city,  the  attendance  was  increased 
to  thirty,  then  forty,  then  seventy. 


BEGINNINGS  AT  AMOY  271 

The  mothers  and  relatives  of  these  girls  were  visited 
by  the  Chinese  teachers  and  the  foreign  ladies,  and 
some  vi^ere  persuaded  to  attend  the  Sabbath  services. 
For  those  who  were  afraid  to  leave  home,  meetings 
were  held  in  their  homes. 

Many  times,  the  mothers  and  friends  of  the  little 
girls  conversed  together  about  the  school,  and  the 
great  benefit  it  had  been  to  their  girls ;  how  kind  and 
obedient  they  had  become  since  they  had  gone  to  hear 
about  the  new  God.  Thus  lights  were  lighted  in  hun- 
dreds of  homes.  During  the  ten  years  that  this 
school  has  been  open,  nearly  a  thousand  girls  have 
therein  received  instruction  in  the  truths  of  God's 
Word,  and  as  many  homes  have  heard  the  story  of  a 
Saviour's  love. 

Some  of  these  girls  have  in  turn  become  teachers  in 
our  schools,  who  are  willing  to  bear  burdens  in  the 
cause  of  the  Saviour  they  love.  Some  have  married 
Adventist  young  men,  and  are  helping  to  hold  up  the 
light  of  truth  before  their  neighbors  and  friends  by 
their  humble  Christian  behavior. 

In  one  large  heathen  family,  there  was  a  young  man 
who  had  heard  the  truth  at  the  chapel  near  the  school. 
Later  he  married  one  of  our  most  earnest  Christian 
girls  from  the  school,  and  they  erected  the  family  altar 
of  worship  to  the  only  true  God,  and  in  that  heathen 
home  hold  up  the  light  of  truth. 

One  (lay,  the  scourge  of  smallpox  came  into  their 
community,  and  three  of  the  young  children  of  the 
elder  brother  were  brought  near  death's  door.  The 
mother  was  determined  to  call  on  the  idols  and  inquire 
of  them ;  but  these  two  consecrated  young  people,  in 
faith  believing  the  promise  of  our  Saviour  to  two  who 


272 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


are  agreed  as  touching  anything,  that  if  they  ask  in 
faith,  they  shall  receive,  pleaded  with  God  for  help, 
and  at  last  persuaded  the  mother  to  let  them  call  the 
Christian  pastor  in  to  pray  for  them. 

The  pastor  called  the  church  together  for  fasting 
and  prayer  in  behalf  of  these  three  heathen  children, 
that  God's  power  and  glory  might  be  made  manifest. 
God  heard  those  tried  and  praying  ones,  and  the 
children  were  healed.  This  is  but  one  of  the  many  in- 
stances of  how  God  is  using  every  means  to  glorify  His 
name  among  the  heathen. 

Gift  was  the  Christian  pastor  called  in  to  pray  for 
the  children. 

Chrysanthemum,  who  has  now  a  home  of  her  own, 
with  little  ones  and  her  home  burdens,  still  spends 
hours  during  the  day  in  visiting  the  homes  of  her 
former  pupils,  and  teaching  those  of  their  relatives 
who  will  hear  the  word  of  life. 


Pressing  Toward  the  Border  of  Tibet 

Dk.  J.   N.   Andrkws 

Mountain-girt  Tibet  lies  in  the  heart  of  Asia,  north 
of  India  and  west  of  China.  It  is  still  "the  great  closed 
land."  Few  Europeans  have  ever  been  inside  its  borders. 
No  other  country  has  so  isolated  itself  from  contact  with 
the  modern  world. 

For  a  century,  missions  have  sought  to  get  into  this  land 
of  the  Grand  Lama,  the  head  of  Tibetan  Buddhism,  a 
religious  system  that  has  barred  all  the  gateways  to  mis- 
sionary approach.  The  Moravians  long  laid  siege  to  one 
entrance,  on  the  North  India  border,  in  the  Himalayas  — 
and  still  they  are  waiting. 

Miss  Annie  Taylor,  of  England,  seems  to  have  come 
nearest  to  passing  the  barriers.  She  got  into  Tibet  by  the 
road  from  Darjiling,  the  Northeast  India  hill  station.  She 
had  learned  Tibetan,  and  had  won  a  helper  from  among  the 
Tibetans  who  have  settled  along  the  Indian  side  of  the  bor- 
der. Braving  the  ire  of  the  Lama  priests,  she  crossed  into 
Tibet,  and  preached  from  village  to  village.  When  the 
priests  at  one  period  forbade  any  one  to  sell  her  food, 
women  whose  hearts  had  been  touched  by  her  ministry 
secretly  dropped  handfuls  of  parched  corn  in  the  roadway 
as  they  passed;  and  so  her  wants  were  supplied.  Miss 
Taylor  also  attempted  entrance  from  China.  But  at  last, 
she  was  worn  out  })y  the  battle  and  forced  to  retreat. 

From  the  West  China  border,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Rijnhart 
pres.sed  in  some  years  ago  in  the  effort  to  open  a  w&y  if 
possible.  One  of  the  most  intense  scenes  in  missionary 
annals  is  that  pictured  in  Susie  Rijnhart's  narrative,  tell- 
ing how  one  day,  in  a  hostile  country,  Dr.  Rijnhart  left  her 
in  their  tent  by  the  roadway  while  he  went  forward  to  a 
village,  around  a  spur  of  inounlain,  to  see  if  he  could  get 
supplies.  She  watched  her  husband  disappear  around  the 
turn  of  the  road  —  and  he  never  came  back.  She  wrote: 
•  "The  cattle  and  the  sheep  spread  out  over  the  hills  across 
the  river,  and  all  nature  basked  in  the  sunshine;  but  as 
the  hours  of  the  second  day  sped  on,  and  no  trace  of  him 
was  seen,  my  heart  almost  ceased  beating.  Well  it  was 
that  we  had  learned  to  trust  (iod  in  hard  and  difficult 
places.  What  el.se  supported  me  through  the  leaden  hours 
of  that  day  but  the  thought  that  I  was  in  (iod's  hands? 


'Notliinif    l>cfi>rr.    nothinK    lichiml, 

The  BtcpH   of    faith 
Full   on    the  Bpcmini?   voiil,   nml    I'lml 

The    riick    hpiicnlh.' 


(273) 


IK 


274 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


"But  I  must  admit  it  was  a  faith  amidst  a  darkness  so 
thick  and  black  that  I  could  not  enjoy  the  sunshine.  Eve- 
ning found  me  still  alone  with  God,  just  as  I  had  been  the 
night  before." 


A  MOSO  SHEPHERD,  FROM  A  SEMI-TIBETAN   TRIBE 


PRESSING  TOWARD  THE  BORDER  OF  TIBET  275 

Mi-s.  Rijnhart  could  get  no  news  of  her  lost  companion, 
and  could  only  turn  back  alone. 

More  recently  there  are  signs  of  a  weakening  of  the 
age-long  resistance.  Meanwhile,  at  several  points,  mission 
outposts  have  been  planted  among  the  Tibetans  in  West 
China,  along  the  borderlands.  The  province  of  Szechuan, 
China,  is  mainly  Tibetan  west  of  Tatsienlu.  In  fact,  the 
old  border  of  Tibet  reached  to  Tatsienlu,  which  was  the 
frontier  trading  station  between  China  and  Tibet. 

Now  our  own  outpost  in  West  China  is  Tatsienlu,  and 
we  are  at  last  among  the  Tibetans.  A  few  years  ago  Mis- 
sionaries Warren,  Andrews,  and  Blandford  made  a  tour 
on  foot  to  spy  out  the  land  in  western  Szechuan.  They 
went  as  far  as  Tatsienlu.  When  the  plan  of  a  Tibetan  mis- 
sion was  later  proposed.  Dr.  and  Mrs.  J.  N.  Andrews 
volunteered  to  pioneer  the  way.  They  had  been  located  in 
Chungking,  on  the  Yangtze,  in  dispensary  and  evangelistic 
work.  Their  route  lay  up  the  Yangtze,  by  boat,  to  its  junc- 
tion with  the  Min  River,  thence  up  the  Min  to  Kiatingfu, 
thence  overland  to  Tatsienlu.  In  the  following  letter, 
written  to  our  Shanghai  office,  Dr.  Andrews  described  the 
journey.  Editor. 

Our  boat  was  large  and  roomy,  both  to  carry  our 
many  thing.s  and  to  make  the  summer  traveling  as 
comfortable  as  possible.  We  were  very  comfortable 
during  most  of  the  trip  by  boat. 

We  were  towed  upstream  by  ten  men,  who  usually 
worked  long  hours;  but  the  boat  was  heavily  loaded, 
the  current  swift  in  many  places,  and  frequent  cross- 
ing of  the  wide  river  would  carry  us  long  distances 
downstream.  All  together,  progress  was  slow.  Fifteen 
days  (including  Sabbath  stops)  brought  us  to  Suifu. 
This  section  of  the  Yangtze  has  no  high  gf)rges  like 
those  below  Chungking,  but  the  green  hills  and  many 
towns  and  villages  along  its  banks  are  nevertheless 
interesting  and  beautiful.  Several  points  we  watched 
for  were  places  where  one  year  before,  on  a  trip  into 
Yunnan  and  Kweichow,  Elder  Warren  and  I  had  been 
shot  at  or  made  to  stop  by  robbers  who  held  the  river. 


276  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

This  time,  these  points  were  quiet,  and  we  neither 
met  nor  heard  of  any  robbers  in  that  section.  At 
Suifu,  we  turned  up  the  river  Min,  smaller  than  the 
Yangtze,  but  swift  and  with  many  turns.  Our  first 
day  upon  it  proved  too  much  for  our  towline,  which 
broke,  the  boat  turning  around  and  around,  and  float- 
ing back  to  the  bigger  river  and  nearly  out  of  sight 
of  Suifu  before  being  brought  to  a  stop. 

The  Min  Kiang  had  much  of  interest  for  us.  We 
were  told  that  just  back  from  the  banks,  much  opium 
is  grown,  notwithstanding  the  law  prohibits  poppy 
cultivation.  It  is  done  a  bit  under  cover.  Also  on  some 
islands  in  the  river  it  is  grown,  though  because  of  the 
late  season,  we  saw  none  on  this  trip.  The  effects  of 
its  cheapness  were  seen  in  the  workmen  everywhere, 
though  not  till  later  were  we  brought  up  against  the 
full  effects  of  this  drug  on  the  poor  people. 

The  water  was  high,  at  one  point  covering  a  house 
where  our  carpenter  brother,  who  accompanies  us,  had 
stayed  overnight  a  few  months  before  when  canvass- 
ing. Several  vi^recked  junks  lay  along  the  banks,  where 
the  swift  current  and  abrupt  turns  had  thrown  them 
against  rocks.  On  Thursday,  the  twenty-fourth  day  of 
our  trip,  we  packed  what  loose  things  we  could  spare, 
and  prepared  to  arrive  at  Kiatingfu  either  that  night 
or  the  ne.xt  day.  There  our  journey  by  water  would 
end.  We  were  counting  the  li  [a  li  is  one  third  of  a 
mile  I  remaining  of  our  boat  trip  —  30  li,  25  li,  20  li  — 
when  the  boat  jolted  a  bit.  We  hardly  noticed  it;  but 
the  men  opened  the  holds  and  found  water  pouring  in. 
We  had  struck  a  rock,  and  our  boat  was  sinking.  We 
got  a  few  things  to  the  deck  floor,  and  called  for 
boats  to  help  us;  but  very  soon  we  rested  on  the  bot- 


PRESSING  TOWARD  THE  BORDER  OF  TIBET 


277 


torn,  our  four  feet  of  holds  nearly  full  of  water.  In 
time,  a  boat  or  two  came;  and  by  dark,  our  things  were 
piled  on  them.  The  next  day  —  the  fourth  of  July  — 
after  long  and  strenuous  urging,  the  three  little  boats 


(c;  I iilrriialiniial  h'ihii 


A    NATIVK    CAUrKNTKK 


278  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

we  had  hired  set  out  for  Kiatingfu  in  the  rain.  We 
had  a  can  of  peaches  and  some  condensed  milk,  to  aid 
our  lunch,  and  had  a  pleasant  twenty  li  on  top  of  our 
wet  boxes,  a  matting  covering  us  to  keep  out  the  rain. 
About  two  o'clock,  we  reached  Kiatingfu.  Soon  we 
had  two  rooms  in  a  hotel.  They  were  dark  rooms,  but 
became  quite  light  when  our  clotheslines,  weighted 
with  our  wet  things,  pulled  out  part  of  the  wall,  which 
opened  into  a  little  court.  By  sundown,  we  had  nearly 
all  our  clothes  hung  out.  The  next  week  was  spent  in 
hanging  out  more  things,  opening  up  books  (which 
were  covered  thickly  with  mold,  as  most  of  them  had 
now  had  two  river  soakings),  and  wiping  metal  ware. 
The  dispensary  supplies  were  generally  intact,  our 
drugs  having  been  put  into  bottles  for  such  an  emer- 
gency. Our  stores  of  sugar  and  flour  did  not  come 
through  so  well. 

We  were  very  glad  to  be  at  hand  when  such  a  thing 
happened,  if  it  had  to  come.  Being  able  to  take  things 
in  hand  at  once,  we  really  lost  but  little.  We  thought 
how  much  less  would  have  been  lost  in  our  wreck  two 
years  ago  on  the  lower  Yangtze,  if  we  could  have 
opened  the  goods  up  and  cared  for  them  at  the  time 
rather  than  not  see  them  (as  it  then  happened)  till  two 
months  after  the  accident  occurred. 

From  Kiatingfu,  we  had  planned  to  raft  our  goods 
to  Yachowfu, —  the  usual  method, —  we  going  by  land 
to  await  the  goods  at  that  place.  But  the  river  was 
high,  and  no  rafts  dared  start  out ;  and  also,  we  didn't 
feel  like  trusting  our  goods  out  of  our  sight  after  the 
experience  we  had  just  had.  So  we  had  all  our  goods 
taken  by  road.  It  made  a  great  caravan  —  sixty-nine 
coolies  and  an  escort  of  twelve  soldiers. 


PRESSING  TOWARD  THE  BORDER  OF  TIBET  279 

Our  first  day  out  showed  how  really  the  Lord  was 
directing  in  delaying  us  those  few  days  at  Kiatingfu. 
Just  a  few  days  before,  during  the  time  we  were  in  the 
hotel,  the  river  up  which  we  were  following  had  sud- 
denly risen  one  day,  rising  sixteen  or  eighteen  feet, 
and  covering  all  the  roads  fully  five  feet.  The  water 
went  down  in  about  two  days.  If  we  had  been  caught 
out  along  this  road  at  that  time,  our  company  and 
goods  would  have  fared  very  badly  indeed. 

It  was  here  that  the  experience  with  the  hotels 
began.  Some  were  almost  comfortable.  Some  were 
just  dirty  holes,  next  to  pigpens,  which  we  paid  forty 
cash  [four  cents]  a  family  for  —  and  felt  they  were 
dear  at  that.  At  some  places,  the  people  were  helpful, 
and  seemed  glad  to  have  us  come  to  their  inns;  but 
usually  no  one  wanted  to  let  us  in,  fearing  the  re- 
sponsibility of  so  large  a  company.  It  rained  a  good 
deal  these  few  days.  The  walking  was  not  at  all  good. 
We  had  a  quantity  of  oiled  silk,  and  kept  most  of  our 
goods  fairly  dry.  We  followed  along  the  river  bank 
for  five  days,  crossing  and  recrossing  once  or  twice  a 
day  in  small  boats.  I  enjoyed  the  walk  very  much; 
but  because  of  one  or  two  very  hot  days,  I  took  a  sedan 
chair  from  Yachowfu. 

The  responsibility  of  keeping  track  of  all  these 
men  rested  with  the  firm  with  which  we  dealt  in  hir- 
ing the  carriers.  However,  the  care  of  the  goods  was 
entirely  ours,  as  a  coolie's  idea  of  adecjuate  carefulness 
is  very,  very  small.  A  few  little  matters  like  opening 
up  our  oilcloth  wrapping  around  bedding  to  put  in  the 
corn  stolen  along  the  road,  or  putting  a  bunch  of  filthy 
clothes  in  our  food  box  to  protect  them  from  the  rain, 
seemed  to  them  entiroly  proper. 


280  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

The  scenery  was  beautiful  —  and  we  did  enjoy 
it  immensely. 

We  reached  Yachow  Thursday  morning,  found  a 
nice  new  hotel,  and  settled  for  the  Sabbath.  Friday 
we  bargained  with  a  li  lang  ("strength  company"),  and 
we  put  in  a  long  day  Sunday  weighing  up  loads  for 
seventy-seven  men.  Because  of  the  high  mountain 
passes  ahead,  the  men  are  very  careful,  on  this  stage, 
to  keep  to  their  fixed  limit  of  weight  for  each  load,  and 
we  had  to  add  several  men  to  the  previous  number. 
Yachow  is  the  farthest  point  west  for  navigation  on 
these  rivers.  Because  of  great  rapids  and  falls,  even 
rafts  do  not  go  farther  than  this  place.  It  is  a  large 
city.  The  Baptists  have  a  station  here.  A  good  hos- 
pital is  conducted  by  them;  but  just  at  present,  it  is 
closed  for  lack  of  a  doctor.  The  city  has  been  can- 
vassed on  two  occasions  by  our  colporteurs,  with 
good  success. 

It  was  Monday  noon  (July  21)  before  we  could 
get  our  new  company  on  the  move.  We  had  a  climb 
immediately  outside  the  city,  following  up  a  rushing 
stream  into  the  mountains.  We  made  only  forty  li 
this  day.  The  second  day,  after  the  men  "ate"  their 
opium  (some  of  them  eat  it  several  times  a  day),  we 
started  again,  and  climbed  again.  The  road  crossed 
and  recrossed  the  roaring  stream,  going  up  and  up. 
We  walked  some  distance,  but  it  soon  began  to  rain. 
That  it  rains  here  almost  continuously,  the  rank  vege- 
tation clearly  shows.  Wherever  possible,  corn  and  rice 
are  raised;  and  bamboo  is  quite  plentiful.  The  road 
became  steeper  and  steeper,  till  at  about  five  o'clock 
we  reached  the  top  of  this  highest  pass  on  the  road, 
about  11,000  feet  high.    The  rain  stopped  just  before 


PRESSING  TOWARD  THE  BORDER  OF  TIBET  281 

we  reached  the  top,  and  the  clouds  and  mists  rolling 
around   the   mountain   tops   were   a   wonderful   sight. 

The  wind  was  cold,  and  we  headed  down  straight- 
way. This  side  of  the  mountain  is  much  drier  than 
the  other,  and  shrubs  and  trees  are  much  less  common. 
We  greatly  admire  the  wide  stone  road,  which  ascends 
to  the  very  tops  of  this  pass  —  built  as  the  main  mili- 
tary road  to  Tibet.  Except  the  main  road  from  Chung- 
king to  Chengtu,  we  have  not  seen  so  good  a  highway 
anywhere  else  in  West  China. 

But  our  wonderful  scenery  must  be  paid  for.  We 
reached  Chin  Chi  Hsien  after  dark  —  but  our  bed- 
ding did  not.  It  was  not  warm  that  night,  but  we 
slept  on  oilcloth  rather  than  use  native  bedding.  Of 
course,  our  nets  did  not  arrive  either;  but  fortunately 
the  mosquitoes  were  few.  Little  Bobby  had  his  usual 
good  night,  as  we  take  no  chances  with  his  outfit,  but 
keep  his  blankets  and  net  with  us  on  the  sedan  chair. 

The  next  days,  we  were  high  in  the  mountains, 
wading  swollen  streams,  stopping  at  little  villages 
with  poor  hotels  and  little  to  eat.  Four  nights  we 
went  without  our  bedding,  and  sometimes  also  with- 
out our  food  boxes.  Urging  on  the  stragglers  and 
changing  carriers  seemed  of  no  use.  We  stopped  Sab- 
bath at  Ni  Tou,  a  town  blessed  with  a  clean,  large 
hotel.  We  took  the  rooms  supposed  to  be  used  by 
officials  in  passing  through  (at  least  they  are  called 
officials'  rooms),  much  to  the  surprise  of  our  coolies, 
but  did  not  feel  unduly  honored.  There  are  few  "offi- 
cial" rooms  that  could  be  endured  long  by  a  foreigner. 

Sunday  we  crossed  the  second  high  pass.  It  was  a 
steady  climb  all  day,  high  on  a  bank  beside  a  small 
river,  now  and  then  making  long,  deep  drops  at  right 


282  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

angles  to  the  main  road,  to  go  around  a  gully  or  little 
stream  running  in.  In  the  afternoon,  the  trail  became 
steeper  and  steeper,  till  at  4 :  30  we  zigzagged  up  a 
thirty  degree  incline  and  were  really  at  the  top.  A 
snow-capped  peak  showed  itself  among  the  clouds  far 
to  the  west.  The  rolling  clouds  below  and  around  us 
and  the  great  mountains  in  all  directions  were  a  won- 
derful sight. 

But  the  wind  was  cold,  and  we  started  down  toward 
the  valley.  A  steep  drop  for  hours  took  us  through 
wild  brush,  with  strawberries  and  raspberries,  and 
through  little  towns  surrounded  by  opium  poppy  fields 
in  full  bloom  which  have  done  their  worst  for  a  shift- 
less population.  A  soldier  guard  in  rags  presided  over 
the  trade,  some  with  no  hats  or  guns,  but  extracting 
what  money  they  could  from  the  people  for  their 
precious  weed.  The  old-time  punishments  being  still 
carried  out,  one  poor  man  whose  opium  appetite  had 
driven  him  to  thieving,  swung  in  the  doorway  of  the 
yamen,  hung  up  by  his  wrists  tied  behind  him. 

We  were  pleased  to  meet  in  one  village  some  mem- 
bers of  the  Lolo  tribes  who  had  come  to  market.  The 
Lolo  country  is  to  the  southward,  still  inaccessible  on 
account  of  the  fierce  opposition  of  its  people  to  any 
travelers.  One  Lolo  tribesman  whom  we  saw  could 
speak  good  Chinese,  and  we  hastily  held  a  preaching 
service  for  his  benefit.  We  were  happy  to  see  the 
interest  he  seemed  to  manifest.  These  were  the  first 
of  these  people  I  had  seen  in  Szechuan,  and  doubtless 
they  were  the  first  to  hear  our  message. 

Throughout  the  trip,  we  were  so  sorry  for  the 
coolies  along  the  road,  hundreds  —  thousands  —  of 
them  struggling  along  a  few  steps  at  a  time  under 


PRESSING  TOWARD  THE  BORDER  OF  TIBET 


283 


great  loads  of  tea  for  Tibet.  They  earn  just  enough 
to  buy  the  coarse  corn  cakes,  the  only  article  of  diet 
here,  and  to  supply  their  opium.  Little  boys  begin 
with  what  they  can  carry,  getting  their  backs  tough- 
ened while  young,  for  the  long  road  that  ends  only 
when,  a  mere  skeleton  remaining,  and  no  money  for 
opium,  their  days  come  to  an  end.     One  poor  man  1 


% 


^^H 

"  1 

i    ■ 

• 

AN  OLIJ  IJUlJlJlUST  I'KILST  TAl'l'liNi,  A   S1KAN(;K  Kl.SH-MOUTHKK 
GONG  KOK  THE  TKMPI.K  SKKVICES 


284  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

heard  complaining  of  the  high  cost  of  keeping  supplied 
with  straw  sandals  (at  one  or  two  cents  a  pair!)  — 
his  whole  living  going  into  opium. 

From  the  foot  of  this  mountain,  we  turn  to  the 
right  (northwest)  up  a  great  caiion,  which  we  follow 
for  nearly  two  days.  The  river  here  is  a  large  stream, 
which  finds  its  way  to  Kiatingfu.  Our  road  is  some- 
times high  above  it  on  rocky  cliffs,  and  again  down  near 
the  level  of  the  water.  This  section  grows  little  useful 
vegetation,  the  hills  being  sandy  and  the  road  lined 
with  cactus.  Twenty  miles  from  our  journey's  end, 
we  turn  to  the  left  up  a  roaring  river,  which  is  one 
continuous  dashing  waterfall  for  the  whole  sixty  li  of 
our  last  day.  We  climb  up  and  up  continuously,  spend- 
ing one  night  without  our  food  boxes  or  bedding,  in  a 
little  room  with  one  bed,  while  the  cold  wind  howled 
outside.  In  the  morning,  the  wind  still  blew  hard; 
but  the  sun  was  bright,  and  in  two  hours  we  came  in 
sight  of  this  little  town  of  Tatsienlu,  toward  which  we 
had  looked  for  so  long. 

The  members  of  the  China  Inland  Mission  here 
met  us  most  cordially.  They  had  rented  rooms  for  us 
in  a  Chinese  house,  and  had  them  cleaned  and  papered, 
to  make  us  comfortable  on  our  arrival.  We  felt  very 
grateful,  at  the  end  of  fifty-two  days  on  the  road,  to 
meet  this  very  kind  reception.  It  was  a  great  blessing 
that  we  found  immediate  shelter  for  ourselves  and 
goods.  This  small  city  has  not  the  conveniences  of 
larger  places  in  China;  but  we  have  a  nice  little  build- 
ing and  compound,  are  getting  settled  and  having  fur- 
niture made,  and  hope  soon  to  be  working  in  earnest 
for  the  long  neglected  Tibetan  people  we  find  here. 
Tatsienlu,  August  2U,  1919. 


FROM  MANY  PENS 

The  Test  of  Faith 

Mrs.  Myrtie  B.  Cottbei.l 

•  In  a  small  city  of  Hunan  where  we  have  an  out- 
station,  a  young  married  woman  had  been  groping  her 
way  from  heathenism  into  Christianity.  Mrs.  Li,  our 
Bible  woman,  had  been  teaching  her  to  read  the  Gos- 
pels, that  she  might  more  perfectly  understand  the 
way  of  life.  For  some  time,  she  had  been  looking  for- 
ward with  joy  to  the  time  when  the  "foreign  pastor" 
would  come  to  their  town,  so  that  she  might  follow 
her  Lord  in  baptism. 

But  now  her  one  child,  a  little  son,  fell  ill.  The 
mother,  in  her  new-found  trust  in  our  heavenly  Father, 
prayed  for  the  little  one's  restoration,  and  her  prayer 
was  answered.     This  greatly  increased  her  faith. 

At  last,  the  long  expected  day  came  when  the  for- 
eign pastor  visited  the  city;  and  it  was  announced  that 
the  next  morning,  opportunity  would  be  given  for  those 
who  were  prepared,  to  take  part  in  the  baptismal  rite. 
Again  this  mother's  little  one  was  violently  ill.  She 
brought  him  to  the  mission  for  .special  prayer,  trust- 
ing that  it  would  please  God  to  rai.se  him  as  before; 
but  the  child  died  that  same  night. 

Here  came  the  great  test  for  the  mother  and  the 
relatives.  Ordinarily,  the  mother  would  have  given 
herself  up  to  loud  mourning  and  wailing,  refusing  to 
be  comforted  for  days.  Many  times  we  have  seen  Chi- 
nese women  throw  themselves  down,  tearing  them- 
selves away  from  the  friends  who  were  trying  to 
support  and  comfort  them  in  their  grief,  wailing  in  a 

(28r)) 


286  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

most  distressing  manner.  What  would  the  religion  of 
Jesus  Christ  do  for  this  poor  woman,  who  had  all  her 
days  been  surrounded  by  heathenism  and  its  customs? 
Would  her  experience  stand  the  test? 

The  child  was  buried  before  nine  o'clock  the  next 
morning,  and  this  sad  young  mother  soon  after  pre- 
sented herself  silently  among  the  candidates  for  bap- 
tism. The  test  had  been  a  severe  one,  but  Jesus  had 
been  sufficient  and  had  comforted  her  heart.  Her 
calm,  peaceful  demeanor  as  she  entered  the  baptismal 
waters  was  regarded  by  all  her  friends  as  a  miracle 
of  the  Lord's  grace,  and  testified  more  loudly  than 
could  many  sermons  to  the  peace  and  comfort  found 
in  Christ,  and  to  the  power  of  His  grace,  even  amid 
heathen  surroundings,  to  transform  the  life. 


School  Around  a  Rice  Sieve 

Hung  Hki  Yinc. 

While  visiting  among  the  country  villages  back  in 
the  interior  from  my  home,  I  was  surprised  to  find  the 
children  in  one  village  intelligent  in  Bible  knowledge. 
They  seemed  to  know  about  the  Bible  characters,  and 
could  answer  readily  a  great  many  questions.  This 
was  very  strange  indeed,  for  the  women  and  even  many 
of  the  men  did  not  know  how  to  read.  Where,  then, 
had  these  children  learned? 

I  asked  if  they  had  a  school  in  their  village. —  No, 
there  was  no  school  there.  A  chapel,  then?  —  No, 
there  was  no  chapel  in  that  part.  Where,  then,  have 
you  learned  these  things?     One  boy  answered  that  a 


FROM   MANY  PENS  287 

certain  man  in  the  village  taught  the  boys  a  little  every 
evening. 

I  made  it  in  my  vi^ay  to  search  out  this  man,  and 
this  is  what  I  saw:  He  was  a  farmer,  and  lived  in  a 
little  mud-brick  house  with  a  straw  roof  and  no  floor. 
He  was  a  poor  man,  too,  for  he  must  pay  a  high  rent 
on  the  fields  he  tilled.  But  every  day,  after  the  eve- 
ning meal  was  finished,  he  gathered  into  his  little  home 
his  own  children,  and  as  many  others  as  were  willing 
and  free  to  come.  The  big  rice  sieve  was  turned  over 
on  the  bottom  of  a  grain  basket,  and  the  children 
clustered  around  it  for  their  lesson.  This  was  their 
table,  and  the  plain  farmer  was  their  teacher.  The 
.school  went  merrily  on  for  an  hour  or  more,  the  teacher 
naming  the  characters,  and  the  children,  all  together, 
repeating  them  after  him.  Afterward  each  child  took 
turn  in  reading  by  himself,  after  which  their  teacher 
spent  a  few  minutes  explaining  the  meaning  of  what 
had  been  studied. 

The  table  was  then  inverted,  and  became  a  rice 
sieve  again,  and  the  teacher  was  transformed  into  the 
farmer.  "Come,  children,  we  must  work  the  harder 
now  to  make  up  for  the  time  spent  in  reading.  All 
hands  move  fast."  The  children  flew  to  their  work 
with  the  same  willing  spirit  they  had  shown  in  their 
study. 

These  people  were  too  poor  to  spare  the  children 
from  work  during  the  daytime,  too  poor  to  help  sup- 
port a  school,  or  even  to  afford  a  table  upon  which  to 
lay  their  books;  but  earnestness  and  zeal  made  up  for 
the  lack  of  these  things,  and  eternity  alone  will  reveal 
the  influence  of  that  faithful  farmer  and  his  school 
around  the  rice  sieve. 


The  "Flavor"  in  the  Word 

Mks.  Myrtie  Cottrkli, 

One  of  our  evangelists  was  lately  in  a  place  in  Honan 
where  he  could  get  no  water  except  in  a  heathen 
temple.  As  he  went  for  it,  he  found  himself  in  the 
hands  of  a  band  of  robbers. 

"Who  are  you?"  they  demanded. 

He  told  them. 

"Are  you  from  the  church  in  Cheo  Chia  K'o?"  they 
asked. 

"Yes,"  he  replied. 

"Oh,"  they  said,  "that  is  a  good  church!  They  do 
good  and  help  people." 

They  gave  him  water,  and  he  went  on  his  way  re- 
joicing that  the  work  done  had  given  the  station  a 
good  name  even  among  the  robbers. 

WHAT  THE  BLIND  WOMAN  SAW 
In  South  China,  one  of  our  workers  baptized  a  blind 
woman  who  was  sixty-two  years  of  age.  As  she  stood 
for  about  twenty  minutes  answering  the  questions  as 
to  why  she  wanted  to  be  a  Christian,  God's  Spirit  came 
in  and  melted  hearts.  Tears  dampened  every  eye  be- 
fore she  sat  down.  Not  one  question  did  she  fail  to 
answer,  and  intelligently,  too. 

"She  said  she  could  not  see  us,  and  had  never  seen 
the  Bible,  and  could  not  read  a  word  of  it,  even  if  she 
had  her  eyesight,  but  was  happy  that  she  could  see  as 
far  into  the  kingdom  by  the  eyes  of  faith  as  any  one 
of  us.  She  said  that  some  day  she  should  be  able  to 
see  Jesus,  and  that  when  He  gave  her  eyes  to  see,  she 
wanted  Him  to  be  the  first  one  upon  whom  they  should 
look,  then  next  she  wanted  to  see  the  man  who  had 
(288) 


FROM   MANY  PENS  289 

spent   so  many   hours   in   teaching   her   the   way   to 
heaven." 

About  four  hundred  persons  saw  this  aged  woman 
buried  in  the  watery  grave.  As  she  came  up  from  the 
water,  she  stopped  to  tell  the  people  why  she  had  de- 
cided to  go  into  the  back  street,  into  the  little  room,  to 
worship  with  the  few  Christians,  instead  of  going 
with  the  multitude,  as  she  had  always  done  before. 


A  Girl  in  China 

A.  L.  Ham 

Some  of  our  young  people  in  the  mission  field  have 
real  trials,  greater  than  most  of  our  young  people  in 
the  homeland  are  called  to  endure.  It  will  be  a  source 
of  encouragement  to  you  to  know  that  they  are  usually 
faithful.  The  strength  to  with.stand  the  temptations 
which  come  to  them  is  obtained  in  the  same  way  that 
you  may  overcome  the  assaults  of  Satan ;  namely,  by 
prayer.  This  is  shown  in  the  following  letter  from  a 
young  girl  in  our  school: 

"My  name  is  Chan  Wan  Heung,  and  I  was  born  in 
China  in  the  year  189G.  While  I  lived  with  my  mother, 
she  used  to  worship  idols,  and  I  did  not  know  anything 
about  the  true  God.  I  have  an  older  brother  and  sister, 
but  they  still  worship  idols. 

"My  father  went  to  America  to  work,  and  was  bap- 
tized while  there.  In  1912,  he  came  home  to  China, 
and  has  lived  here  since. 

"When  he  came  back,  and  the  people  found  that  he 
was  a  Christian,  he  was  treated  very  badly,  so  he 
moved  his  family  to  another  place.  When  I  was  six- 
teen years  of  age,  I  went  to  a  school  where  we  lived, 


19 


290  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

until  vacation  time,  when  Pastor  Wilbur  and  his  family 
went  to  Macou  for  a  vacation.  They  lived  next  door 
to  us.  We  often  heard  them  singing  hymns  and  pray- 
ing to  God.  They  were  very  kind  to  us,  and  when 
they  had  time,  they  came  over  and  talked  with  us 
about  the  Bible.  I  was  very  glad  to  hear  about  the 
Bible,  but  my  father  did  not  like  it  so  well,  as  he  said 
that  Mr.  Wilbur  did  as  the  Jews.  Pastor  Wilbur  asked 
me  to  attend  the  Sabbath  school;  so  every  week,  I 
heard  about  the  Bible  and  learned  to  pray  to  God. 

"My  father  did  not  like  to  have  me  attend  the 
meetings,  but  later  I  went  to  Canton  to  Bethel  Girls' 
School,  and  was  baptized  when  I  was  seventeen  years 
of  age.  One  month  after  I  was  baptized,  I  was  taken 
sick,  and  my  mother  came  to  the  school  and  took  me 
home;  but  while  I  was  home,  I  continually  prayed  to 
God  just  the  same.  When  my  folks  saw  me  pray,  they 
became  angry.  One  day,  when  we  were  having  our 
dinner,  I  prayed  to  thank  God  first.  When  they  saw 
me  do  this,  they  threw  the  food  on  my  head. 

"I  am  very  sorry  that  my  family  do  not  know  God. 
I  am  wishing  all  the  time  for  an  opportunity  to  tell 
them  more  about  the  Bible  and  God.  I  thank  God  be- 
cause He  blessed  me  and  keeps  me  well. 

"I  have  been  here  in  school  nearly  three  years,  and  I 
hope  that  all  the  brothers  and  sisters  will  pray  for  me 
that  I  may  learn  to  preach  the  Bible  truths  to  other 
people,  and  I  pray  that  God  will  bless  all  the  brothers 
and  sisters  till  Jesus  comes  back  to  this  earth." 

Notice,  if  you  will,  the  family  thought,  that  we  are 
all  "brothers  and  sisters"  to  these  Chinese  people,  and 
as  such  should  pray  for  them  as  they  are  praying 
for  us. 


CHAN   WAN   HEUNG 


(291) 


Returning  from  a  Pilgrimage 

Bern  HARD  Petersen 

Only  a  few  days  ago  we  were  visited  by  a  very  de- 
vout Buddhist  by  the  name  of  Li,  who  was  returning 
from  a  pilgrimage  to  the  well-known  holy  mountain, 
Wu  Tai  Shan,  in  the  vicinity  of  Peking.  There  are 
many  who  go  to  this  mountain  annually  to  worship. 
It  is  said  to  take  several  years  to  reach  the  place,  if 
the  regular  rules  are  followed,  one  of  which  is  to  make 
a  bow  for  every  step,  even  when  passing  a  stream.  If 
one  makes  such  a  pilgrimage  to  this  mountain,  he  is 
supposed  to  obtain  eternal  blessings. 

This  man  Li  had  spent  seven  days  on  the  mountain, 
worshiping  every  day,  when,  on  account  of  a  false 
alarm,  he  was  directed  homeward.  One  day  after  he 
had  reached  Mukden  and  was  walking  down  the  street, 
he  passed  our  chapel,  and  being  attracted  by  the  sign 
hanging  outside  the  door,  went  in,  desiring  to  make 
investigation.  He  sat  down  and  studied  with  the  evan- 
gelist, and  became  very  much  interested  in  the  Bible. 
He  exclaimed  several  times:  "This  is  surely  the  true 
doctrine.  I  never  heard  anything  like  it  before." 
When  he  left,  he  purchased  several  books,  saying  that 
he  was  going  to  study  deeper  into  these  truths.  There 
are  many  like  him,  sitting  in  heathen  darkness,  only 
waiting  for  some  one  to  direct  them  to  the  true  path. 


Beaten  by  a  Mob;  Now  an  Evangelist 

R.   F.  COTTRELL 

In  the  early  summer  of  1912,  Mrs.  Cottrell  and  the 
writer  responded  to  an  invitation  to  visit  Hwa  Yung, 
a  small  city  in  northern  Hunan.    We  conducted  a  three 
(292) 


o 
z 

id 
o 

CO 

<: 

Q 
U 
W 

H 

H 
& 

oa 
u 


(293) 


294  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

days'  meeting  in  a  hall  that  had  been  fitted  up  as  a 
chapel  by  the  inquirers.  Large  numbers  attended  the 
services,  and  everything  passed  off  without  unusual 
occurrence  until  Sunday  morning,  v^hen  Mr.  Djou's 
younger  son,  a  boy  of  some  sixteen  years,  came  run- 
ning into  the  chapel,  his  clothes  smeared  with  mud, 
telling  us  that  he  had  been  caught,  beaten,  and  kicked 
about  in  the  street  by  a  mob. 

Since  that  day  in  June,  a  growing  church  has  been 
organized  in  Hwa  Yung ;  and  from  that  place,  several 
workers  have  gone  forth  into  the  Lord's  vineyard. 
Among  these  is  Djou  Wen  Hsuen  —  the  son  of 
Mr.  Djou,  who  first  opened  his  home  to  a  passing  col- 
porteur —  the  boy  who  was  beaten  on  that  Sunday 
morning. 

Brother  Djou  Wen  Hsuen  spent  considerable  time 
in  selling  literature.  He  also  spent  two  years  at  the 
China  Mission  Training  School  in  Shanghai.  His 
present  place  of  labor  is  not  in  his  native  Hunan,  but 
in  the  southernmost  prefecture  of  Kiangsi,  where,  with 
his  wife,  he  is  located,  and  is  in  charge  of  a  flourish- 
ing interest.  Heaven  is  smiling  upon  the  efforts  put 
.  forth  at  Kanchau,  Kiangsi.  Already  about  twenty  of 
the  company  at  that  place  have  been  baptized,  and  some 
very  intelligent  young  people  from  their  number  are 
attending  the  Shanghai  school. 


Varied  Experiences 

S.  A.  Nagbl 

THE   WATCHMAN    WHO   QUIT 

During  the  greater  part  of  1915,  I  was  alone  in  Wai 

Chow  —  the  only  white  person  in  the  country  —  my 

wife  having  returned  to  the  United  States  on  furlough. 


FROM   MANY  PENS  295 

We  are  always  having  more  or  less  trouble  from  rob- 
bers and  pirates  in  the  Hakka  field,  but  that  period 
was  worse  than  usual.  Almost  every  night,  I  was 
awakened  by  cries,  shouting,  shooting,  etc.,  in  villages 
round  about,  which  were  being  attacked  by  robbers. 
Though  we  live  just  outside  the  Little  East  Gate,  the 
parents  were  afraid  to  send  their  children  out  to  school 
for  fear  of  their  being  kidnaped.  I  thought  to  help 
matters  by  hiring  a  watchman  to  remain  on  duty  all 
night.  In  China,  a  watchman  beats  his  drum  at  short 
intervals  —  perhaps  to  give  intruders  fair  warning 
that  he  is  near,  perhaps  to  let  his  master  know  that 
he  is  not  asleep.  This  man  beat  the  drum  only  one 
night.  The  next  morning,  he  came  to  me  in  great 
excitement,  and  said  he  would  not  dare  to  come  again, 
because  he  heard  three  devils  crying  all  that  night. 
He  never  returned,  though  I  explained  that  he  heard 
only  the  wind  blowing  in  the  bamboo. 

TWO  FUNERALS 
Two  funerals  I  have  conducted  of  late  have  had 
some  things,  at  least,  quite  out  of  the  ordinary.  In 
China,  those  who  can  afford  to  do  so,  get  their  coffins 
years  before  death;  and  in  many  homes,  one  may  see 
them  stored  away  ready  for  use.  Not  long  ago  I  was 
visiting  one  of  our  outstations,  and  arrived  at  the  place 
on  the  very  morning  one  of  our  believers  died.  His 
wife  came  to  me  in  great  .sorrow,  .saying  the  man  had 
been  too  poor  to  buy  a  coffin,  but  if  I  would  a.ssure  her 
neighbor  that  I  would  provide  another,  she  could  bor- 
row a  coffin  for  this  occasion.  I  told  her  I  would  stand 
good  for  it,  so  the  man  was  buried  in  a  borrowed 
coffin.    The  other  sermon,  I  preached  in  a  magistrate's 


296  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

yamen,  or  rather,  in  the  jail  part  of  the  yamen.  One 
of  our  brethren  had  been  put  in  the  prison  because  of 
a  family  feud  in  which  he  was  not  concerned,  and  had 
died  there.  I  took  advantage  of  the  occasion  to  tell 
the  officials  and  the  soldiers  of  the  time  now  right 
upon  us  when  all  must  give  account  of  their  actions  to 
the  coming  King.  As  I  spoke  of  judgment  come,  I 
thought  of  Paul  before  Felix,  and  I  have  reason  to 
believe  that  some  "trembled." 

DRIVEN  FROM   HOME 

While  I  was  home  on  furlough  in  1916,  one  of  our 
Chinese  preachers  died.  Shortly  before  his  death,  his 
girl-wife  gave  birth  to  a  baby  girl.  She  was  driven 
from  home  by  his  heathen  parents,  who  said  her  hus- 
band had  died  because  her  baby  was  a  girl  instead  of 
a  boy.  She  has  now  placed  the  little  one  in  a  Chris- 
tian home,  and  she  is  in  Canton  Bethel  Girls'  School, 
studying  to  be  a  Bible  woman. 

Twice  during  our  absence,  Wai  Chow  was  sur- 
rounded by  rebel  soldiers.  Our  homes  were  right  in 
the  firing  line,  and  two  cannon  balls  went  through  the 
roofs  of  our  mission  homes,  and  hundreds  of  rifle  balls 
were  imbedded  in  the  walls.  We  feel  indeed  thankful 
to  return,  and  find  nothing  missing.  The  faithful 
Chinese  caretaker,  with  God's  blessing,  kept  every- 
thing securely. 

RIVER   PIRATES 

During  the  years  I  have  worked  in  China,  I  have 
had  several  experiences  with  Chinese  pirates  on  the 
East  River.  One  such  experience  occurred  just  after 
the  close  of  our  general  meeting  in  the  spring  of  1915. 
I  was  returning  to  Wai   Chow  from  Shanghai.  ,  In 


FROM  MANY  PENS  297 

Hongkong  I  met  Brother  Floyd  Ashbaugh;  and  as  he 
had  to  wait  several  days  for  a  boat  for  Manila,  I  in- 
vited him  to  take  a  trip  with  me  into  interior  China, 
and  to  visit  at  Wai  Chow.  For  some  months,  I  had 
kept  all  my  clothing  and  valuables  at  Canton;  but  as 
we  went  through  Canton,  I  took  them  on  the  boat  for 
Wai  Chow,  having  heard  that  that  country  was  a  bit 
more  quiet.  We  were  going  along  nicely  the  next  day, 
when  all  at  once  a  deal  of  shooting  took  place  on  the 
deck  over  our  heads.  The  boat  stopped,  and  I  thought 
to  myself,  "Everything  is  gone  again." 

Soon  some  of  the  crew  came  to  our  cabin,  and  said 
a  number  of  men  had  compelled  them  to  stop  the  boat, 
pretending  to  wait  there  for  an  official.    We  all  knew 
that  there  was  no  official  in  that  desert  country,  and 
that  they  were  merely  holding  the  boat  till  a  land  force 
should  arrive  to  help  them.     The  officers  said  if  we 
foreigners  could  not  get  them  off,  all  was  lost.     I  told 
Brother  Ashbaugh  to  follow  me;  and  with  a  prayer  in 
our  hearts,  we  went  boldly  up  to  the  deck,  and  sur- 
prised the  robbers,  who  had  not  known  that  any  for- 
eigners were  on  board.     I  pretended  to  be  angry  at 
them  for  stopping  the  boat,  and  with  my  hands  in  my 
pockets,  and  good  Brother  Ashbaugh  at  my  back,  I 
asked  them  what  they  meant  by  shooting  around  that 
way,  like  a  lot  of  wild  men.    They  told  me,  as  they  had 
told  the  captain,  that  they  were  holding  the  boat  for 
an  official.    I  laughed  at  them, —  a  laugh  has  power  in 
it   sometimes, —  and   asked   them    for   their   evidence, 
which  I  knew  they  did  not  have.     Then   I  turned  to 
the  captain,  and  said:  "You  start  this  boat  at  once.     I 
have  no  time  to  wait  for  anybody."     I   watched  the 
men  closely  to  see  what  they  would  do.     It  was  all 


I 


298  WllH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

"bluff"  on  our  part.  Shortly  they  said,  "If  you  are 
going  on,  let  us  off."  This  we  were  only  too  happy 
to  do,  and  hurried  away  as  quickly  as  possible. 

My  first  experience  with  river  pirates  occurred 
shortly  after  I  went  to  China.  We  arrived  November 
14,  1909,  and  stayed  three  months  in  Shanghai;  then 
we  left  for  our  field  of  labor  —  the  Hakka  land  of 
South  China.  (Not  being  able  to  rent  any  Chinese 
houses  in  Wai  Chow,  we  were  kept  out  of  the  field  un- 
til the  money  arrived  with  which  to  buy  land  and 
build  our  mission  homes.  We  have  the  first  houses 
built  from  the  large  fund  raised  a  few  years  ago  for 
that  purpose.)  In  the  winter  of  1911,  I  started  from 
Wai  Chow  to  go  to  Canton  for  an  order  of  freight 
from  the  United  States.  On  my  return  trip  up  the 
river  with  this  freight,  I  passed  through  my  hardest 
experience  with  river  pirates. 

Two  other  missionaries  —  Germans  of  the  Berlin 
Mission  —  were  the  only  foreigners  besides  me  on 
board  the  ship.  We  were  making  good  time,  and  I  was 
anxious  to  get  home,  for  I  knew  that  the  women  of  the 
station  were  alone.  It  was  almost  noon.  The  three 
of  us  were  walking  the  deck,  when  crack !  crack !  crack ! 
came  the  report  of  many  guns.  Rifle  balls  whizzed  all 
about  us.  One  of  the  Germans  was  hit  in  the  head  at 
the  first  shot,  and  dropped  on  the  deck.  Though  fortu- 
nately not  hit,  I  also  dropped  flat.  The  robbers  kept  on 
shooting  until  the  boat  stopped.  We  were  in  a  very 
narrow  place  in  the  river.  When  the  shooting  ceased, 
I  looked  up,  and  saw  the  robbers  lined  up  and  down  the 
bank  of  the  river  for,  I  should  say,  a  half  mile.  They 
had  been  hidden  in  the  rice  fields  along  the  shore. 
Now  they  were  shouting  orders  like  madmen;  and  as 


FROM   MANY  PENS 


299 


we  moved  over  near  the  shore,  they  came  out  —  or 
rather  part  of  them  —  in  small  boats,  and  boarded  our 
ship.  The  rest  stood  vi^atch  on  shore.  I  had  never 
seen  such  wicked  looking  men  before,  nor  have  I  since. 
The  thieves  began  looting  the  boat.  Immediately  I 
went   down  to   my   cabin.      Presently   one  big   fellow 


A   CHINESE   IiF:EI»  TO   MISSION    PROPERTY 


opened  my  cabin  door,  and  pointed  a  gun  at  me.  I 
could  not  understand  Chinese  very  well  then,  but  I 
tried  to  obey  quickly.  One  after  another  came,  and 
they  kept  me  with  my  hand.s  in  the  air  for  more  than 
an  hour.  Sometimes  they  would  cock  their  guns,  and 
I  felt  that  my  end  had  come.  Each  crowd  stripi)ed 
me  down  a  little  closer.  They  took  my  watch,  money, 
overcoat,  undercoat,  shoes,  hat,  bedding,  baggage, — 
everything  but  my  Bible,  which  I  had  been  reading. 


300  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

Finally  they  left.  I  ordered  the  boat  to  return  at 
once  to  Canton  with  the  wounded  missionary,  and  did 
what  I  could  for  him  on  the  way.  He  had  me  write 
what  he  supposed  was  his  last  letter  to  his  family,  but 
he  recovered  in  the  hospital.  I  was  later  paid  for  my 
loss  in  full  by  the  Chinese  government.  These  things 
have  grown  more  common  to  us  since;  but  I  confess 
that  at  the  time,  the  episode  made  a  great  impression 
—  on  my  nerves  at  least. 

Shortly  after  that,  there  was  a  battle  one  night  in 
front  of  our  house,  between  soldiers  and  robbers;  and 
a  little  later,  another  all  around  our  house.  We  are 
indeed  thankful  for  a  loving  Father's  constant  care. 


The  Children  of  China 

Adelaide  Bee  Evans 

To  tell  all  that  there  is  to  tell  about  the  children  of 
China  would  take  a  whole  little  library  of  books,  and 
very  interesting  books  they  would  be,  too. 

There  are  so  many  children  in  China!  Every  year, 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  them  die  —  no  one  knows 
how  many;  still  there  are  millions  left, —  children  of 
well-to-do  parents,  whose  fathers  and  mothers  love  them 
and  are  proud  of  them ;  children  of  poorer  homes,  who 
work  in  little  shops  or  are  apprenticed  to  some  trade; 
children  of  the  coolie  class,  who  will  grow  up  to  lives 
of  poverty  and  bitter  toil ;  city  children,  playing  in  the 
streets  and  alleys ;  river  children,  living  in  house  boats 
the  year  round,  and,  when  the  tide  is  low,  picking  up 
the  refuse  on  the  slimy  river  bed;  country  children, 
spending  their  lives  from  babyhood  to  old  age  in  some 
small,  hedge-inclosed  village,  going  out  to  the  fields 


FROM   MANY  PENS 


301 


with  the  early  light,  and  returning  when  the  day's 
work  is  finished;  and  we  must  not  forget  the  beggar 
children,  with  their  shrewd  devices  for  drawing  the 
reluctant  coppers  from  the  fingers  of  the  foreigners. 
Many  of  these  beggar  children,  in  Shanghai  at  least, 
are  plump,  and  rosy  (under  the  dirt),  and  well  fed. 
Begging  is  their  trade;  but  occasionally  one  meets  a 
child  whose  deformity  or  illness  is  made  to  serve  the 
purpose  of  his  clan, —  a  child  actually  suffering  made 


ALL  ABOARD 


302  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

to  beg  on  the  streets, —  and  this  is  a  sight  to  sadden 
the  heart. 

So  many  children  —  some  with  fairer  skins  than 
others,  and  big  dark  eyes  that  look  so  solemnly  at  the 
foreigner;  others  with  smaller  eyes,  twinkling  with 
mischief,  or  smiling  in  friendly  response  to  a  cheerful 
greeting;  glad  children,  sad  children,  clean  children 
(a  few),  and  dirty  children;  and  most  to  be  pitied  of 
all,  perhaps,  the  poor  little  slave  children  —  uncombed, 
uncared  for,  utterly  unloved,  and  made  to  toil  from 
morning  till  night. 

In  the  warm  weather,  many  little  ones  are  frequently 
bitten  by  mosquitoes  and  other  pests,  and  the  ever- 
present  germs  find  a  ready  lodging  place  in  their  ten- 
der skins,  with  the  result  that  terrible  sores  often 
disfigure  the  little  brown  faces  and  bodies.  Frequently 
the  whole  head  is  covered  with  dreadful  sores,  which, 
if  they  heal,  leave  scars  where  the  hair  never  grows. 
With  the  custom  of  cutting  the  hair,  which  has  now 
come  into  vogue,  there  will,  we  hope,  be  fewer  little 
boys  thus  disfigured. 

The  children  of  China  love  bright  colors,  and  on  the 
great  New  Year's  holiday,  they  are  clad  in  the 
brightest  and  gayest  garments  their  parents  can  pro- 
cure. The  boys  wear  short  jackets,  and  long  trousers 
reaching  to  the  ankles.  The  little  girls  wear  trousers, 
too,  shaped  a  little  differently  from  those  worn  by  the 
boys,  and  sometimes  trimmed  around  the  bottom. 
Their  jackets  are  longer  than  those  worn  by  boys.  In 
the  winter,  people  who  can  afford  it  buy  cotton  to  pad 
their  children's  clothes.  Often  the  little  ones  wear  so 
many  of  these  wadded  garments  that  they  can  hardly 
walk.      People   who   have   more   money   get   fur-lined 


FROM  MANY  PENS  303 

coats  for  their  children,  and  these  are  light  in  weight 
and  very  warm  and  comfortable. 

Even  the  babies  wear  little  trousers  and  jackets. 
When  they  are  very  tiny,  they  are  wrapped  up  snugly, 
with  their  arms  folded  down  by  their  sides.  A  young 
Chinese  girl  told  me  that  the  reason  for  this  was  that 
if  the  arms  were  not  thus  held  down,  the  babies  would 
grow  up  to  be  noisy  and  rough,  "arms  all  waving 
around" ;  but  if  the  arms  were  tied  down  for  a  little 
while,  the  babies  would  be  quiet  and  sedate  children 
when  they  were  older.  However  this  may  be,  it  is  un- 
deniably true  that  the  children  of  China  are,  as  a  rule, 
far  more  quiet  than  American  children. 

Just  the  other  day,  I  received  a  picture  of  a  dear 
little  Chinese  baby.  His  father  and  mother  are  Chris- 
tians, and  they  keep  the  baby  clean,  and  will  do  all 
they  can  to  bring  him  up  well.  He  is  a  little  "better 
baby"  of  new  China,  and  looks  plump  enough  and 
bright  enough  to  deserve  a  medal. 

Chinese  parents  have  many  customs  in  regard  to 
naming  their  children.  Sometimes  those  who  are  very 
poor  do  not  name  them,  even  the  boys,  at  all;  again, 
they  call  them  by  names  that  have  a  bad  meaning. 
One  little  lad  who  came  to  the  mission  school  in  Honan 
had  always  been  called  by  a  name  that  means  Beans; 
and  one  of  his  first  requests  on  his  arrival  was  that 
now  he  might  have  a  .school  name.  Other  parents  give 
their  children  names  that  have  good  meanings.  Wong 
Foh  Sang  is  one  little  boy's  name.  His  father's  name 
is  Wong  Sien  Sen,  or  Mr.  Wong.  Foh  means  happi- 
ness, and  Sanff  means  life;  so  this  boy's  name  is  really 
Happy  Life  Wong.  Mr.  Lee,  a  Christian  Chinese  man 
in    Shanghai,   calls    his    little   son    Kao   Wang,    which 


304  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

means  High  Hope.  A  little  girl  may  be  called  by  a 
name  meaning  something  as  sweet  as  Spring  Fra- 
grance, or  Pleasant  Morning,  or  Happy  Moonlight. 

Many  Chinese  fathers  and  mothers  love  their  chil- 
dren dearly,  and  hold  them  in  their  arms  for  hours  at 
a  time  when  they  are  small,  playing  with  them,  and 
carrying  them  up  and  down  the  road  in  the  evening 
when  the  day's  work  is  over.  Often  a  poor  Chinese 
mother,  with  bound  feet,  goes  staggering  along  carry- 
ing her  seven-year-old  son,  who  surely  looks  much 
more  able  to  trot  along  on  his  own  sturdy  little  legs 
than  his  mother  does  to  carry  him. 

Sometimes  the  mothers  bring  their  plump,  smiling 
babies  to  the  mission  compound,  and  offer  to  give  them 
to  the  women  of  the  compound  to  bring  up.  This  is 
only  when  the  parents  are  poor ;  when  they  have  money 
to  care  for  their  children  and  educate  them,  they  prize 
them  highly.  One  day,  I  met  a  proud  grandfather  with 
twin  grandsons  about  twelve  years  old.  Pretty  young- 
sters they  were,  comparatively  clean,  and  very  bright- 
eyed.  The  old  man  could  speak  a  little  English,  and  he 
told  me  with  pride  that  the  boys  were  going  to  school  — 
they  would  have  an  education.  "That  is  the  great 
thing,"  he  said.  More  and  more,  too,  the  girls  of  the 
better  classes  are  going  to  school,  and  learning  how  to 
help  the  children  of  their  own  land. 

China  does  not  have  such  schools  as  there  are  in 
Christian  lands.  Only  a  very  few  out  of  the  millions 
of  children  can  go  to  school  at  all.  Some  learn  only  a 
few  characters;  others  go  longer,  and  learn  a  little 
more.  Those  who  have  opportunity  to  continue  their 
studies,  often  prove  excellent  students;  and  in  some 
lines,  they  particularly  excel. 


FROM   MANY  PENS  305 

The  wise  men  of  China  are  anxious  that  the  children 
of  that  great  republic  shall  have  an  opportunity  to 
study,  and  more  schools  are  opened  every  year.  There 
are  many  mission  schools,  too,  where  the  children  and 
the  youth  receive  excellent  training. 

Near  one  place  where  we  lived  in  Shanghai,  there 
is  a  boys'  school,  where  perhaps  a  hundred  boys  attend 
every  day.  Early  in  the  morning,  they  began  to  pass 
our  gate,  and  they  would  stay  till  evening.  If  the 
amount  of  noise  they  made  in  the  schoolroom  was  fair 
indication  of  their  progress,  they  must  have  advanced 
very  fast  indeed.  They  all  wore  a  sort  of  uniform, — 
a  long  coat,  a  stiff-visored  dark  blue  cap  (which  they 
kept  on  their  heads  all  day  long), —  and  carried  a 
school  bag  containing  their  books.  A  serious  looking 
lot  of  boys  they  were  —  it  is  a  great  thing  to  be  set 
apart  in  a  Chinese  family  to  enjoy  the  privilege  of 
gaining  an  education. 

Not  far  from  this  boys'  school  was  a  kindergarten, 
where  the  dear  little  boys  and  girls  just  past  babyhood 
were  gathered  in,  and  had  at  least  a  glimpse  of 
brighter  things  than  come  into  most  of  their  sordid 
homes.  The  teacher  was  a  sweet,  quiet  Chinese  girl, 
and  it  was  a  pleasant  thing  to  see  her  playing  the 
kindergarten  games  with  these  little  ones. 

In  the  schoolbooks  of  China,  the  children  study  the 
simple  writings  of  their  great  teacher,  Confucius,  who 
lived  about  twenty-five  hundred  years  ago.  Here  is 
one  of  these  stories: 

"During  the  Northern  Sung  dynasty,  there  lived  a 
little  girl  whose  name  was  Chen  Sing  Chao.  One  day 
when  she  was  playing  with  a  company  of  children,  one 
of  them  happened  to  fall  into  a  large  jar  full  of  water. 


UO 


306 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


All  the  other  boys  and  girls,  except  Chen  Sing  Chao, 
were  too  frightened  to  know  what  to  do,  so  they  all 
ran  away.  She,  taking  a  stone,  broke  the  jar,  and 
saved  her  playmate's  life  by  letting  the  water  escape. 
Every  one  who  heard  of  the  circumstance  admired  the 
girl's  uncommon  wisdom  and  presence  of  mind." 


PORCH   OF  THE  TEMPLE  BEFORE  THE   TOMB  OF   CONFUCIUS   AT 
CHIFU,  HIS  BIRTHPLACE 

There  is  much  that  I  should  like  to  tell  you  about 
the  children  of  China;  but  as  I  said  at  first,  it  would 
take  many  books  to  tell  you  all  about  them.  There  is 
one  thing,  however,  that  I  should  like  to  have  you  re- 
member,—  they  are  just  like  the  children  in  your  own 
land  in  many  ways.  They  like  sweetmeats,  and  games, 
and  pretty  clothes ;  they  have  bodies  that  suffer  pain ; 
they  have  hearts  that  know  what  it  is  to  be  lonely  and 


FROM   MANY  PENS  307 

sad;  and  they  love  those  who  love  them  and  are  kind 
to  them. 

But  in  this  they  are  different:  They  do  not  know  the 
gospel  story.  Should  we  not  be  willing  to  deny  our- 
selves a  few  of  the  good  things  we  enjoy,  in  order  to 
send  teachers  to  tell  them  about  the  Saviour,  and  to 
teach  them  to  read  the  Bible  and  other  good  books? 


A  Village  Home  Near  Shanghai 

Adelaide  Bee  Evans 

It  is  Sabbath  afternoon  in  early  spring,  and  we  will 
take  a  little  stroll  through  the  fields  that  lie  east  of  our 
mission  station.    We  walk  single  file  along  the  narrow 
path,  or  two  by  two  over  some  wider  footpath.    By  and 
by  we  reach  a  little  village,  and  the  children  call  out 
their  none  too  complimentary  greetings.    We  pause  to 
look  inside  a  humble  home,  the  one  room  of  which  is 
quite  open  to  our  gaze.     The  floor  is  of  earth,  and 
covered  with  litter;  chickens  run  in  and  out;  all  the 
household  furniture,  including  an  outworn  cradle,   is 
jumbled  together  without  any  attempt  at  order.     The 
nearest  approach  to  adornment  is  the  crude  table  on 
the  wall  that  faces  the  street.    On  it  are  a  few  cheap 
ornaments  and   incense  jars,  and  above  it  hang  the 
ancestral  tablets.    An  old,  old  grandmother  is  spinning 
cotton  thread ;  and  a  baby  is  hanging  by  its  arms  in  the 
"baby   tender,"  which   looks   more   like   a  large,   old- 
fashioned  wooden  churn  than  anything  else.     About 
halfway  down,  the  churn  is  partitioned,  so  there  may 
be  a  place  for  the  baby  to  sit,—  without  falling  over,— 
and  later  to  stand  up  in,  clutching  the  edges  with  his 
fingers. 


308 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


A  hopeless  home;  for  its  members  have  never  heard 
the  gospel.  But  the  entrance  of  the  Word  will  give 
light,  and  bring  an  infinite  change  for  the  better,  even 
in  such  homes  of  penury  as  this. 


ONE  OF  THE  MULTITUDE  OF  ANCESTRAL  TABLETS 


A  Heathen  Home  in  Szechuan 

Mrs.  Eva  Allum 

How  would  some  of  our  busy  housewives  enjoy 
housekeeping  in  a  home  where  there  were  no  washing 
days,  ironing  days,  or  baking  days;  no  carpets  to 
sweep  or  floors  to  wax  or  oil;  no  windows  to  clean,  or 
curtains  to  wash  and  hang;  no  silverware  or  glass  to 
polish?  Wouldn't  housekeeping  be  easy  with  all  these 
eliminated? 

On  the  other  hand,  how  would  you  enjoy  having 
only  two  dresses,  both  of  coarse,  dark  blue  goods,  one 
to  wear  while  the  other  is  being  washed;  rice  three 
times  a  day,  every  day  in  the  week;  beaten  earth  floors 
entirely  bare  of  carpets,  linoleum,  or  even  boards;  no 
windows,  except  tiny  openings  in  the  wall,  with  a  few 
bars  to  keep  out  intruders;  chopsticks  and  bowls  in 
place  of  silverware  and  china;  no  decorations  on  the 
wall  except  festoons  of  soot-laden  cobwebs;  no  maga- 
zines or  books;  nothing  to  make  home  bright  and  at- 
tractive? 

This  is  as  it  is  in  thousands,  yes,  millions,  of  Chinese 
homes.  Directly  opposite  us  in  this  city  is  an  ordinary 
Chinese  family,  living  in  two  rooms  with  mud  walls 
and  mud  floors.  This  is  a  family  of  four, —  the 
grandfather,  his  son,  his  daughter-in-law,  and  a  little 
grandson.  The  front  room  serves  as  a  shop;  and  at 
daylight,  the  shutters,  which  are  the  upper  half  of  the 
front  wall,  are  taken  down  and  placed  across  some 
benches  to  form  ta))les  or  stalls.  On  these,  a  number 
of  articles  are  exhibited  for  sale, —  peanuts  arranged 
in  handfuls  (you  get  thirty  handfuls  for  one  cent  gold), 
lengths  of  sugar  cane,  pomeloes,  matches,  dried  tobacco 

(309) 


310 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


leaves,  cigarettes,  grass  shoes,  straw  hats,  string,  eggs, 
pipe  lighters,  and  various  other  odds  and  ends.  The 
old  man  and  his  son  attend  to  any  early  customers, 
while  the  daughter-in-law  prepares  the  breakfast  of 
rice  and  a  bowl  or  two  of  relish. 


MOVING  TIME  IN   CHINA 


After  breakfast,  the  morning's  housework  is  soon 
finished.  There  are  only  six  bowls  and  four  pairs  of 
chopsticks  to  wash;  then  the  large  rice  cooker  is 
scrubbed  with  a  brush  made  of  split  bamboo,  the  earth 
floor  is  swept  in  the  center,  and  the  chairs  are  wiped 
off.  If  the  weather  is  fine,  the  mother  may  do  any 
washing  that  is  waiting.  As  the  few  pieces  are  mostly 
coarse  blue  cloth,  they  need  no  boiling  or  bluing,  and 


FROM   MANY  PENS  311 

water  strained  from  the  rice  is  used  to  stiffen  any  that 
need  starching.  The  washing  must  be  strung  on 
bamboo  poles  across  the  front  of  the  shop,  as  this 
home,  like  the  majority  of  homes  in  this  city,  has  no 
courtyard,  and  the  only  outlet  is  on  the  street.  Her 
household  duties  done,  she  then  helps  in  the  shop,  ar- 
ranging peanuts  in  handfuls,  peeling  and  quartering 
pomeloes,  weaving  grass  shoes,  or  braiding  straw  hats. 
She  has  also  to  care  for  the  small  boy.  Any  spare 
minutes  are  used  in  sewing  and  embroidery;  for  she 
must  make  shoes,  stockings,  and  hats  for  the  family, 
as  well  as  cut  and  make  their  garments,  and  pad  com- 
forts for  the  winter.  Not  many  idle  moments  are  hers, 
although  many  of  her  less  industrious  neighbors  visit 
and  gossip  over  their  needlework. 

The  old  man  attends  to  the  sprinkling  of  the  tobacco 
leaves  on  the  stand  by  filling  his  mouth  with  water 
and  ejecting  it  over  the  leaves ;  then  he  neatly  piles  the 
boxes  of  cigarettes  and  matches,  his  shaking  hands 
finding  it  no  small  task  to  get  the  boxes  just  where  he 
wants  them.  He  then  sits  down  to  his  string-making 
stand,  which  is  about  four  feet  high,  with  six  bamboo 
pins  around  the  top,  and  one  reel  of  cotton  suspended 
from  each  pin.  He  throws  one  reel  across  another,  and 
keeps  crossing  the  reels  in  turn,  the  finished  string 
being  similar  to  the  tubular  cord  we  used  to  make  in 
our  younger  days  by  knitting  on  four  pins  in  a  spool. 
He  makes  three  or  four  yards  of  this  in  a  day,  and  it 
sells  for  about  one  cent  gold  a  yard.  But  he  is  happy 
doing  his  share  toward  the  support  of  the  family.  His 
son  earns  about  ten  cents  a  day  as  a  sedan  chair  bearer. 

Because  of  their  diligence  and  economy,  this  family 
are  able  to  "go  over  the  days"  without  actual  want. 


312 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


They  are  a  poor  family,  but  there  are  thousands  of 
poorer  ones  in  this  city.  This  family  is  hardly  repre- 
sentative of  those  around;  for  in  the  surrounding 
homes,  gambling,  wine  drinking,  and  quarreling  are 
part  of  the  daily  life,  while  the  women  spend  a  large 
part  of  their  time  gossiping  with  their  neighbors. 

We  find  that  the  inhabitants  of  Szechuan  are  most 
superstitious,  and  have  a  deep-rooted  faith  in  their 
idol  worship.  If  Paul  had  come  to  this  field,  he  might 
well  have  said,  "I  perceive  that  in  all  things  ye  are  too 
superstitious."  Their  worship  for  the  most  part  is 
for  mundane  purposes,  and  seldom  for  moral  or  spirit- 
ual development.  Once  a  month  the  family  described 
above  light  several  candles  and  small  sticks  of  incense, 


CHINESE  JUNKS  ON  THE  RIVER  NEAR  SHANGHAI 


FROM   MANY  PENS  313 

and  place  them  in  the  cracks  of  their  stand,  fire  off  a 
string  or  two  of  firecrackers,  and  burn  some  sheets 
of  paper  —  and  consider  their  duty  toward  the  gods  as 
done  for  that  month.  There  is  no  communion  with 
God  in  prayer,  no  yearning  to  partake  of  His  moral 
and  spiritual  nature  and  share  in  His  holiness,  no  look- 
ing for  the  blessed  hope  which  is  ours.  How  thankful 
we  are  that  the  light  has  shone  into  several  homes, 
and  is  giving  "the  knowledge  of  the  glory  of  God,"  and 
of  His  soon  coming! 


Teaching  the  Gospel  Through  Chinese  Characters 

F.  A.  Ai.LUM 

The  characters  of  the  Chinese  language  are  ideo- 
graphic. That  is,  they  are  pictures  of  the  thought  they 
are  intended  to  convey.  There  are  said  to  be  six 
classes  of  characters.  One  of  these  is  called  hiiei  ih 
dy  dzi,  which  literally  means  "think  of  the  thought 
characters."  It  is  with  this  class  of  characters  that  we 
will  deal. 

A  character  is  usually  made  up  of  two  parts.  The 
more  important  part  is  called  the  radical,  and  gives  a 
clue  to  the  meaning;  the  other  part  is  phonetic,  and 
gives  a  clue  to  the  sound. 

Some  one  has  said  that  "the  Chinese  language  was 
invented  V)y  the  devil  to  prevent  the  easy  spread  of  the 
gospel."  However,  from  the  characters  herein  used, 
it  will  be  .seen  that  this  is  not  so,  but  that,  on  the 
contrary,  the  ancient  Chinese  characters  can  be  used 
to  teach  in  a  forceful  way  the  fundamental  truths  of 
the  gospel. 


314  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

From  Fu  Hsi,  the  first  of  the  "five  monarchs,"  who, 
according  to  Chinese  records,  lived  nearly  three 
thousand  years  before  Christ,  the  Chinese  date  the 
ceremony  of  marriage,  the  slaying  of  animals  for 
clothing,  writing,  and  the  commencement  of  learning, 
also  music.  It  is  stated,  too,  on  high  authority,  that 
at  that  time,  the  Chinese  did  not  worship  idols,  but 
that  they  worshiped  the  one  true  God,  idol  worship 
being  introduced  at  a  much  later  period.  Certain  it  is 
that  the  Chinese  characters  give  abundant  evidence 
that  they  are  not  of  satanic  origin,  but  that,  on  the 
contrary,  God  has  not  left  Himself  without  a  witness 
even  in  this  ancient  language. 

With  these  thoughts  in  mind,  let  us  now  proceed 
to  examine  that  wonderful  word,  "righteousness." 
Righteousness  by  faith  is  the  fundamental  thought  of 
the  gospel;  for  without  it,  no  man  can  see  God.  The 
Chinese  character  for  "righteousness"  (see  Fig.  1)  is 
made  up  of  two  characters.  The  first  of  these  is  the 
radical  of  the  character,  and  is  the  word  for  "sheep" 
(see  Fig.  2).  The  second  word  is  placed  under  the 
"sheep"  character,  and  is  the  character  for  the  pro- 
noun "I"  or  "me"  (see  Fig.  3).  Thus  "righteousness" 
in  the  Chinese  language  literally  means,  "I  under  the 
sheep,  or  lamb"  (see  Fig.  1).  This  thought  readily 
suggests  that  beautiful  text,  "Behold  the  Lamb  of 
God,  which  taketh  away  the  sin  of  the  world"  (or, 
personally,  my  sin).    John  1:29.     See  also  Isa.  53:7. 

A  further  lesson  can  be  learned  from  the  position 
these  two  words  occupy  to  make  up  the  character 
"righteousness."  The  precise  order  must  be  main- 
tained; for  if  the  pronoun  "I"  were  placed  on  top  of 
the  word  "sheep,"  no  Chinese  would  read  that  word  as 


FROM   MANY  PENS  315 

"righteousness."  In  fact,  to  him,  it  would  have  no 
meaning  at  all.  In  like  manner,  no  Christian  will  ever 
be  taken,  or  read  (for  we  are  the  only  Bibles  some 
people  will  ever  read),  for  a  true  Christian,  who  does 
not  exalt  the  Lamb  of  God,  putting  "I"  or  "self"  out 
of  sight,  or  under  the  "Lamb."  In  other  words,  "He 
must  increase,  but  I  must  decrease"  (John  3:30); 
and  then  "I  [Christ],  if  I  be  lifted  up,  .  .  .  will  draw 
all  men  unto  Me."    John  12:  32. 

Another  character  which  shows  that  the  word 
"sheep,"  when  associated  with  other  characters,  usually 
has  a  good  meaning,  is  the  word  for  "good"  (see  Fig. 
4).  This  word  is  made  up  of  two  characters.  The 
top  one  is  "sheep"  (see  Fig.  5),  and  under  the  "sheep" 
character  is  the  character  for  "words"  (see  Fig.  6). 
Thus  a  good  man  is  one  who  is  lamblike  in  his 
bearing,  and  his  words  are  in  harmony  with  his  lamb- 
like character.  This  is  in  distinct  contrast  to  the 
figure  used  in  Rev.  13:  11,  which  is  understood  to 
represent  apostasy,  and  is  a  sheep  speaking  with  the 
voice  of  the  dragon. 

Tho.se  who  understand  the  prophecy  of  Rev.  13:  11 
as  applying  in  a  particular  way  to  the  United  States 
of  America  will  be  surprised  to  know  that  the  character 
which  has  been  selected  to  represent  that  country  in 
Chinese  is  the  character  mei,  which  means  "good" 
(Fig.  7).  This  is  made  up  of  two  characters.  One  is 
the  word  "sheep"  (.see  Fig.  8)  ;  and  the  other,  which 
is  placed  under  the  word  "sheep,"  is  the  character  for 
"great"  (.see  Fig.  9).  Thus  the  character  that  .stands 
for  America  in  Chinese  means  literally  "a  great 
sheep,"  and  thus  reveals  the  peaceful  nature  of  the 
principles  on  which  the  American  republic  was  founded. 


316  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

To  represent  the  idea  of  "falseness"  (see  Fig.  10), 
the  Chinese  use  a  character  which  has  on  one  side  the 
word  for  "man"  (see  Fig.  11),  and  on  the  other  side 
the  word  for  "sheep"  (see  Fig.  12).  Thus,  for  a  man 
to  pretend  to  be  a  "sheep"  when  he  is  not  really  so 
harmless,  is  the  Chinese  idea  of  falseness  or  pretense. 
It  makes  one  think  of  the  Saviour's  words  about  the 
wolf  in  sheep's  clothing. 

Let  us  now  examine  the  words  for  "Holy  Spirit." 
These  are  important  words ;  for  it  is  only  through  the 
mighty  agency  of  the  Holy  Spirit  that  sin  can  be  over- 
come and  the  sinful  man  become  righteous. 

The  word  "holy"  (see  Fig,  13)  is  made  up  of  three 
distinct  characters.  The  first  is  the  word  for  "ear" 
(see  Fig.  14)  ;  the  second,  the  word  for  "mouth" 
(see  Fig.  15)  ;  and  the  third,  according  to  the  ancient 
form  of  writing,  is  the  character  for  "hand"  (see  Fig. 
16).  An  intelligent  Chinese  teacher  who  is  not  a 
Christian  told  me  that  the  meaning  of  this  combina- 
tion of  characters  is  that  a  man  who  is  truly  "holy" 
is  one  whose  ear  hears  only  that  which  is  good,  whose 
mouth  speaks  only  that  which  is  good,  and  whose  hand 
does  only  that  which  is  good.  What  better  definition 
of  holiness  can  be  found  anywhere?  To  listen  to  truth 
is  not  enough,  to  preach  truth  is  not  enough;  we  must 
be  doers  of  the  Word. 

The  w^ord  "spirit"  (see  Fig.  17)  has  for  its  radical 
the  character  for  "rain"  (see  Fig.  18)  ;  and  under  the 
"rain"  character,  the  word  for  "mouth"  (see  Fig.  19) 
is  written  thrice;  under  these  three  mouths,  the  word 
"work"  (see  Fig.  20)  is  written;  and  finally,  to  com- 
plete the  word,  the  character  for  "man"  (see  Fig.  21) 
is  used  twice.    Thus  the  word  "spirit"  in  the  Chinese 


#  ^  i  #•  ^ 

iywUOUSKL.j      SHEEP  i    ^i£  COOD.  SHEEP.  WORDS. 


'foot  SHEEP.  GREAT.  FALSENESS.        MAH.  SHEEP. 


?4-t7-f 


*oXA 


HOU  EAR.        !«OUTH.     HANO  SPIRIT.     RAIN.  MOUTH.  WORK    MAN 

:-/  /■  Zv  ?.i'  ;.b  x7 

*■     PXACE.  ROOF  WOMAN.  HOME.  ROOF.  PIGS. 


+    a«9|=l 


^tREAF  NOISE  CART.  BRIGHT  SUN  MOON 

WIGMDNE.SS         uniY  HFART  SIN.  NET.  WRONG 


THIRTY-EIGHT  CHINESE  CHARACTERS 
See  uccompanyInK  text   for  deACrlptiun. 


(317) 


318  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

contains  a  stirring  lesson  to  those  who  are  acquainted 
with  the  Bible  and  understand  the  operations  of  the 
Holy  Spirit.  According  to  the  Bible,  the  people  of  God 
are  to  look  for  a  special  outpouring  of  the  Holy  Spirit, 
before  the  end  of  the  world  comes,  to  ripen  the  harvest. 
This  is  termed  the  "latter  rain."  The  radical  of  the 
character,  being  "rain,"  can  be  used  to  indicate  the 
source  and  the  abundance  of  the  supply.  The  three 
mouths  also  signify  the  abundance  of  the  gift,  and  sug- 
gest the  receptive  attitude  that  the  Christian  should 
maintain.  The  word  "work"  denotes  that  when  the 
Spirit  is  received  in  all  its  fullness,  it  will  do  its  work. 
And  the  object  of  the  worl^  it  does  it  clearly  shown  in 
the  word  for  "man,"  which  is  written  twice,  thus  sug- 
gesting that  the  Holy  Spirit  will  do  its  work  not  only 
upon  the  outer  man,  but  also  upon  the  inner  man,  and 
the  whole  man  will  become  holy  in  the  sense  given 
above. 

The  character  for  "peace"  is  a  very  suggestive  one 
(see  Fig.  22).  The  radical  is  the  word  for  "roof" 
(see  Fig.  23).  Under  the  "roof"  is  the  word  for 
"woman"  (see  Fig.  24).  Thus,  according  to  the 
Chinese  idea,  peace  can  be  maintained  only  when  the 
woman  attends  strictly  to  home  duties.  This  is  in 
keeping  with  Paul's  advice  that  the  young  women  be 
"discreet,  chaste,  keepers  at  home,  good,  .  .  .  that  the 
Word  of  God  be  not  blasphemed."  Titus  2:  5.  It  also 
suggests  that  woman  amid  the  many  duties  of  the 
home  can  have  the  peace  of  God  abiding  in  her  heart, 
and  thus  keep  the  peace  of  the  home. 

The  word  "home"  (see  Fig.  25)  is  very  dear  to  the 
heart  of  the  Occidental.  In  the  Chinese,  the  top  part 
of  this  character  is  "roof"   (see  Fig.  26),  and  under 


FROM  MANY  PENS  319 

the  "roof"  character  is  the  word  for  "pigs"  (see  Fig. 
27),  the  idea  being  that  the  home  that  is  well  supplied 
with  pigs  is  the  ideal  home.  The  writer  has  seen  as 
many  as  a  dozen  pigs  quartered  in  the  same  house  with 
the  family. 

The  character  hung,  which  means  a  "great  noise" 
(see  Fig.  28),  is  made  up  of  the  character  for  "cart" 
(see  Fig.  29)  used  thrice.  Three  Chinese  carts  on  a 
Chinese  road  do  indeed  make  a  dreadful  noise,  for  they 
have  no  springs. 

The  idea  of  "brightness"  (see  Fig.  30)  is  made  clear 
by  first  writing  the  character  for  "sun"  (see  Fig.  31), 
and  then  placing  the  word  for  "moon"  (see  Fig.  32) 
alongside  it,  the  inference  being  that  if  the  sun  and 
the  moon  were  both  shining  at  the  same  time,  it  would 
be  very  bright  indeed. 

The  word  "wickedness"  (see  Fig.  33)  has  for  its 
radical  the  word  "heart"  (see  Fig.  35),  thus  clearly 
indicating  the  source  of  all  wickedness.  Above  the 
word  "heart"  is  written  the  character  ya,  which  is  de- 
fined in  the  dictionary  as  ugly,  inferior,  secondary  (see 
Fig.  34).    Thus  wickedness  is  literally  an  "ugly  heart." 

In  conclusion,  let  us  examine  the  word  "sin"  (see 
Fig.  36).  This  word  is  composed  of  two  very  signifi- 
cant characters.  The  radical  is  the  word  for  "net" 
(see  Fig.  37).  Under  the  net  is  written  another 
character,  which  is  defined  as  "wrong"  (see  Fig.  38). 
Thus  we  learn  that  by  continuing  in  "wrong,"  we  fall 
into  Satan's  "net"  and  are  bound.  What  a  warning 
of  the  power  of  sin  is  contained  in  this  character! 


The  Dragon  Festival 

F.  E.  Stafforo 

In  May,  1914,  we  set  up  a  tent  made  of  mats  and 
bamboo  poles  in  the  town  of  Nantziang,  about  twelve 
miles  from  Shanghai,  and  held  a  profitable  series  of 
gospel  meetings.  The  last  week  for  the  meetings  was 
the  time  of  the  annual  dragon  festival,  the  fifth  day 
of  the  fifth  moon. 

Hundreds  of  the  country  people  came  from  miles 
around  to  Nantziang  to  see  the  dragon  boats;  and  be- 
ing in  town,  they  naturally  came  to  the  big  tent  to  see 
what  was  going  on.  So  the  attendance  at  the  meetings 
was  a  record  one  right  up  to  the  last  day. 

This  dragon  boat  festival  is  supposed  to  have  origi- 
nated some  2,500  years  ago,  when  one  of  the  court 
counselors,  named  Chu  Yuan,  incurred  the  displeasure 
of  the  emperor,  and  was  commanded  to  go  to  the  river 
and  fish  for  the  moon,  which  was  a  polite  way  of  ask- 
ing him  to  commit  suicide.  When  he  went  to  obey  the 
emperor's  command,  he  of  course  fell  into  the  water 
and  was  drowned. 

After  a  time,  Chu  Yuan's  wise  counsels  were  greatly 
missed.  The  empire  rapidly  declined  in  power,  and 
eventually  passed  to  a  new  dynasty.  The  former 
c(iunselor  was  then  remembered,  and  greatly  honored 
for  his  fidelity  to  the  emperor's  commands;  and  the 
people  all  over  the  empire  were  ordered  to  prepare 
boats  and  search  the  rivers  for  his  spirit  on  the  anni- 
versary of  his  death. 

From  that  time  till  now,  the  boats  have  gone  out 
every  year.  The  people  have  forgotten  what  they  are 
hunting  for,  and  the  day  has  become  a  mere  holiday. 
The  boats  in  use  at  the  present  time  are  made  with  a 

(320) 


1-3 
< 

> 

H 

m 
a 
fa 

a 
m 


2; 

o 
o 

K 

o 

< 

o 

E- 

H 
U 

CO 

2: 


21 


(321) 


322 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


dragon's  head  at  the  prow,  and  the  other  end  projects 
high  in  the  air,  like  the  dragon's  tail  sticking  up  out  of 
the  water.  The  boats  themselves  are  painted  in 
variegated  colors,  and  decorated  with  many  beautiful 


CANAL  STREET,   NANTZIANG 


FROM   MANY  PENS  323 

flags  and  embroidered  silk  streamers.  A  band  of 
Chinese  musicians  is  seated  inside  each  boat,  which  is 
paddled  up  and  down  the  canals,  whirling  and  twisting 
like  a  dragon. 

In  some  of  the  larger  cities,  there  are  costly  boats. 
It  is  claimed  that  the  people  in  Wusih  spend  one  thou- 
sand dollars  to  fit  out  one  boat.  In  some  places,  they 
have  many  boats,  and  they  race,  and  carry  on  imitation 
warfare.  They  go  so  fast  that  the  men  who  are 
paddling  seem  to  lose  their  senses,  and  work  them- 
selves up  into  a  frenzy,  so  that  the  boats  often 
collide,  and  sometimes  sink,  and  many  persons  are 
drowned.  For  this  reason,  the  dragon  boat  races  have 
been  prohibited  of  late  years  in  such  places  as 
Shanghai  and  Hongkong. 

During  the  time  of  the  1914  festival,  a  boat  loaded 
with  spectators  was  overturned  at  Nantziang,  and  two 
little  children  were  drowned.  The  water  was  not  very 
deep,  and  they  might  have  been  saved  if  any  one  had 
tried;  but  according  to  long  established  custom,  no  ef- 
fort is  made  to  save  any  who  may  fall  into  the  water 
on  this  day.  They  are  regarded  as  a  sacrifice  to  the 
dragon,  and  to  rescue  them  would  be  to  incur  his  dis- 
pleasure and  bring  worse  misfortune  upon  the  rescuers. 


Mokanshan 

F.  E.  Stakkoui) 

There  are  two  ways  of  reaching  Mokanshan.  from 
Shanghai.  One  way  is  to  go  in  a  house  boat  all  the 
way  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains.  This  requires  two 
days,  but  is  a  very  convenient  way  to  travel  when 
much  baggage  is  to  be  taken,  as  the  house  boat  can 


324 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


store  away  a  great  amount  of  luggage  and  provisions. 
The  other  way  is  to  make  the  first  part  of  the 
journey  by  rail.  One  taking  this  route,  and  leaving 
Shanghai  at  noon,  comes  by  evening  to  Hangchow,  the 
"City  of  Heaven,"  with  its  picturesque  surroundings 


A  STRING  OF  HOUSE  BOATS  ON   SOOCHOW  CREEK,  IN   SHANGHAI 
A  Party   of   Missionaries  Ready   to  Start  for  Mokanshan 


and  beautiful  "West  Lake."  A  common  proverb  says: 
"Above  is  heaven.  Below  are  Soochow  and  Hangchow." 
Another  says  that  to  be  happy,  one  should  be  born  in 
Soochow,  live  in  Hangchow,  and  die  in  Canton;  for  in 
the  first  are  the  handsomest  people,  in  the  second  the 
costliest  luxuries,  and  in  the  third  the  best  coffins. 

The  district  through  which  we  pass  is  one  of  China's 
greatest  silk-producing  centers;    and   for  miles   and 


FROM   MANY  PENS  325 

miles,  we  journey  through  groves  of  flourishing  mul- 
berry trees,  the  leaves  of  which  form  the  food  that 
sustains  the  silkworm  during  its  silk-producing  period. 
The  vivid  green  foliage  of  these  trees,  intersected 
by  hundreds  of  small  square  plots  of  rice,  which  is  a 
brilliant  yellow  color  when  first  sprouting,  with  an  oc- 
casional field  of  red  clover,  or  a  small  orchard  with 
pink  and  white  blossoms,  gives  a  kaleidoscopic  color 
effect  that  is  very  pleasant ;  while  the  native  houses  of 
mud  with  thatched  roofs  of  rice  straw,  the  ancient 
pagodas  and  temples,  the  innumerable  grave  mounds 
mossy  with  age,  and  everywhere  present  the  half-clad 
natives,  men,  women,  and  children,  all  working  in  the 
fields,  or  the  women  on  their  knees  washing  and 
pounding  their  clothes  on  the  smooth  stones  by  the 
side  of  the  canals,  and  the  men  plowing  their  rice  fields 
with  the  aid  of  a  crooked-stick  plow  and  the  water 
buffalo, —  all  combine  to  give  to  the  scene  a  charm 
which  makes  it  long  remembered. 

The  country  is  densely  populated,  many  walled  cities 
being  passed  en  route.  At  every  station  where  we 
stop,  great  crowds  come  down  to  the  fence  surround- 
ing the  station,  and  gaze  with  curiosity  on  the  "fire 
waifon,"  which  is  the  literal  translation  for  the  Chinese 
name  of  a  train. 

Arriving  at  Hangchow,  we  are  besieged  by  the 
owners  of  various  boats;  and  selecting  a  small  house 
boat,  we  transfer  our  baggage,  and  store  most  of  it 
under  the  floor,  thus  giving  ourselves  more  room  to 
move  about.  When  all  is  ready,  we  start  on  the  next 
stage  of  our  journey,  traveling  on  one  of  the  innumer- 
able canals  that  form  a  network  all  over  the  plain 
country  of  China. 


326 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


The  boat  is  propelled  by  a  scull,  which  also  acts  as 
a  rudder  in  the  hands  of  the  experienced  boatman. 
In  the  case  of  large  house  boats,  they  are  usually 
hitched  to  a  steam  launch,  or  pulled  along  with  a  tow- 
rope  by  coolies  walking  on  the  bank. 

On  either  bank  are  seen  the  familiar  chain  and  paddle 
pumps,  which  are  the  main  reliance  of  the  farmers 
for  irrigation  of  their  rice  fields.  Some  are  driven  by 
the  patient  buffalo,  blindfolded,  trudging  round  a  never 
ending  circle,  while  to  others  is  given  the  necessary 


A    PRIMITIVE   IRRIGATING   PLANT 


FROM   MANY  PENS  327 

impulse   by    men,    women,    or   children,    climbing    the 
spindles  arranged  about  the  driving-shaft. 

Alternating  with  the  pumps  are  huge  stand  dip- 
nets,  so  large  that  it  is  quite  a  task  for  one  man  to 
operate  the  bamboo  pole  which  lifts  them.  It  would 
seem  that  a  few  of  them  would  clean  up  all  the  fish  in 
the  canals. 

Occasionally  we  pass  a  small  boat  with  its  crew  of 
black  fishing  cormorants.  These  birds  are  about  the 
size  of  a  large  chicken,  and  they  stand  on  the  edge  of 
the  boat,  looking  very  wise,  with  their  attention  fixed 
on  the  water.  Every  little  while  one  will  dive,  and 
come  up  with  a  fish  in  its  mouth.  The  fish  is  promptly 
deposited  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat,  and  the  bird  is 
then  ready  for  another  dive. 

Some  of  the  most  interesting  sights  on  the  canals 
are  the  arched  bridges  under  which  we  pass.  These 
arches,  common  all  over  China,  circular  in  form,  and 
with  no  prominent  keystone,  are  in  many  cases  fine 
examples  of  the  stonemason's  skill.  Some  of  them 
have  stood  now  for  hundreds  of  years,  and  seem  to 
be  good  for  many  more. 

Traveling  all  night  in  the  house  boat,  early  in  the 
morning  we  reach  Sanjapoo,  the  end  of  the  canal; 
while  directly  before  us  is  Mokanshan,  towering  two 
thousand  feet  above  us,  the  houses  at  the  top  being 
plainly  visible,  but  appearing  as  tiny  white  stars  in 
the  reflection  of  the  morning  sun. 

Here  begins  the  real  climbing.  Our  baggage  is  all 
given  over  to  the  care  of  Chinese  coolies,  each  coolie 
taking  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred 
pounds,  which  he  fastens  on  both  ends  of  a  bamboo 
pole,  and  .swings  the  pole  over  his  .shoulder. 


328 


WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 


Then,  securing  sedan  chairs  for  ourselves,  we  be- 
gin the  climb.  The  chairs  are  very  light,  being  made 
of  willow  or  bamboo,  and  rest  on  two  bamboo  poles. 
The  poles  have  a  crossbar  at  each  end,  and  these  rest 
upon  the  shoulders  of  the  coolies,  two  coolies  being 


STONE  BRIDGE  OUTSIDE  THE  WEST  GATE,  KADING 

enough  for  a  person  weighing  a  hundred   and  fifty 
pounds.      Heavy   persons    often   have   three   or   four 

coolies. 

The  sensation  of  this  ride  is  both  exhilarating  and 
delightful.  At  every  step,  the  bamboo  poles  spring, 
and  we  go  literally  bouncing  up  the  hill.  At  times, 
the  path  is  very  steep  and  rugged,  and  the  coolies 
must  step  carefully  or  we  would  go  tumbling  down  on 


FROM   MANY  PENS  329 

the  rocks.  Eventually  we  are  landed  safe  at  our  des- 
tination. 

It  is  difficult  to  describe  the  delights  of  a  bamboo 
grove,  to  one  who  has  never  experienced  them.  The 
trees  are  from  two  to  six  inches  in  diameter,  growing 
straight  up  for  thirty-five  or  forty  feet  before  branch- 
ing. They  are  in  such  close  proximity  that  the 
branches  form  a  heavy  shade  overhead,  making  an  ef- 
fectual protection  from  the  sun,  yet  leaving  many  small 
openings  through  which  the  light  streams,  giving  a 
sparkling  effect  underneath. 

One  of  the  great  luxuries  of  the  mountain  is  the  cold 
water  that  flows  from  numerous  springs.  In  one 
canon,  the  water  rushes  out  in  such  volume  as  to  create 
a  pretty  fall.  The  outlook  from  the  mountain  is  beauti- 
ful, commanding  a  view  of  the  surrounding  country  for 
miles  in  every  direction. 

The  whole  top  of  the  mountain  is  covered  with 
houses,  most  of  them  owned  by  missionaries,  repre- 
senting various  denominations,  who  spend  their  sum- 
mers here.  All  together  there  are  between  two  and 
three  hundred  houses. 

Mokanshan!  How  good  the  word  sounds!  To  all 
missionaries  in  Shanghai  and  vicinity,  it  means  a 
haven  of  rest.  It  means  pure,  fresh  air,  and  cool  moun- 
tain breezes,  in  contrast  to  the  disease-laden  atmos- 
phere and  terrible  heat  and  suffocating  humidity  of 
the  plains  during  the  months  of  July  and  Augu.st. 
To  behold  the  beautiful  mountain  scenery  and  delight- 
fully graceful  bamboo  trees,  after  having  been  shut 
up  for  a  year  to  the  repulsive  sights  and  sounds  and 
nauseating  smells  incident  to  a  Chinese  city,  is  a  feast 


330  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

for  the  eyes.  This  is  a  place  where  tense  nerves  re- 
lax, and  tired  bodies  find  rest  and  recuperation,  an 
atmosphere  that  encourages  quiet  communion  with 
God  and  nature. 


Little  Five's  Image 

C.    p.   LiLI.IE 

Recently  I  spent  the  Sabbath  at  a  village  in  the 
northeastern  part  of  Shantung,  China.  The  season 
was  dry,  the  crops  were  suffering  severely,  and  the 
people  were  complaining  bitterly.  "We  have  been 
praying  for  rain  daily,"  they  said,  "but  it  does  not 
come,  and  our  crops  are  drying  up.  Why  does  not  Tien 
Has  Ye  [lord  of  heaven]  send  rain?" 

The  occasion  brought  to  my  mind  a  simple  little 
story  told  by  my  language  teacher.  He  says  the  tale 
is  true,  and  the  incident  happened  near  his  home. 

About  fifteen  years  ago,  in  a  little  country  village  in 
Shantung,  lived  a  family  by  the  nanie  of  Djang.  In 
fact,  almost  every  one  that  lived  there  was  named 
Djang,  so  the  place  was  called  Djang  Village. 

This  particular  Mr.  Djang  and  his  family  kept  a 
little  shop  where  paper  houses,  horses,  cows,  and  serv- 
ants were  made,  to  be  burned  at  funerals.  To  make 
these  wonderful  creations  of  paper  and  bamboo  takes 
long,  weary  hours;  but  they  "go  up  in  smoke"  in  a 
very  short  time.  The  Chinese  think  that  by  being 
burned,  these  articles  are  wafted  into  the  spirit  world, 
there  to  minister  to  the  comfort  of  the  departed. 

No  village  of  any  size  in  China  would  be  complete 
without  its  shop  where  these  paper  things  are  made. 


FROM   MANY  PENS  331 

Sometimes  the  proprietor  of  the  shop  sells  coffins 
also.  I  met  a  Chinese  a  few  weeks  ago,  who  was 
doctor,  undertaker,  and  dealer  in  funeral  trappings, 
all  at  the  same  time.  Rather  a  suspicious  combination 
of  affairs,  it  seemed  to  me! 

To  return  to  the  subject:  Mr.  Djang  had  five  sons. 
I  do  not  know  how  many  daughters,  because  I  did  not 
ask  especially,  and  in  China,  when  you  ask  for  the 
number  of  children  in  the  family,  girls  are  not  in- 
cluded in  the  answer  unless  your  inquiry  is  quite 
specific. 

One  of  Mr,  Djang's  sons  is  the  hero  of  this  story. 
He  was  called  Little  Five,  after  the  way  boys  are  men- 
tioned in  this  country  —  according  to  the  order  of  their 
coming.  I  suppose  his  father  and  mother  called  him 
Little  Dog,  or  something  like  that;  for  he  was  only  a 
small  boy,  and  had  not  received  a  real  name  yet. 

One  day.  Little  Five  was  out  in  search  of  some  way 
to  amuse  himself,  and  came  to  the  almost  dried-up  bed 
of  a  pond.  He  saw  great  possibilities  in  the  moist  clay 
that  was  there,  and  an  idea  occurred  to  him.  He  would 
make  an  image  out  of  the  clay,  and  call  it  the  Lung 
Wang,  or  dragon  king. 

So  he  set  to  work  to  fashion  the  image.  Being  a 
clever  boy,  he  did  his  work  well.  After  the  image  had 
stood  in  the  hot  sun  for  .some  time  and  become  quite 
hard,  he  pasted  yellow  paper  on  its  forehead  and 
cheeks,  in  imitation  of  the  gilded  faces  of  the  idol.s  in 
the  temples.     The  Lung  Wang  was  complete. 

The  Lung  Wang,  or  dragon  king  of  the  Chinese,  is 
the  god  of  rain.  In  nearly  every  village  in  dry  Shan- 
tung, there  is  a  temple  dedicated  to  this  rain  god.    If 


332  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

the  season  is  dry,  the  people  always  appeal  to  Lung 
Wang  to  help  them. 

Sometimes,  in  case  of  extreme  drought,  they  form  a 
procession  to  escort  the  image  through  the  villages. 
As  the  escorting  party,  heralded  by  the  beating  of 
drums  and  the  clanging  of  cymbals,  enters  a  village 
street,  all  the  people  uncover  their  heads.  And  as  the 
image  passes  by  each  house,  some  of  the  inmates  rush 
out  vi'ith  water  and  dash  it  upon  the  image,  or  more 
frequently  on  the  men  who  bear  it.  Other  ceremonies 
are  connected  with  the  occasion. 

Little  Five  had  observed  such  a  demonstration  some 
previous  year.  He  knew  that  the  crops  were  suffering. 
He  himself  had  made  a  rain  god,  and  would  take  in 
hand  the  matter  of  making  special  appeal  for  rain. 
He  gathered  his  comrades  together,  and  they  escorted 
the  little  clay  image  through  the  village  streets,  as 
nearly  as  they  could  after  the  fashion  of  their  elders. 
It  was  fun. 

The  village  people  paid  little  attention  to  the  childish 
prank.  They  were  probably  too  busy  moaning  about 
their  parched  fields.  No  one  honored  the  image  that 
Little  Five  had  made,  by  throwing  water  upon  it.  I 
think  Little  Five  took  care  that  his  comrades  didn't 
throw  water ;  for  his  image  was  made  of  clay,  and  not 
of  wood,  like  the  regular  rain  god  of  the  village. 

That  night,  it  rained.  It  was  a  fine  rain,  and  came 
just  in  time  to  save  the  crops.  In  the  midst  of  general 
rejoicing,  some  one  suggested  that  Little  Five's  image, 
which  had  been  borne  through  the  streets,  was  the 
cause  of  the  rainfall.  The  idea,  once  broached,  imme- 
diately found  favor.    One  and  all  declared  that  Little 


FROM   MANY  PENS  333 

Five's  image  was  possessed  of  special  favor.  It  was 
reverently  placed  in  a  shed  prepared  for  it,  and  a 
thanksgiving  service  was  held  in  its  presence.  It  was 
worshiped. 

Following  this  occasion,  the  people  began  to  make 
up  a  subscription  fund;  and  after  the  crops  were  har- 
vested, it  was  expended  in  a  theatrical  performance  ex- 
pressive of  their  gratitude  to  the  dragon  king.  In  the 
meantime,  how  about  Little  Five's  image? — Why,  he 
had  long  ago  come  and  demanded  it,  and  had  taken  it 
home  with  him  to  play  with.  No  one  hindered  him, 
for  it  was  his.  They  had  already  honored  the  little 
idol,  and  what  more  did  it  matter?  Did  they  not  al- 
ready have  a  rain  god  in  the  village  shrine?  and  was 
not  one  rain  god  enough?  If  the  fields  needed  rain 
again,  they  could  go  to  him,  as  they  had  done  so 
many  times  before. 

Here  the  story  closes,  unless  this  narrative,  as  I 
trust  it  will,  may  excite  pity  and  love  in  some  heart 
for  these  poor  people  who  are  living  in  such  dense  dark- 
ne.ss,  and  whose  grasp  on  divine  things  is  so  frail. 


The  Homes  of  China 

Bykon  a.  Mkkkkk 

Above  many  of  the  doorways  in  China  may  be  seen 
four  Chinese  characters,  which,  translated,  read,  "Five 
blessings  descend  upon  this  hou.se."  The  five  blessings 
which  the  Chinese  people  want  are  long  life,  riches, 
soundness  of  body  and  serenity  of  mind,  love  of  virtue, 
and  an  end  crowning  the  life. 


334  WITH  OUR  MISSIONARIES  IN  CHINA 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  nearly  every  one  of  these  bless- 
ings is  sadly  lacking  in  most  households.  The  Chinese 
people  do  not  know  that  the  gospel  of  Jesus  Christ  is 
the  source  of  every  blessing.  Only  the  Saviour  can 
supply  their  needs.  Honest  hearts  are  waiting  to  hear 
the  story  of  Jesus'  love. 


FIVE    CHINESE    BLESSINGS 


APR  1  i  las'* 


UC  IRVINE  LIBRARY 


3  1970  00969  5534 


DATE  DUE 


AA    000  643  436    9 


